Poulan Chainsaw Chain 18″ Upgrade (5 Pro Tips for Smooth Swaps)

As someone who’s spent years wrestling with logs, dodging splinters, and coaxing warmth from stubborn firewood, I know firsthand that the right tools can make all the difference. Here in the Pacific Northwest, where the damp air clings to everything and the towering Douglas firs seem to stretch to the heavens, having a reliable chainsaw is as essential as a good pair of boots. But a chainsaw is only as good as its chain, and an 18-inch Poulan chainsaw chain is a common choice for many homeowners and smaller operations. But what if you want to upgrade? What if you’re tired of the sluggish cuts and the constant sharpening? That’s where these pro tips come in.

Poulan Chainsaw Chain 18″ Upgrade: 5 Pro Tips for Smooth Swaps

This isn’t just about slapping on a new chain. It’s about understanding your saw, your wood, and how to get the most out of your equipment. It’s about turning a frustrating chore into a satisfying experience. So, let’s dive into the nitty-gritty and get that Poulan singing.

1. Know Your Chainsaw and Your Wood: The Foundation for Success

Before you even think about upgrading your chain, you need to understand your chainsaw and the type of wood you’re typically cutting. This isn’t just about knowing the model number; it’s about understanding your saw’s capabilities and limitations.

• Model Number and Specs: This is the starting point. Locate your Poulan chainsaw’s model number (usually on a sticker near the engine or on the bar). Once you have that, consult your owner’s manual or the Poulan website to find the recommended chain pitch, gauge, and drive link count for your specific model. Using the wrong chain can damage your saw’s sprocket, bar, and even the engine. I’ve seen it happen – a friend tried to force a chain that was slightly off, and within minutes, he’d stripped the sprocket. A costly mistake!

• Understanding Pitch, Gauge, and Drive Links:

  • Pitch: The distance between three rivets on the chain divided by two. Common pitches are 3/8″ and .325″.
  • Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove. Common gauges are .050″ and .058″.
  • Drive Links: The number of links that fit into the guide bar.

  Think of it like this: the pitch is the spacing of the teeth, the gauge is the thickness of the teeth, and the drive links are the feet that propel the chain around the bar.

• Wood Types and Their Impact: Are you primarily cutting softwoods like pine and fir, or hardwoods like oak and maple? Softwoods are generally easier to cut and require less aggressive chains. Hardwoods, on the other hand, demand a chain with more bite and durability. The hardness of wood is often measured using the Janka hardness scale. For example, Balsa wood has a Janka hardness of 22 lbf (100 N), while Brazilian Ebony boasts a hardness of 3,690 lbf (16,420 N). Knowing the Janka hardness of the wood you’re cutting helps you select the appropriate chain and cutting technique. I learned this the hard way when I tried to fell a seasoned oak with a chain designed for pine. It was like trying to cut butter with a spoon – slow, frustrating, and ultimately ineffective.

• My Personal Experience: I once spent a summer clearing a plot of land choked with a mix of alder (relatively soft) and maple (much harder). I quickly realized that the chain I was using, which was fine for the alder, was struggling with the maple. I switched to a chain with a more aggressive tooth profile and a harder cutter material, and the difference was night and day. This experience taught me the importance of matching the chain to the wood type.

2. Chain Types: Choosing the Right Bite

Now that you understand your saw and your wood, it’s time to explore the different types of 18-inch Poulan chainsaw chains available. This is where things get interesting, because the right chain can dramatically improve your cutting performance.

• Chain Styles:

  • Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered teeth that provide the fastest and most efficient cutting in clean wood. However, they dull quickly if they come into contact with dirt or debris. Full chisel chains are ideal for felling trees in controlled environments where the wood is clean.
  • Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded corners on the teeth, making them more durable and less prone to dulling than full chisel chains. They are a good all-around choice for cutting a variety of wood types, including those with some dirt or bark. Semi-chisel chains are a great choice for general firewood cutting and cleanup work.
  • Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): These chains have smaller, rounded teeth that reduce kickback and vibration. They are a good choice for beginners and those who are concerned about safety. Low-profile chains are often found on smaller, homeowner-grade chainsaws.
  • Skip Tooth: These chains have fewer teeth than standard chains, which reduces the amount of power required to cut. They are a good choice for cutting large diameter logs with smaller chainsaws. Skip tooth chains are less common but can be useful in specific situations.

• Chain Features:

  • Anti-Vibration: Some chains are designed with features that reduce vibration, making them more comfortable to use for extended periods.
  • Low-Kickback: These chains have features that reduce the risk of kickback, a dangerous situation where the chainsaw suddenly jumps back towards the operator.
  • Hardened Cutters: Chains with hardened cutters are more durable and stay sharp longer.

• Matching Chain Type to Your Needs:

  • For Maximum Speed (Clean Wood): Full Chisel
  • For Durability and Versatility: Semi-Chisel
  • For Safety and Ease of Use: Low-Profile
  • For Large Logs with a Smaller Saw: Skip Tooth

• Data Point: A study by Oregon Tool found that users who switched from a standard semi-chisel chain to a full chisel chain experienced a 15-20% increase in cutting speed when working with clean softwood. This highlights the importance of choosing the right chain for the job.

• My Personal Experience: I once helped a friend clear a heavily overgrown property. The wood was dirty, full of knots, and often buried in the soil. A full chisel chain would have been useless, dulling within minutes. We opted for a semi-chisel chain with hardened cutters, and it held up remarkably well, even when accidentally hitting dirt and rocks.

3. The Swap: A Step-by-Step Guide to a Smooth Installation

Okay, you’ve chosen your chain. Now it’s time to get your hands dirty. This is where precision and attention to detail are key. A poorly installed chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous.

• Safety First:

  • Always wear gloves: Chainsaw chains are sharp, and even a minor cut can be painful and easily infected.
  • Disconnect the spark plug: This prevents accidental starting of the chainsaw while you’re working on it.
  • Use a chainsaw wrench: This tool is specifically designed for loosening and tightening the bar nuts.

• Step-by-Step Installation:

  1. Loosen the bar nuts: Use the chainsaw wrench to loosen the bar nuts that hold the bar cover in place. Don’t remove them completely.
  2. Remove the bar cover: Carefully remove the bar cover, exposing the bar and chain.
  3. Remove the old chain: Lift the old chain off the bar and sprocket.
  4. Inspect the bar and sprocket: Check the bar for wear and damage, such as burrs or uneven wear. Inspect the sprocket for worn teeth. Replace the bar or sprocket if necessary. A worn bar or sprocket will prematurely wear out your new chain.
  5. Install the new chain: Place the new chain around the bar, making sure the cutting teeth are facing in the correct direction (they should point forward on the top of the bar). Ensure the drive links are properly seated in the bar groove.
  6. Position the bar: Place the bar back onto the chainsaw, making sure the tensioning pin (if your saw has one) is properly aligned with the hole in the bar.
  7. Adjust the chain tension: Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand. Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can overheat and break.
  8. Tighten the bar nuts: Tighten the bar nuts securely, but not excessively.
  9. Check the chain tension again: After tightening the bar nuts, check the chain tension again to make sure it is still correct.
  10. Start the chainsaw and test the chain: Start the chainsaw and let it idle for a few seconds. Check the chain for proper lubrication and tension. Make a few test cuts in a piece of wood to ensure the chain is cutting smoothly.

• Troubleshooting:

  • Chain won’t stay on the bar: The chain is likely too loose. Tighten the chain tensioning screw.
  • Chain is smoking: The chain is likely too tight or not properly lubricated. Loosen the chain tensioning screw and check the oiler.
  • Chain is cutting crooked: The bar may be worn or damaged. Inspect the bar and replace if necessary.

• My Personal Experience: I remember once installing a new chain on my saw and immediately noticing a burning smell. I quickly realized that I had overtightened the chain, causing excessive friction. I loosened the tension, and the problem disappeared. This taught me the importance of paying close attention to chain tension and lubrication.

4. Sharpening and Maintenance: Keeping Your Chain in Top Shape

A sharp chain is a safe chain. A dull chain requires more effort to cut, increases the risk of kickback, and puts unnecessary strain on your chainsaw. Regular sharpening and maintenance are essential for extending the life of your chain and ensuring safe and efficient cutting.

• Sharpening Techniques:

  • Hand Sharpening: This involves using a round file and a file guide to sharpen each tooth individually. It requires practice and patience but allows for precise sharpening. Hand sharpening is a good option for maintaining your chain in the field.
  • Electric Sharpeners: These sharpeners use a grinding wheel to quickly and easily sharpen the chain. They are a good option for those who want to sharpen their chain quickly and accurately. Electric sharpeners are a good investment for those who sharpen their chains frequently.
  • Professional Sharpening: You can also take your chain to a professional sharpening service. This is a good option if you don’t have the time or expertise to sharpen your chain yourself.

• Sharpening Frequency: How often you need to sharpen your chain depends on the type of wood you’re cutting and how often you use your chainsaw. As a general rule, you should sharpen your chain whenever it starts to feel dull or when it starts to produce sawdust instead of chips. A dull chain will also require you to apply more pressure to the saw, which can be tiring and dangerous.

• Maintenance Tips:

  • Keep the chain lubricated: Proper lubrication is essential for extending the life of your chain and bar. Use a high-quality chainsaw bar and chain oil.
  • Clean the chain and bar regularly: Remove sawdust and debris from the chain and bar after each use.
  • Check the chain tension regularly: Make sure the chain tension is correct before each use.
  • Store the chain properly: Store the chain in a cool, dry place to prevent rust and corrosion.

• Data Point: Studies have shown that a properly sharpened chain can reduce fuel consumption by up to 20% and increase cutting speed by up to 30%. This demonstrates the significant benefits of regular sharpening.

• My Personal Experience: I used to be lazy about sharpening my chains. I would wait until they were completely dull before even thinking about it. This resulted in slow, frustrating cutting and increased wear and tear on my saw. Once I started sharpening my chains regularly, I noticed a dramatic improvement in performance and a significant reduction in strain on my saw.

5. Safety Considerations: Protecting Yourself and Others

Chainsaws are powerful tools, and they can be dangerous if not used properly. Safety should always be your top priority when working with a chainsaw.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):

  • Chainsaw chaps: These provide crucial protection for your legs in the event of kickback.
  • Eye protection: Safety glasses or a face shield will protect your eyes from flying debris.
  • Hearing protection: Earplugs or earmuffs will protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
  • Gloves: Gloves will protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Steel-toed boots: Steel-toed boots will protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.
  • Helmet: A helmet provides head protection.

• Safe Cutting Practices:

  • Maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw: Use both hands and keep a firm grip on the chainsaw at all times.
  • Keep your feet firmly planted: Maintain a stable stance and avoid cutting above shoulder height.
  • Be aware of your surroundings: Make sure there are no people, animals, or obstacles in your cutting area.
  • Avoid cutting in wet or windy conditions: These conditions can increase the risk of accidents.
  • Never cut above your head: This is extremely dangerous and should be avoided at all costs.
  • Be aware of kickback: Kickback is a sudden and violent reaction that can occur when the chainsaw chain comes into contact with a solid object. Be prepared for kickback and know how to react to it.

• Kickback Prevention:

  • Use a low-kickback chain: These chains are designed to reduce the risk of kickback.
  • Maintain proper chain tension: A loose chain is more likely to kick back.
  • Avoid cutting with the tip of the bar: The tip of the bar is the most likely area to cause kickback.
  • Be aware of the wood’s condition: Wood that is under tension can spring back and cause kickback.

• Data Point: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause over 30,000 injuries each year in the United States. This highlights the importance of following safety precautions.

• My Personal Experience: I once witnessed a near-miss when a friend was cutting a small tree. The tree was under tension, and when he cut through it, the tree sprang back and kicked his chainsaw back towards him. Fortunately, he was wearing chainsaw chaps, which prevented a serious injury. This incident reinforced the importance of wearing appropriate PPE and being aware of the potential hazards of chainsaw use.

Conclusion: Mastering the Art of the Chainsaw

Upgrading your Poulan chainsaw chain is more than just swapping out a piece of metal. It’s about understanding your saw, your wood, and the principles of safe and efficient cutting. By following these five pro tips, you can transform your chainsaw from a frustrating tool into a powerful ally. Remember to choose the right chain for the job, install it correctly, maintain it diligently, and always prioritize safety. With a little knowledge and practice, you’ll be cutting like a pro in no time. And who knows, maybe you’ll even find a little satisfaction in the process. After all, there’s something deeply rewarding about transforming raw wood into something useful, whether it’s a warm fire on a cold night or a sturdy structure that will stand the test of time. Now, get out there and make some sawdust! Just be careful and have fun.

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