Non-Typical Whitetail Deer Wood Processing (5 Pro Logging Tips)

Why did the deer cross the road? To prove he wasn’t chicken! (Okay, maybe he was after some tasty acorns, but work with me here).

Alright folks, I’m here to talk about something near and dear to my heart: processing wood, especially when it involves a bit of the “non-typical.” Now, I’m not talking about taxidermy. I’m talking about taking those gnarly, oddly shaped logs – the ones that might even resemble a whitetail’s impressive rack – and turning them into something useful, be it firewood, lumber for a unique project, or even just kindling for the campfire.

For years, I’ve wrestled with logs of all shapes and sizes. I’ve seen everything from perfectly cylindrical pine destined for the mill to twisted oak that looked like it had a serious argument with gravity. And let me tell you, dealing with the “non-typical” requires a different approach. Forget those perfectly straight cuts you see in the lumberyard. Here, we’re talking about strategy, finesse, and a whole lot of respect for the wood.

I’m going to share five pro logging tips I’ve learned the hard way over the years – tips that will help you not just survive, but thrive when processing those challenging, non-typical whitetail deer-shaped logs. So, grab your safety glasses, sharpen your chainsaw, and let’s get to it!

1. Assessing the Beast: Understanding Wood Characteristics and Irregular Shapes

Before you even think about firing up the chainsaw, you need to understand what you’re dealing with. This isn’t just about identifying the species; it’s about reading the wood’s grain, identifying potential weaknesses, and understanding how the irregular shape will affect your cuts. This is where the art of wood processing truly begins.

Wood Species Identification: A Crash Course

First things first: know your wood. Different species have different properties. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory are denser and burn longer, making them excellent for firewood. They’re also prized for their strength and durability in woodworking projects. Softwoods like pine, fir, and cedar are lighter, easier to work with, and often used for construction and crafts.

Hardwoods: Generally denser, slower-growing, and more expensive. Look for tight grain patterns and heavier weight.
Softwoods: Lighter, faster-growing, and more readily available. Grain patterns are often more open and less dense.

Knowing the species will inform your cutting strategy. For example, oak tends to split more easily than maple, which is something to consider when bucking firewood.

Reading the Grain: Unlocking the Log’s Secrets

The grain of the wood is like a roadmap, telling you how the tree grew and where its stresses lie. Pay close attention to:

Knot Placement: Knots are where branches once grew, and they can significantly weaken the wood. Avoid cutting through large knots if possible, especially in hardwoods.
Grain Direction: The direction of the grain will influence how the wood splits and how easily it can be worked. Twisted or spiral grain can be particularly challenging.
Reaction Wood: This is wood that forms in response to stress, such as wind or leaning. It’s often denser and more brittle than regular wood and can cause binding during cutting.

Identifying Weaknesses: Spotting Potential Hazards

Look for signs of decay, cracks, or insect damage. These can weaken the wood and make it more prone to splitting or breaking during processing.

Decay: Soft, spongy wood is a clear sign of decay. Avoid using decayed wood for structural purposes.
Cracks: Cracks can propagate quickly during cutting, especially in dry wood. Consider using wedges to prevent them from spreading.
Insect Damage: Holes or tunnels in the wood indicate insect infestation. Treat the wood before using it to prevent further damage.

Case Study: The Twisted Oak Challenge

I once tackled a massive oak log that had a severe twist in its grain. It looked like a giant pretzel! Initially, I thought I could mill it into some interesting lumber, but the twist was so severe that it caused the wood to bind on the saw. After several frustrating attempts, I realized that the best approach was to split it into firewood. Even then, the twisted grain made splitting a challenge, requiring extra force and careful wedge placement. The moral of the story? Sometimes, the wood dictates the project, not the other way around.

Dealing with Irregular Shapes: A Practical Approach

Non-typical logs often present unique challenges due to their irregular shapes. Here’s how to approach them:

Stabilization: Use wedges or supports to stabilize the log before cutting. This will prevent it from rolling or shifting, which can be dangerous.
Strategic Cuts: Plan your cuts carefully, taking into account the shape of the log and the desired end product. Consider making multiple smaller cuts rather than one large cut.
Grain Orientation: Pay attention to the grain orientation and adjust your cutting angle accordingly. This will help prevent binding and splintering.

Data Point: According to the USDA Forest Service, wood strength can vary by as much as 50% depending on the species and grain orientation. Understanding these variations is crucial for safe and efficient wood processing.

2. Chainsaw Calibration and Maintenance: The Heart of the Operation

Your chainsaw is your most important tool. A dull, improperly calibrated saw is not only inefficient but also dangerous. Regular maintenance and proper calibration are essential for safe and efficient wood processing. I’ve seen too many people struggle with a dull chain, forcing the saw and risking kickback. It’s just not worth it.

Chain Sharpening: The Key to Efficient Cutting

A sharp chain is essential for smooth, efficient cutting. A dull chain will cause the saw to vibrate excessively, requiring more force and increasing the risk of kickback.

Frequency: Sharpen your chain every time you refuel or whenever you notice it’s not cutting as efficiently.
Technique: Use a chainsaw file or a chainsaw sharpener to maintain the correct cutting angle and depth.
Angle and Depth: Refer to your chainsaw’s manual for the recommended sharpening angle and depth for your specific chain type.

I prefer using a chainsaw file for sharpening because it allows me to fine-tune the cutting edges. However, a chainsaw sharpener can be a good option for beginners or those who want a faster and more consistent sharpening.

Bar Maintenance: Ensuring Smooth Operation

The chainsaw bar guides the chain and provides support during cutting. Proper bar maintenance is essential for smooth operation and preventing premature wear.

Cleaning: Clean the bar regularly with a wire brush to remove dirt and debris.
Lubrication: Lubricate the bar with chainsaw bar oil to reduce friction and prevent overheating.
Groove Cleaning: Clean the bar groove with a bar groove cleaner to remove sawdust and debris.
Bar Dressing: Use a bar dressing tool to remove burrs and sharp edges from the bar rails.

Carburetor Adjustment: Optimizing Engine Performance

The carburetor regulates the air-fuel mixture in the engine. Proper carburetor adjustment is essential for optimal engine performance and fuel efficiency.

Idle Speed: Adjust the idle speed so that the chain does not move when the engine is idling.
High-Speed Mixture: Adjust the high-speed mixture for optimal power and acceleration.
Low-Speed Mixture: Adjust the low-speed mixture for smooth idling and throttle response.

Caution: Carburetor adjustment should be performed by a qualified technician. Improper adjustment can damage the engine.

Tensioning the Chain: Achieving the Right Balance

Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. Too loose, and the chain can derail. Too tight, and it can overheat and break.

Check Tension Regularly: Check the chain tension before each use and adjust as needed.
Warm Engine Check: Check the tension with the engine warm, as the chain will expand as it heats up.
Proper Slack: The chain should have a slight amount of slack, allowing you to pull it away from the bar slightly.

Data Point: A properly tensioned chain can improve cutting efficiency by up to 20% and reduce the risk of kickback.

My “Chainsaw Whisperer” Moment

I remember one time when my chainsaw was running rough and wouldn’t idle properly. I tried everything I could think of – cleaning the air filter, replacing the spark plug, even adjusting the carburetor. Nothing seemed to work. Finally, I took it to a local mechanic who specialized in small engines. He listened to the engine for a few minutes, then made a tiny adjustment to the carburetor. Voila! The saw purred like a kitten. It turned out that a small piece of debris had lodged in the carburetor, causing the engine to run lean. The lesson? Sometimes, it takes a trained ear to diagnose a chainsaw’s ailments.

3. Mastering the Art of the Notch: Precision Cuts for Controlled Felling

The notch is a critical element of safe and controlled felling. It determines the direction the tree will fall and prevents it from kicking back onto the stump. A poorly executed notch can lead to unpredictable felling and serious injury.

Types of Notches: Choosing the Right Cut for the Job

There are several types of notches, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. The most common types include:

Conventional Notch (Open Face): This notch is easy to cut and provides good control over the direction of the fall. It consists of a horizontal cut and an angled cut that meet at a point.
Humboldt Notch: This notch is similar to the conventional notch, but the angled cut is made from the top down. It’s often used for larger trees.
Pencil Point Notch: This notch is used for trees that are leaning in the direction you want them to fall. It consists of two angled cuts that meet at a point.

Cutting the Notch: A Step-by-Step Guide

Determine the Felling Direction: Choose the direction you want the tree to fall, taking into account the lean of the tree, wind conditions, and obstacles.
Cut the Horizontal Cut: Make a horizontal cut into the tree, perpendicular to the felling direction. The depth of the cut should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
Cut the Angled Cut: Make an angled cut that meets the horizontal cut at a point. The angle of the cut should be about 45 degrees.
Remove the Wedge: Remove the wedge of wood created by the two cuts.

The Importance of the Hinge: Guiding the Fall

The hinge is the uncut portion of the tree that connects the stump to the falling tree. It acts as a guide, controlling the direction of the fall.

Hinge Width: The width of the hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
Hinge Placement: The hinge should be placed directly opposite the notch.
Hinge Integrity: Avoid cutting into the hinge, as this can weaken it and lead to unpredictable felling.

Case Study: The Leaning Pine Catastrophe (Almost!)

I once misjudged the lean of a pine tree and cut the notch incorrectly. As I made the back cut, the tree started to fall in the wrong direction – right towards my truck! Luckily, I had enough time to yell a warning and jump out of the way. The tree crashed down, missing the truck by inches. It was a close call, and a valuable lesson in the importance of accurate assessment and precise notching.

Advanced Notching Techniques: Adapting to Challenging Situations

Using Wedges: Use wedges to help guide the tree in the desired direction, especially when felling trees that are leaning or have a heavy crown.
Back Cut Placement: The back cut should be made slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch, leaving a hinge of the correct width.
Avoiding Barber Chairs: A “barber chair” occurs when the tree splits up the back before falling, creating a dangerous situation. To avoid this, make sure the back cut is level and the hinge is of the correct width.

Data Point: Studies have shown that improper notching is a contributing factor in up to 50% of logging accidents. Mastering the art of the notch is crucial for safe and efficient felling.

4. Splitting Strategies: Conquering the Toughest Logs

Splitting wood can be a back-breaking task, especially when dealing with hardwoods or twisted grain. But with the right tools and techniques, you can make the job easier and more efficient. I’ve seen people struggle for hours trying to split a single log, only to give up in frustration. The key is to work smarter, not harder.

Tool Selection: Choosing the Right Weapon for the Job

Splitting Axe: A splitting axe is a heavy axe with a wide head designed for splitting wood. It’s ideal for splitting smaller logs and kindling.
Maul: A maul is a heavier version of the splitting axe, with a blunt head. It’s used for splitting larger logs and can also be used as a sledgehammer to drive wedges.
Wedges: Wedges are used to split logs that are too large or too tough to split with an axe or maul. They’re driven into the wood with a sledgehammer.
Hydraulic Log Splitter: A hydraulic log splitter is a machine that uses hydraulic power to split logs. It’s ideal for splitting large volumes of wood or for those who have difficulty splitting wood manually.

Splitting Techniques: Mastering the Art of the Swing

Stance: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and your knees slightly bent.
Grip: Grip the axe or maul firmly with both hands, keeping your back straight.
Swing: Swing the axe or maul in a smooth, controlled arc, aiming for the center of the log.
Follow Through: Follow through with your swing, allowing the weight of the axe or maul to do the work.

Dealing with Knots and Twisted Grain: Overcoming Obstacles

Avoid Knots: Whenever possible, avoid splitting through knots. Knots are much harder to split than straight-grained wood.
Split Along the Grain: Try to split the wood along the grain, following the natural lines of the wood.
Use Wedges: If you encounter a knot or twisted grain, use wedges to help split the wood. Drive the wedges into the wood along the grain, working your way around the obstacle.

Case Study: The Unbreakable Elm Log

I once encountered an elm log that seemed impossible to split. I tried everything – axes, mauls, wedges, even a hydraulic log splitter. Nothing seemed to make a dent. Finally, I realized that the wood was extremely dense and had a lot of twisted grain. In desperation, I decided to try splitting it with a chainsaw. I carefully cut a series of kerfs (shallow cuts) along the grain, then used wedges to split the wood along the kerfs. It was a slow and painstaking process, but eventually, I managed to split the log. The lesson? Sometimes, you have to think outside the box and use unconventional methods to conquer the toughest logs.

Safety Considerations: Protecting Yourself from Injury

Wear Safety Glasses: Always wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying wood chips.
Wear Gloves: Wear gloves to protect your hands from blisters and splinters.
Use Proper Footwear: Wear sturdy boots with good ankle support.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep a safe distance from others when splitting wood.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for obstacles.

Data Point: According to the National Safety Council, splitting wood is a leading cause of injuries related to forestry and logging. Taking proper safety precautions is essential for preventing injuries.

5. Firewood Seasoning and Storage: Maximizing Heat Output

Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently. Freshly cut wood can contain up to 50% moisture, which significantly reduces its heat output and increases the amount of smoke it produces. Seasoning allows the wood to dry out, reducing its moisture content to below 20%.

The Seasoning Process: Nature’s Drying Oven

Splitting: Splitting the wood exposes more surface area to the air, accelerating the drying process.
Stacking: Stacking the wood in a way that allows for good air circulation is essential for efficient seasoning.
Sun and Wind: Exposing the wood to sun and wind further accelerates the drying process.
Time: The amount of time required for seasoning depends on the species of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Generally, hardwoods require at least six months of seasoning, while softwoods may require less.

Stacking Methods: Optimizing Airflow

Elevated Stack: Stacking the wood on pallets or timbers elevates it off the ground, preventing moisture from wicking up into the wood.
Single Row Stack: Stacking the wood in a single row allows for maximum air circulation.
Crisscross Stack: Stacking the wood in a crisscross pattern creates air gaps between the logs, promoting air circulation.

I prefer stacking my firewood in a single row on pallets, with the rows oriented to take advantage of the prevailing winds. This method allows for maximum air circulation and ensures that the wood dries evenly.

Moisture Content Measurement: Knowing When It’s Ready

Moisture Meter: A moisture meter is a device that measures the moisture content of wood. It’s the most accurate way to determine if firewood is properly seasoned.
Visual Inspection: Seasoned firewood will be lighter in weight, have cracks in the end grain, and make a hollow sound when struck together.

Data Point: According to the US Department of Energy, burning properly seasoned firewood can increase heat output by up to 25% compared to burning green wood.

Storage Strategies: Protecting Your Investment

Covering: Covering the top of the woodpile with a tarp or shed roof protects the wood from rain and snow.
Ventilation: Ensure that the woodpile is well-ventilated to prevent moisture buildup.
Location: Store the woodpile away from buildings and vegetation to reduce the risk of fire and pest infestation.

My Firewood Storage Faux Pas

I once stored a large pile of firewood in a shed with poor ventilation. Over the winter, the wood became damp and moldy, rendering it useless for burning. It was a costly mistake, and a reminder of the importance of proper storage.

Beyond the Basics: Advanced Seasoning Techniques

Kiln Drying: Kiln drying is a process that uses heat to rapidly dry wood. It’s often used for commercial firewood production.
Solar Drying: Solar drying uses the sun’s energy to dry wood. It’s a more environmentally friendly alternative to kiln drying.

Technical Requirement: Firewood should have a moisture content of less than 20% for optimal burning.

These five pro logging tips are just the tip of the iceberg, but they’ll set you on the right path to successfully processing even the most “non-typical” whitetail deer-shaped logs. Remember to always prioritize safety, respect the wood, and never be afraid to learn something new. Now get out there and make some sawdust! And if you happen to find a log that looks like a deer rack, send me a picture! I’d love to see it.