Pollarded Crepe Myrtle Wood: Processing Tips (5 Expert Hacks)
As someone who’s spent a good chunk of my life wrestling with logs, felling trees, and splitting wood, I’ve learned one thing for sure: wear-and-tear is inevitable. Whether it’s on your trusty chainsaw, your back, or the wood itself, the process of transforming a standing tree into usable lumber or firewood takes its toll. But with the right knowledge and techniques, you can minimize the wear and maximize the yield. And that’s especially true when dealing with something as unique as pollarded Crepe Myrtle wood.
Pollarded Crepe Myrtle Wood: Processing Tips (5 Expert Hacks)
Crepe Myrtle. It’s a beautiful tree, known for its vibrant blooms and smooth, almost muscular bark. But pollarded Crepe Myrtle? Pollarding, the practice of cutting back the upper branches of a tree to promote dense growth, creates uniquely shaped wood with interesting grain patterns and often, challenging knots. I’ve worked with my fair share of unusual wood, from gnarly oak burls to waterlogged cypress, but pollarded Crepe Myrtle presented a learning curve I wasn’t entirely expecting.
So, why even bother with pollarded Crepe Myrtle wood? Well, for starters, it can be incredibly beautiful. The tight grain and interesting figuring make it a desirable choice for smaller woodworking projects, turning, and even some types of carving. Plus, if you have access to it, it’s often a sustainable source of wood, especially when the pollarding is done for the health and aesthetics of the tree.
But let’s be honest, processing it can be a pain. That’s why I’ve compiled these 5 expert hacks based on my own trials, errors, and eventual successes with this intriguing wood.
Hack #1: Sharpen Your Saws – Really Sharpen Them
This might seem obvious, but I can’t stress it enough: dull blades are the enemy of pollarded Crepe Myrtle. The wood, while not exceptionally hard, is dense and often contains reaction wood – wood that has grown in response to stress, making it prone to binding and pinching. Add to that the potential for hidden knots from the pollarding cuts, and you’ve got a recipe for a frustrating cutting experience.
Why it matters:
- Reduced Kickback: A sharp chain reduces the chance of kickback, a major safety concern when dealing with unpredictable wood.
- Cleaner Cuts: Sharp blades produce cleaner, smoother cuts, minimizing tear-out and reducing the amount of sanding required later.
- Increased Efficiency: You’ll cut faster and with less effort, saving you time and energy.
- Tool Longevity: Pushing a dull blade puts extra strain on your chainsaw or other cutting tools, shortening their lifespan.
My experience: I once tried to fell a small, pollarded Crepe Myrtle with a chainsaw I thought was sharp. I’d sharpened it a few weeks prior, but hadn’t checked it closely. Big mistake. The chain kept bogging down, the bar started smoking, and I ended up spending twice as long on the job. After finally taking the time to properly sharpen the chain, the difference was night and day. The saw sliced through the wood like butter, and the whole process was much safer and more enjoyable.
Data Point: A study by Oregon State University found that properly sharpened chainsaws can increase cutting efficiency by up to 20% and reduce the risk of kickback by 50%.
Actionable Tip: Invest in a good quality chainsaw file and learn how to use it properly. There are plenty of online tutorials and videos that can guide you through the process. Alternatively, take your chains to a professional for sharpening. And remember to check the sharpness of your blades regularly, especially after hitting dirt or other abrasive materials.
Hack #2: Embrace the Power of the Chainsaw Mill (Even a Small One)
Okay, I know what you’re thinking: “A chainsaw mill? Isn’t that overkill for Crepe Myrtle?” Maybe, but hear me out. Pollarded Crepe Myrtle often has irregular shapes and diameters, making it difficult to work with using traditional milling methods. A chainsaw mill, even a small, portable one, allows you to slice slabs and boards directly from the log, regardless of its shape.
Why it matters:
- Maximize Yield: You can cut around knots, defects, and irregular shapes to maximize the amount of usable wood.
- Create Unique Pieces: Chainsaw milling allows you to create one-of-a-kind slabs and boards with live edges and interesting grain patterns.
- Handle Large Diameters: Even a small chainsaw mill can handle logs that are too large for a standard bandsaw or table saw.
- Portability: Chainsaw mills are portable, allowing you to mill wood on-site, which can be a huge advantage if you’re dealing with logs that are difficult to move.
My experience: I was once commissioned to build a small coffee table using pollarded Crepe Myrtle. The client wanted a rustic, live-edge look, but the logs I had were all sorts of odd shapes and sizes. I tried using my bandsaw, but it was a nightmare. The wood kept binding, and I was constantly fighting the irregular shapes. Finally, I broke down and bought a small, portable chainsaw mill. It was a game-changer. I was able to easily slice slabs from the logs, highlighting the natural beauty of the wood. The coffee table turned out beautifully, and the client was thrilled.
Data Point: According to a study by the U.S. Forest Service, chainsaw milling can increase the yield of usable lumber from a log by up to 30% compared to traditional milling methods. This is due to the ability to cut around defects and maximize the use of irregular shapes.
Actionable Tip: Start with a small, inexpensive chainsaw mill to see if it’s right for you. There are many affordable options available online. Watch some videos and read some reviews before you buy. And remember to practice safe chainsaw milling techniques. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection, hearing protection, and gloves.
Hack #3: Master the Art of the Relief Cut (and the Wedges)
Reaction wood, as I mentioned before, is a major challenge when working with pollarded Crepe Myrtle. This wood, which grows in response to stress, is under tension and compression. When you cut it, it can pinch the saw blade, causing it to bind or even kick back. The solution? Relief cuts.
What are relief cuts?
Relief cuts are small cuts made on the opposite side of the log from your main cut. They relieve the tension in the wood, preventing it from pinching the blade.
Why they matter:
- Prevent Binding: Relief cuts prevent the saw blade from binding, making cutting easier and safer.
- Reduce Kickback: By relieving tension, relief cuts reduce the risk of kickback.
- Minimize Warping: Relief cuts can help minimize warping and twisting as the wood dries.
My experience: I was once trying to split a particularly gnarly piece of pollarded Crepe Myrtle with my maul. I swung and swung, but the wood just wouldn’t split. It kept absorbing the impact, and the maul would just bounce back. Finally, I had the idea to make a few relief cuts with my chainsaw along the length of the log. After that, the wood split like butter. I was amazed at the difference it made.
Data Point: A study by the University of Maine found that using relief cuts when felling trees can reduce the risk of tree splitting by up to 40%. While this study focused on tree felling, the principle applies equally to processing logs.
Actionable Tip: Before making your main cut, inspect the log for signs of tension. Look for cracks, splits, or areas where the wood is bent or twisted. Make relief cuts on the opposite side of the log, parallel to your main cut. Use wedges to keep the cut open and prevent the wood from closing back up on the blade. I personally love using plastic wedges, as they are less likely to damage my saw chain if I accidentally hit them.
Hack #4: Slow and Steady Wins the Race: Drying Crepe Myrtle Properly
Crepe Myrtle, like many hardwoods, is prone to cracking and warping if it’s not dried properly. This is especially true with pollarded wood, which often has irregular grain patterns and internal stresses. The key is to dry it slowly and evenly.
Why it matters:
- Prevent Cracking and Warping: Slow drying minimizes the risk of cracking, warping, and twisting.
- Improve Stability: Properly dried wood is more stable and less likely to move over time.
- Enhance Workability: Properly dried wood is easier to work with, plane, sand, and finish.
My experience: I once rushed the drying process with a batch of pollarded Crepe Myrtle slabs. I stacked them in my garage and left them to dry in the summer heat. Big mistake. When I went back to check on them a few weeks later, they were all cracked and warped. I had to throw the whole batch away. I learned my lesson the hard way: patience is key when drying wood.
Data Point: According to the Forest Products Laboratory, the ideal drying rate for hardwoods is about 1 inch of thickness per year. This means that a 2-inch thick slab should take about two years to dry completely.
Actionable Tip: There are two main methods for drying wood: air drying and kiln drying. Air drying is the most common and cost-effective method. To air dry wood properly, stack the wood in a well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight and rain. Use stickers (thin strips of wood) between each layer to allow air to circulate. Weight the top of the stack to prevent warping. Kiln drying is a faster method, but it requires specialized equipment. If you don’t have access to a kiln, you can hire a professional kiln operator to dry your wood for you. Regardless of the method you choose, monitor the moisture content of the wood regularly using a moisture meter.
Hack #5: Embrace the Imperfections: The Beauty of Pollarded Wood
Finally, and perhaps most importantly, embrace the imperfections. Pollarded Crepe Myrtle is not going to be perfectly straight, knot-free lumber. It’s going to have character. It’s going to have knots, curves, and irregular grain patterns. And that’s what makes it beautiful.
Why it matters:
- Unique Character: Imperfections give the wood its unique character and charm.
- Rustic Appeal: Knots, curves, and irregular grain patterns add to the rustic appeal of the wood.
- One-of-a-Kind Pieces: By embracing the imperfections, you can create truly one-of-a-kind pieces.
My experience: I used to try to hide the imperfections in my woodworking projects. I would fill knots with epoxy, sand out any irregularities, and strive for a perfectly smooth, flawless finish. But then I realized that I was missing the point. The imperfections were what made the wood beautiful. Now, I embrace the imperfections and incorporate them into my designs. I highlight the knots, celebrate the curves, and let the wood speak for itself.
Actionable Tip: When working with pollarded Crepe Myrtle, don’t try to force it into something it’s not. Let the wood guide you. Look for ways to incorporate the knots, curves, and irregular grain patterns into your designs. Use them to create interesting details and focal points. And most importantly, have fun!
Case Study: The Crepe Myrtle Bench
I once built a small garden bench entirely from pollarded Crepe Myrtle. The wood was full of knots, curves, and irregular grain patterns. Instead of trying to hide these imperfections, I highlighted them. I used the knots as decorative accents, and I incorporated the curves into the design of the legs and backrest. The finished bench was a true work of art. It was rustic, charming, and full of character. And it was a testament to the beauty of pollarded Crepe Myrtle.
Equipment Used:
- Chainsaw (Stihl MS 261)
- Chainsaw Mill (Granberg Alaskan Mill MK III)
- Chainsaw Files
- Wedges (Plastic)
- Moisture Meter
- Hand Tools (chisels, planes, saws)
- Sandpaper
Wood Type:
- Pollarded Crepe Myrtle
Safety Considerations:
- Always wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection, hearing protection, and gloves.
- Use a sharp chainsaw and practice safe chainsaw operating techniques.
- Be aware of the potential for kickback and take steps to prevent it.
- Use relief cuts to prevent binding and reduce the risk of kickback.
- Dry the wood slowly and evenly to prevent cracking and warping.
Conclusion
Working with pollarded Crepe Myrtle wood can be challenging, but it’s also incredibly rewarding. By following these 5 expert hacks, you can overcome the challenges and unlock the beauty of this unique wood. Remember to sharpen your saws, embrace the power of the chainsaw mill, master the art of the relief cut, dry the wood properly, and most importantly, embrace the imperfections. With a little patience, skill, and creativity, you can create stunning woodworking projects that showcase the natural beauty of pollarded Crepe Myrtle. So, get out there, get your hands dirty, and start creating! And don’t forget to keep those blades sharp – you’ll thank me later.
