Refurbished Chainsaws Guide (7 Expert Tips for Firewood Prep)
Aha! It hit me like a rogue branch to the face – a perfectly functioning chainsaw, ready to roar back to life, doesn’t just appear. It’s the result of careful refurbishment, and often, the key to efficient firewood prep. I remember wrestling with a stubborn, sputtering chainsaw years ago, convinced I was destined to a winter of shivering misery. Little did I know, a few simple tweaks and a proper understanding of firewood preparation could have saved me a world of frustration.
This guide is born from that experience – from the countless hours I’ve spent in the woods, troubleshooting chainsaws, experimenting with different wood splitting techniques, and learning the hard way what works and what doesn’t. It’s a collection of expert tips, distilled into a practical guide to help you not only refurbish a chainsaw but also maximize its potential for efficient firewood preparation. Whether you’re a seasoned woodsman or a complete beginner, I promise you’ll find something valuable here.
- Refurbishing Chainsaws: Guiding users through the process of restoring and maintaining used chainsaws to optimal working condition.
- Efficient Firewood Preparation: Equipping users with the knowledge and techniques to safely and effectively prepare firewood using a refurbished chainsaw.
This guide aims to bridge the gap between these two aspects, empowering users to save money by utilizing refurbished equipment while maximizing their productivity in firewood preparation.
Why Refurbish a Chainsaw?
Let’s face it: new chainsaws can be expensive. A good quality professional-grade chainsaw can easily set you back several hundred dollars, even over a thousand. For many homeowners and small-scale firewood producers, this represents a significant investment. Refurbishing a used chainsaw offers a cost-effective alternative. You can often find used chainsaws for a fraction of the price of a new one, and with a little elbow grease and the right knowledge, you can restore them to near-new condition.
Beyond the cost savings, there’s a certain satisfaction in bringing a piece of machinery back to life. It’s a hands-on learning experience that can deepen your understanding of how chainsaws work and how to maintain them properly. Plus, you’re contributing to sustainability by extending the lifespan of existing equipment and reducing waste.
Key Concepts: Understanding Your Tools and Materials
Before diving into the refurbishment and firewood preparation process, let’s define some key terms and concepts:
- Chainsaw Bar: The metal guide that supports and directs the chainsaw chain. Different lengths are available, and the appropriate size depends on the diameter of the wood you’ll be cutting.
- Chainsaw Chain: The cutting element of the chainsaw, consisting of interconnected links with sharp cutting teeth. Regular sharpening is essential for optimal performance.
- Engine Displacement: The volume of the engine’s cylinders, measured in cubic centimeters (cc). Higher displacement generally indicates more power.
- Two-Stroke Engine: A type of internal combustion engine that requires a mixture of gasoline and oil for lubrication. Most chainsaws use two-stroke engines.
- Carburetor: The component that mixes air and fuel in the correct ratio for combustion.
- Spark Plug: The component that ignites the air-fuel mixture in the engine cylinder.
- Green Wood: Wood that has been freshly cut and still contains a high moisture content.
- Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry, reducing its moisture content. Seasoned wood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.
- BTU (British Thermal Unit): A unit of measurement for heat energy. Different types of wood have different BTU ratings.
- Face Cord: A stack of firewood that is 4 feet high, 8 feet long, and the length of the individual pieces (typically 16 inches).
- Full Cord: A stack of firewood that is 4 feet high, 8 feet long, and 4 feet wide. This is equivalent to three face cords of 16-inch wood.
7 Expert Tips for Chainsaw Refurbishment and Firewood Preparation
Here are my seven expert tips, honed from years of experience, for both refurbishing your chainsaw and using it effectively for firewood preparation:
Tip 1: Assess the Chainsaw’s Condition – The Diagnostic Dance
Before you even think about firing up a refurbished chainsaw, a thorough assessment is crucial. Don’t just assume it’s good to go because it looks okay from the outside. I’ve been burned by that assumption more than once!
- Visual Inspection: Start with a close visual inspection. Look for obvious damage, such as cracks in the housing, a bent bar, or a damaged chain. Check the air filter – a clogged air filter is a common cause of poor performance. Inspect the fuel lines for cracks or leaks.
- Compression Test: A compression test is a great indicator of the engine’s overall health. A healthy two-stroke engine should have a compression reading of at least 100 PSI (pounds per square inch). You’ll need a compression tester, which you can purchase at most auto parts stores or online. Remove the spark plug, screw in the compression tester, and pull the starter cord several times. Note the highest reading on the gauge. A low compression reading could indicate worn piston rings or a damaged cylinder.
- Spark Test: Check the spark plug for spark. Remove the spark plug, connect it to the spark plug wire, and hold the metal body of the plug against the engine block. Pull the starter cord. You should see a strong, blue spark jumping across the gap. If there’s no spark, or the spark is weak and yellow, the spark plug may be faulty, or there could be an issue with the ignition system.
- Fuel System Check: Examine the fuel tank for debris or contamination. Drain the old fuel and replace it with fresh fuel mixed with the correct ratio of two-stroke oil (typically 50:1). Check the fuel filter, which is usually located inside the fuel tank. A clogged fuel filter can restrict fuel flow and cause the engine to run poorly.
Case Study: I once bought a used chainsaw that looked almost brand new. The seller claimed it just needed a “little tune-up.” After getting it home, I performed a compression test and discovered the compression was only 80 PSI. This indicated significant engine wear. I ended up having to rebuild the engine, which cost more than I originally paid for the saw! This experience taught me the importance of a thorough assessment before making a purchase.
Tip 2: Carburetor Cleaning and Adjustment – The Art of Fuel and Air
The carburetor is the heart of the chainsaw’s fuel system. It’s responsible for mixing the correct ratio of air and fuel for combustion. Over time, carburetors can become clogged with dirt, varnish, and other deposits, leading to poor performance. Cleaning and adjusting the carburetor is often necessary to get a refurbished chainsaw running smoothly.
- Disassembly: Carefully disassemble the carburetor, taking note of the location of each part. It’s helpful to take pictures as you go so you can reassemble it correctly.
- Cleaning: Clean all the carburetor parts with carburetor cleaner. Pay particular attention to the jets, which are tiny openings that control fuel flow. Use a small wire or a carburetor cleaning tool to clear any blockages.
- Reassembly: Reassemble the carburetor, making sure all the parts are properly seated.
- Adjustment: Once the carburetor is reassembled, you’ll need to adjust the idle speed and the high-speed and low-speed fuel mixture screws. The exact procedure varies depending on the chainsaw model, but generally, you’ll want to start with the factory settings and then fine-tune the adjustments until the engine runs smoothly.
- Idle Speed: Adjust the idle speed screw until the engine idles smoothly without stalling.
- Low-Speed Mixture: Adjust the low-speed mixture screw for optimal throttle response.
- High-Speed Mixture: Adjust the high-speed mixture screw for maximum power at full throttle.
Personal Insight: I’ve found that using an ultrasonic cleaner is a fantastic way to thoroughly clean carburetor parts. It removes even the most stubborn deposits without damaging the delicate components. If you’re serious about chainsaw refurbishment, I highly recommend investing in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Tip 3: Chain Sharpening and Maintenance – Razor Sharp is the Only Way
A dull chain is not only inefficient; it’s also dangerous. It requires more effort to cut through wood, increasing the risk of kickback and other accidents. Regular chain sharpening is essential for safe and efficient firewood preparation.
- Filing: The most common method of chain sharpening is using a round file and a file guide. The file guide helps you maintain the correct angle and depth while filing each tooth.
- Grinding: A chainsaw chain grinder is a faster and more precise way to sharpen a chain. However, it requires more skill and experience to use properly.
- Chain Tension: Proper chain tension is crucial for both safety and performance. A loose chain can derail and cause serious injury. A chain that is too tight can overheat and damage the bar and chain. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
- Bar Maintenance: Regularly clean and lubricate the chainsaw bar. Check the bar rails for wear and damage. If the bar rails are worn, you can often restore them by using a bar rail dressing tool.
Measurement: The correct file size for sharpening a chainsaw chain depends on the chain pitch. Common chain pitches include 0.325 inch, 3/8 inch, and 0.404 inch. Use the following file sizes for each pitch:
- 0.325 inch pitch: 5/32 inch file
- 3/8 inch pitch: 5/32 inch or 7/32 inch file (depending on the chain type)
- 0.404 inch pitch: 7/32 inch file
Tip 4: Wood Selection and Preparation – Know Your Fuel
Different types of wood have different BTU ratings, meaning they produce different amounts of heat when burned. The moisture content of the wood also plays a crucial role in its burning efficiency.
- Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and ash, are denser and contain more energy than softwoods, such as pine, fir, and spruce. Hardwoods burn longer and produce more heat. Softwoods ignite more easily but burn faster.
- Seasoning: Green wood contains a high moisture content, typically around 50%. Burning green wood is inefficient and produces a lot of smoke. Seasoning wood involves allowing it to dry for several months, reducing its moisture content to around 20%. Seasoned wood burns cleaner, hotter, and more efficiently.
- Splitting: Splitting firewood increases its surface area, allowing it to dry faster and burn more easily. Split firewood also takes up less space than whole logs.
Data: Here’s a comparison of the BTU ratings of some common types of firewood:
Wood Type | BTU per Cord (approx.) |
---|---|
Oak | 27.8 million |
Maple | 24.0 million |
Ash | 24.0 million |
Birch | 20.0 million |
Pine | 16.8 million |
Fir | 16.0 million |
Tip 5: Felling Techniques – Safety First, Always
Felling trees is a dangerous task that should only be undertaken by experienced individuals who have received proper training. However, understanding the basic principles of felling is essential for anyone who prepares firewood.
- Planning: Before felling a tree, carefully assess the surroundings. Identify any hazards, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees. Determine the direction of fall.
- Notches: Cut a notch in the tree on the side you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
- Back Cut: Make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of uncut wood to control the direction of fall.
- Wedges: Use wedges to help guide the tree’s fall and prevent the saw from binding.
- Escape Route: Plan an escape route in case the tree falls in an unexpected direction.
Safety Tip: Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) when felling trees, including a hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
Tip 6: Splitting Techniques – Muscle vs. Machine
Splitting firewood can be done manually with an axe or maul, or with a powered log splitter. The best method depends on the size and type of wood you’re splitting, as well as your physical strength and endurance.
- Axe/Maul: Splitting wood with an axe or maul requires strength and technique. Choose a splitting axe or maul that is the right weight and length for your body size and strength. Use a chopping block to provide a stable surface for splitting.
- Log Splitter: A log splitter uses hydraulic power to split wood. Log splitters are available in various sizes and configurations, from small electric models to large gas-powered models. A log splitter can significantly increase your efficiency and reduce the physical strain of splitting firewood.
Example: I used to spend hours splitting firewood by hand with a maul. It was exhausting work, and I often ended up with blisters and sore muscles. After investing in a hydraulic log splitter, I was able to split a cord of wood in a fraction of the time, with much less effort.
Tip 7: Stacking and Drying – Patience is a Virtue
Proper stacking and drying are essential for seasoning firewood effectively. The goal is to allow air to circulate freely around the wood, promoting evaporation of moisture.
- Location: Choose a sunny, well-ventilated location for stacking your firewood. Avoid stacking wood directly on the ground, as this can trap moisture and promote rot. Use pallets or other supports to elevate the wood.
- Stacking Method: Stack the wood in loose rows, leaving gaps between the pieces to allow for air circulation. Crisscrossing the ends of the rows can help to stabilize the stack.
- Covering: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect the wood from rain and snow. Leave the sides of the stack open to allow for ventilation.
- Drying Time: The amount of time it takes to season firewood depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Generally, hardwoods require at least six months to a year to season properly. Softwoods can season in as little as three months.
Original Insight: I’ve found that using a moisture meter is a great way to determine when firewood is properly seasoned. A moisture meter measures the moisture content of the wood. Firewood is considered seasoned when its moisture content is below 20%.
Tool Specifications for Chainsaw Refurbishment and Firewood Preparation
Here’s a list of essential tools and their specifications for chainsaw refurbishment and firewood preparation:
- Chainsaw: Choose a chainsaw with the appropriate engine displacement and bar length for the size of wood you’ll be cutting. For general firewood preparation, a chainsaw with a 40-50cc engine and a 16-18 inch bar is usually sufficient.
- Chainsaw Chain Sharpener (File or Grinder): A chainsaw chain sharpener is essential for maintaining a sharp chain. Choose a file or grinder that is compatible with your chainsaw chain.
- Compression Tester: A compression tester is used to measure the compression of the engine cylinder. Choose a compression tester that is compatible with your chainsaw’s spark plug thread size.
- Carburetor Cleaner: Carburetor cleaner is used to clean carburetor parts. Choose a carburetor cleaner that is safe for use on plastic and rubber components.
- Fuel Can: A fuel can is used to store and transport gasoline. Choose a fuel can that is approved for gasoline storage and that has a child-resistant cap.
- Two-Stroke Oil: Two-stroke oil is mixed with gasoline to lubricate the engine. Use the correct ratio of two-stroke oil to gasoline as specified by the chainsaw manufacturer.
- Chainsaw Bar Oil: Chainsaw bar oil is used to lubricate the chainsaw bar and chain. Use a high-quality bar oil that is designed for chainsaws.
- Axe or Maul: An axe or maul is used to split firewood. Choose an axe or maul that is the right weight and length for your body size and strength.
- Log Splitter (Optional): A log splitter is used to split firewood using hydraulic power. Choose a log splitter that is the right size and power for the size of wood you’ll be splitting.
- Moisture Meter: A moisture meter is used to measure the moisture content of firewood. Choose a moisture meter that is designed for wood and that has a wide measuring range.
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE when operating a chainsaw or preparing firewood, including a hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
Cost Analysis of Refurbishing vs. Buying New
Let’s consider a hypothetical scenario:
- New Chainsaw (45cc, 18″ bar): \$400 – \$600
- Used Chainsaw (Same Specs): \$100 – \$200
Refurbishment Costs:
- Carburetor Rebuild Kit: \$15 – \$30
- Spark Plug: \$5 – \$10
- Air Filter: \$5 – \$10
- Fuel Filter: \$3 – \$5
- Bar Oil & Two-Stroke Oil: \$20
- Chain Sharpening File/Grinder (if needed): \$20 – \$100
Total Refurbishment Cost: \$68 – \$175 (excluding the cost of the used chainsaw)
Potential Savings: In this scenario, refurbishing a used chainsaw could save you \$232 – \$425 compared to buying a new one.
Important Considerations:
- Find a Used Chainsaw: Look for used chainsaws at garage sales, flea markets, online marketplaces, or pawn shops. Be sure to thoroughly assess the chainsaw’s condition before making a purchase.
- Gather Your Tools and Supplies: Collect all the necessary tools and supplies for chainsaw refurbishment and firewood preparation.
- Start Refurbishing: Follow the steps outlined in this guide to refurbish your used chainsaw.
- Prepare Your Firewood: Select the appropriate type of wood, fell the trees (if necessary), split the wood, and stack it for seasoning.
- Enjoy the Warmth: Once your firewood is properly seasoned, you can enjoy the warmth and comfort of a crackling fire.
Conclusion
Refurbishing a chainsaw and preparing your own firewood can be a rewarding and cost-effective experience. By following the expert tips and techniques outlined in this guide, you can save money, learn new skills, and enjoy the satisfaction of providing your own heat. Remember to always prioritize safety and to take your time. With a little patience and effort, you can transform a neglected chainsaw into a valuable tool for many years to come. Happy chopping!