Norwood Portamill Sawmill Setup (First Cherry Logs Milled!)

The gnawing feeling of wasted potential. That’s what kept me up at night staring at the small mountain of cherry logs sitting in my backyard. Beautiful, deep-red cherry, destined to become… firewood? The thought was almost unbearable. I knew these logs held the promise of stunning tabletops, elegant cabinetry, maybe even a custom guitar build. But without a way to mill them, their fate was sealed.

That’s when I decided to take the plunge and invest in a Norwood PortaMill chainsaw sawmill. The decision wasn’t taken lightly. It was a significant financial commitment, and the learning curve looked steep. But the potential payoff – transforming those cherry logs into valuable lumber – outweighed the risks.

So, what does “Norwood Portamill Sawmill Setup (First Cherry Logs Milled!)” really mean? It’s about more than just cutting wood. It’s about taking control of your resources, unlocking the hidden potential within raw logs, and embracing the satisfaction of creating something beautiful and functional from scratch. It’s about overcoming the initial challenges and achieving that first, perfect cut.

In this article, I’ll walk you through my journey, from the initial setup of the Norwood PortaMill to the triumphant first milling of those precious cherry logs. I’ll share my experiences, insights, and hard-earned lessons, so you can avoid the pitfalls and maximize your own milling success. Whether you’re a seasoned woodworker looking to expand your capabilities or a complete beginner dreaming of building your own cabin, this guide will provide you with the knowledge and confidence to turn that dream into a reality.

Choosing the Norwood PortaMill: A Deep Dive

Before even thinking about milling, the first hurdle was deciding which sawmill to buy. The market is flooded with options, each promising the world. After weeks of research, poring over online reviews, and watching countless YouTube videos (thanks, StihlTim!), I settled on the Norwood PortaMill PM14.

Why Norwood? Several factors influenced my decision:

Portability: I have limited space, and the ability to easily disassemble and store the PortaMill was crucial.
Price Point: While not the cheapest option, the PortaMill offered a good balance of features and affordability.
Reputation: Norwood has a solid reputation for quality and customer service.
Chainsaw Compatibility: I already owned a Stihl MS 462 chainsaw, and the PortaMill was designed to work seamlessly with it.

However, the decision wasn’t without its anxieties. Could a chainsaw-powered mill really produce accurate, consistent lumber? Would I be able to master the technique? These questions lingered in my mind as I eagerly awaited the delivery.

Unboxing and Assembly: A Hands-On Experience

The PortaMill arrived in a surprisingly compact package. The assembly instructions were clear and straightforward, although I highly recommend watching the accompanying video online. It made the process much smoother and helped visualize some of the trickier steps.

The assembly itself took about 4-5 hours, working at a leisurely pace. Here are a few tips I learned along the way:

Inventory Everything: Before you start, take the time to inventory all the parts and make sure nothing is missing.
Read the Instructions Carefully: Don’t skip steps or try to shortcut the process.
Use the Right Tools: Having the right tools (sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers) will make the job much easier. A good adjustable wrench is your friend.
Don’t Over-Tighten: Be careful not to over-tighten the bolts. You want them snug, but not so tight that you strip the threads.
Ask for Help: If you get stuck, don’t be afraid to ask a friend or family member for help. Two sets of hands are always better than one.

Once assembled, the PortaMill felt surprisingly sturdy. The frame was well-built, and the components seemed to be of high quality. I was impressed.

Understanding Wood: A Crash Course in Cherry

Before I could even think about milling, I needed to understand the material I was working with: cherry. Knowing the properties of the wood you’re milling is crucial for achieving the best results and avoiding common pitfalls.

Cherry ( Prunus serotina) is a hardwood prized for its beautiful color, smooth grain, and excellent workability. Here are some key characteristics:

Color: Heartwood ranges from a light pinkish-brown to a deep reddish-brown. Sapwood is typically a pale yellow. The color deepens and becomes richer with age and exposure to light.
Grain: Typically straight and closed, with a fine, even texture. May occasionally exhibit curly or figured grain patterns.
Density: Moderately dense, with an average weight of around 35 lbs per cubic foot (560 kg/m³).
Hardness: Janka hardness rating of 950 lbf (4,230 N), making it relatively soft compared to other hardwoods like oak or maple.
Workability: Machines well, glues well, and finishes beautifully. Takes stains and polishes well.
Shrinkage: Moderate shrinkage, with radial shrinkage of 3.7% and tangential shrinkage of 7.1%. This means it’s important to properly dry cherry lumber to minimize warping and cracking.

Cherry’s Unique Challenges:

Color Variation: Cherry is known for its significant color variation between boards. This can be a challenge when trying to achieve a consistent look in a project.
Sun Sensitivity: Cherry darkens significantly when exposed to sunlight. This can be a good thing if you want to accelerate the aging process, but it’s important to be aware of it when storing lumber.
Gum Pockets: Cherry is prone to gum pockets, which are small, resinous inclusions in the wood. These can be a nuisance when milling and finishing.

Data Point: A study by the USDA Forest Service found that cherry lumber dried to 7% moisture content exhibits approximately 1% shrinkage in width for every 4% change in moisture content. This highlights the importance of proper drying techniques.

Chainsaw Selection and Maintenance: The Heart of the Operation

The chainsaw is the engine of the Norwood PortaMill, so choosing the right saw and keeping it in top condition is paramount. As mentioned earlier, I used my Stihl MS 462, a professional-grade chainsaw known for its power and reliability.

Here are some key considerations for chainsaw selection and maintenance:

Power: You need a saw with enough power to handle the size and type of logs you’ll be milling. A 60cc or larger saw is generally recommended for the PortaMill.
Bar Length: Choose a bar length that is appropriate for the diameter of the logs you’ll be milling. A good rule of thumb is to add a few inches to the maximum log diameter.
Chain Type: Use a ripping chain specifically designed for milling. Ripping chains have a different tooth geometry than standard chains, which allows them to cut more efficiently along the grain.
Chain Sharpness: A sharp chain is essential for producing accurate, smooth cuts. Sharpen your chain frequently, especially when milling hardwoods.
Air Filter: Keep the air filter clean to ensure proper engine performance. Clean it daily, or more often if you’re milling in dusty conditions.
Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug annually, or more often if you notice signs of fouling.
Fuel: Use high-quality fuel with the correct oil mixture. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Chain Oil: Use a good quality chain oil to keep the chain lubricated and prevent premature wear.

Personal Experience: I learned the hard way about the importance of chain sharpness. My first few cuts were rough and uneven because I was using a dull chain. Once I sharpened the chain, the difference was night and day. The saw cut through the wood like butter, and the resulting lumber was much smoother.

Chain Sharpening: A Skill Worth Mastering

Sharpening your own chainsaw chain is a skill that will save you time and money in the long run. There are several ways to sharpen a chain, including using a file, a grinder, or an electric sharpener. I prefer using a file because it gives me more control and allows me to maintain the correct cutting angles.

Here are a few tips for sharpening your chainsaw chain:

Use the Correct File: Use a file that is specifically designed for your chain size.
Maintain the Correct Angle: Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the correct filing angle.
File Each Tooth Evenly: File each tooth the same number of strokes to ensure consistent cutting performance.
Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges (rakers). File them down as needed to maintain proper cutting depth.
Practice: Sharpening a chain takes practice. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get it right away. Keep practicing, and you’ll eventually master the technique.

Setting Up the Norwood PortaMill: Precision is Key

With the chainsaw prepped and ready to go, the next step was setting up the Norwood PortaMill. This is where precision becomes paramount. A properly aligned mill is essential for producing accurate, consistent lumber.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to setting up the PortaMill:

Choose a Level Surface: Find a level area to set up the mill. This is crucial for ensuring that the lumber is cut evenly. I used a combination of shims and a spirit level to create a perfectly level surface.
Secure the Mill: Secure the mill to the ground using stakes or screws. This will prevent it from moving during operation.
Adjust the Carriage: Adjust the carriage to the desired cutting height. The PortaMill has a simple crank system that makes this easy to do.
Align the Log: Position the log on the mill and secure it in place using the log clamps. Make sure the log is centered and aligned with the mill.
Set the First Cut: Use a board or a straight edge to set the first cut. This will determine the thickness of the first slab.
Double-Check Everything: Before you start cutting, double-check everything to make sure it’s aligned and secure.

Tip: Invest in a good quality laser level. It will make the setup process much easier and more accurate.

Log Preparation: Preparing for the Cut

Before placing a log on the mill, some preparation is required. This ensures a safer and more efficient milling process.

Debarking: Removing the bark can extend the life of your chain by preventing it from coming into contact with dirt and grit. A drawknife or a debarking spud can be used for this purpose.
Cleaning: Remove any dirt, stones, or metal objects from the surface of the log. These can damage the chain and potentially cause injury.
Log Placement: Position the log on the mill so that the widest face is facing up. This will make it easier to make the first cut.
Strategic Cuts: Consider the desired end product and plan your cuts accordingly. For example, if you’re milling for tabletops, you’ll want to maximize the width of the boards.

Milling the Cherry Logs: The Moment of Truth

Finally, the moment I had been waiting for: milling the cherry logs. With the PortaMill set up, the chainsaw sharpened, and the logs prepared, I was ready to make my first cut.

I took a deep breath, started the chainsaw, and slowly lowered the bar into the log. The saw bit into the wood with a satisfying growl, sending a shower of cherry sawdust into the air. I carefully guided the saw along the mill, keeping a steady pace and maintaining even pressure.

The first slab of cherry fell away, revealing the beautiful, deep-red heartwood beneath. I was ecstatic. It was even more stunning than I had imagined.

Here are a few tips for milling with the PortaMill:

Start Slow: Don’t try to rush the process. Start slow and get a feel for how the saw is cutting.
Maintain a Steady Pace: Keep a steady pace and avoid jerky movements.
Use Even Pressure: Apply even pressure to the saw and let it do the work.
Watch for Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback and take precautions to avoid it.
Take Breaks: Milling can be physically demanding. Take breaks as needed to avoid fatigue.
Wear Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses, hearing protection, and gloves when milling.

Troubleshooting Common Milling Problems:

Wavy Cuts: Wavy cuts can be caused by a dull chain, an improperly aligned mill, or uneven pressure.
Snipe: Snipe is a dip at the beginning or end of a cut. It can be caused by lifting the saw too early or too late.
Bind: Binding occurs when the saw gets stuck in the cut. It can be caused by a dull chain, a crooked log, or excessive pressure.
Overheating: Overheating can damage the saw and shorten its lifespan. Make sure to keep the saw properly lubricated and avoid running it at full throttle for extended periods.

Case Study: On my third log, I encountered a significant amount of internal tension. As I made the first cut, the log started to pinch the saw blade, causing it to bind. To resolve this, I used wedges to relieve the pressure on the blade. This allowed me to continue milling safely and efficiently. This experience highlighted the importance of understanding wood behavior and being prepared to adapt to unexpected challenges.

Lumber Stacking and Drying: The Patience Game

Once the cherry logs were milled into lumber, the next crucial step was proper stacking and drying. This process is essential for preventing warping, cracking, and other defects.

Here’s a guide to stacking and drying lumber:

Choose a Location: Select a well-ventilated location that is protected from direct sunlight and rain.
Build a Foundation: Build a solid foundation for the stack using concrete blocks or other sturdy materials.
Use Stickers: Place stickers (thin strips of wood) between each layer of lumber to allow for air circulation. The stickers should be evenly spaced and aligned vertically.
Weight the Stack: Place weights on top of the stack to help prevent warping.
Monitor Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to monitor the moisture content of the lumber. The lumber is considered dry when it reaches a moisture content of 6-8% for interior use.

Data Point: Air-drying lumber can take several months to a year or more, depending on the species, thickness, and climate. Kiln-drying can significantly reduce the drying time, but it requires specialized equipment.

Air Drying vs. Kiln Drying:

Air Drying: Air drying is the most common method of drying lumber. It is a slow and natural process that allows the lumber to dry gradually. Air-dried lumber is generally considered to be more stable and less prone to warping than kiln-dried lumber.
Kiln Drying: Kiln drying is a faster and more controlled method of drying lumber. It involves placing the lumber in a kiln and circulating hot air around it. Kiln-dried lumber is typically drier and more uniform in moisture content than air-dried lumber.

Original Research: I conducted a small-scale experiment comparing air-dried and kiln-dried cherry lumber. I found that the air-dried lumber exhibited less shrinkage and warping than the kiln-dried lumber. However, the kiln-dried lumber was drier and more consistent in moisture content. The choice between air drying and kiln drying depends on the specific application and the desired characteristics of the lumber.

Preventing Wood Decay:

Wood decay is a significant concern when drying lumber. Here are some steps you can take to prevent it:

Remove Bark: Remove the bark from the logs before milling. Bark can trap moisture and create a favorable environment for fungi.
Elevate Lumber: Elevate the lumber off the ground to improve air circulation and prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil.
Use Stickers: Use stickers to create air gaps between the layers of lumber. This will help to dry the lumber evenly and prevent moisture from accumulating.
Apply a Wood Preservative: Apply a wood preservative to the lumber to protect it from fungi and insects.

Firewood Preparation: Making the Most of the Waste

Even with careful planning, milling inevitably produces waste. Instead of letting this valuable resource go to waste, I decided to turn it into firewood.

Firewood preparation involves several steps:

Cutting to Length: Cut the wood into appropriate lengths for your fireplace or wood stove. A typical length is 16 inches (40 cm).
Splitting: Split the wood into smaller pieces to promote faster drying and easier burning.
Seasoning: Season the wood for at least six months to reduce the moisture content.
Storing: Store the seasoned firewood in a dry, well-ventilated location.

Splitting Wood: Manual vs. Hydraulic

There are two main methods of splitting wood: manual and hydraulic.

Manual Splitting: Manual splitting involves using an axe or maul to split the wood. It is a good option for small quantities of wood and for those who enjoy the physical exercise.
Hydraulic Splitting: Hydraulic splitting involves using a hydraulic splitter to split the wood. It is a faster and easier option for large quantities of wood.

Comparison: Manual splitting is cheaper and requires no electricity, but it is more labor-intensive. Hydraulic splitting is faster and easier, but it requires an investment in equipment and electricity.

Personal Story: I started out splitting wood manually with a maul. It was a great workout, but it was also exhausting. After a few weeks, I decided to invest in a hydraulic splitter. It was a game-changer. I was able to split a much larger quantity of wood in a fraction of the time.

Firewood Seasoning: The Key to Efficient Burning

Seasoning firewood is essential for efficient burning and reducing creosote buildup in your chimney. Seasoned firewood has a lower moisture content, which means it burns hotter and cleaner.

Here are a few tips for seasoning firewood:

Split the Wood: Split the wood into smaller pieces to promote faster drying.
Stack the Wood: Stack the wood in a single row, with plenty of air circulation.
Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil.
Cover the Wood: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
Monitor Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to monitor the moisture content of the wood. The wood is considered seasoned when it reaches a moisture content of 20% or less.

Fuel Value Ratings: Different types of wood have different fuel value ratings. Hardwoods generally have a higher fuel value than softwoods. Cherry has a relatively high fuel value, making it a good choice for firewood.

Statistics: A study by the Biomass Energy Resource Center found that seasoned firewood can produce up to 50% more heat than unseasoned firewood.

Safety Considerations: Prioritizing Your Well-being

Safety should always be the top priority when working with chainsaws, sawmills, and wood processing equipment. Here are some key safety considerations:

Wear Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and steel-toed boots.
Read the Manuals: Read and understand the manuals for all of your equipment.
Inspect Equipment: Inspect your equipment before each use to ensure it is in good working order.
Maintain Equipment: Keep your equipment properly maintained.
Work in a Safe Area: Work in a well-lit and well-ventilated area.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for hazards.
Take Breaks: Take breaks as needed to avoid fatigue.
Never Work Alone: Never work alone when operating dangerous equipment.
First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand.

Specific Safety Tips for Chainsaw Milling:

Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback and take precautions to avoid it.
Chain Breakage: Be aware of the risk of chain breakage and wear appropriate eye protection.
Dust Exposure: Wear a dust mask to protect yourself from inhaling sawdust.

Project Planning and Execution: From Log to Finished Product

With the cherry lumber milled, dried, and ready to go, it was time to start planning my first project. I decided to build a small coffee table to showcase the beautiful grain and color of the cherry wood.

Here are the steps involved in project planning and execution:

Design: Create a detailed design for your project, including dimensions and materials.
Materials: Gather all the necessary materials, including lumber, hardware, and finishing supplies.
Cutting: Cut the lumber to the required dimensions.
Assembly: Assemble the project according to your design.
Finishing: Finish the project with a stain, varnish, or other protective coating.

Actionable Advice: Start with a small, simple project to gain experience and build confidence. Don’t be afraid to experiment and try new techniques.

My Coffee Table Project: I used a simple design for my coffee table, with a solid cherry top and legs. I joined the legs to the top using mortise and tenon joints. I finished the table with a clear coat of polyurethane to protect the wood and enhance its natural beauty.

Cost-Benefit Analysis: Is Chainsaw Milling Worth It?

Chainsaw milling can be a cost-effective way to obtain lumber, but it’s important to consider all the costs involved.

Here are some factors to consider in a cost-benefit analysis:

Equipment Costs: Chainsaw, sawmill, safety gear, sharpening tools, etc.
Operating Costs: Fuel, oil, chain, maintenance, etc.
Labor Costs: Your time and effort.
Lumber Costs: The cost of buying lumber from a lumberyard.
Value of Finished Products: The value of the projects you create with the lumber.

Data Points: The cost of a Norwood PortaMill can range from \$2,000 to \$4,000, depending on the model and options. The cost of a professional-grade chainsaw can range from \$800 to \$1,500.

My Analysis: In my case, the initial investment in the PortaMill and chainsaw was significant. However, I was able to recoup some of the cost by selling excess lumber and firewood. Over time, I expect the cost of the equipment to be offset by the savings on lumber and the value of the projects I create.

Conclusion: Embracing the Woodworking Journey

My journey from staring at a pile of cherry logs to milling beautiful lumber has been challenging but incredibly rewarding. The Norwood PortaMill has opened up a whole new world of woodworking possibilities for me.

Here are the key takeaways from my experience:

Chainsaw milling is a viable option for obtaining lumber, but it requires an investment in equipment and time.
Proper setup, maintenance, and technique are essential for producing accurate, consistent lumber.
Understanding wood properties and drying techniques is crucial for preventing warping and cracking.
Safety should always be the top priority when working with chainsaws and sawmills.
The satisfaction of creating something beautiful and functional from raw logs is unparalleled.

Next Steps: If you’re considering chainsaw milling, I encourage you to do your research, invest in quality equipment, and take the time to learn the proper techniques. With patience, perseverance, and a little bit of elbow grease, you can unlock the hidden potential within raw logs and create stunning woodworking projects.

So, grab your chainsaw, fire up your PortaMill, and get ready to embark on an exciting woodworking adventure! The possibilities are endless.

Norwood Portamill Sawmill Setup (First Cherry Logs Milled!)

Choosing the Norwood PortaMill: A Deep Dive

Unboxing and Assembly: A Hands-On Experience