Oregon 91Px Chains: Best Buys for Firewood Cutting (5 Pro Tips)

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This guide will focus on maximizing your efficiency and safety when cutting firewood, specifically using the Oregon 91PX chain, a popular choice for homeowners and small-scale woodcutters. I’ll share five pro tips based on my years of experience, backed by data and insights gleaned from various firewood projects.

Understanding the Oregon 91PX Chain

Before we dive into the tips, let’s clarify what makes the Oregon 91PX chain a good choice for firewood cutting.

• Low-Kickback Design: This is a crucial safety feature, especially for beginners. The 91PX chain is designed to reduce the likelihood of the chainsaw kicking back, which can cause serious injury.
• Narrow Kerf: The narrow kerf (the width of the cut) means less wood is wasted as sawdust and the chainsaw requires less power to cut through the wood. This translates to faster cutting and less strain on your chainsaw.
• Versatility: The 91PX chain is suitable for a wide range of small to medium-sized chainsaws, typically those with a bar length of 14 to 18 inches.
• Ease of Sharpening: Sharpening your chain regularly is essential for efficient and safe cutting. The 91PX is relatively easy to sharpen, even for beginners.

Key Terms:

• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw chain.
• Kickback: The sudden and uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw bar.
• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried (seasoned) to reduce its moisture content.

Tip #1: Mastering Chain Sharpening – The Key to Efficient Cutting

A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and putting unnecessary strain on your chainsaw. I’ve seen firsthand how a sharp chain can transform a frustrating chore into a smooth, almost effortless process.

Why Sharpening Matters:

• Increased Cutting Speed: A sharp chain cuts through wood much faster, saving you time and energy.
• Reduced Strain on Chainsaw: A dull chain forces the chainsaw to work harder, leading to premature wear and tear on the engine and components.
• Improved Safety: A sharp chain bites into the wood cleanly, reducing the risk of kickback.
• Cleaner Cuts: A sharp chain produces cleaner, more uniform cuts, which is important for splitting firewood.

Step-by-Step Guide to Sharpening the Oregon 91PX Chain:

1. Gather Your Tools: You’ll need a chainsaw file (usually 5/32″ for the 91PX), a file guide, a depth gauge tool, and a vise to hold the chainsaw bar securely. I personally prefer a filing vise that clamps onto the bar, allowing me to sharpen the chain while it’s still on the chainsaw.
2. Secure the Chainsaw Bar: Clamp the chainsaw bar in the vise, ensuring the chain is easily accessible.
3. Identify the Cutting Teeth: Each cutting tooth has a cutting edge and a depth gauge (also called a raker).
4. Position the File: Place the file guide on top of the tooth, aligning the file with the angle markings on the guide. The Oregon 91PX typically requires a 30-degree filing angle.
5. File the Cutting Edge: Using smooth, consistent strokes, file the cutting edge from the inside out. Apply light pressure and maintain the correct angle. Count the number of strokes for each tooth to ensure consistent sharpening. Typically, 3-5 strokes are sufficient.
6. Sharpen All Teeth: Repeat the filing process for each cutting tooth on the chain, alternating sides.
7. Check and Adjust Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges (rakers). If they are too high, file them down slightly using a flat file. The recommended depth gauge setting for the 91PX is typically 0.025 inches.
8. Test the Chain: After sharpening, test the chain on a piece of wood. A properly sharpened chain should cut smoothly and aggressively.

Data and Insights:

• Sharpening Frequency: I’ve found that sharpening the chain after every 2-3 tanks of gas is a good rule of thumb. However, the frequency may vary depending on the type of wood you’re cutting and the presence of dirt or debris.
• File Angle: Maintaining the correct file angle is crucial for optimal cutting performance. Using a file guide helps ensure consistency.
• Depth Gauge Adjustment: Incorrect depth gauge settings can significantly affect cutting performance. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain will skip and bounce. If they are too low, the chain will cut aggressively but may be prone to kickback.

Case Study:

I once worked on a project clearing a large area of overgrown brush and small trees. The chainsaw chain became dull very quickly due to the presence of dirt and debris. Initially, I tried to power through, but the cutting speed was slow, and the chainsaw was overheating. After taking the time to sharpen the chain properly, the cutting speed increased dramatically, and the chainsaw ran much cooler. This experience reinforced the importance of regular chain sharpening.

Tip #2: Selecting the Right Chainsaw for the Job

While the Oregon 91PX chain is versatile, it’s important to choose a chainsaw that’s appropriate for the size of the trees you’ll be cutting. Using a chainsaw that’s too small can be inefficient and potentially dangerous, while using one that’s too large can be cumbersome and tiring.

Chainsaw Size and Bar Length:

• Small Chainsaws (14-16 inch bar): Ideal for cutting small trees and branches, limbing, and general firewood cutting. These chainsaws are lightweight and easy to maneuver.
• Medium Chainsaws (16-18 inch bar): Suitable for cutting medium-sized trees and larger firewood rounds. These chainsaws offer a good balance of power and maneuverability.
• Large Chainsaws (18+ inch bar): Designed for felling large trees and cutting large logs. These chainsaws are powerful but can be heavy and difficult to handle.

Chainsaw Power (Engine Size):

• Under 40cc: Good for light-duty tasks.
• 40-50cc: Suitable for most firewood cutting needs.
• Over 50cc: For heavy-duty cutting and felling large trees.

Choosing the Right Chainsaw:

Consider the following factors when selecting a chainsaw for firewood cutting:

• Typical Tree Size: What is the average diameter of the trees you’ll be cutting?
• Wood Type: Are you cutting softwood (pine, fir) or hardwood (oak, maple)? Hardwoods require more power to cut.
• Frequency of Use: How often will you be using the chainsaw?
• Physical Strength and Stamina: Can you comfortably handle a heavier chainsaw for extended periods?
• Budget: Chainsaw prices can vary widely.

My Recommendation:

For most homeowners cutting firewood, a medium-sized chainsaw with a 16-18 inch bar and a 40-50cc engine is a good choice. This size offers a good balance of power and maneuverability for cutting a variety of wood types and sizes.

Personal Experience:

I started with a small chainsaw and quickly realized it wasn’t powerful enough for the types of trees I was cutting. I upgraded to a medium-sized chainsaw, and the difference was night and day. The cutting speed was much faster, and I was able to cut larger trees with ease.

Tip #3: Mastering Felling Techniques for Safety and Efficiency

Felling a tree is a serious undertaking that requires careful planning and execution. It’s crucial to understand the basic principles of tree felling to ensure your safety and the safety of those around you. I’ve seen too many accidents caused by improper felling techniques.

Essential Felling Techniques:

1. Assess the Tree and Surroundings: Before felling a tree, carefully assess the tree’s lean, branch distribution, and any signs of decay or weakness. Also, identify any obstacles in the surrounding area, such as power lines, buildings, or roads.
2. Plan the Felling Direction: Determine the direction in which you want the tree to fall. Consider the tree’s natural lean, the wind direction, and the location of any obstacles.
3. Clear the Area: Clear a path around the base of the tree and in the direction of the intended fall. Remove any brush, rocks, or other obstacles that could trip you.
4. Make the Notch Cut: The notch cut is a wedge-shaped cut that determines the direction of the fall. It should be made on the side of the tree facing the desired felling direction. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
5. Make the Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. It should be made slightly above the bottom of the notch cut. Leave a hinge of wood between the back cut and the notch cut. The hinge helps control the fall of the tree.
6. Use Felling Wedges: If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction or if you need to control the fall more precisely, use felling wedges. Insert the wedges into the back cut and hammer them in to help push the tree over.
7. Retreat Safely: As the tree begins to fall, retreat quickly and safely away from the base of the tree. Watch out for falling branches.

Safety Considerations:

• Wear appropriate safety gear: This includes a helmet, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
• Never fell a tree alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.
• Be aware of your surroundings: Watch out for power lines, buildings, and other obstacles.
• Never fell a tree in high winds: High winds can make it difficult to control the fall of the tree.
• Take breaks: Felling trees is physically demanding work. Take breaks to avoid fatigue.

Data and Insights:

• Notch Depth: The depth of the notch cut should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter. A deeper notch cut can cause the tree to fall prematurely.
• Hinge Width: The width of the hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter. A wider hinge provides more control over the fall of the tree.
• Felling Wedge Angle: The angle of the felling wedges should be about 10 degrees. A steeper angle can cause the wedges to slip out.

Case Study:

I once witnessed a near-fatal accident caused by improper felling techniques. A homeowner was felling a tree without making a proper notch cut. The tree fell in an unexpected direction and narrowly missed him. This incident highlighted the importance of proper training and safety precautions when felling trees.

Tip #4: Efficient Bucking and Splitting Techniques

Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is to buck it into manageable lengths for firewood. Bucking refers to cutting the tree trunk into shorter sections. After bucking, the wood needs to be split into smaller pieces for burning.

Bucking Techniques:

• Choose the Right Length: Determine the appropriate length for your firewood based on the size of your wood stove or fireplace. A common length is 16 inches.
• Use a Measuring Tool: Use a measuring stick or tape measure to ensure consistent lengths.
• Support the Log: Place the log on a support, such as a log jack or a pile of smaller logs, to prevent the chainsaw from pinching.
• Make Clean Cuts: Make clean, straight cuts through the log. Avoid cutting into the ground.

Splitting Techniques:

• Manual Splitting: Using an axe or maul to split firewood is a great way to get exercise and connect with nature. However, it can be physically demanding.
  • Choose the Right Tool: Use a splitting axe for smaller rounds and a maul for larger, tougher rounds.
  • Use a Splitting Block: Place the round on a sturdy splitting block.
  • Aim for the Center: Aim for the center of the round and swing with force.
  • Use Wedges: For particularly tough rounds, use splitting wedges.
• Hydraulic Log Splitters: Hydraulic log splitters are a much faster and easier way to split firewood, especially for larger volumes.
  • Choose the Right Size: Select a log splitter with sufficient tonnage for the size of the rounds you’ll be splitting. A 20-ton splitter is typically sufficient for most firewood cutting needs.
  • Follow the Manufacturer’s Instructions: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for operating the log splitter safely.
  • Wear Safety Gear: Wear safety glasses and gloves when operating a log splitter.

Data and Insights:

• Splitting Wedge Design: Splitting wedges with a twisted design are more effective at splitting tough rounds.
• Hydraulic Log Splitter Cycle Time: The cycle time of a hydraulic log splitter refers to the time it takes for the ram to extend and retract. A shorter cycle time means faster splitting.
• Ergonomics: When splitting firewood manually, pay attention to your posture and technique to avoid back strain.

Case Study:

I used to split all my firewood manually with an axe. It was a good workout, but it was also very time-consuming and tiring. I eventually invested in a hydraulic log splitter, and it has made a huge difference. I can now split a cord of wood in a fraction of the time it used to take.

Tip #5: Proper Firewood Seasoning and Storage

Once the firewood is split, it needs to be seasoned (dried) before it can be burned efficiently. Green wood has a high moisture content, which makes it difficult to ignite and causes it to produce a lot of smoke. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, burns cleanly and efficiently.

Seasoning Process:

• Stack the Firewood: Stack the firewood in a single row, leaving space between the rows for air circulation.
• Elevate the Firewood: Elevate the firewood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood. You can use pallets or concrete blocks.
• Cover the Top: Cover the top of the firewood pile with a tarp or roof to protect it from rain and snow.
• Allow Air Circulation: Ensure good air circulation around the firewood pile.
• Monitor Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the firewood. Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of less than 20%.

Storage Tips:

• Store Firewood Away from the House: Store firewood at least 20 feet away from the house to prevent insect infestations and reduce the risk of fire.
• Store Firewood in a Dry Place: Store firewood in a dry, well-ventilated place.
• Protect Firewood from the Elements: Protect firewood from rain, snow, and sun.

Data and Insights:

• Drying Time: The drying time for firewood varies depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Softwoods typically dry faster than hardwoods. In general, firewood should be seasoned for at least six months, and preferably a year.
• Moisture Content: Green wood can have a moisture content of up to 50%. Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of less than 20%.
• Wood Type and BTU Value: Different types of wood have different BTU (British Thermal Unit) values. Hardwoods, such as oak and maple, have higher BTU values than softwoods, such as pine and fir.

Case Study:

I once made the mistake of burning green wood in my wood stove. It was difficult to ignite, produced a lot of smoke, and didn’t generate much heat. I quickly learned the importance of seasoning firewood properly. Now, I always make sure my firewood is well-seasoned before burning it.

Strategic Advantages and Final Thoughts

By implementing these five pro tips – mastering chain sharpening, selecting the right chainsaw, mastering felling techniques, efficient bucking and splitting, and proper seasoning and storage – you can significantly improve your efficiency and safety when cutting firewood.

Beyond the practical benefits, there’s a deeper satisfaction that comes from preparing your own firewood. It’s a connection to nature, a physical challenge, and a way to provide warmth and comfort for your family. So, get out there, sharpen your chain, and start cutting! Just remember to prioritize safety and enjoy the process. The warmth of a wood-burning fire on a cold winter night is well worth the effort.

Next Steps:

1. Assess your current chainsaw and determine if it’s the right size for your needs.
2. Practice your chain sharpening skills.
3. Review safety guidelines for felling trees.
4. Consider investing in a hydraulic log splitter if you cut a lot of firewood.
5. Start stacking your firewood for seasoning.

Remember, continuous learning and practice are key to becoming a skilled and safe woodcutter. Happy cutting!

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