Norwood PM14 Chainsaw Mill Guide (5 Pro Tips for Cherry Logs)

The chainsaw milling world is experiencing a renaissance. What was once a niche craft, practiced by a few dedicated woodworkers, is now gaining traction among hobbyists, homesteaders, and even small-scale lumber businesses. This surge in popularity is fueled by a few key factors: the rising cost of commercially sawn lumber, the desire for uniquely figured wood, and the empowerment afforded by portable milling solutions like the Norwood PM14 chainsaw mill. I’ve seen this shift firsthand, witnessing the transformation of fallen trees into beautiful lumber with my own mill. And believe me, there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of turning a cherry log, destined for the firewood pile, into stunning furniture-grade boards.

Norwood PM14 Chainsaw Mill Guide: 5 Pro Tips for Cherry Logs

1. Cherry Log Selection: Beyond the Bark

Cherry is a prized hardwood, known for its rich color, smooth grain, and excellent workability. However, not all cherry logs are created equal. Careful log selection is the foundation of a successful milling project. I’ve learned that taking the time to assess a log before even firing up the chainsaw can save you hours of frustration and yield significantly better results.

a. Identifying Cherry:

• Bark: Mature cherry trees have a distinctive reddish-brown bark with horizontal lenticels (small, corky pores). Young trees have a smooth, shiny bark. Be careful not to confuse cherry with other trees that have similar bark patterns.
• Leaves: Cherry leaves are oval-shaped, with finely serrated edges. They are typically a dark green color.
• Smell: A broken twig or a freshly cut surface of cherry wood will have a characteristic almond-like scent.

b. Assessing Log Quality:

• Diameter: The PM14 has a maximum log diameter capacity. Ensure your cherry log falls within this range. Larger logs require more powerful saws and potentially more complex milling techniques. I find that logs between 12″ and 14″ in diameter are ideal for the PM14, offering a good balance between yield and manageability.
• Straightness: A straight log is always preferable. Excessive bends or curves will result in more waste and potentially unstable lumber. Use your eye to sight down the log. Minor imperfections can be worked around, but avoid logs with severe kinks.
• Knots: Knots are unavoidable, but their size and frequency should be considered. Large, numerous knots can significantly weaken the lumber and make it more difficult to work with. Look for logs with fewer, smaller knots, especially in the areas where you plan to mill your best boards. Live knots (knots that are still firmly attached to the surrounding wood) are generally preferable to dead knots (loose or decayed knots).
• Defects: Look for signs of rot, insect damage, or other defects. Avoid logs with large areas of decay or extensive insect galleries. A healthy log will have a consistent color and texture throughout. Check for “shake” or “ring separation” at the ends of the log. This indicates internal stress and can lead to cracking and warping during drying.
• Age: While you can mill cherry logs of varying ages, older, more mature trees often have richer color and tighter grain. However, older trees may also be more prone to internal defects.

c. Data-Backed Insights:

• Moisture Content: Freshly felled cherry can have a moisture content of 60-80%. This is far too high for milling. Ideally, you want the log to air dry for several months before milling. Aim for a moisture content of 25-30% before milling to minimize warping and cracking during the final drying process. I use a moisture meter to accurately assess the moisture content of the log before milling.
• Log End Sealing: After felling, immediately seal the ends of the log with a log sealant. This prevents moisture from escaping too quickly, which can lead to end checking (cracking). I’ve had great success with Anchorseal.
• Optimal Felling Time: Felling cherry in the late fall or winter, when the tree is dormant, can result in lumber with less sapwood and a more uniform color.

d. Personal Experience:

I once milled a beautiful cherry log that I had left lying in the woods for too long without sealing the ends. The resulting lumber had significant end checking, resulting in a substantial amount of wasted material. This experience taught me the importance of proper log storage and end sealing.

e. Specifications:

2. Chainsaw and Mill Setup: Precision is Key

The Norwood PM14 is a robust and reliable chainsaw mill, but like any precision tool, it requires proper setup and calibration to achieve optimal performance. A poorly set up mill can lead to inaccurate cuts, wasted lumber, and even damage to your equipment.

a. Chainsaw Selection and Preparation:

• Power: A powerful chainsaw is essential for milling cherry logs. I recommend a chainsaw with at least 70cc engine displacement. A larger engine will provide more torque and allow you to mill through the dense cherry wood with greater ease.
• Bar Length: Choose a bar length that is at least 2 inches longer than the diameter of the log you are milling. This will ensure that the bar can fully penetrate the log.
• Chain Type: Use a ripping chain specifically designed for milling. Ripping chains have a different tooth geometry than standard crosscut chains, allowing them to cut along the grain more efficiently. I prefer a full chisel ripping chain for cherry, as it provides a smooth, clean cut.
• Chain Sharpness: A sharp chain is critical for efficient milling. A dull chain will cause the saw to bog down and produce rough, uneven cuts. Sharpen your chain frequently, especially when milling hardwoods like cherry. I sharpen my chain after every few cuts, or whenever I notice a decrease in performance.
• Oiling: Proper chain lubrication is essential for preventing overheating and extending the life of your chain and bar. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically formulated for chainsaw milling. I check the oil level frequently and refill as needed.

b. Norwood PM14 Assembly and Calibration:

• Assembly: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully when assembling your Norwood PM14. Ensure that all bolts and screws are properly tightened.
• Leveling: The mill must be perfectly level to produce accurate cuts. Use a spirit level to check the level of the mill on both the horizontal and vertical axes. Adjust the leveling feet as needed.
• Rail Alignment: The guide rails must be perfectly parallel to each other. Use a straight edge to check the alignment of the rails. Adjust the rail supports as needed.
• Carriage Adjustment: The carriage must move smoothly and freely along the rails. Adjust the carriage rollers as needed to ensure smooth movement.
• Depth of Cut Adjustment: The depth of cut adjustment mechanism must be accurate and reliable. Calibrate the depth of cut scale using a ruler or caliper.

c. Data-Backed Insights:

• Chain Speed: Optimal chain speed for milling cherry is typically between 4,000 and 5,000 feet per minute (FPM).
• Feed Rate: The feed rate (the speed at which you advance the chainsaw through the log) is critical for producing smooth, accurate cuts. Too slow, and you risk burning the wood. Too fast, and you risk bogging down the saw. Experiment to find the optimal feed rate for your chainsaw and the specific cherry log you are milling.
• Bar Oil Consumption: Chainsaw milling consumes significantly more bar oil than standard crosscutting. Expect to use at least twice as much bar oil when milling.

d. Personal Experience:

I once spent an entire day milling cherry logs with a dull chain. The resulting lumber was rough and uneven, and I wasted a significant amount of time and effort. I learned the hard way that a sharp chain is essential for efficient and accurate milling.

e. Specifications:

3. Milling Techniques: Mastering the First Cut

The first cut is arguably the most important cut in chainsaw milling. It establishes the reference surface for all subsequent cuts. A poorly executed first cut can throw off the entire milling process and result in inaccurate lumber.

a. Establishing a Flat Reference Surface:

• Ladder Method: The ladder method is a common technique for establishing a flat reference surface on an uneven log. This involves attaching two parallel ladders or planks to the top of the log, creating a flat surface for the mill to ride on.
• Edge Guide: An edge guide is a simple but effective tool for creating a straight, flat edge on the log. This involves attaching a straight board to the side of the log and using it as a guide for the mill.
• Self-Referencing: For smaller, straighter logs, you may be able to use the log itself as a reference surface. This involves making a series of shallow cuts along the top of the log, gradually creating a flat surface.

b. Milling the First Slab:

• Depth of Cut: Set the depth of cut to the desired thickness of the first slab. I typically start with a thicker slab (1-2 inches) to remove any bark or imperfections on the surface of the log.
• Feed Rate: Maintain a consistent feed rate throughout the cut. Avoid pushing the saw too hard, as this can cause it to bog down and produce a rough cut. Let the saw do the work.
• Overlapping Cuts: If the log is wider than the cutting capacity of your chainsaw, you may need to make overlapping cuts to remove the entire slab. Ensure that the overlapping cuts are smooth and seamless.

c. Data-Backed Insights:

• Kerf Width: The kerf width (the width of the cut made by the chainsaw) will affect the final dimensions of your lumber. Measure the kerf width of your chain and factor it into your calculations when setting the depth of cut.
• Grain Orientation: Consider the grain orientation when milling the first slab. Milling parallel to the grain will produce stronger, more stable lumber.

d. Personal Experience:

I once tried to mill a cherry log without properly establishing a flat reference surface. The resulting lumber was severely warped and unusable. This experience taught me the importance of taking the time to create a solid foundation for the milling process.

e. Specifications:

4. Drying and Storage: Preventing Warping and Cracking

Proper drying and storage are crucial for preventing warping, cracking, and other defects in your cherry lumber. Cherry is particularly prone to movement during drying, so it’s essential to follow best practices to ensure that your lumber remains stable and usable.

a. Air Drying:

• Stacking: Stack the lumber on stickers (thin strips of wood) to allow for air circulation. Place the stickers every 12-18 inches. Ensure that the stickers are aligned vertically to prevent warping.
• Spacing: Leave a gap between each board to allow for air circulation.
• Weighting: Place weights on top of the stack to prevent warping. Concrete blocks or other heavy objects work well.
• Location: Store the lumber in a well-ventilated area, protected from direct sunlight and rain.
• Drying Time: Air drying typically takes several months to a year, depending on the thickness of the lumber and the climate.

b. Kiln Drying:

• Kiln Type: Choose a kiln that is appropriate for drying hardwoods like cherry. Dehumidification kilns are generally preferred, as they provide more control over the drying process.
• Drying Schedule: Follow a specific drying schedule for cherry. This schedule will specify the temperature and humidity levels at each stage of the drying process.
• Monitoring: Monitor the moisture content of the lumber throughout the drying process. Use a moisture meter to track the progress.

c. Data-Backed Insights:

• Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC): EMC is the moisture content at which the wood is in equilibrium with the surrounding air. The EMC will vary depending on the climate. In most areas of the US, the EMC is around 6-8%.
• Drying Rate: Cherry typically dries at a rate of about 1 inch per year.
• Warping and Cracking: Excessive drying rates can lead to warping and cracking. Control the drying rate to minimize these defects.

d. Personal Experience:

I once kiln-dried a batch of cherry lumber too quickly, resulting in significant warping and cracking. This experience taught me the importance of following a proper drying schedule and monitoring the moisture content of the lumber.

e. Specifications:

5. Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Your Equipment

Chainsaw milling is a potentially dangerous activity. It’s essential to prioritize safety at all times to protect yourself and your equipment.

a. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):

• Helmet: Wear a helmet with a face shield and ear protection.
• Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or goggles in addition to the face shield.
• Hearing Protection: Wear earplugs or earmuffs.
• Gloves: Wear heavy-duty work gloves.
• Chainsaw Chaps: Wear chainsaw chaps to protect your legs.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Wear steel-toed boots.

b. Safe Operating Procedures:

• Read the Manual: Read and understand the operating manuals for your chainsaw and chainsaw mill.
• Inspect Equipment: Inspect your chainsaw and chainsaw mill before each use.
• Clear the Area: Clear the area around the log of any obstacles.
• Secure the Log: Secure the log to prevent it from rolling or shifting.
• Proper Stance: Maintain a stable stance and keep your feet firmly planted on the ground.
• Avoid Kickback: Be aware of the risk of chainsaw kickback and take steps to avoid it.
• Never Work Alone: Always work with a partner.
• Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.

c. Data-Backed Insights:

• Chainsaw Kickback Angle: The kickback angle of a chainsaw is typically around 45 degrees.
• Noise Levels: Chainsaws can produce noise levels of up to 120 decibels. Prolonged exposure to these noise levels can cause hearing damage.
• Vibration Levels: Chainsaws can also produce significant vibration levels. Prolonged exposure to these vibration levels can cause hand-arm vibration syndrome (HAVS).

d. Personal Experience:

I once had a close call when a piece of wood kicked back and struck my face shield. Fortunately, I was wearing proper PPE, and I was not injured. This experience reinforced the importance of wearing PPE at all times when chainsaw milling.

e. Specifications:

By following these five pro tips, you’ll be well on your way to successfully milling cherry logs with your Norwood PM14 chainsaw mill. Remember to prioritize safety, take your time, and enjoy the process. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of transforming a raw log into beautiful, usable lumber.

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