Poulan Chainsaw Coil Guide (5 Expert Tips for Smooth Ignition)

“Alright, alright, alright…” Let’s talk Poulan chainsaws. Remember Matthew McConaughey in Dazed and Confused, always cool, calm, and collected? Well, that’s what I want you to be when you’re wrestling with your Poulan’s ignition coil. A sputtering, refusing-to-start chainsaw is anything but cool. I’ve seen grown men throw wrenches and utter words that would make a sailor blush. But fear not! I’ve been tinkering with chainsaws, specifically Poulans, for over two decades, and I’m here to share my hard-won knowledge. Think of me as your personal chainsaw whisperer. I’m going to give you 5 expert tips to keep your Poulan chainsaw’s coil purring like a kitten (a very loud, wood-chewing kitten).

Poulan Chainsaw Coil Guide (5 Expert Tips for Smooth Ignition)

The ignition coil, that little unassuming component, is the heart of your chainsaw’s electrical system. If it’s not happy, your saw isn’t happy. These tips aren’t just theoretical fluff; they are born from years of hands-on experience, countless hours spent in the shop, and a healthy dose of trial and error. I’ve worked on everything from vintage Poulan models to the newer iterations, and these principles hold true across the board.

1. The Air Gap: A Gap Too Far (or Too Close)

This is the single most common culprit behind ignition coil woes. The air gap is the minuscule distance between the ignition coil and the flywheel magnets. Too wide, and the spark can’t jump the gap; too narrow, and the coil can physically strike the flywheel, leading to damage.

The Technical Stuff:

• Factory Specification: The recommended air gap for most Poulan chainsaws is between 0.010 and 0.014 inches (0.254 mm – 0.356 mm). Always consult your specific Poulan model’s service manual to confirm. This is non-negotiable.
• Why it Matters: A gap outside this range weakens the magnetic field and reduces spark intensity. Think of it like trying to jump a chasm – too far, and you’re falling; too close, and you’re tripping.
• My Experience: I once spent an entire afternoon troubleshooting a Poulan Wild Thing that refused to start. I checked fuel lines, cleaned the carburetor, and even replaced the spark plug. Finally, almost out of frustration, I re-examined the air gap. It was a whopping 0.025 inches! Correcting the gap to 0.012 inches instantly brought the saw back to life. I felt like a fool, but it was a valuable lesson.

The How-To:

1. Preparation: Disconnect the spark plug wire (safety first!). Remove the chainsaw’s top cover to expose the ignition coil and flywheel.
2. Loosening: Loosen the two mounting screws that secure the ignition coil. Do not remove them completely.
3. Gapping: This is where the magic happens. The easiest method is to use a business card or a dedicated air gap gauge.
   • Business Card Method: A standard business card is approximately 0.012 inches thick. Place the card between the coil and the flywheel magnets.
   • Air Gap Gauge: A proper gauge offers more precision. Insert the appropriate thickness gauge (0.010-0.014 inches) between the coil and flywheel.
4. Adjustment: Gently push the coil towards the flywheel until it makes contact with the business card or gauge.
5. Tightening: While holding the coil firmly in place against the card/gauge, carefully tighten the mounting screws. Ensure you tighten them evenly to prevent the coil from shifting during the process.
6. Verification: Remove the card or gauge. The coil should now be positioned with the correct air gap. Double-check by trying to re-insert the gauge. It should slide in with slight resistance.
7. Reassembly: Reconnect the spark plug wire and reassemble the chainsaw.

The Data:

Important Note: Over-tightening the mounting screws can strip the threads in the engine block. Use a torque wrench if you have one, and tighten to the manufacturer’s specified torque (usually around 5-7 ft-lbs). If you don’t have a torque wrench, tighten snugly, but don’t crank down on them.

2. The Ground Connection: Earth to Chainsaw, Come In!

A good ground connection is crucial for the ignition coil to function correctly. The coil needs a reliable electrical path to the engine block to complete the circuit and generate a strong spark. A corroded, loose, or broken ground connection can lead to weak or intermittent spark, making starting a nightmare.

The Technical Stuff:

• Ground Resistance: Ideally, the resistance between the ignition coil’s ground wire and the engine block should be as close to zero ohms as possible. A reading of more than 1 ohm indicates a poor connection.
• Corrosion’s Impact: Corrosion increases resistance, hindering the flow of electrons. Think of it like a clogged pipe – the water (electricity) can’t flow freely.
• My Experience: I once inherited a Poulan Pro that had been sitting in a shed for years. The engine was seized, the fuel lines were cracked, and the ground wire was completely encrusted in rust. After cleaning the rust with a wire brush and applying dielectric grease, the spark was significantly stronger. It still took some work to get it running, but a good ground connection was essential.

The How-To:

1. Location: Identify the ground wire connecting the ignition coil to the engine block. It’s usually a black wire attached to a screw or bolt.
2. Inspection: Visually inspect the wire and its connections for corrosion, rust, or damage. Look for frayed wires or loose terminals.
3. Cleaning:
   • Disconnect: Disconnect the ground wire from both the coil and the engine block.
   • Wire Brush: Use a wire brush or sandpaper to clean the terminals on both the wire and the engine block. Remove all traces of rust and corrosion.
   • Contact Cleaner: Apply electrical contact cleaner to the terminals to further remove any residue.
4. Reconnection: Reconnect the ground wire, ensuring a tight and secure connection.
5. Dielectric Grease: Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the terminals before tightening the screw or bolt. This will help prevent future corrosion.
6. Testing: Use a multimeter to test the resistance between the ground wire and the engine block. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting and connect one lead to the ground wire terminal and the other lead to a clean, unpainted part of the engine block. The reading should be as close to zero ohms as possible.

The Data:

Important Note: Dielectric grease is non-conductive and does not improve electrical conductivity. Its purpose is to prevent corrosion by sealing out moisture and contaminants.

3. The Spark Plug: The Unsung Hero

The spark plug is the final link in the ignition chain. A fouled, worn, or incorrectly gapped spark plug can prevent the chainsaw from starting or cause it to run poorly.

The Technical Stuff:

• Spark Plug Gap: The correct spark plug gap is crucial for optimal combustion. Too small, and the spark will be weak; too large, and the spark may not jump the gap at all.
• Heat Range: Spark plugs are designed with different heat ranges to suit different engine operating temperatures. Using the wrong heat range can lead to fouling or pre-ignition.
• My Experience: I once had a Poulan chainsaw that would start and run fine for about 10 minutes, then suddenly die. After much head-scratching, I discovered that the spark plug was overheating. It was the correct plug for the model, but it was simply worn out. Replacing it with a new plug of the same type solved the problem.

The How-To:

1. Identification: Consult your Poulan chainsaw’s owner’s manual to determine the correct spark plug type and gap specification.
2. Removal: Use a spark plug wrench to remove the spark plug from the cylinder head.
3. Inspection:
   • Electrode Condition: Examine the center electrode and ground electrode for wear, erosion, or carbon buildup.
   • Insulator Condition: Check the porcelain insulator for cracks, chips, or oil fouling.
   • Overall Condition: Look for signs of damage or overheating.
4. Cleaning (If Applicable): If the spark plug is only slightly fouled, you can try cleaning it with a wire brush or spark plug cleaner. However, if it’s heavily fouled or damaged, it’s best to replace it.
5. Gapping:
   • Spark Plug Gap Tool: Use a spark plug gap tool to measure and adjust the gap between the center electrode and the ground electrode.
   • Adjustment: Gently bend the ground electrode until the gap matches the specification in your owner’s manual.
6. Installation:
   • Anti-Seize Compound: Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads to prevent them from seizing in the cylinder head.
   • Tightening: Hand-tighten the spark plug until it’s snug, then use a spark plug wrench to tighten it an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Do not over-tighten.

The Data:

Important Note: Always use the spark plug type recommended by the manufacturer. Using the wrong plug can damage your engine. Over-tightening the spark plug can strip the threads in the cylinder head.

4. The Coil Itself: When It’s Just Plain Bad

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, the ignition coil itself is simply faulty. Coils can fail due to age, heat, vibration, or electrical surges.

The Technical Stuff:

• Primary and Secondary Windings: An ignition coil consists of two windings: a primary winding with a few hundred turns of wire and a secondary winding with thousands of turns. A break in either winding can prevent the coil from generating a spark.
• Insulation Breakdown: Over time, the insulation around the windings can break down, causing short circuits and reducing spark intensity.
• My Experience: I had a Poulan chainsaw that would start intermittently, and the spark was weak and orange instead of strong and blue. I checked everything else – fuel lines, carburetor, spark plug, air gap, ground connection – but nothing seemed to help. Finally, I decided to replace the ignition coil, and that solved the problem. The old coil had simply failed.

The How-To:

1. Testing with a Multimeter:
   • Resistance Test: Use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the primary and secondary windings. Consult your chainsaw’s service manual for the correct resistance values. If the resistance is outside the specified range, the coil is likely faulty.
   • Spark Test: Remove the spark plug and connect it to the spark plug wire. Hold the spark plug against the engine block and pull the starter rope. You should see a strong, blue spark jumping across the spark plug gap. If the spark is weak, orange, or non-existent, the coil may be faulty.
2. Replacement:
   • Disconnect: Disconnect the spark plug wire and the ground wire from the ignition coil.
   • Remove: Remove the mounting screws that secure the ignition coil to the engine block.
   • Install: Install the new ignition coil in the reverse order of removal. Ensure the air gap is correctly set.
   • Reconnect: Reconnect the spark plug wire and the ground wire.

The Data:

Important Note: When replacing the ignition coil, use a genuine Poulan replacement part or a high-quality aftermarket equivalent. Cheap, poorly made coils can fail quickly.

5. Fuel and Air: The Dynamic Duo

While not directly related to the ignition coil, a proper fuel-air mixture is essential for combustion. A lean mixture (too much air, not enough fuel) or a rich mixture (too much fuel, not enough air) can make starting difficult and cause the engine to run poorly.

The Technical Stuff:

• Air-Fuel Ratio: The ideal air-fuel ratio for a chainsaw engine is around 14.7:1 (by weight). This means that for every 14.7 pounds of air, there should be 1 pound of fuel.
• Carburetor Adjustment: The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture. It has two adjustment screws: a low-speed screw (L) for idle and low-speed operation, and a high-speed screw (H) for high-speed operation.
• My Experience: I had a Poulan chainsaw that was extremely difficult to start, especially when cold. Once it finally started, it would run rough and stall easily. I cleaned the carburetor, replaced the fuel lines, and checked the spark plug, but nothing seemed to help. Finally, I decided to adjust the carburetor screws. I leaned out the low-speed mixture slightly, and that made a huge difference. The chainsaw started much easier and ran much smoother.

The How-To:

1. Locate the Carburetor Screws: The carburetor screws are usually located on the side of the carburetor. Refer to your chainsaw’s owner’s manual for their exact location.
2. Initial Settings: Before making any adjustments, turn both screws clockwise until they are lightly seated. Then, back them out to the manufacturer’s recommended initial settings. These settings are usually listed in the owner’s manual. A common starting point is 1 1/2 turns out for both screws.
3. Starting the Engine: Start the chainsaw and let it warm up for a few minutes.
4. Idle Adjustment: Adjust the low-speed screw (L) until the engine idles smoothly without stalling. If the engine idles too fast, turn the screw clockwise to slow it down. If the engine stalls, turn the screw counter-clockwise to speed it up.
5. High-Speed Adjustment: With the engine running at full throttle, slowly adjust the high-speed screw (H) until the engine runs smoothly without bogging down or surging. Important: Do not run the engine at full throttle for extended periods while adjusting the high-speed screw, as this can damage the engine.
6. Fine-Tuning: Make small adjustments to both screws until the engine runs smoothly at all speeds. The goal is to achieve the best possible balance between power and fuel efficiency.

The Data:

Important Note: Carburetor adjustment can be tricky. If you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, it’s best to take your chainsaw to a qualified technician.

Bonus Tip: The Importance of Fresh Fuel

Old or stale fuel can cause a variety of problems, including hard starting, poor performance, and engine damage. Gasoline can degrade over time, especially when exposed to air and sunlight. Ethanol-blended fuels are particularly prone to absorbing moisture, which can lead to corrosion and fuel system problems.

The Recommendation:

• Use Fresh Fuel: Always use fresh, high-quality gasoline with an octane rating of at least 87.
• Fuel Stabilizer: Add a fuel stabilizer to your gasoline to help prevent it from degrading.
• Storage: Store gasoline in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dark place.
• Discard Old Fuel: Discard any gasoline that is more than 30 days old.

Data Point: Studies have shown that gasoline can lose up to 50% of its octane rating after just 3 months of storage.

By following these 5 expert tips (plus the bonus!), you’ll be well on your way to keeping your Poulan chainsaw’s ignition coil happy and your saw running smoothly for years to come. Remember, patience and attention to detail are key. Don’t be afraid to experiment, but always consult your owner’s manual and prioritize safety. Now go forth and conquer that woodpile!

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