Pollard Tree Before and After (5 Pro Woodcutting Techniques)

I’ve spent a good chunk of my life around trees, from helping my grandfather clear fallen timber after storms as a kid to managing larger-scale forestry projects as an adult. One thing that always fascinated me was pollarding – that seemingly drastic haircut you sometimes see on trees. It looks severe, but when done right, it can be a fantastic way to manage trees, especially in urban or limited-space environments. The query “Pollard Tree Before and After (5 Pro Woodcutting Techniques)” suggests someone wants to understand pollarding, its visual impact (the “before and after”), and the practical woodcutting methods involved. So, let’s dive deep into pollarding and explore five pro woodcutting techniques I’ve learned over the years that are crucial for successful pollarding.

Understanding Pollarding: More Than Just a Haircut

Pollarding isn’t just about lopping off branches. It’s a specific pruning technique that involves removing the upper branches of a tree, promoting a dense head of new growth. This is done at a specific height, creating a “pollard head.”

Why Pollard?

• Size Control: This is the big one. Pollarding keeps trees smaller than they would naturally grow, making them suitable for smaller gardens, urban streets, or areas with overhead obstructions like power lines.
• Wood Production: Historically, pollarding was used to sustainably harvest wood for fuel, fodder, or building materials. The regrowth is rapid and renewable.
• Aesthetics: A well-pollarded tree can be quite striking, adding a unique architectural element to the landscape.
• Safety: Removing large, potentially hazardous branches reduces the risk of falling limbs, especially in areas with high foot traffic.
• Wildlife Habitat: The dense regrowth provides shelter and nesting sites for birds and other animals.

Key Concepts:

• Pollard Head: The point on the trunk where the branches are repeatedly cut back to.
• Regrowth: The new shoots that emerge from the pollard head after pruning.
• Coppicing: A similar technique to pollarding, but done at ground level. It’s used to encourage the growth of multiple stems from the base of the tree.
• Epicormic Growth: New shoots that emerge from dormant buds on the trunk or branches. Pollarding relies on this type of growth.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood:

This is crucial when dealing with the wood you harvest from pollarding.

• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often 50% or more). It’s heavier, harder to burn, and more prone to fungal decay.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry, reducing its moisture content to around 20% or less. It’s lighter, easier to burn, and less susceptible to decay.

Before and After: Visualizing the Transformation

The “before and after” of pollarding is dramatic.

Before: A mature tree with a full crown, potentially overgrown or reaching heights unsuitable for its location. Branches might be weak, crossing, or rubbing against each other.

After: A tree with a clean, defined pollard head and a flush of new growth. The tree is significantly smaller and more manageable.

Example: I once worked on a project involving a row of London Plane trees along a city street. Before pollarding, the trees were touching overhead power lines. After the initial pollarding, and subsequent annual maintenance, the trees were safely below the power lines, and the streetscape was significantly improved. The local residents even commented on how much more sunlight reached their homes.

5 Pro Woodcutting Techniques for Pollarding

Now, let’s get into the practical side of things. These are the techniques I rely on when pollarding, ensuring clean cuts, tree health, and personal safety.

1. The Precise Cut: Avoiding Tears and Dieback

Concept: A clean, angled cut promotes rapid healing and prevents disease from entering the tree.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Assessment: Before you even touch a saw, assess the branch you’re about to cut. Identify the branch collar (the slightly swollen area where the branch joins the trunk).
2. Undercut: Make a small undercut on the underside of the branch, about a foot away from the branch collar. This prevents the bark from tearing as the branch falls. The undercut should be about one-third of the branch’s diameter.
3. Top Cut: Make a top cut a few inches further out from the undercut. Cut down until the branch breaks free.
4. Final Cut: Now, make the final cut just outside the branch collar, at a slight angle (about 30 degrees). The angle should be such that the highest point of the cut is facing away from the trunk. Avoid cutting flush with the trunk, as this can damage the trunk tissue and hinder healing.
5. Smooth the Cut: Use a sharp pruning knife or chisel to smooth the edges of the cut. This helps the tree to callus over quickly.

Tools:

• Chainsaw: For larger branches (I prefer a Stihl MS 261 for its power and maneuverability).
• Pole Saw: For branches higher up in the tree (I use a Husqvarna 525PT5S).
• Hand Saw: For smaller branches and fine-tuning cuts (a Silky Zubat is my go-to).
• Pruning Knife/Chisel: For smoothing cuts.

Measurements:

• Undercut Depth: 1/3 of the branch diameter.
• Angle of Final Cut: 30 degrees.
• Distance from Branch Collar: A few millimeters (about 1/8 inch) outside the branch collar.

Example: I once had a client who tried pollarding their own trees without proper technique. They made flush cuts, damaging the branch collars. The trees developed fungal infections and started to decline. I had to clean up their mess by carefully removing the infected tissue and making proper cuts to promote healing.

Strategic Advantage: This technique minimizes stress on the tree, promoting healthy regrowth and longevity.

2. The Hinge Cut: Controlled Felling for Safety

Concept: This technique allows you to control the direction in which a branch falls, preventing damage to property or injury to people.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Planning: Before you start, assess the surroundings. Identify any potential hazards (power lines, buildings, people). Determine the desired direction of fall.
2. Notch Cut: On the side of the branch facing the desired direction of fall, make a notch cut. This consists of two cuts: a horizontal cut that goes about one-third of the way through the branch, and an angled cut that meets the horizontal cut, forming a wedge.
3. Back Cut: On the opposite side of the branch from the notch cut, make a back cut. This cut should be slightly higher than the horizontal cut of the notch. Leave a “hinge” of wood between the back cut and the notch cut. The hinge is what controls the direction of fall.
4. Wedge (Optional): If the branch is heavy or the desired direction of fall is uncertain, insert a felling wedge into the back cut. Use a hammer or axe to drive the wedge in, forcing the branch to fall in the desired direction.
5. Final Cut: Once the branch starts to fall, make a final cut to sever the hinge.

Tools:

• Chainsaw: Essential for larger branches.
• Felling Wedge: For controlling the direction of fall.
• Hammer/Axe: To drive the felling wedge.

Measurements:

• Notch Cut Depth: 1/3 of the branch diameter.
• Hinge Width: About 10% of the branch diameter.

Example: I was once working on a pollarding project near a busy road. Using the hinge cut, I was able to safely fell large branches away from the road, preventing any traffic disruptions or accidents.

Strategic Advantage: This technique prioritizes safety and minimizes the risk of damage. It’s especially important when working in confined spaces or near valuable assets.

3. The Bore Cut: Relieving Tension and Preventing Pinching

Concept: This technique is used to relieve tension in branches that are under compression, preventing the chainsaw bar from getting pinched.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Assessment: Identify the area of the branch that is under compression (usually the underside of a bent branch).
2. Pilot Hole: Use the tip of the chainsaw bar to carefully bore a small hole into the branch, on the tension side (usually the top side).
3. Bore Cut: Insert the tip of the chainsaw bar into the pilot hole and carefully bore through the branch, keeping the bar moving to prevent pinching.
4. Complete the Cut: Once you’ve bored through most of the branch, carefully complete the cut from the outside, avoiding any sudden movements that could cause the branch to spring back.

Tools:

• Chainsaw: A chainsaw with a narrow bar is ideal for bore cutting (I use a Stihl MS 150 TC-E for this).

Measurements:

• Pilot Hole Diameter: Just large enough to accommodate the tip of the chainsaw bar.

Example: I often use the bore cut when removing heavy, drooping branches that are under a lot of tension. Without this technique, the chainsaw bar would almost certainly get pinched, making the cut difficult and potentially dangerous.

Strategic Advantage: This technique prevents chainsaw pinching, making cuts safer and more efficient. It also reduces the risk of damage to the chainsaw.

4. The Chunking Method: Safely Removing Large Branches

Concept: This technique involves cutting a large branch into smaller, more manageable pieces, making it easier to handle and reducing the risk of injury.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Assessment: Determine the size and weight of the branch. Identify any potential hazards.
2. Initial Cut: Make a cut a few feet away from the trunk, severing the branch partially.
3. Chunking Cuts: Make a series of cuts along the branch, dividing it into smaller sections. The size of the sections will depend on the weight and size of the branch.
4. Final Cut: Once the branch has been divided into smaller sections, make the final cut at the trunk, removing the remaining stub.

Tools:

• Chainsaw: A chainsaw with a longer bar is helpful for chunking larger branches.
• Rope (Optional): For lowering heavier sections of the branch.

Measurements:

• Section Length: Depends on the weight and size of the branch. Aim for sections that are easy to handle.

Example: When dealing with very large branches, I always use the chunking method. It’s much safer and easier than trying to remove the entire branch in one piece. I once had to remove a massive oak branch that was over 20 feet long. By chunking it into smaller sections, I was able to safely lower each piece to the ground without any problems.

Strategic Advantage: This technique prioritizes safety and reduces the risk of injury when dealing with large, heavy branches.

5. Wood Stacking Techniques: Maximizing Drying and Space

Concept: Proper wood stacking is essential for seasoning firewood efficiently and maximizing storage space.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Location: Choose a sunny and windy location for your woodpile. This will promote rapid drying.
2. Base: Create a solid base for the woodpile. This can be done by laying down pallets, logs, or gravel. This prevents the wood from sitting directly on the ground, which can lead to rot.
3. Stacking: Stack the wood in rows, leaving gaps between the rows and between the individual pieces of wood. This allows air to circulate freely, promoting drying.
4. End Supports: Create end supports for the woodpile to prevent it from collapsing. This can be done by using vertical posts, logs, or even old tires.
5. Covering (Optional): Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp or sheet of metal to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.

Methods:

• Traditional Row Stack: Simple and effective, with rows of wood stacked parallel to each other.
• Holz Hausen (Round Stack): A more decorative and space-efficient method, with wood stacked in a circular pattern.
• Criss-Cross Stack: Wood is stacked in alternating directions, creating a stable and visually appealing stack.

Measurements:

• Gap Between Rows: 2-4 inches.
• Stack Height: No more than 6 feet for safety.

Case Study: I experimented with different wood stacking methods to see which one resulted in the fastest drying time. I found that the traditional row stack, with proper spacing and a sunny location, resulted in the fastest drying time. Wood stacked using the Holz Hausen method took slightly longer to dry, but it was more space-efficient.

Strategic Advantage: Proper wood stacking ensures efficient drying, which results in better-burning firewood. It also maximizes storage space and prevents wood rot.

Chainsaws, Axes, and Log Splitters: Your Essential Tools

No discussion of woodcutting is complete without talking about the tools.

Chainsaws:

• Types: Gas-powered, electric, battery-powered.
• Selection: Choose a chainsaw based on the size of the branches you’ll be cutting and the frequency of use. For pollarding, a mid-sized gas-powered chainsaw (like the Stihl MS 261) is a good all-around choice. For smaller branches, a battery-powered chainsaw (like the Stihl MSA 220 C-B) is convenient and easy to use.
• Maintenance: Keep the chain sharp, the bar lubricated, and the air filter clean.

Axes:

• Types: Felling axes, splitting axes, hatchets.
• Selection: A splitting axe is essential for splitting firewood. A felling axe is useful for felling small trees or large branches. A hatchet is handy for smaller tasks, like limbing.
• Technique: Use proper technique to avoid injury. Keep your back straight, your feet shoulder-width apart, and swing the axe with your whole body.

Log Splitters:

• Types: Hydraulic, manual.
• Selection: A hydraulic log splitter is a huge time-saver if you’re splitting a lot of firewood. Manual log splitters are less expensive, but they require more effort.
• Efficiency: A hydraulic splitter can split several cords of wood in a single day.

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaw Bar Length: 16-20 inches for general pollarding.
• Axe Weight: 6-8 pounds for splitting axes.
• Log Splitter Tonnage: 20-30 tons for most firewood splitting.

Wood Type Selection: Knowing Your Timber

Different types of wood have different properties, which affect their suitability for firewood or other uses.

• Hardwoods: Dense, slow-burning, and produce a lot of heat (e.g., oak, maple, ash).
• Softwoods: Less dense, faster-burning, and produce less heat (e.g., pine, fir, spruce).

Example: Oak is an excellent choice for firewood because it burns hot and long. Pine is a good choice for kindling because it lights easily.

Moisture Content Targets:

• Firewood: 15-20% moisture content for optimal burning.
• Construction Lumber: 12-15% moisture content.

Safety First: Protecting Yourself

Safety is paramount when working with chainsaws and other woodcutting tools.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chaps, and sturdy boots.
• Chainsaw Safety: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for safe chainsaw operation. Be aware of the risks of kickback.
• Axe Safety: Use proper technique and keep a safe distance from others.
• First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of injury.

Safety Standards:

• ANSI Z133: American National Standard for Arboricultural Operations – Safety Requirements.
• OSHA 1910.266: Logging Operations.

Costs, Timing, and Skill Levels

• Costs: The cost of pollarding can vary depending on the size and number of trees, the complexity of the job, and the location.
• Timing: The best time to pollard trees is in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins.
• Skill Levels: Pollarding requires a certain level of skill and experience. It’s best to hire a qualified arborist if you’re not comfortable doing it yourself.

Drying Times:

• Softwoods: 6-12 months to season.
• Hardwoods: 12-24 months to season.

Next Steps: Putting Your Knowledge into Action

Now that you have a solid understanding of pollarding and the woodcutting techniques involved, here are some next steps you can take:

1. Assess Your Trees: Determine if pollarding is the right solution for your trees.
2. Gather Your Tools: Make sure you have the necessary tools and equipment, including a chainsaw, pole saw, axe, and safety gear.
3. Practice Your Techniques: Practice the woodcutting techniques on smaller branches or logs before tackling larger trees.
4. Hire a Professional (If Needed): If you’re not comfortable doing the job yourself, hire a qualified arborist.
5. Season Your Firewood: Stack your firewood properly to ensure efficient drying.

Pollarding, when done correctly, can be a sustainable and beneficial practice. By mastering these pro woodcutting techniques and prioritizing safety, you can manage your trees effectively and enjoy the fruits (or firewood!) of your labor. Remember, patience and practice are key. The more you work with wood, the better you’ll become at understanding its nuances and applying these techniques effectively. And always, always prioritize safety. The trees will be there tomorrow; your well-being is paramount.

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