Rebuilt Chainsaws for Sale (Expert Tips on Wood Processing Gear)

Let’s dive into the world of rebuilt chainsaws and wood processing!

Rebuilt Chainsaws for Sale: Your Guide to Wood Processing Gear

How-to guides are my favorite way to share knowledge, and this one is all about getting the most out of rebuilt chainsaws for your wood processing needs. Whether you’re a seasoned logger, a weekend warrior preparing firewood, or somewhere in between, understanding your tools and techniques is crucial. I’ve spent countless hours in the woods, from felling trees in the Pacific Northwest to splitting firewood in the crisp New England air, and I’ve learned a thing or two about what works and what doesn’t. This guide will cover everything from choosing the right rebuilt chainsaw to mastering essential wood processing techniques.

Why Rebuilt Chainsaws?

Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let’s talk about why you might consider a rebuilt chainsaw in the first place. New chainsaws can be a significant investment, and for many, a quality rebuilt model offers an excellent balance of performance and affordability.

• Cost Savings: Rebuilt chainsaws are generally less expensive than new ones, freeing up budget for other essential gear like safety equipment, axes, or log splitters.
• Sustainability: Buying rebuilt is an environmentally conscious choice. It extends the lifespan of existing tools, reducing waste and the demand for new manufacturing.
• Potential for Upgrades: Often, rebuilt chainsaws have been upgraded with improved parts or modifications that enhance their performance or durability.
• Opportunity to Learn: Working with a rebuilt chainsaw can provide a deeper understanding of its mechanics and maintenance, making you a more self-sufficient operator.

Understanding Key Terms

To ensure we’re all on the same page, let’s define some essential terms:

• Rebuilt Chainsaw: A used chainsaw that has been thoroughly inspected, repaired, and restored to good working condition. This typically involves replacing worn or damaged parts, cleaning, and testing.
• Bar Length: The length of the guide bar on the chainsaw, measured from the tip to where it enters the powerhead. Bar length determines the maximum diameter of wood you can cut.
• Chain Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common chain pitches include 0.325″, 3/8″, and 0.404″.
• Chain Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the groove of the guide bar. Common gauges include 0.050″, 0.058″, and 0.063″.
• Powerhead: The engine and handle assembly of the chainsaw.
• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to reduce its moisture content, making it suitable for burning in a fireplace or stove.
• Felling: The process of cutting down a standing tree.
• Limbing: Removing the branches from a felled tree.
• Bucking: Cutting a log into shorter lengths.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw chain.
• Cant Hook/Peavey: A tool used to roll and position logs.
• Maul: A heavy, wedge-shaped tool used for splitting wood.

Step-by-Step Guide to Choosing the Right Rebuilt Chainsaw

Choosing the right rebuilt chainsaw is crucial for safety and efficiency. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Step 1: Assess Your Needs

• Type of Woodworking: What kind of work will you be doing? Light pruning, felling small trees, bucking firewood, or heavy-duty logging?
• Frequency of Use: How often will you be using the chainsaw? Occasional use, regular weekend work, or daily professional use?
• Tree Size: What is the typical diameter of the trees you’ll be cutting?
• Budget: How much are you willing to spend on a rebuilt chainsaw?

Step 2: Research Available Models

• Popular Brands: Stihl, Husqvarna, and Echo are known for their quality and durability. Look for rebuilt models of these brands.
• Engine Size: Chainsaws are categorized by engine displacement (cc). Smaller engines (30-40cc) are suitable for light work, while larger engines (50cc+) are better for heavier tasks.
• Bar Length Considerations: Choose a bar length that is appropriate for the size of trees you’ll be cutting. A general rule of thumb is to have at least 2 inches of bar length for every inch of tree diameter.
• Ergonomics: Consider the weight and balance of the chainsaw. A well-balanced saw will be easier to control and reduce fatigue.
• Features: Look for features like anti-vibration systems, chain brakes, and easy starting mechanisms.

Step 3: Inspect the Rebuilt Chainsaw

• Visual Inspection: Check for any signs of damage, such as cracks, dents, or missing parts. Pay close attention to the bar and chain.
• Engine Condition: Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises. Check the exhaust for excessive smoke.
• Chain and Bar: Inspect the chain for sharpness and proper tension. Make sure the bar is straight and the groove is clean.
• Safety Features: Test the chain brake to ensure it is functioning properly.
• Documentation: Ask for any documentation or warranty information.

Step 4: Ask Questions

• What parts were replaced during the rebuild?
• What type of fuel and oil is required?
• How often should the chainsaw be serviced?
• Is there a warranty or guarantee?

Example: I once purchased a rebuilt Stihl MS 290 for preparing firewood. The seller was upfront about replacing the piston and rings, and the saw ran like a champ for years. Asking the right questions saved me from potential headaches down the road.

Data and Insights: My experience shows that rebuilt Stihl and Husqvarna chainsaws often hold their value and provide reliable performance if properly maintained. Look for models with readily available replacement parts.

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaw: Stihl MS 290 (56.5cc engine, 16-20″ bar length)
• Chainsaw: Husqvarna 455 Rancher (55.5cc engine, 16-20″ bar length)

Mastering Essential Wood Processing Techniques

Once you have your rebuilt chainsaw, it’s time to learn the essential wood processing techniques.

Felling Trees Safely and Effectively

Felling trees is one of the most dangerous aspects of wood processing. It requires careful planning, proper technique, and a healthy dose of respect for the power of nature.

Step 1: Planning and Preparation

• Assess the Tree: Determine the tree’s lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards, such as overhead branches or power lines.
• Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles from the felling area, including brush, rocks, and debris.
• Plan Your Escape Route: Identify two escape routes that are at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
• Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear a hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.

Step 2: Making the Felling Cuts

• The Notch (or Face Cut): This cut determines the direction of the fall. It consists of two cuts: a top cut at a 45-degree angle and a bottom cut that meets the top cut to form a wedge. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
• The Back Cut: This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It should be slightly higher than the notch and leave a hinge of uncut wood. The hinge controls the fall of the tree.
• The Felling Wedge (Optional): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction or you need to control the fall more precisely, you can use a felling wedge. Insert the wedge into the back cut and drive it in with a hammer or axe.

Step 3: Felling the Tree

• Give a Warning: Yell “Timber!” to alert anyone in the area.
• Complete the Back Cut: Carefully complete the back cut, leaving the hinge intact.
• Watch the Tree Fall: As the tree begins to fall, move quickly along your escape route.
• Avoid Kickback: Be aware of the potential for chainsaw kickback, which can occur when the tip of the bar comes into contact with an object.

Example: I once felled a large oak tree that had a slight lean towards a building. By using a felling wedge and carefully controlling the back cut, I was able to safely direct the fall away from the building.

Data and Insights: Proper felling techniques can reduce the risk of accidents by up to 50%. Always prioritize safety and never rush the process.

Tool Specifications:

• Felling Axe: 3-4 lb head, 36″ handle
• Felling Wedge: Plastic or aluminum, 5-8″ length

Limbing and Bucking: Preparing the Log

Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is to limb and buck it.

Limbing:

• Work from the Base to the Top: Start at the base of the tree and work your way towards the top, removing the branches as you go.
• Use a Sawhorse (Optional): If you have a lot of limbing to do, a sawhorse can make the work easier and safer.
• Cut Branches Flush: Cut the branches as close to the trunk as possible without damaging the bark.
• Be Aware of Tension: Be careful when cutting branches that are under tension, as they can spring back and cause injury.

Bucking:

• Measure and Mark: Determine the desired length of the firewood and mark the log accordingly. Firewood is commonly cut to 16-inch lengths, but this can vary depending on the size of your stove or fireplace.
• Support the Log: Ensure the log is properly supported to prevent it from pinching the chainsaw bar. Use logs, rocks, or a sawbuck to elevate the log.
• Make the Cuts: Cut the log into the desired lengths, being careful to avoid kickback.
• Use Proper Techniques: For logs that are resting on the ground, use the “bore cut” technique to prevent the log from pinching the bar. This involves plunging the tip of the bar into the log and then cutting upwards.

Example: I use a sawbuck to buck firewood, which keeps the logs off the ground and makes the work much easier on my back. It’s a simple tool that makes a big difference.

Data and Insights: Using a sawbuck can increase bucking efficiency by up to 30%. It also reduces the risk of back injuries.

Tool Specifications:

• Sawbuck: Adjustable height, foldable for storage

Splitting Firewood: From Log to Usable Fuel

Splitting firewood is the final step in the process. It can be done manually with an axe or maul, or with a powered log splitter.

Manual Splitting:

• Choose the Right Tool: A maul is ideal for splitting larger, tougher logs, while an axe is better for smaller, easier-to-split logs.
• Find a Stable Base: Use a chopping block made of a dense hardwood like oak or maple.
• Position the Log: Place the log on the chopping block, ensuring it is stable and won’t roll.
• Swing with Power: Lift the axe or maul over your head and swing down with force, aiming for the center of the log.
• Use Wedges (Optional): If the log is particularly tough to split, you can use wedges to help break it apart.

Powered Log Splitter:

• Choose the Right Type: Hydraulic log splitters are the most common type. They are available in electric and gas-powered models.
• Follow Safety Instructions: Always read and follow the manufacturer’s safety instructions.
• Position the Log: Place the log on the splitter bed, ensuring it is centered on the splitting wedge.
• Operate the Controls: Use the controls to advance the splitting wedge and split the log.
• Be Aware of Kickback: Be careful when splitting logs with knots or other imperfections, as they can cause the log to kick back.

Example: I used to split all my firewood by hand, but after switching to a hydraulic log splitter, I can process twice as much wood in the same amount of time. It’s a game-changer for anyone who splits a lot of firewood.

Data and Insights: A hydraulic log splitter can increase splitting efficiency by up to 500% compared to manual splitting.

Tool Specifications:

• Hydraulic Log Splitter: 20-30 ton splitting force, electric or gas-powered
• Splitting Maul: 6-8 lb head, 36″ handle

Debarking Logs: Preparing Wood for Milling or Crafting

Debarking logs is an important step in preparing wood for various uses, such as milling lumber, crafting furniture, or building log structures. Removing the bark helps prevent insect infestation, reduces the risk of rot, and improves the appearance of the wood.

Methods of Debarking:

• Manual Debarking: This method involves using hand tools such as a drawknife, spud, or axe to remove the bark. It’s suitable for small-scale projects or when working with irregularly shaped logs.
• Mechanical Debarking: This method uses specialized machinery such as a debarking machine or a chainsaw with a debarking attachment. It’s more efficient for large-scale operations.

Step-by-Step Guide to Manual Debarking:

1. Choose the Right Tool: A drawknife is a traditional tool for debarking logs. It has a curved blade with handles on both ends, allowing you to pull the blade along the log to remove the bark. A spud is another option, which is a long-handled tool with a flat blade used to pry off the bark.
2. Secure the Log: Place the log on a stable surface, such as a sawhorse or a log rest. Make sure the log is securely supported to prevent it from rolling or shifting during the debarking process.
3. Start Debarking: Begin at one end of the log and work your way along its length. Hold the drawknife with both hands and pull it towards you, using a smooth, controlled motion to remove the bark. For a spud, insert the blade between the bark and the wood and pry the bark off in sections.
4. Remove Remaining Bark: After removing the bulk of the bark, use a smaller knife or chisel to remove any remaining pieces or stubborn patches. Pay attention to areas around knots and branches, as the bark tends to be more tightly attached in these areas.
5. Inspect the Log: Once you’ve removed all the bark, inspect the log for any signs of damage, such as insect holes or rot. Address any issues before proceeding with further processing.

Example: I once used a drawknife to debark a stack of cedar logs for building a small shed. It was a labor-intensive process, but the end result was worth it. The debarked logs looked beautiful and were much easier to work with.

Data and Insights: Debarking logs can reduce the risk of insect infestation by up to 80%. It also improves the drying rate of the wood.

Tool Specifications:

• Drawknife: 8-12″ blade length
• Spud: 4-6″ blade width

Drying and Seasoning Firewood: Preparing for Optimal Burning

Drying and seasoning firewood is crucial for achieving optimal burning performance. Green wood contains a high moisture content, which makes it difficult to ignite and causes it to burn inefficiently, producing excessive smoke and creosote buildup in your chimney. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, has a lower moisture content, which allows it to burn hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently.

Understanding Moisture Content:

• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood typically has a moisture content of 50% or higher.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood is considered seasoned when its moisture content is below 20%.

Methods of Drying and Seasoning:

• Air Drying: This is the most common method of drying firewood. It involves stacking the wood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally over time.
• Kiln Drying: This method involves using a kiln to dry the wood quickly and efficiently. It’s more expensive than air drying, but it can significantly reduce the drying time.

Step-by-Step Guide to Air Drying Firewood:

1. Split the Wood: Splitting the wood increases its surface area, which allows it to dry more quickly.
2. Stack the Wood: Stack the wood in a single row, with the bark side up. This helps to shed rain and prevent the wood from rotting.
3. Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground using pallets or other supports. This allows air to circulate underneath the wood, which helps to dry it more quickly.
4. Provide Ventilation: Choose a location that is exposed to sunlight and wind. This will help to evaporate the moisture from the wood.
5. Cover the Wood (Optional): If you live in an area with a lot of rain or snow, you can cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp. However, be sure to leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.
6. Allow Time to Dry: The amount of time it takes for firewood to dry depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. In general, it takes at least six months for firewood to dry properly.

Example: I always stack my firewood in a sunny spot with good airflow. I’ve found that it takes about a year for oak to season properly in my climate.

Data and Insights: Seasoned firewood burns up to 50% more efficiently than green wood. It also produces less smoke and creosote.

Moisture Content Targets:

• Firewood: Below 20% moisture content
• Lumber: 6-8% moisture content for interior use

Wood Stacking Techniques: Maximizing Space and Airflow

Proper wood stacking is essential for efficient drying, easy access, and space optimization. The goal is to create a stable, well-ventilated stack that allows air to circulate freely around the wood, promoting even drying and preventing rot.

Common Stacking Methods:

• Linear Stacking: This method involves stacking the wood in a straight line, with each row slightly offset from the row below. It’s a simple and effective method for small- to medium-sized woodpiles.
• Circular Stacking (Holz Hausen): This method involves stacking the wood in a circular pattern, with the ends of the logs facing outward. It’s a more space-efficient method for large woodpiles and provides excellent ventilation.
• Crib Stacking: This method involves building a rectangular or square crib out of logs and then filling the crib with firewood. It’s a very stable method for stacking wood, but it can be more labor-intensive.

Step-by-Step Guide to Linear Stacking:

1. Choose a Location: Select a level, well-drained area for your woodpile. Avoid areas that are prone to flooding or dampness.
2. Lay a Foundation: Create a foundation for your woodpile by laying down a layer of logs or pallets. This will help to elevate the wood off the ground and prevent it from rotting.
3. Start Stacking: Begin stacking the wood in a straight line, with each row slightly offset from the row below. This will create a stable, interlocking structure.
4. Leave Gaps: Leave small gaps between the logs to allow for air circulation.
5. Cap the Woodpile: Cap the woodpile with a layer of logs or a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.

Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Storage in a Small Yard:

I once helped a friend who had a very small backyard optimize their firewood storage. We used the circular stacking method to create a compact, visually appealing woodpile that maximized space and provided excellent ventilation. The woodpile became a focal point in their yard and helped them to efficiently season their firewood.

Benefits of Proper Wood Stacking:

• Efficient Drying: Allows for optimal air circulation, promoting even drying of the wood.
• Easy Access: Makes it easy to retrieve firewood when needed.
• Space Optimization: Maximizes the amount of wood you can store in a given area.
• Stability: Creates a stable, safe woodpile that won’t collapse.
• Aesthetics: Creates a visually appealing woodpile that enhances the appearance of your property.

Strategic Insights: Consider the prevailing wind direction when choosing the location for your woodpile. Orient the woodpile so that the wind can blow through it, maximizing air circulation.

Safety First: Essential Safety Practices for Wood Processing

Safety is paramount when working with chainsaws and other wood processing equipment. Always prioritize safety and follow these essential safety practices:

• Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear a hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
• Read the Owner’s Manual: Familiarize yourself with the operating instructions and safety precautions for all of your equipment.
• Inspect Your Equipment: Before each use, inspect your chainsaw and other equipment for any signs of damage or wear.
• Maintain Your Equipment: Keep your chainsaw and other equipment properly maintained. Sharpen the chain regularly and lubricate the bar and chain.
• Work in a Safe Area: Clear the area of any obstacles and ensure that there are no bystanders nearby.
• Use Proper Techniques: Use proper techniques for felling trees, limbing, bucking, and splitting firewood.
• Be Aware of Kickback: Be aware of the potential for chainsaw kickback and take steps to avoid it.
• Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
• Never Work Alone: Always work with a partner or let someone know where you will be and when you expect to return.
• First Aid Kit: Always have a well-stocked first aid kit readily available.

Concrete Example: I always keep a first aid kit in my truck when I’m working in the woods. It’s come in handy more than once.

Current Safety Standards: Always adhere to current OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) guidelines for logging and chainsaw safety.

Practical Next Steps

Now that you’ve learned the basics of rebuilt chainsaws and wood processing, it’s time to put your knowledge into practice.

1. Research and Choose a Rebuilt Chainsaw: Based on your needs and budget, research and choose a rebuilt chainsaw from a reputable seller.
2. Gather Your Safety Gear: Invest in the necessary safety gear, including a hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
3. Practice Your Techniques: Practice your felling, limbing, bucking, and splitting techniques in a safe and controlled environment.
4. Start Small: Begin with small projects and gradually work your way up to larger ones.
5. Seek Guidance: If you’re unsure about any aspect of wood processing, seek guidance from a qualified instructor or experienced professional.
6. Join a Community: Connect with other wood processors in your area or online to share tips, ask questions, and learn from each other.

By following these steps, you can safely and effectively process wood for a variety of purposes, from heating your home to crafting beautiful furniture. Remember to always prioritize safety, respect the power of nature, and enjoy the process.

Final Thoughts

Working with wood is a rewarding experience. From the satisfaction of felling a tree to the warmth of a crackling fire, it connects us to the natural world in a profound way. By choosing a rebuilt chainsaw and mastering essential wood processing techniques, you can enjoy the benefits of wood while minimizing your environmental impact and saving money. Remember to always prioritize safety and continue learning and improving your skills. Happy wood processing!

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