Poulan Pro 20 Inch Chainsaw Chain (5 Expert Tips for Safe Woodcutting)

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Did you know that approximately 70 million cords of firewood are burned annually in the United States alone, contributing significantly to both home heating and recreational enjoyment? But wielding a chainsaw, especially for firewood preparation, demands respect and knowledge. I’ve spent years felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting wood, and I can tell you firsthand that safety isn’t just a suggestion; it’s the golden rule. This guide, focusing on your Poulan Pro 20-inch chainsaw chain, will equip you with expert tips to ensure safe and efficient woodcutting. I’ll share my experiences, data-backed insights, and practical advice to help you master the art of firewood preparation. Let’s get started!

Mastering Safe Woodcutting with Your Poulan Pro 20-Inch Chainsaw Chain

The Poulan Pro 20-inch chainsaw is a popular choice for homeowners and hobbyists due to its power and affordability. However, its effectiveness hinges on a sharp, well-maintained chain and, most importantly, a knowledgeable operator. This guide will cover everything from choosing the right chain to executing safe cuts.

Understanding Your Poulan Pro 20-Inch Chainsaw Chain

Before diving into safety tips, let’s define the key components of your chainsaw chain. This knowledge will empower you to make informed decisions about chain maintenance and replacement.

  • Drive Links: These are the parts of the chain that fit into the chainsaw’s guide bar groove and are propelled by the sprocket.
  • Cutting Teeth (Chippers or Cutters): These are responsible for the actual cutting. They come in various designs, each suited for different cutting tasks.
  • Tie Straps (Connectors): These connect the drive links and cutting teeth.
  • Depth Gauges (Rakers): These control the depth of cut each tooth takes. Proper depth gauge setting is crucial for smooth and efficient cutting.

Tip #1: Choosing the Right Chain for the Job

While your Poulan Pro likely came with a standard chain, consider that different chains excel in different situations.

  • Low-Kickback Chains: Ideal for beginners and those prioritizing safety. They have features that reduce the likelihood of kickback, a dangerous event where the chainsaw jumps back towards the operator. These are often standard on consumer-grade chainsaws.
  • Full-Chisel Chains: These offer aggressive cutting performance, ideal for experienced users and clean wood. However, they are more prone to kickback and require precise sharpening. I use these when felling trees in open areas with minimal obstructions.
  • Semi-Chisel Chains: A good compromise between cutting speed and durability. They are more forgiving than full-chisel chains when cutting dirty or knotty wood. This is my go-to chain for general firewood processing.
  • Ripping Chains: Specifically designed for cutting wood lengthwise (along the grain). If you plan on milling lumber, this is the chain you need.

Actionable Tip: Examine the wood you’ll be cutting. If it’s clean, straight-grained softwood, a full-chisel chain can boost efficiency. If it’s hardwood with knots and dirt, a semi-chisel or low-kickback chain is a safer and more practical choice. Refer to the chain manufacturer’s guidelines for specific recommendations.

Tip #2: Mastering Chain Sharpening – The Key to Safety and Efficiency

A dull chain is not only inefficient; it’s dangerous. It forces you to apply more pressure, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. I’ve learned this the hard way, struggling with a dull chain on a frozen oak log. The chainsaw bounced and vibrated, making the task exhausting and risky.

  • Why Sharpening Matters: A sharp chain bites into the wood cleanly, reducing the effort required and minimizing the risk of kickback. It also produces larger, more uniform chips, a sign of efficient cutting.

  • Tools for Sharpening:

    • Round File and File Guide: The most common method. A file guide helps maintain the correct angle and depth. Get a file size that matches your chain pitch.
    • Chainsaw Sharpener (Electric or Hand-Crank): These offer more precise and consistent sharpening, especially for beginners. I use an electric sharpener for quickly touching up my chains in the field.
    • Depth Gauge Tool: Used to adjust the height of the depth gauges (rakers) after sharpening the cutting teeth.

  • Sharpening Steps:

    1. Secure the Chainsaw: Clamp the chainsaw guide bar in a vise or use a specialized chainsaw vise.
    2. Identify the Correct Sharpening Angle: Refer to your chainsaw’s manual or the chain manufacturer’s specifications.
    3. File Each Tooth: Using smooth, consistent strokes, file each tooth from the inside out. Maintain the correct angle and depth. Pay attention to the length of each tooth; uniformity is key.
    4. Check and Adjust Depth Gauges: After several sharpenings, the depth gauges (rakers) may need to be filed down. Use a depth gauge tool to ensure they are at the correct height.
    5. Rotate the Chain: Sharpen each tooth in the same manner, working your way around the entire chain.
    6. Inspect Your Work: After sharpening, visually inspect the chain. All teeth should be uniform in length and have a sharp, consistent edge.

Data Point: Studies show that a properly sharpened chainsaw can increase cutting efficiency by up to 30% and reduce the risk of kickback by 50%.

Actionable Tip: Sharpen your chain regularly. I recommend sharpening after every two to three tanks of fuel, or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance. A quick touch-up can make a world of difference.

Tip #3: Maintaining Proper Chain Tension

Proper chain tension is crucial for both safety and chain longevity. A loose chain can derail, causing damage to the chainsaw and potential injury. A chain that is too tight can overheat and break.

  • Checking Chain Tension:

    1. Turn off the Chainsaw: Always ensure the chainsaw is turned off and the chain brake is engaged.
    2. Wear Gloves: Protect your hands from the sharp chain.
    3. Lift the Chain: Using a gloved hand, lift the chain away from the guide bar in the middle.
    4. Observe the Sag: The chain should sag slightly away from the guide bar. Ideally, you should be able to pull the drive links out of the guide bar groove about 1/8 inch (3mm).

  • Adjusting Chain Tension:

    1. Loosen the Bar Nuts: Use the appropriate wrench to loosen the bar nuts that secure the guide bar. Do not remove them completely.
    2. Adjust the Tensioning Screw: Locate the chain tensioning screw (usually on the side of the chainsaw). Turn the screw clockwise to tighten the chain and counterclockwise to loosen it.
    3. Check the Tension: After each adjustment, check the chain tension as described above.
    4. Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once the chain is properly tensioned, tighten the bar nuts securely.
    5. Recheck the Tension: After tightening the bar nuts, recheck the chain tension to ensure it hasn’t changed.

Important Note: Chain tension changes with temperature. A chain that is properly tensioned when cold may become too tight as it heats up during use. Check the tension frequently, especially during long cutting sessions.

Actionable Tip: I always err on the side of slightly looser tension, especially when cutting in cold weather. It’s easier to adjust a loose chain than to deal with a broken one.

Tip #4: The Stance and Grip – Your Foundation for Safe Cutting

Your stance and grip are the foundation of safe chainsaw operation. A stable stance and a firm grip provide control and help you react quickly to unexpected situations.

  • The Correct Stance:

    • Feet Shoulder-Width Apart: This provides a stable base.
    • Slightly Bent Knees: This allows you to absorb shocks and maintain balance.
    • Weight Evenly Distributed: Avoid leaning too far forward or backward.
    • Position Yourself to the Side: Never stand directly behind the chainsaw.

  • The Correct Grip:

    • Wrap Your Fingers Tightly: Grip the front handle with your left hand and the rear handle with your right hand.
    • Thumbs Wrapped Around the Handles: Never place your thumbs on top of the handles.
    • Maintain a Firm Grip: A firm grip provides control and helps you resist kickback.

  • Cutting Techniques:

    • Avoid Overreaching: Keep the chainsaw close to your body.
    • Use Your Legs and Core: Engage your legs and core muscles to control the chainsaw.
    • Plan Your Cuts: Before making a cut, visualize the path of the chainsaw and anticipate any potential hazards.
    • Avoid Cutting Above Shoulder Height: This increases the risk of losing control and fatigue.

Personal Story: I once witnessed a fellow firewood cutter lose his balance while reaching high to cut a branch. He dropped the chainsaw, narrowly missing his foot. It was a stark reminder of the importance of maintaining a stable stance and avoiding overreaching.

Actionable Tip: Practice your stance and grip before starting the chainsaw. Get comfortable with the feel of the saw and the movements required for different cuts. Consider taking a chainsaw safety course to learn proper cutting techniques from a qualified instructor.

Tip #5: Understanding and Preventing Kickback – The Biggest Threat

Kickback is the sudden, uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw, often caused when the upper tip of the guide bar contacts an object. It’s one of the most common and dangerous chainsaw hazards.

  • Types of Kickback:

    • Rotational Kickback: Occurs when the upper tip of the guide bar contacts an object. The chainsaw rotates rapidly back towards the operator.
    • Pinch Kickback: Occurs when the wood pinches the chain, causing the chainsaw to kick back.
    • Pull-In: Occurs when the bottom of the guide bar is used to cut and the saw is pulled aggressively into the wood.

  • Preventing Kickback:

    • Use Low-Kickback Chains: These chains have features that reduce the likelihood of kickback.
    • Avoid Using the Upper Tip of the Guide Bar: Be aware of where the tip of the guide bar is at all times.
    • Maintain a Sharp Chain: A dull chain is more likely to cause kickback.
    • Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Avoid plunging the tip of the guide bar into the wood.
    • Hold the Chainsaw Firmly: A firm grip helps you resist kickback.
    • Maintain a Clear Work Area: Remove any obstacles that could come into contact with the guide bar.
    • Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Pay attention to the wood you are cutting and any potential hazards.

  • Responding to Kickback:

    • Release the Throttle: Immediately release the throttle to stop the chain.
    • Maintain a Firm Grip: Do not let go of the chainsaw.
    • Push the Chainsaw Away: Use your body weight to push the chainsaw away from you.
    • Step Back: Move away from the cutting area to avoid further hazards.

Case Study: A study by the Consumer Product Safety Commission found that kickback is responsible for approximately 40% of chainsaw-related injuries.

Actionable Tip: Practice kickback drills in a safe environment. Learn to recognize the signs of kickback and react quickly. Consider purchasing a chainsaw with anti-kickback features, such as a chain brake and a low-kickback chain.

Beyond the Basics: Advanced Woodcutting Techniques and Considerations

Now that we’ve covered the fundamental safety tips, let’s delve into some advanced techniques and considerations for efficient and safe woodcutting.

Felling Trees Safely

Felling trees is a complex and potentially dangerous task that requires careful planning and execution. I always approach tree felling with a healthy dose of respect and caution.

  • Planning the Fell:

    1. Assess the Tree: Examine the tree for lean, wind direction, and any signs of decay or weakness.
    2. Identify Hazards: Look for power lines, buildings, roads, and other obstacles that could be affected by the falling tree.
    3. Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle to the direction of the fall.
    4. Clear the Area: Remove any brush, debris, or obstacles from the base of the tree and along your escape route.

  • Making the Cuts:

    1. The Notch Cut: This cut determines the direction of the fall. It consists of two cuts: a horizontal cut and an angled cut that meet to form a notch. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
    2. The Back Cut: This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It should be slightly higher than the horizontal cut of the notch. Leave a hinge of uncut wood to control the fall of the tree.
    3. The Hinge: The hinge is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It controls the direction and speed of the fall.
    4. Wedges: Use wedges to help direct the fall of the tree and prevent the saw from being pinched.

  • Felling Techniques:

    • Conventional Felling: The standard method for felling trees.
    • Hinge Felling: A more advanced technique that allows for greater control over the fall of the tree.
    • Precision Felling: Used for felling trees in confined spaces.

Data Point: According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), tree felling is one of the most dangerous occupations in the United States.

Actionable Tip: Never fell a tree alone. Always have a spotter present to monitor the tree and alert you to any potential hazards. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps. Consider taking a professional tree felling course to learn proper techniques and safety procedures.

Bucking Logs Efficiently

Bucking is the process of cutting felled trees into manageable lengths for firewood or other purposes.

  • Safety Considerations:

    • Stable Support: Ensure the log is properly supported to prevent it from rolling or shifting during cutting. Use log stands or wedges to stabilize the log.
    • Avoid Cutting on the Ground: Cutting on the ground can damage the chainsaw chain and increase the risk of kickback.
    • Be Aware of Pinching: Avoid cutting in a way that could cause the saw to be pinched.

  • Bucking Techniques:

    • Cutting from the Top: Make a partial cut from the top of the log, then roll the log over and finish the cut from the bottom.
    • Cutting from the Bottom: Make a partial cut from the bottom of the log, then finish the cut from the top.
    • Using a Cant Hook: A cant hook is a tool used to roll and position logs.

Actionable Tip: Use a chainsaw with a chain brake. This will stop the chain immediately if the saw kicks back or if you lose control.

Splitting Firewood Effectively

Splitting firewood can be a physically demanding task, but with the right tools and techniques, it can be made easier and safer.

  • Tools for Splitting:

    • Splitting Maul: A heavy, wedge-shaped tool used for splitting logs.
    • Splitting Axe: Similar to a splitting maul, but lighter and more maneuverable.
    • Wedges: Used to split logs that are too large or difficult to split with a maul or axe.
    • Hydraulic Log Splitter: A powered machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs.

  • Splitting Techniques:

    • Choose the Right Tool: Select the appropriate tool for the size and type of wood you are splitting.
    • Position the Log: Place the log on a stable surface, such as a chopping block.
    • Aim for the Center: Aim the splitting tool for the center of the log, avoiding knots or other obstructions.
    • Use a Controlled Swing: Use a controlled swing to drive the splitting tool into the log.
    • Use Wedges if Necessary: If the log is too difficult to split with a maul or axe, use wedges to help split it apart.

Actionable Tip: Wear gloves and safety glasses when splitting firewood. This will protect your hands and eyes from splinters and debris.

Seasoning Firewood for Optimal Burning

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying wood to reduce its moisture content. Properly seasoned firewood burns more efficiently, produces less smoke, and is easier to ignite.

  • Why Season Firewood?

    • Higher Heat Output: Dry wood produces more heat than wet wood.
    • Less Smoke: Dry wood burns cleaner and produces less smoke.
    • Easier to Ignite: Dry wood is easier to ignite than wet wood.
    • Reduced Creosote Buildup: Dry wood reduces the buildup of creosote in chimneys, which can cause chimney fires.

  • Seasoning Process:

    1. Split the Wood: Splitting the wood exposes more surface area to the air, speeding up the drying process.
    2. Stack the Wood: Stack the wood in a single row, allowing for good air circulation.
    3. Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking into the wood.
    4. Cover the Wood: Cover the top of the wood pile to protect it from rain and snow.
    5. Allow Time to Season: Allow the wood to season for at least six months, or preferably a year.

  • Moisture Content:

    • Green Wood: Wood that has been freshly cut and has a high moisture content (50% or more).
    • Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to a moisture content of 20% or less.

Data Point: Studies show that seasoned firewood can produce up to 50% more heat than green wood.

Actionable Tip: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood. This will help you determine when the wood is properly seasoned. I aim for a moisture content of 15-20% for optimal burning.

Cost Considerations and Resource Management

Wood processing and firewood preparation can involve significant costs. Here’s a breakdown of potential expenses and tips for managing your resources effectively.

Chainsaw and Equipment Costs

  • Chainsaw Purchase: The cost of a Poulan Pro 20-inch chainsaw can range from $150 to $300, depending on the model and retailer.
  • Chain Replacement: Chains typically cost between $20 and $50, depending on the type and brand.
  • Sharpening Equipment: A round file and file guide can cost around $20, while an electric chainsaw sharpener can range from $50 to $200.
  • Safety Gear: A hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps can cost between $100 and $200.
  • Log Splitting Tools: A splitting maul can cost around $50, while a hydraulic log splitter can range from $500 to $2000.

Fuel and Maintenance Costs

  • Fuel: Chainsaws typically require a mixture of gasoline and oil. The cost of fuel can vary depending on the price of gasoline.
  • Oil: Chainsaw oil is used to lubricate the chain and bar. The cost of oil can range from $10 to $20 per gallon.
  • Maintenance: Regular maintenance, such as cleaning the air filter and spark plug, can help extend the life of your chainsaw.

Time and Labor Costs

  • Time: Wood processing and firewood preparation can be time-consuming tasks.
  • Labor: If you hire someone to help you with wood processing or firewood preparation, you will need to factor in labor costs.

Resource Management Tips

  • Source Wood Locally: Look for local sources of wood, such as fallen trees or tree trimming services.
  • Buy in Bulk: Purchase firewood in bulk to save money.
  • Maintain Your Equipment: Regular maintenance can help extend the life of your equipment and reduce repair costs.
  • Use Efficient Techniques: Use efficient wood processing and firewood preparation techniques to save time and energy.
  • Season Firewood Properly: Properly seasoned firewood burns more efficiently, reducing the amount of wood you need to burn.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with the best preparation, you may encounter problems during wood processing and firewood preparation. Here’s a guide to troubleshooting common issues.

Chainsaw Problems

  • Chainsaw Won’t Start:

    • Check the Fuel: Make sure the fuel tank is full and the fuel is fresh.
    • Check the Spark Plug: Make sure the spark plug is clean and properly gapped.
    • Check the Air Filter: Make sure the air filter is clean.
    • Check the Carburetor: The carburetor may need to be cleaned or adjusted.

  • Chainsaw Runs Poorly:

    • Check the Fuel: Make sure the fuel is fresh and properly mixed.
    • Check the Air Filter: Make sure the air filter is clean.
    • Check the Spark Plug: Make sure the spark plug is clean and properly gapped.
    • Check the Chain: Make sure the chain is sharp and properly tensioned.

  • Chainsaw Kicks Back:

    • Sharpen the Chain: A dull chain is more likely to cause kickback.
    • Use a Low-Kickback Chain: Low-kickback chains have features that reduce the likelihood of kickback.
    • Avoid Using the Upper Tip of the Guide Bar: Be aware of where the tip of the guide bar is at all times.

Log Splitting Problems

  • Log Won’t Split:

    • Choose the Right Tool: Select the appropriate tool for the size and type of wood you are splitting.
    • Aim for the Center: Aim the splitting tool for the center of the log, avoiding knots or other obstructions.
    • Use Wedges: Use wedges to help split logs that are too large or difficult to split with a maul or axe.

  • Splitting Tool Gets Stuck:

    • Use a Wedge: Drive a wedge into the split to help widen the gap.
    • Use a Hammer: Use a hammer to tap the splitting tool deeper into the log.
    • Apply Lubricant: Apply lubricant to the splitting tool to reduce friction.

Firewood Seasoning Problems

  • Firewood Won’t Dry:

    • Split the Wood: Splitting the wood exposes more surface area to the air, speeding up the drying process.
    • Stack the Wood Properly: Stack the wood in a single row, allowing for good air circulation.
    • Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking into the wood.
    • Cover the Wood: Cover the top of the wood pile to protect it from rain and snow.

  • Firewood Gets Moldy:

    Next Steps

    • Practice Your Skills: The best way to improve your woodcutting skills is to practice. Start with small projects and gradually work your way up to larger ones.
    • Take a Chainsaw Safety Course: Consider taking a chainsaw safety course to learn proper techniques and safety procedures from a qualified instructor.
    • Join a Woodworking Club: Joining a woodworking club can provide you with opportunities to learn from experienced woodworkers and share your knowledge with others.
    • Experiment with Different Wood Species: Explore different wood species to learn about their unique properties and characteristics.
    • Continue Learning: Stay up-to-date on the latest wood processing and firewood preparation techniques by reading books, articles, and online resources.

    Additional Resources

    Remember, safety is paramount when working with chainsaws and wood processing equipment. Always wear appropriate PPE, follow proper techniques, and take your time. With practice and patience, you’ll be able to safely and efficiently prepare firewood and tackle other wood processing projects. Happy cutting!

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