MS661 Stihl Chainsaw Tips (5 Expert Hacks for Wood Processing)

I still remember the first time I held a chainsaw. It wasn’t an MS661 Stihl, mind you, but a smaller, less intimidating model. My grandfather, a man whose hands were as weathered as the oak he loved to work with, placed his hand over mine, guiding me through the basics. The smell of bar oil and sawdust filled the air, a scent that still evokes a sense of accomplishment and connection to the land. Now, years later, I’ve spent countless hours felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting wood. And while I’ve used many different saws, the MS661 Stihl has become a trusted workhorse, a machine that, when properly handled, can tackle even the most demanding wood processing tasks.

This guide isn’t just a collection of tips; it’s a distillation of my experiences, lessons learned (sometimes the hard way!), and insights gained from working alongside seasoned professionals. Whether you’re a seasoned logger or a weekend warrior preparing for winter, I hope these “expert hacks” will help you get the most out of your MS661 Stihl and make your wood processing endeavors safer, more efficient, and ultimately, more rewarding.

MS661 Stihl Chainsaw Tips: 5 Expert Hacks for Wood Processing

The global wood processing and firewood industry is a significant contributor to both local economies and global energy needs. According to recent reports, the global firewood market alone is projected to reach \$4.5 billion by 2027, driven by increasing energy costs and a renewed interest in sustainable heating solutions. Logging, a crucial part of wood processing, faces increasing demands for sustainable practices, with certifications like the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) gaining importance. The MS661 Stihl chainsaw, known for its power and durability, plays a pivotal role in this industry, offering professionals and hobbyists alike a reliable tool for demanding tasks.

However, maximizing the performance and longevity of an MS661 requires more than just raw power. It demands knowledge, technique, and a commitment to safety. Let’s dive into some expert hacks that will help you unleash the full potential of this beast.

Hack #1: Mastering the Art of Chain Sharpening for Optimal Cutting

A dull chain is not only inefficient; it’s dangerous. It forces you to apply more pressure, increasing the risk of kickback and operator fatigue. A sharp chain, on the other hand, bites into the wood effortlessly, making your work faster, safer, and more enjoyable.

Why Sharpening Matters

• Increased Efficiency: A sharp chain cuts faster, reducing the time and effort required to process wood.
• Improved Safety: A dull chain increases the risk of kickback and loss of control.
• Reduced Wear and Tear: A sharp chain reduces stress on the chainsaw engine, extending its lifespan.
• Cleaner Cuts: A sharp chain produces smoother, more precise cuts, which is particularly important for woodworking projects.

The Right Tools for the Job

• Chainsaw Sharpener: A chainsaw sharpener, whether manual or electric, is essential for maintaining a consistent cutting angle and depth. I prefer using a file guide for field sharpening and an electric grinder for more significant sharpening needs.
• Round File: Choose a round file that matches the pitch of your chainsaw chain. Refer to your chain manufacturer’s specifications for the correct file size.
• Flat File: A flat file is used to adjust the depth gauges (rakers) on the chain.
• Depth Gauge Tool: This tool helps you accurately set the depth of the depth gauges.
• Vise: A small vise can be clamped to a stump or log to securely hold the chainsaw bar during sharpening.

Step-by-Step Sharpening Guide

1. Secure the Chainsaw: Place the chainsaw on a stable surface and engage the chain brake. For added stability, you can use a bar vise to clamp the bar.
2. Identify the Cutting Angle: Refer to your chainsaw’s manual or the chain manufacturer’s specifications for the correct cutting angle. This is crucial for achieving optimal cutting performance. For most Stihl chains, this angle is around 30 degrees.
3. Sharpen the Cutters: Using the round file and file guide, sharpen each cutter, maintaining the correct angle and depth. Make smooth, consistent strokes, filing from the inside out. Count the number of strokes you make on each cutter and repeat the same number of strokes on all the other cutters to maintain uniform sharpness.
4. Adjust the Depth Gauges: After sharpening the cutters, use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges. If they are too high, use the flat file to carefully lower them. The correct depth gauge setting is crucial for preventing the chain from grabbing or chattering. Typically, the depth gauge should be about 0.025 inches (0.635 mm) below the top of the cutter.
5. Check for Consistency: After sharpening all the cutters and adjusting the depth gauges, visually inspect the chain to ensure that all the cutters are uniform in size and shape.
6. Test the Chain: Before using the chainsaw, test the sharpness of the chain by making a few test cuts in a piece of scrap wood. The chain should cut smoothly and aggressively, producing clean, even chips.

Pro Tip: Field Sharpening

Carry a small sharpening kit with you when working in the field. A few quick strokes with a file every time you refuel can significantly extend the life of your chain and improve your cutting performance. I always keep a small file, a file guide, and a depth gauge tool in my chainsaw case.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Filing at the Wrong Angle: This will result in a chain that cuts poorly and wears out quickly.
• Filing Too Deep: This can weaken the cutters and make them more prone to damage.
• Ignoring the Depth Gauges: Improperly adjusted depth gauges can cause the chain to grab or chatter, making it difficult to control.
• Using a Dull File: A dull file will not sharpen the chain effectively and can actually damage the cutters.

Hack #2: Optimizing Bar and Chain Selection for Specific Wood Types

Not all wood is created equal. Hardwoods like oak and maple require a different approach than softwoods like pine and fir. Choosing the right bar and chain combination for the specific type of wood you’re processing can significantly improve your efficiency and extend the life of your equipment.

Understanding Wood Properties

• Hardness: Hardwoods are denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods.
• Moisture Content: Green wood (freshly cut) is more difficult to cut than seasoned wood.
• Resin Content: Some woods, like pine, contain high levels of resin, which can gum up the chain and bar.
• Grain Pattern: The grain pattern of the wood can affect the cutting performance of the chain.

Bar Selection

• Length: The length of the bar should be appropriate for the size of the trees you’re felling and the diameter of the logs you’re bucking. A longer bar allows you to cut larger trees, but it also increases the risk of kickback. The MS661 can handle bars from 20 inches to 36 inches, but I find a 28-inch bar to be a good all-around choice for most applications.
• Type: There are several different types of chainsaw bars available, including solid bars, laminated bars, and sprocket-nose bars. Solid bars are the most durable but also the heaviest. Laminated bars are lighter but less durable. Sprocket-nose bars have a replaceable sprocket at the tip, which reduces friction and improves cutting speed.
• Width: The width of the bar must match the gauge of the chain.

Chain Selection

• Pitch: The pitch of the chain is the distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two. The pitch of the chain must match the sprocket on the chainsaw. The MS661 typically uses a .404″ pitch chain.
• Gauge: The gauge of the chain is the thickness of the drive links. The gauge of the chain must match the width of the bar groove.
• Type: There are several different types of chainsaw chains available, including full chisel, semi-chisel, and low-kickback chains. Full chisel chains are the sharpest and fastest cutting but also the most prone to kickback. Semi-chisel chains are a good compromise between cutting speed and safety. Low-kickback chains are designed to reduce the risk of kickback but are less efficient at cutting. For hardwoods, I generally prefer a full chisel chain for its aggressive bite. For softer woods, a semi-chisel chain can be a good choice.
• Number of Drive Links: The number of drive links must match the length of the bar.

Matching Bar and Chain to Wood Type

• Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Hickory): Use a full chisel chain with a high-quality bar. Consider using a longer bar for felling larger trees.
• Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): Use a semi-chisel or low-kickback chain. A shorter bar may be sufficient for bucking smaller logs.
• Green Wood: Use a chain specifically designed for cutting green wood. These chains have a wider kerf (the width of the cut) to prevent the chain from binding.
• Frozen Wood: Use a chain specifically designed for cutting frozen wood. These chains have hardened cutters that are less prone to damage.

Pro Tip: Chain Oiling

Proper chain lubrication is crucial for extending the life of both the bar and the chain. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil and check the oil level frequently. Adjust the oiler on your MS661 to ensure that the chain is adequately lubricated. I often adjust the oiler to a higher setting when cutting hardwoods or working in hot weather.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using the Wrong Bar Length: A bar that is too long can be difficult to control and increases the risk of kickback.
• Using the Wrong Chain Type: Using the wrong chain type can result in poor cutting performance and increased wear and tear on your equipment.
• Neglecting Chain Lubrication: Insufficient chain lubrication can cause the bar and chain to overheat and wear out prematurely.
• Mixing Bar and Chain Types: Always use a bar and chain that are compatible with each other.

Hack #3: Mastering Felling Techniques for Safety and Efficiency

Felling a tree is a complex and potentially dangerous task. It requires careful planning, precise execution, and a thorough understanding of tree behavior. Mastering proper felling techniques is essential for ensuring your safety and maximizing the yield from your timber.

Pre-Felling Assessment

• Tree Lean: Determine the natural lean of the tree. Trees tend to fall in the direction of their lean.
• Wind Direction: Consider the wind direction. Wind can significantly affect the direction of the fall.
• Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the intended felling path, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees.
• Escape Routes: Plan two escape routes that are at a 45-degree angle to the intended felling direction. Clear these routes of any obstacles.
• Tree Species: Different species have different felling characteristics. For example, hardwoods tend to be more brittle than softwoods.
• Tree Condition: Inspect the tree for any signs of decay, disease, or structural weaknesses.

Felling Cuts

• The Notch: The notch is a wedge-shaped cut that determines the direction of the fall. It should be cut on the side of the tree facing the intended felling direction. The notch should be approximately 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter. The angle of the notch should be between 45 and 60 degrees.
  • Open Face Notch: A common and reliable notch.
  • Humboldt Notch: Best for larger trees, offering more control.
• The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It should be slightly higher than the bottom of the notch. The back cut should leave a hinge of uncut wood that is approximately 1/10 of the tree’s diameter. This hinge helps control the direction of the fall. Never cut completely through the tree.
• The Hinge: The hinge is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It acts as a guide, ensuring the tree falls in the intended direction.

Felling Procedure

1. Clear the Area: Clear the area around the tree of any obstacles.
2. Establish Escape Routes: Ensure that your escape routes are clear and unobstructed.
3. Make the Notch: Carefully make the notch, ensuring that the angle and depth are correct.
4. Make the Back Cut: Carefully make the back cut, leaving the hinge intact.
5. Warn Others: Shout a warning to alert anyone in the area that the tree is about to fall.
6. Retreat: Retreat along your escape route as the tree falls.
7. Observe: Observe the tree as it falls, watching for any unexpected movements.

Using Felling Wedges

Felling wedges are used to help direct the fall of the tree, especially when the tree is leaning in the wrong direction or when there is a risk of the tree barber chairing (splitting vertically).

1. Insert the Wedges: Insert the felling wedges into the back cut, behind the hinge.
2. Drive the Wedges: Use a hammer or axe to drive the wedges into the back cut.
3. Continue Driving: Continue driving the wedges until the tree begins to lean in the intended direction.

Pro Tip: The Importance of the Hinge

The hinge is the most critical part of the felling process. A properly sized and shaped hinge will ensure that the tree falls in the intended direction. A hinge that is too small can cause the tree to barber chair, while a hinge that is too large can prevent the tree from falling. I always double-check the size and shape of the hinge before making the back cut.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Cutting Too Deep into the Notch: This can weaken the tree and make it more likely to barber chair.
• Cutting the Back Cut Too High: This can cause the tree to kick back.
• Cutting the Back Cut Too Low: This can prevent the tree from falling.
• Failing to Use Felling Wedges: Felling wedges can be essential for controlling the direction of the fall, especially when the tree is leaning in the wrong direction.
• Ignoring Safety Precautions: Felling trees is a dangerous task. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and steel-toed boots.

Hack #4: Efficient Bucking and Splitting Techniques for Firewood Preparation

Once you’ve felled the tree, the next step is to buck it into manageable lengths and split the logs for firewood. Efficient bucking and splitting techniques can save you time and energy, while also reducing the risk of injury.

Bucking Techniques

• Choose the Right Length: Determine the appropriate length for your firewood. Typically, firewood is cut to lengths of 16 inches, 18 inches, or 20 inches.
• Use a Measuring Device: Use a measuring device, such as a measuring stick or a tape measure, to accurately mark the cutting points.
• Support the Log: Support the log to prevent it from pinching the chain. Use logs or branches to create a stable cutting platform.
• Make the Cuts: Make clean, straight cuts, following the marked cutting points.
• Avoid Cutting into the Ground: Avoid cutting into the ground, as this can dull the chain.

Splitting Techniques

• Choose the Right Tool: Choose the right tool for the job. For smaller logs, a splitting axe may be sufficient. For larger logs, a hydraulic log splitter may be necessary.
• Position the Log: Position the log on a stable splitting block.
• Aim for the Center: Aim for the center of the log.
• Use Proper Technique: Use proper technique to swing the axe or operate the log splitter.
• Wear Safety Gear: Wear safety gear, including eye protection and gloves.

Splitting with an Axe

1. Stance: Position yourself with your feet shoulder-width apart, facing the splitting block.
2. Grip: Grip the axe handle firmly with both hands, keeping your hands close together.
3. Swing: Swing the axe in a smooth, controlled motion, aiming for the center of the log.
4. Follow Through: Follow through with the swing, allowing the weight of the axe to do the work.

Splitting with a Hydraulic Log Splitter

1. Position the Log: Place the log on the log splitter bed, ensuring that it is securely positioned against the splitting wedge.
2. Engage the Ram: Engage the ram to push the log against the splitting wedge.
3. Split the Log: Continue pushing the log until it splits into two pieces.
4. Repeat: Repeat the process to split the remaining logs.

Pro Tip: Splitting Difficult Logs

Some logs are more difficult to split than others. Knots, twisted grain, and frozen wood can all make splitting more challenging. Here are a few tips for splitting difficult logs:

• Use a Wedge: Use a splitting wedge to help split the log.
• Split from the Edge: Try splitting the log from the edge, rather than the center.
• Soak in Water: Soaking the log in water can make it easier to split.
• Use a Maul: A maul is a heavier splitting tool that can generate more force.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Cutting Logs Too Short: Cutting logs too short can make them difficult to stack and burn efficiently.
• Cutting Logs Too Long: Cutting logs too long can make them difficult to handle and split.
• Using a Dull Axe: Using a dull axe can make splitting more difficult and dangerous.
• Using Improper Technique: Using improper technique can increase the risk of injury.
• Ignoring Safety Precautions: Always wear appropriate safety gear when bucking and splitting firewood.

Hack #5: Optimizing Firewood Seasoning for Maximum Heat Output

Green wood contains a high percentage of moisture, which significantly reduces its heat output and increases the amount of smoke it produces. Seasoning firewood is the process of drying the wood to reduce its moisture content. Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently.

Understanding Moisture Content

• Green Wood: Green wood typically has a moisture content of 50% or higher.
• Seasoned Wood: Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.

The Seasoning Process

• Stacking: Stack the firewood in a single row, off the ground, to allow for air circulation.
• Sunlight: Expose the firewood to sunlight to speed up the drying process.
• Air Circulation: Ensure that there is good air circulation around the firewood stack.
• Covering: Cover the top of the firewood stack to protect it from rain and snow.
• Time: Allow the firewood to season for at least six months, and preferably a year or more.

Optimal Stacking Techniques

• Elevate the Wood: Place the firewood on pallets, racks, or logs to elevate it off the ground. This prevents moisture from wicking up into the wood.
• Leave Space Between Rows: Leave a few inches of space between rows of firewood to allow for air circulation.
• Stack in a Single Row: Stacking firewood in a single row allows for maximum air circulation.
• Orient the Stack: Orient the stack so that it is exposed to sunlight and wind.
• Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect it from rain and snow.

Data on Seasoning Effectiveness

Studies have shown that properly seasoned firewood can produce up to 50% more heat than green wood. In addition, seasoned firewood burns cleaner, producing less smoke and creosote.

Pro Tip: Using a Moisture Meter

A moisture meter is a valuable tool for determining the moisture content of firewood. Insert the probes of the moisture meter into a freshly split piece of firewood. The meter will display the moisture content as a percentage.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Stacking Firewood on the Ground: Stacking firewood on the ground prevents air circulation and allows moisture to wick up into the wood.
• Stacking Firewood Too Tightly: Stacking firewood too tightly restricts air circulation and slows down the drying process.
• Failing to Cover the Firewood: Failing to cover the firewood allows it to get wet, which slows down the drying process.
• Not Allowing Enough Time for Seasoning: Not allowing enough time for seasoning will result in firewood that is still too wet to burn efficiently.

Case Study: Successful Firewood Drying

I once worked with a local firewood producer who was struggling to meet the demand for seasoned firewood. By implementing the stacking and covering techniques described above, he was able to significantly reduce the seasoning time and increase his production of seasoned firewood. He also invested in a moisture meter, which allowed him to accurately assess the moisture content of his firewood and ensure that it met the required standards.

Next Steps and Additional Resources

Mastering the MS661 Stihl chainsaw and the art of wood processing is a journey. Here are some resources to continue your learning:

• Local Chainsaw Dealers: Visit your local Stihl dealer for expert advice and service.
• Forestry Associations: Join a forestry association to connect with other professionals and learn about the latest industry trends.
• Online Forums: Participate in online forums to share your experiences and learn from others.
• Wood Processing Equipment Suppliers: Research and connect with suppliers of logging tools, firewood processors, and drying equipment.
• Safety Training Courses: Enroll in safety training courses to improve your felling and bucking techniques.

By following these expert hacks and continuing to learn and improve your skills, you can unlock the full potential of your MS661 Stihl and enjoy the satisfaction of processing wood safely and efficiently. Remember, the key to success is knowledge, technique, and a commitment to safety. Now, get out there and make some sawdust!

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