Reciprocating Saw Blades For Tree Trimming (5 Pro Tips)

Ever notice how some folks wrestle with tree trimming like they’re fighting a mythical beast? It doesn’t have to be that way! Using a reciprocating saw with the right blade is a game-changer. I’ve spent years felling trees, clearing brush, and prepping firewood, and I’ve learned a thing or two about making the job easier. Let me share my pro tips for using reciprocating saw blades for tree trimming – these will save you time, effort, and maybe even a few Band-Aids.

Reciprocating Saw Blades for Tree Trimming: 5 Pro Tips

Reciprocating saws, often called Sawzalls, are incredibly versatile tools, and when paired with the correct blade, they become a tree-trimming powerhouse. I’ll guide you through blade selection, technique, and safety, so you can tackle your next tree-trimming project with confidence.

1. Choosing the Right Blade: A Blade for Every Branch

The success of any tree-trimming job hinges on using the correct blade. It’s not a one-size-fits-all situation. I’ve seen folks struggle with the wrong blade, leading to frustration and inefficient cuts.

Understanding Blade Types

Wood-Cutting Blades: These blades are designed with aggressive teeth for fast, clean cuts through wood. Look for blades with a high tooth count (TPI – teeth per inch) for finer cuts and lower TPI for faster, rougher cuts.
Pruning Blades: Specifically designed for tree limbs and branches, pruning blades often have a curved profile and larger teeth for aggressive cutting through green wood. They are usually thicker and more durable.
Bi-Metal Blades: These blades combine high-speed steel teeth with a flexible alloy body. They are incredibly durable and resistant to bending or breaking, making them ideal for cutting through tough branches or limbs that may contain embedded debris.
Carbide-Tipped Blades: The toughest of the bunch, carbide-tipped blades can cut through just about anything, including wood, metal, and even some masonry. They are expensive but offer exceptional durability and long life, especially when dealing with dirty or abrasive wood.

Blade Length and TPI

Blade Length: Choose a blade long enough to cut through the thickest branch you anticipate trimming. A general rule of thumb is to select a blade that is at least two inches longer than the diameter of the branch. I personally prefer a 9-inch blade for most general trimming tasks, as it provides a good balance of maneuverability and cutting capacity. For thicker branches (6 inches or more), I’ll opt for a 12-inch blade.
TPI (Teeth Per Inch): TPI affects the speed and smoothness of the cut.
- Low TPI (3-6 TPI): Aggressive, fast cuts for thick branches. Ideal for demolition work where speed is more important than precision.
- Medium TPI (6-10 TPI): Good balance of speed and smoothness. Suitable for general-purpose tree trimming.
- High TPI (10-18 TPI): Smooth, clean cuts for smaller branches and detail work.

Blade Material Matters

High-Speed Steel (HSS): Good for general-purpose wood cutting but can dull quickly when used on hardwoods or abrasive materials.
Bi-Metal: A combination of HSS and a more flexible alloy, offering excellent durability and resistance to breakage. My go-to choice for most tree-trimming tasks.
Carbide-Tipped: Extremely durable and long-lasting, ideal for cutting through tough, abrasive materials like roots, dirty wood, or even metal.

My Go-To Blades

Through trial and error (and a few broken blades!), I’ve settled on a few favorites:

Milwaukee The Ax Pruning Blade: This is my go-to for general pruning. The aggressive tooth design makes quick work of branches up to 6 inches in diameter.
Diablo Demo Demon Carbide: When I know I’ll be dealing with dirty wood or branches with embedded debris, this is the blade I reach for. The carbide teeth hold up incredibly well.
LENOX Demolition CT Carbide: Another great carbide option, especially for demolition work or cutting through nail-embedded wood.

Case Study: Blade Selection for Oak Trees

I once had a job trimming several mature oak trees. Oak is notoriously hard and dense, which quickly dulls standard HSS blades. I started with a bi-metal blade, but it struggled to maintain its edge. Switching to a carbide-tipped blade made a world of difference. The cuts were cleaner, faster, and the blade lasted much longer.

Takeaway: Choosing the right blade is crucial. Consider the type of wood, the size of the branches, and the presence of any embedded debris. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different blades to find what works best for your specific needs.

2. Mastering the Cutting Technique: Smooth and Steady Wins the Race

Even with the best blade, poor technique can lead to frustration, wasted effort, and even injury. I’ve seen firsthand how improper cutting techniques can damage the tree, bind the blade, and create dangerous kickback.

Proper Stance and Grip

Stance: Maintain a stable, balanced stance with your feet shoulder-width apart. This provides a solid base and allows you to control the saw effectively.
Grip: Grip the saw firmly with both hands. Your dominant hand should be on the trigger grip, and your non-dominant hand should be on the front handle for added control and stability.

Starting the Cut

Pilot Cut: Begin with a pilot cut at a shallow angle to establish a groove. This helps prevent the blade from jumping or skipping across the surface of the branch.
Gradual Increase: Once the pilot cut is established, gradually increase the cutting angle. Apply gentle pressure and let the blade do the work. Avoid forcing the saw, as this can bind the blade and cause kickback.

Cutting Techniques for Different Branch Sizes

Small Branches (Less than 2 inches): These can usually be cut in a single pass. Use a smooth, controlled motion, and avoid jerking the saw.
Medium Branches (2-4 inches): These may require multiple passes. Start by cutting from the top, then work your way around the branch to ensure a clean, even cut.
Large Branches (4 inches or more): These require a more strategic approach to prevent the branch from pinching the blade.
- Undercut: Make an undercut on the underside of the branch, about one-third of the way through. This prevents the branch from tearing as it falls.
- Top Cut: Make a top cut a few inches further out from the undercut. As the branch begins to fall, the undercut will prevent it from tearing the bark.
- Final Cut: Once the branch has fallen, make a final cut close to the trunk to remove the remaining stub.

Preventing Blade Binding

Relief Cuts: For larger branches, consider making relief cuts on the sides of the branch to relieve pressure and prevent the blade from binding.
Wedges: If the blade does become bound, use wedges to open up the cut and free the blade.
Avoid Twisting: Never twist the saw while cutting, as this can damage the blade and cause kickback.

Maintaining a Straight Cut

Sight Along the Blade: Use the blade as a guide to maintain a straight cut. Keep your eye on the blade and adjust your cutting angle as needed.
Follow the Line: If you’re cutting along a marked line, follow the line closely.
Avoid Forcing: Avoid forcing the saw to cut faster. Let the blade do the work, and maintain a smooth, steady motion.

Story Time: The Case of the Bound Blade

I once had a particularly stubborn branch that kept binding my blade. I tried everything – relief cuts, wedges, even a bit of cursing (don’t judge!). Finally, I realized the problem was that I was trying to force the saw to cut too quickly. I slowed down, applied gentle pressure, and let the blade do the work. The branch finally gave way, and I learned a valuable lesson about patience and technique.

Takeaway: Mastering the cutting technique is essential for safe and efficient tree trimming. Use a stable stance, apply gentle pressure, and avoid forcing the saw. For larger branches, use undercuts and relief cuts to prevent binding.

3. Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Your Surroundings

Tree trimming can be dangerous if proper safety precautions aren’t followed. I’ve seen too many accidents caused by carelessness and a lack of awareness. Always prioritize safety to protect yourself and those around you.

Essential Safety Gear

Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Reciprocating saws can be loud, so wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing.
Gloves: Wear work gloves to protect your hands from cuts, scrapes, and splinters.
Long Sleeves and Pants: Wear long sleeves and pants to protect your skin from scratches and insect bites.
Steel-Toed Boots: Wear steel-toed boots to protect your feet from falling branches and other hazards.
Hard Hat: Wear a hard hat to protect your head from falling branches.

Assessing the Area

Overhead Hazards: Before you start cutting, inspect the area for overhead hazards, such as power lines, dead branches, or other obstructions.
Ground Hazards: Clear the area of any ground hazards, such as rocks, roots, or debris.
Bystanders: Ensure that bystanders are a safe distance away from the work area. Establish a safety zone and make sure everyone is aware of it.

Safe Cutting Practices

Keep a Firm Grip: Maintain a firm grip on the saw with both hands at all times.
Avoid Overreaching: Avoid overreaching or working in awkward positions.
Maintain Balance: Maintain your balance and avoid working on unstable surfaces.
Never Cut Above Your Head: Never cut above your head, as this can be dangerous and difficult to control.
Be Aware of Kickback: Be aware of the potential for kickback and take steps to prevent it.
Don’t Force the Saw: Don’t force the saw to cut faster. Let the blade do the work.
Take Breaks: Take regular breaks to avoid fatigue.

Working Around Power Lines

Never Work Near Power Lines: Never work near power lines unless you are a qualified professional.
Call the Utility Company: If you need to trim trees near power lines, call the utility company and ask them to de-energize the lines.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Maintain a safe distance of at least 10 feet from power lines.

First Aid Kit

Keep a First Aid Kit Handy: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit nearby in case of injury.
Know Basic First Aid: Know basic first aid procedures, such as how to stop bleeding, treat burns, and splint fractures.

Personal Story: A Close Call

I once witnessed a near-fatal accident while working on a tree-trimming project. A worker was cutting a large branch without wearing a hard hat. The branch unexpectedly broke and fell, striking him on the head. He was lucky to escape with a concussion, but it could have been much worse. This incident reinforced the importance of wearing proper safety gear at all times.

Takeaway: Safety is paramount when trimming trees. Wear appropriate safety gear, assess the area for hazards, and follow safe cutting practices. Never work near power lines unless you are a qualified professional.

4. Blade Maintenance: Keeping Your Blade Sharp and Ready

A dull blade is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and injury. Regular blade maintenance is essential for optimal performance and safety.

Cleaning Your Blades

Remove Debris: After each use, clean your blades to remove any debris, such as sap, sawdust, or dirt.
Use a Wire Brush: Use a wire brush to remove stubborn debris.
Solvent: Use a solvent, such as mineral spirits or turpentine, to dissolve sap and resin.
Dry Thoroughly: Dry the blade thoroughly after cleaning to prevent rust.

Sharpening Your Blades

When to Sharpen: Sharpen your blades when they become dull or when you notice a decrease in cutting performance.
Hand Filing: You can sharpen your blades using a hand file. Use a file designed for sharpening saw blades, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Power Sharpener: For faster and more precise sharpening, use a power sharpener.
Professional Sharpening: If you’re not comfortable sharpening your blades yourself, take them to a professional sharpening service.

Storing Your Blades

Dry Storage: Store your blades in a dry place to prevent rust.
Blade Sheath: Use a blade sheath or cover to protect the blade edges and prevent accidental cuts.
Separate Storage: Store your blades separately from other tools to prevent damage.

Recognizing a Dull Blade

Slow Cutting: A dull blade will cut more slowly and require more force.
Rough Cuts: Dull blades produce rough, uneven cuts.
Burning: Dull blades can cause the wood to burn or smoke.
Excessive Vibration: Dull blades can cause excessive vibration in the saw.

Blade Lubrication

Lubricate Regularly: Lubricate your blades regularly to reduce friction and prevent overheating.
Use a Cutting Oil: Use a cutting oil specifically designed for saw blades.
Apply Sparingly: Apply the oil sparingly to the blade before each use.

Real-World Example: The Importance of Sharpening

I once neglected to sharpen my pruning blade for an extended period. I was trimming a large hedge, and the blade was struggling to cut through the branches. I was forcing the saw, and the cuts were ragged and uneven. Finally, the blade bound up completely and snapped. I learned my lesson – regular blade maintenance is essential!

Takeaway: Keep your blades clean, sharp, and properly lubricated. Regular maintenance will extend the life of your blades, improve cutting performance, and enhance safety.

5. Advanced Techniques: Making the Most of Your Reciprocating Saw

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can explore some advanced techniques to further enhance your tree-trimming skills.

Plunge Cutting

What it is: Plunge cutting involves inserting the blade directly into the wood without starting from an edge.
How to do it: Tilt the saw slightly forward and rest the front of the shoe on the wood. Start the saw and slowly lower the blade into the wood, using the shoe as a pivot point.
Uses: Plunge cutting is useful for making internal cuts or for cutting branches that are difficult to reach from the edge.

Flush Cutting

What it is: Flush cutting involves cutting a branch flush with the trunk or another surface.
How to do it: Use a flexible blade that can bend slightly. Position the blade against the surface and make a slow, controlled cut, keeping the blade flush with the surface.
Uses: Flush cutting is used to remove branches cleanly and neatly.

Cutting at Awkward Angles

Adjustable Shoe: Some reciprocating saws have an adjustable shoe that can be tilted to allow for cutting at different angles.
Flexible Blade: Use a flexible blade that can bend to conform to the angle of the cut.
Practice: Practice cutting at different angles on scrap wood before attempting to cut on a tree.

Using Extension Poles

Extended Reach: Extension poles can be attached to reciprocating saws to increase their reach.
Safety: Use extension poles with caution, as they can make the saw more difficult to control.
Professional Use: Extension poles are commonly used by professional arborists for trimming tall trees.

Case Study: The Art of Flush Cutting

I once had a client who was very particular about the appearance of his trees. He wanted all the branches to be cut perfectly flush with the trunk. This required a lot of careful flush cutting. I used a flexible blade and took my time, making sure to keep the blade flush with the trunk. The client was thrilled with the results.

Takeaway: Advanced techniques can help you make the most of your reciprocating saw and achieve professional-looking results. Practice these techniques on scrap wood before attempting to use them on trees.

By following these five pro tips, you’ll be well on your way to mastering the art of tree trimming with a reciprocating saw. Remember to choose the right blade, master the cutting technique, prioritize safety, maintain your blades, and explore advanced techniques. With practice and patience, you’ll be able to tackle any tree-trimming project with confidence. Now, go forth and trim those trees like a pro!