Proper Tree Pruning Before And After (5 Expert Arborist Techniques)

One of the most common mistakes I see, especially among newer tree owners, is approaching pruning with a “haircut” mentality. They simply trim back the ends of branches, resulting in a dense, unnatural look and often, a weaker, less healthy tree. Proper pruning isn’t about aesthetics alone; it’s about understanding the tree’s growth habits, promoting its health, and ensuring its long-term structural integrity. In this article, I’ll share five expert arborist techniques that will transform the way you approach tree pruning, both before and after significant events like storms or major growth spurts. These techniques are based on years of experience, observation, and a deep understanding of how trees respond to different pruning methods.

Proper Tree Pruning: Before and After (5 Expert Arborist Techniques)

Pruning is more than just lopping off branches. It’s a skilled art and science vital for the health, safety, and longevity of your trees. Think of it as preventative medicine and structural engineering rolled into one. Whether you’re preparing a young tree for a long life or rehabilitating an older tree after storm damage, the right pruning techniques can make all the difference. I’ve seen firsthand how proper pruning can save trees that seemed destined for removal and how neglect can turn a beautiful specimen into a hazardous liability.

1. Understanding Tree Biology: The Foundation of Pruning

Before you even pick up a pruning saw, you need to understand the basics of tree biology. It’s like understanding the blueprint before you start building a house.

Wood Anatomy and Properties

The Vascular System: Trees have a vascular system, much like our own circulatory system. The xylem transports water and nutrients from the roots to the leaves, while the phloem transports sugars produced by photosynthesis from the leaves to the rest of the tree. When pruning, you’re impacting this system, so it’s crucial to make clean cuts that allow the tree to efficiently compartmentalize the wound.
Compartmentalization of Decay in Trees (CODIT): This is a tree’s natural defense mechanism against decay. When a branch is pruned, the tree forms a chemical boundary around the wound to prevent the spread of decay. The effectiveness of CODIT depends on the tree species, its health, and the quality of the pruning cut. A ragged cut invites decay, while a clean cut promotes rapid compartmentalization.
Hardwood vs. Softwood: Understanding the differences between hardwoods and softwoods is also crucial. Hardwoods (deciduous trees like oak and maple) generally have a denser wood structure and slower growth rate than softwoods (coniferous trees like pine and fir). Hardwoods often require more precise pruning to maintain their shape, while softwoods may be more tolerant of aggressive pruning.

Branch Collar and Branch Bark Ridge

These are critical areas to understand when pruning. The branch collar is the swollen area at the base of the branch where it attaches to the trunk. The branch bark ridge is the raised ridge of bark on the upper side of the branch union. Never cut into the branch collar or the branch bark ridge. Cutting flush with the trunk damages the tree’s ability to compartmentalize the wound, increasing the risk of decay and disease. Instead, prune just outside the branch collar, leaving a small stub.

Apical Dominance

Trees exhibit apical dominance, meaning the terminal bud (the bud at the tip of the main stem) suppresses the growth of lateral buds (buds along the sides of the stem). Pruning the terminal bud removes this suppression, encouraging the growth of lateral branches. This is a key principle in shaping young trees and promoting branching.

2. Essential Pruning Tools and Their Proper Use

Having the right tools and knowing how to use them safely and effectively is paramount. Using dull or inappropriate tools can damage the tree and increase the risk of injury.

Hand Pruners

These are ideal for small branches (up to about ¾ inch in diameter). There are two main types:

Bypass Pruners: These have two blades that pass each other like scissors, making clean, precise cuts. I prefer bypass pruners for delicate pruning work.
Anvil Pruners: These have a single blade that presses against a flat anvil. They’re better for tougher branches, but they can crush the wood if not used carefully.

Loppers

Loppers are essentially long-handled pruners, allowing you to reach higher branches and cut thicker branches (up to about 2 inches in diameter). Look for loppers with comfortable grips and a smooth cutting action.

Pruning Saws

For branches larger than 2 inches in diameter, you’ll need a pruning saw. There are several types:

Hand Saws: These are good for general pruning tasks. Look for a saw with a curved blade and sharp teeth that cut on the pull stroke.
Pole Saws: These have a saw blade attached to a long pole, allowing you to reach high branches without a ladder. Be extremely careful when using a pole saw, as they can be unwieldy.
Chainsaws: Chainsaws are for larger branches and tree removal. I only recommend using a chainsaw if you’re experienced and have the proper safety gear.

Tool Maintenance Best Practices

Sharpening: Keep your pruning tools sharp. Dull tools require more force, which can lead to fatigue and injury. Use a sharpening stone or file to sharpen the blades regularly.
Cleaning: Clean your pruning tools after each use to prevent the spread of disease. Use a disinfectant solution like rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water).
Lubrication: Lubricate your pruning tools regularly to keep them working smoothly. Use a light oil or spray lubricant.
Storage: Store your pruning tools in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion.

3. Pruning Techniques: The Five Expert Methods

Now, let’s get into the five expert pruning techniques that will transform your pruning skills.

1. Crown Thinning

Crown thinning involves selectively removing branches throughout the crown of the tree to increase light penetration and air circulation. This helps to improve the tree’s overall health and reduce the risk of disease.

How to do it: Identify crossing, rubbing, or dead branches. Also, remove branches that are growing inward towards the center of the tree. Make sure to maintain the tree’s natural shape and avoid removing too much foliage (no more than 25% of the crown in a single year).
Benefits: Improved light penetration, increased air circulation, reduced risk of disease, and enhanced aesthetic appeal.
When to do it: Late winter or early spring, before the tree begins to leaf out.

2. Crown Raising

Crown raising involves removing lower branches to increase clearance beneath the tree. This is often done to provide clearance for sidewalks, driveways, or buildings.

How to do it: Remove lower branches gradually over several years to avoid stressing the tree. Make sure to maintain a balanced crown and avoid removing too many branches on one side of the tree.
Benefits: Increased clearance, improved visibility, and enhanced aesthetic appeal.
When to do it: Late winter or early spring.

3. Crown Reduction

Crown reduction involves reducing the overall size of the tree’s crown. This is often done to reduce the tree’s height or spread, or to improve its structural stability. However, it should be used as a last resort, as it can stress the tree.

How to do it: Prune back branches to lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the branch being removed. This helps to maintain the tree’s natural shape and promote healthy regrowth. Avoid topping the tree (cutting off the top of the tree between lateral branches), as this can lead to a flush of weak, upright growth.
Benefits: Reduced size, improved structural stability, and enhanced aesthetic appeal (when done correctly).
When to do it: Late winter or early spring.

4. Structural Pruning

Structural pruning is a technique used to train young trees to develop a strong, well-balanced structure. This involves selecting a dominant leader (the main stem of the tree) and removing or subordinating competing leaders. It also involves removing crossing, rubbing, or poorly attached branches.

How to do it: Select a dominant leader and prune back competing leaders to encourage its growth. Remove crossing, rubbing, or poorly attached branches. Space branches evenly around the trunk to create a balanced crown.
Benefits: Stronger structure, improved stability, and reduced risk of future problems.
When to do it: Throughout the tree’s early years.

5. Restoration Pruning

Restoration pruning is used to rehabilitate trees that have been neglected or damaged. This involves removing dead, diseased, or broken branches, as well as correcting structural defects.

How to do it: Remove dead, diseased, or broken branches. Correct structural defects by pruning back branches to lateral branches. Gradually restore the tree’s natural shape and balance.
Benefits: Improved health, increased safety, and enhanced aesthetic appeal.
When to do it: Late winter or early spring.

4. Pruning Before and After Specific Events

Pruning needs often change depending on what a tree has gone through. Whether it’s preparing for winter or recovering from a storm, here’s how to adapt your approach.

Pruning Before Winter

Purpose: To remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches that could be weakened by snow and ice. To thin the crown to reduce wind resistance.
Techniques: Crown thinning, removal of deadwood.
Considerations: Avoid heavy pruning in late fall, as this can stimulate new growth that will be vulnerable to frost damage.

Pruning After Storm Damage

Purpose: To remove broken or damaged branches that pose a safety hazard. To restore the tree’s structural integrity.
Techniques: Restoration pruning, crown reduction (if necessary).
Considerations: Assess the damage carefully before pruning. Prioritize removing branches that pose an immediate safety hazard. Consult with a certified arborist for complex damage.

Pruning Young Trees

Purpose: To establish a strong structure and prevent future problems.
Techniques: Structural pruning.
Considerations: Start pruning young trees early in their lives. Be patient and avoid removing too much foliage at once.

Pruning Mature Trees

Purpose: To maintain health, safety, and appearance.
Techniques: Crown thinning, crown raising, removal of deadwood.
Considerations: Avoid heavy pruning of mature trees, as this can stress them. Consult with a certified arborist for complex pruning tasks.

5. Safety Considerations and Best Practices

Safety should always be your top priority when pruning trees. Here are some essential safety considerations and best practices.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or goggles to protect your eyes from flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the noise of chainsaws or other power tools.
Gloves: Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Long Sleeves and Pants: Wear long sleeves and pants to protect your skin from scratches and insect bites.
Hard Hat: Wear a hard hat to protect your head from falling branches.
Steel-Toed Boots: Wear steel-toed boots to protect your feet from falling objects.

Safe Tool Handling

Read the Manual: Before using any pruning tool, read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
Inspect Tools: Inspect your pruning tools before each use to ensure they are in good working condition.
Use the Right Tool: Use the right tool for the job. Don’t try to cut a large branch with a small pruner.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Maintain a safe distance from power lines and other hazards.
Work in Good Weather: Avoid pruning in wet or windy conditions.
Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.

Ladder Safety

Choose the Right Ladder: Choose a ladder that is the right height for the job.
Set Up the Ladder Properly: Set up the ladder on a firm, level surface.
Maintain Three Points of Contact: Maintain three points of contact with the ladder at all times (two hands and one foot, or two feet and one hand).
Don’t Overreach: Don’t overreach while on the ladder. Move the ladder as needed.
Have Someone Spot You: Have someone spot you while you’re on the ladder.

Chainsaw Safety

Get Trained: Get trained in chainsaw safety before using a chainsaw.
Wear Proper PPE: Wear all required PPE, including a hard hat, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, long sleeves, pants, and steel-toed boots.
Inspect the Chainsaw: Inspect the chainsaw before each use to ensure it is in good working condition.
Start the Chainsaw Safely: Start the chainsaw on the ground, with the chain brake engaged.
Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback and other hazards.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Maintain a safe distance from other people while operating the chainsaw.

Working with a Professional

When to Call an Arborist: If you’re unsure about how to prune a tree, or if the tree is large or hazardous, consult with a certified arborist.
Finding a Qualified Arborist: Look for an arborist who is certified by the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA).
Get a Written Estimate: Get a written estimate before hiring an arborist.
Check References: Check references before hiring an arborist.

Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations

While pruning, you’ll inevitably end up with branches that can be turned into firewood. Seasoning firewood properly is crucial for efficient burning and reducing creosote buildup in your chimney.

Wood Moisture Content Dynamics

Freshly cut wood can have a moisture content of 50% or higher. For optimal burning, you want to reduce this to 20% or less. The drying process involves water evaporating from the wood cells.

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods generally take longer to season than softwoods due to their denser structure. Oak, for example, can take 12-24 months to season properly, while pine may only take 6-12 months.
Splitting: Splitting wood increases the surface area exposed to air, accelerating the drying process.
Stacking: Stacking wood in a way that allows for good air circulation is essential.

Seasoning Methods

Traditional Air Drying: This is the most common method. Stack the wood in a single row, off the ground, with gaps between the pieces. Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open for ventilation.
Kiln Drying: This is a faster method, but it requires specialized equipment. Kiln-dried firewood typically has a moisture content of 15-20%.

Safety Considerations

Stacking Stability: Stack firewood in a stable manner to prevent it from collapsing.
Pest Control: Be aware of insects and other pests that can infest firewood. Avoid storing firewood inside your home, as this can attract pests.
Creosote Buildup: Burning unseasoned firewood can lead to excessive creosote buildup in your chimney, which can increase the risk of chimney fires. Have your chimney inspected and cleaned regularly by a qualified professional.

Project Planning and Execution: A Case Study

Let’s consider a real-world example. I once worked on a project involving a large, mature oak tree that had suffered significant storm damage. Several large branches had been broken, and the tree was leaning precariously.

Assessment

The first step was to assess the damage and determine the best course of action. I carefully inspected the tree, noting the location and extent of the damage. I also considered the tree’s overall health and structural stability.

Planning

Based on my assessment, I developed a pruning plan that involved:

Removing the broken branches.
Reducing the crown to improve stability.
Installing a cable support system to provide additional support.

Execution

I carefully executed the pruning plan, using proper techniques and safety precautions. I removed the broken branches, making clean cuts just outside the branch collar. I reduced the crown, pruning back branches to lateral branches that were at least one-third the diameter of the branch being removed. I installed the cable support system, ensuring that it was properly anchored and tensioned.

Results

The project was a success. The tree was stabilized, and the risk of further damage was reduced. The tree also looked much better, and its overall health was improved.

The Arborist’s Perspective: Unique Insights

Over the years, I’ve learned a few unique insights about tree pruning that I’d like to share.

The Importance of Observation

Pay attention to how trees respond to pruning. Observe their growth habits, their healing process, and their overall health. This will help you to become a more skilled and effective pruner.

The Value of Patience

Pruning is not a race. Take your time and do it right. Avoid rushing, as this can lead to mistakes and injuries.

The Art of Subtlety

The best pruning is often invisible. The goal is to enhance the tree’s natural beauty and health without making it look like it has been pruned.

The Ethics of Pruning

Remember that trees are living organisms. Treat them with respect and care. Avoid unnecessary pruning, and always prioritize their health and well-being.

Industry Statistics and Data Points

According to the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), proper pruning can increase a tree’s lifespan by up to 50%. This highlights the long-term benefits of investing in proper tree care.
A study by the University of California found that trees that are structurally pruned when young are less likely to suffer storm damage as they mature. This emphasizes the importance of structural pruning in preventing future problems.
The US Forest Service estimates that improperly pruned trees cost homeowners and municipalities millions of dollars each year in repair and removal costs. This underscores the economic benefits of proper pruning.

Conclusion: Taking the Next Steps

Proper tree pruning is an essential skill for anyone who owns or cares for trees. By understanding tree biology, using the right tools, and applying the expert techniques I’ve shared in this article, you can promote the health, safety, and longevity of your trees. Remember to prioritize safety, and don’t hesitate to consult with a certified arborist for complex pruning tasks.

My final advice is to start small. Practice these techniques on smaller trees or shrubs before tackling larger, more valuable trees. The more you practice, the more confident and skilled you’ll become. And always remember, pruning is an ongoing process, not a one-time event. Regular pruning will keep your trees healthy, beautiful, and safe for years to come.