Orange Mould On Wood (5 Pro Tips For Safe Firewood Handling)

Alright, let’s talk about future-proofing your firewood and keeping that orange mould at bay. It’s a topic that’s close to my heart, and something I’ve learned a thing or two about over the years. Think of it this way: preparing firewood isn’t just about staying warm in the winter; it’s about securing a resource, practicing sustainability, and, frankly, getting a darn good workout. And part of that security is knowing how to handle that pesky orange mould.

The State of the Wood: A Global Perspective

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of orange mould and firewood, let’s take a quick look at the broader picture. Globally, the firewood industry is a significant player in both domestic heating and small-scale energy production. In many regions, especially in developing countries, firewood remains the primary source of fuel for cooking and heating. Even in developed nations, there’s a resurgence of interest in wood-burning stoves and fireplaces, driven by rising energy costs and a desire for a more sustainable lifestyle.

According to the FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations), fuelwood accounts for a substantial portion of global wood consumption, with hundreds of millions of people relying on it daily. The demand is only expected to increase, making sustainable forestry practices and efficient firewood preparation more critical than ever. The global firewood market is expected to reach billions of dollars in the coming years, fueled by both traditional use and niche markets like wood-fired pizza ovens and outdoor heating.

Here in North America, the story is a bit different but still relevant. While firewood isn’t the primary heating source for most, it’s a popular choice for supplemental heating, ambiance, and recreational use. According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA), wood energy accounts for a small but significant percentage of total renewable energy consumption. I’ve seen firsthand how the rising costs of propane and electricity have driven more and more folks to consider firewood as a viable alternative.

The Orange Intruder: Understanding Orange Mould

Now, let’s get down to the business of orange mould. What exactly is it? It’s not a single organism, but rather a collective term often used to describe various types of fungi and slime moulds that can grow on wood. The vibrant orange color is often due to pigments produced by these organisms.

While orange mould might look alarming, it’s important to understand that it’s usually not a direct threat to your health. However, it is an indicator of moisture and potential decay in your wood. And that, my friends, is a problem for several reasons:

Reduced Heating Value: Mould and decay break down the wood’s cellulose, which is what burns and produces heat. This means mouldy wood will burn less efficiently and produce less heat.
Smokier Fires: Decaying wood tends to produce more smoke, which can be irritating to breathe and can contribute to creosote buildup in your chimney, increasing the risk of a chimney fire.
Structural Weakness: Over time, mould and decay can weaken the structural integrity of the wood, making it unsuitable for building or other applications.
Allergenic Potential: While not directly toxic, some moulds can trigger allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.

My Own Brush with the Orange Beast

I remember one year, I thought I’d gotten ahead of the game by cutting and splitting my firewood in early spring. I stacked it neatly, covered it with a tarp, and figured I was golden. Come fall, when I started bringing the wood in, I discovered a nasty surprise: patches of bright orange mould all over the stack. I’d made the classic mistake of not allowing for adequate airflow. The tarp had trapped moisture, creating the perfect breeding ground for the mould. It was a humbling experience, and one I’ve never forgotten. That’s when I really started researching the best practices for firewood storage and handling.

5 Pro Tips for Safe Firewood Handling (and Kicking Orange Mould to the Curb)

Alright, let’s get to the actionable advice you came here for. Based on my own experiences and a whole lot of research, here are my top 5 pro tips for handling firewood safely and preventing that dreaded orange mould:

1. Airflow is King (and Queen): Proper Stacking Techniques

This is, without a doubt, the most critical factor in preventing mould growth. Mould thrives in damp, stagnant environments. The key is to promote airflow around your firewood stack.

Elevate Your Stack: Don’t just stack your wood directly on the ground. Use pallets, cinder blocks, or even old tires to create an air gap beneath the stack. This allows air to circulate and prevents moisture from wicking up from the ground. I personally use a combination of old pallets and pressure-treated 4x4s to create a solid, elevated base.
Leave Space Between Rows: Don’t pack your firewood tightly together. Leave a few inches of space between rows to allow air to circulate. This is especially important in humid climates.
Stack in a Single Row (if possible): If you have the space, stacking your firewood in a single row, rather than a deep pile, maximizes airflow and drying.
The “Holz Hausen” Method (For the Ambitious): This traditional German method involves stacking wood in a circular pile with a slightly inward slope. This creates a natural chimney effect, promoting airflow and drying. It’s a bit more labor-intensive, but it looks fantastic and is highly effective. I’ve seen studies suggesting that Holz Hausen stacks can dry wood up to 20% faster than traditional linear stacks.
Orientation Matters: If possible, orient your stack so that it’s exposed to prevailing winds. This will further enhance airflow and speed up the drying process.
Data Point: A study by the University of Maine found that firewood stacked off the ground and with adequate spacing dried 30-50% faster than firewood stacked directly on the ground.
Personalized Story: I once helped a friend who was struggling with mouldy firewood. He was stacking his wood tightly against his garage wall, thinking it would protect it from the rain. We moved the stack away from the wall, elevated it on pallets, and left space between the rows. The difference was remarkable. Within a few weeks, the wood was noticeably drier, and the mould growth had stopped.

2. The Right Cover: Balancing Protection and Ventilation

Covering your firewood stack is essential to protect it from rain and snow, but it’s crucial to do it correctly. A poorly designed cover can trap moisture and create a breeding ground for mould.

Don’t Fully Enclose the Stack: Avoid wrapping your entire stack in a tarp. This will trap moisture and prevent airflow.
Cover Only the Top: The best approach is to cover only the top of the stack, leaving the sides open for ventilation. This will protect the wood from rain and snow while still allowing air to circulate.
Use a Tarp Wisely: If you use a tarp, make sure it’s properly secured and that it doesn’t extend too far down the sides of the stack. Leave plenty of space for air to flow.
Consider a Roof: For a more permanent solution, consider building a simple roof over your firewood stack. This will provide excellent protection from the elements while still allowing for good ventilation.
Alternatives to Tarps: Instead of tarps, consider using corrugated metal roofing sheets or even old billboards. These materials provide excellent protection from the rain and snow while still allowing for good ventilation.
DIY Solution: I’ve built a simple firewood shed using reclaimed lumber and corrugated metal roofing. It’s not fancy, but it keeps my firewood dry and well-ventilated. The cost was minimal, and the peace of mind is priceless.
Strategic Recommendation: Invest in a high-quality, breathable firewood cover. These covers are designed to repel water while still allowing air to circulate. They’re a bit more expensive than standard tarps, but they’re well worth the investment.

3. Timing is Everything: When to Cut and Split

The timing of your firewood preparation can have a significant impact on its drying time and susceptibility to mould.

Cut in Late Winter or Early Spring: The best time to cut firewood is in late winter or early spring, after the trees have gone dormant. At this time, the sap content of the wood is lower, which means it will dry faster.
Split Immediately: Once you’ve cut the wood, split it as soon as possible. Splitting exposes more surface area to the air, which speeds up the drying process.
Don’t Delay: Letting logs sit around unsplit for extended periods can lead to fungal growth and insect infestation.
The “Green Wood” Advantage: While it might seem counterintuitive, green wood (freshly cut wood) is actually easier to split than seasoned wood. The higher moisture content makes the wood more pliable.
Case Study: A research project at the University of Minnesota found that firewood cut and split in the spring dried significantly faster than firewood cut and split in the fall. The spring-cut wood reached a moisture content of 20% (the ideal level for burning) in about six months, while the fall-cut wood took nearly a year.
Troubleshooting: If you’re struggling to split green wood, try using a hydraulic log splitter. These machines make quick work of even the toughest logs.
Actionable Tip: If you can’t cut and split your firewood in the spring, aim to do it as early as possible in the summer. The longer you wait, the less time the wood will have to dry before winter.

4. Wood Species Matters: Choosing the Right Wood for the Job

Not all firewood is created equal. Different wood species have different properties that affect their heating value, drying time, and susceptibility to mould.

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods (like oak, maple, and ash) are generally denser and have a higher heating value than softwoods (like pine, fir, and spruce). They also tend to be more resistant to decay.
Density is Key: The denser the wood, the more heat it will produce when burned.
Avoid Problematic Species: Some wood species, like poplar and willow, are highly susceptible to decay and should be avoided for firewood.
Oak: The King of Firewood: Oak is a popular choice for firewood because it’s dense, burns slowly, and produces a lot of heat. However, it can take longer to dry than other species.
Ash: A Good All-Around Choice: Ash is another excellent firewood choice. It’s relatively easy to split, dries quickly, and burns cleanly.
Birch: Aromatic and Fast-Burning: Birch is a good option for kindling and starting fires. It has a distinctive aroma and burns quickly.
Pine: Use with Caution: Pine can be used for firewood, but it burns quickly and produces a lot of smoke. It’s best used for outdoor fires.
Data Point: According to the U.S. Forest Service, oak has a heating value of approximately 27 million BTUs per cord, while pine has a heating value of approximately 20 million BTUs per cord.
Original Research: I conducted a small-scale experiment comparing the drying rates of oak and ash firewood. I cut and split equal amounts of each species and stacked them side-by-side. After six months, the ash had a significantly lower moisture content than the oak.
Cost Considerations: Hardwoods are generally more expensive than softwoods. However, the higher heating value of hardwoods means you’ll need less wood to produce the same amount of heat.

5. Moisture is the Enemy: Measuring and Monitoring Moisture Content

The key to preventing mould growth and ensuring efficient burning is to dry your firewood to the proper moisture content.

Target Moisture Content: The ideal moisture content for firewood is around 20%. At this level, the wood will burn cleanly and efficiently, producing maximum heat.
Use a Moisture Meter: The most accurate way to measure moisture content is to use a moisture meter. These inexpensive devices can be purchased at most hardware stores.
How to Use a Moisture Meter: Simply insert the probes of the moisture meter into a freshly split piece of wood. The meter will display the moisture content as a percentage.
The “Soap Bubble” Test: If you don’t have a moisture meter, you can try the “soap bubble” test. Apply a soapy solution to the end of a log. If the wood is dry enough, the soap will bubble.
The “Crack” Test: Dry firewood will often have cracks in the end grain. This is a good indication that the wood is drying properly.
Monitoring Your Stack: Regularly check the moisture content of your firewood stack. This will help you track the drying process and identify any potential problems.
Case Study: A firewood producer in Vermont used a combination of moisture meters and weather data to optimize their drying process. They were able to consistently produce firewood with a moisture content of 20% or less, which resulted in increased sales and customer satisfaction.
Technical Requirements: For accurate moisture readings, make sure your moisture meter is properly calibrated. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for calibration.
Actionable Tip: Invest in a good quality moisture meter. It’s an essential tool for anyone who burns firewood.

Bonus Tip: The Power of Sunlight

While I mentioned the importance of airflow, don’t underestimate the power of direct sunlight. Sunlight helps to evaporate moisture from the wood and inhibits mould growth. If possible, stack your firewood in a sunny location. Just be mindful of the potential for the wood to dry out too quickly and crack.

Troubleshooting: What to Do if You Find Orange Mould

Okay, so you’ve followed all my advice, but you still find some orange mould on your firewood. Don’t panic! Here’s what to do:

Identify the Extent of the Problem: Is the mould just on the surface, or has it penetrated deep into the wood?
Remove Affected Wood: If the mould is only on the surface, you can try brushing it off with a stiff brush. However, if the mould has penetrated deep into the wood, it’s best to remove the affected pieces from your stack.
Improve Airflow: Make sure your firewood stack is properly ventilated. Increase the spacing between rows and elevate the stack off the ground.
Consider a Fungicide (Use with Caution): In severe cases, you may need to consider using a fungicide to treat the affected wood. However, use fungicides with caution, as they can be harmful to the environment and to your health. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. I personally avoid this if possible.
Burn the Affected Wood (Outdoors): If you’re concerned about burning mouldy wood indoors, you can burn it outdoors in a campfire or fire pit. Just be aware that it may produce more smoke than dry wood.
Prevention is Key: Once you’ve dealt with the mould, take steps to prevent it from recurring. Improve your stacking techniques, ensure adequate ventilation, and monitor the moisture content of your firewood.
Common Pitfalls: Don’t ignore the problem! Mould will only get worse over time. And don’t try to burn heavily mouldy wood indoors. It will produce a lot of smoke and can be a fire hazard.

Tool Selection: Chainsaws vs. Axes (and Everything in Between)

Now, let’s talk about the tools you’ll need to prepare your firewood. The right tools can make the job much easier and safer.

Chainsaws: Chainsaws are essential for felling trees and cutting logs into manageable lengths.
- Types of Chainsaws: There are several types of chainsaws, including gas-powered, electric, and battery-powered models.
- Gas-Powered Chainsaws: Gas-powered chainsaws are the most powerful and versatile option. They’re ideal for felling large trees and cutting thick logs.
- Electric Chainsaws: Electric chainsaws are quieter and easier to maintain than gas-powered models. They’re a good choice for smaller jobs and for users who are concerned about noise and emissions.
- Battery-Powered Chainsaws: Battery-powered chainsaws are becoming increasingly popular. They offer the convenience of electric chainsaws with the portability of gas-powered models.
- Chainsaw Safety: Chainsaw safety is paramount. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. And never operate a chainsaw if you’re tired or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
- Technical Specifications: Chainsaw bar lengths typically range from 12 to 20 inches. Choose a bar length that’s appropriate for the size of the trees you’ll be cutting.
- Budgeting Considerations: Chainsaws can range in price from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars. Choose a model that fits your budget and your needs.
Axes: Axes are used for splitting logs.
- Types of Axes: There are several types of axes, including splitting axes, felling axes, and mauls.
- Splitting Axes: Splitting axes are designed specifically for splitting logs. They have a wide, wedge-shaped head that helps to separate the wood fibers.
- Felling Axes: Felling axes are used for felling trees. They have a narrower, sharper head than splitting axes.
- Mauls: Mauls are heavy, blunt-headed tools that are used for splitting large, tough logs.
- Axe Safety: Axe safety is also important. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection and gloves. And never swing an axe if you’re tired or distracted.
- Personalized Story: I remember one time I was splitting wood with a dull axe. I was struggling to split even small logs, and I was getting increasingly frustrated. Finally, I decided to sharpen the axe. The difference was remarkable. The axe sliced through the wood with ease, and the job became much easier and safer.
- Actionable Tip: Keep your axes sharp. A sharp axe is safer and more efficient than a dull axe.
Log Splitters: Log splitters are hydraulic machines that are used to split logs.
- Types of Log Splitters: There are two main types of log splitters: hydraulic log splitters and manual log splitters.
- Hydraulic Log Splitters: Hydraulic log splitters are powered by a hydraulic pump. They can split even the toughest logs with ease.
- Manual Log Splitters: Manual log splitters are powered by hand. They’re less expensive than hydraulic log splitters, but they require more physical effort.
- Log Splitter Safety: Log splitter safety is important. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. And never operate a log splitter if you’re tired or distracted.
- Limitations: Log splitters can be expensive and require regular maintenance.
Other Essential Tools: In addition to chainsaws, axes, and log splitters, you’ll also need a few other essential tools, including:
- Measuring Tape: For measuring logs and firewood.
- Wedges: For splitting tough logs.
- Sledgehammer: For driving wedges.
- Gloves: For protecting your hands.
- Eye Protection: For protecting your eyes.
- Hearing Protection: For protecting your ears.
- First Aid Kit: For treating minor injuries.

Costs, Budgeting, and Resource Management

Firewood preparation can be a cost-effective way to heat your home, but it’s important to factor in all the costs involved.

Equipment Costs: The cost of chainsaws, axes, log splitters, and other essential tools can add up quickly.
Fuel Costs: If you’re using a gas-powered chainsaw or log splitter, you’ll need to factor in the cost of fuel.
Maintenance Costs: Chainsaws, axes, and log splitters require regular maintenance, which can include sharpening, lubrication, and repairs.
Labor Costs: If you’re hiring someone to cut and split your firewood, you’ll need to factor in the cost of labor.
Transportation Costs: If you’re transporting firewood from a remote location, you’ll need to factor in the cost of transportation.
Resource Management: It’s important to manage your resources wisely. Don’t cut down more trees than you need, and always practice sustainable forestry practices.
Budgeting Tips: Create a budget for your firewood preparation project and stick to it. Look for deals on equipment and supplies. And consider bartering with friends or neighbors for labor or equipment.
Strategic Recommendations: Invest in high-quality tools that will last for many years. This will save you money in the long run. And consider renting equipment instead of buying it, especially if you only need it for occasional use.

Next Steps and Additional Resources

So, you’ve got the knowledge, now it’s time to put it into action! Here are some next steps and additional resources to help you on your firewood journey:

Find a Reputable Supplier: If you’re buying firewood, find a reputable supplier who sells seasoned wood.
Join a Local Firewood Group: Connect with other firewood enthusiasts in your area. They can offer advice, tips, and even help with your projects.
Take a Chainsaw Safety Course: If you’re using a chainsaw, take a chainsaw safety course. This will teach you how to operate a chainsaw safely and efficiently.
Consult with a Forester: If you’re cutting down trees on your property, consult with a forester. They can help you manage your forest sustainably.
Check Local Regulations: Check your local regulations regarding firewood cutting and burning.
Online Resources: There are many online resources available on firewood preparation, including websites, forums, and videos.

Suppliers of Logging Tools and Drying Equipment Rental Services:

Northern Tool + Equipment: A wide variety of logging tools, chainsaws, and log splitters.
Tractor Supply Co.: Similar to Northern Tool, with a focus on rural and agricultural equipment.
Local Equipment Rental Companies: Search online for equipment rental companies in your area. They often rent out log splitters and other firewood preparation tools.
Stihl and Husqvarna Dealers: These are the two leading chainsaw manufacturers, and their dealers offer a wide range of chainsaws and accessories.
Amazon and Online Retailers: A convenient option for purchasing smaller tools and supplies.

Preparing firewood is a rewarding and satisfying experience. It’s a way to connect with nature, get some exercise, and provide warmth for your home. By following my pro tips, you can ensure that your firewood is safe, efficient, and free of that pesky orange mould. Now get out there and start stacking! And remember, safety first!