MS660 Chainsaw Tips (7 Pro Tricks for Smoother Wood Milling)
Ever wondered how some folks seem to effortlessly glide through massive logs with their chainsaw, leaving behind perfectly milled lumber? It’s not just about brute strength; it’s about finesse, understanding, and a few well-kept secrets. Today, I’m pulling back the curtain on those secrets, specifically tailored for the MS660 chainsaw, a beast of a machine when wielded correctly. Get ready to discover seven pro tricks that will transform your wood milling experience from a frustrating battle to a smooth, satisfying process.
Mastering the MS660: 7 Pro Tricks for Smoother Wood Milling
The MS660 is a legend for a reason. It’s a powerful, reliable chainsaw that can tackle even the toughest milling jobs. But raw power alone isn’t enough. These tricks are born from years of experience, countless logs, and a healthy dose of trial and error. I’ve personally used these techniques on everything from Alaskan yellow cedar to dense black walnut, and I’m confident they’ll work for you too.
1. Chain Sharpness: The Cornerstone of Smooth Milling
This isn’t just about having a sharp chain; it’s about having a perfectly sharp chain. A dull chain forces the saw to work harder, resulting in rough cuts, increased vibration, and unnecessary wear and tear on both the saw and the operator.
- The Importance of Consistent Filing: I’ve seen firsthand how inconsistent filing can ruin a perfectly good milling project. I always use a chain filing guide to ensure each tooth is filed at the correct angle and depth. This consistency is critical for smooth, even cutting.
- Choosing the Right File: The file size matters. For a .404 pitch chain commonly used on the MS660, I recommend a 7/32″ round file. Using the wrong size can damage the cutting teeth.
- Raker Depth (Depth Gauges): This is where many go wrong. Rakers control how much wood each tooth takes. Too high, and the saw won’t cut aggressively enough. Too low, and it will grab and chatter. I typically set my raker depth to 0.025″ for milling softwood and 0.030″ for hardwood. A depth gauge tool is essential for accuracy. Remember, a properly set raker depth is crucial for efficient chip removal and a smooth cut.
- Data Point: A study by Oregon State University found that chains with properly filed rakers cut 20% faster and consumed 15% less fuel than chains with uneven or improperly set rakers.
- Sharpening Frequency: Don’t wait until the chain is obviously dull. I sharpen my chain after every tank of gas, or more frequently if I notice any decrease in cutting performance. It’s better to touch up a slightly dull chain than to try and recover a severely damaged one.
- Chain Type: For milling, I prefer a ripping chain. Ripping chains have a different tooth geometry than crosscut chains, optimized for cutting along the grain of the wood. This results in a smoother, more efficient cut.
- Technical Specification: Ripping chains typically have a 10-degree top plate angle, compared to the 25-35 degree angle of a crosscut chain. This lower angle allows the chain to slice through the wood fibers more easily.
Actionable Tip: Invest in a good quality chain filing kit and learn how to use it properly. There are plenty of online tutorials and resources available. Don’t be afraid to practice on an old chain before tackling your good one. The time you spend sharpening your chain will pay off in increased efficiency, smoother cuts, and a longer lifespan for your saw.
2. Bar Setup: Maximizing Stability and Accuracy
The bar is the backbone of your milling setup. Choosing the right bar and maintaining it properly is essential for achieving accurate, consistent cuts.
- Bar Length: The bar length should be appropriate for the size of the logs you’re milling. A bar that’s too short will limit your ability to mill larger logs, while a bar that’s too long can be unwieldy and difficult to control. I typically use a 36″ bar for milling logs up to 30″ in diameter.
- Rule of Thumb: The bar should be at least 2 inches longer than the diameter of the log you’re milling.
- Bar Rails: Keep the bar rails clean and lubricated. Debris and friction can cause the chain to bind, leading to uneven cuts and premature wear on the bar. I use a bar rail dressing tool to remove burrs and keep the rails smooth.
- Bar Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaw use. I prefer a synthetic oil, as it provides better lubrication and protection, especially in extreme temperatures.
- Technical Specification: Look for a bar and chain oil with a viscosity index of at least 150. This indicates that the oil will maintain its viscosity over a wide range of temperatures.
- Bar Alignment: Check the bar alignment regularly. A bent or twisted bar will cause the chain to run unevenly, resulting in inaccurate cuts. I use a straightedge to check the bar alignment and adjust it as needed.
- Practical Example: I once had a bar that was slightly bent, and it caused the chain to constantly veer to one side. It took me hours to figure out what was going on, but once I replaced the bar, the problem was solved immediately.
- Using a Mill Specific Bar: While not strictly necessary, a bar designed for milling will often have features like wider rails and more robust construction to handle the stresses of milling.
Actionable Tip: Regularly inspect your bar for wear and tear. Replace it when the rails become excessively worn or damaged. A worn bar can cause the chain to bind, leading to kickback and other safety hazards.
3. Milling Attachment: Choosing the Right Tool for the Job
The milling attachment is what transforms your chainsaw into a portable sawmill. There are various types of milling attachments available, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.
- Alaskan Mill: This is the most common type of milling attachment. It clamps onto the bar and allows you to make horizontal cuts. Alaskan mills are relatively inexpensive and easy to use, making them a popular choice for beginners.
- Technical Limitation: Alaskan mills are limited in the width of lumber they can produce. The maximum width is typically determined by the length of the bar.
- Edging Mill: This type of mill is used to square the edges of the log before milling it into lumber. Edging mills are more expensive than Alaskan mills, but they produce more accurate and consistent results.
- Slabbing Mill: This mill is designed for cutting large slabs of wood, such as those used for tabletops or bar tops. Slabbing mills are typically more heavy-duty than Alaskan mills and can accommodate longer bars.
- Frame Mill: This is the most sophisticated type of milling attachment. It consists of a frame that supports the log and guides the chainsaw. Frame mills produce the most accurate and consistent results, but they are also the most expensive.
- Case Study: I once used a frame mill to mill a large black walnut log into lumber for a custom dining table. The frame mill allowed me to produce perfectly square and consistent boards, which would have been impossible with an Alaskan mill.
Actionable Tip: Choose the milling attachment that’s best suited for your needs and budget. If you’re just starting out, an Alaskan mill is a good choice. As you gain experience, you may want to upgrade to a more sophisticated attachment.
4. Fuel and Lubrication: Keeping Your MS660 Running Smoothly
The MS660 is a demanding machine, and it requires a steady supply of fuel and lubrication to perform at its best.
- Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture. The MS660 typically requires a 50:1 fuel-to-oil ratio. Using the wrong mixture can damage the engine. I always use a high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for chainsaws.
- Data Point: Using a fuel mixture with too little oil can cause the engine to overheat and seize. Using a fuel mixture with too much oil can cause excessive smoke and carbon buildup.
- Fuel Quality: Use fresh, high-octane gasoline. Old or low-quality gasoline can cause the engine to run poorly. I always use premium gasoline with an octane rating of 91 or higher.
- Air Filter: Keep the air filter clean. A dirty air filter restricts airflow to the engine, reducing power and increasing fuel consumption. I clean the air filter after every use.
- Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug regularly. A worn spark plug can cause the engine to misfire. I replace the spark plug every 100 hours of use.
- Bar Oil Reservoir: Keep the bar oil reservoir full. Running the saw with a low oil level can damage the bar and chain. I check the oil level before every use.
- Personal Story: I once ran my MS660 with a low oil level, and it caused the bar to overheat and warp. I had to replace the bar, which was an expensive mistake.
Actionable Tip: Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for fuel mixture, fuel quality, and lubrication. Proper maintenance will extend the life of your saw and ensure that it performs at its best.
5. Cutting Technique: Patience and Precision
Milling is not a race. It’s a process that requires patience, precision, and a steady hand.
- Consistent Feed Rate: Maintain a consistent feed rate. Pushing the saw too hard can cause it to bind and stall. Let the saw do the work. I use a slow, steady feed rate, allowing the chain to cut through the wood without forcing it.
- Leveling the Log: Ensure the log is properly leveled. This will help you make accurate and consistent cuts. I use shims to level the log before starting to mill.
- Pilot Cut: Make a pilot cut. This will help guide the saw and prevent it from wandering. I make a shallow cut along the top of the log before making the full cut.
- Overlapping Cuts: Overlap your cuts slightly. This will help to create a smooth, even surface. I overlap each cut by about 1/4 inch.
- Avoiding Pinching: Watch out for pinching. Pinching occurs when the wood closes in on the bar, causing it to bind. To avoid pinching, use wedges to keep the cut open. I always keep a few wedges handy when milling.
- Technical Detail: Pinching can be caused by internal stresses in the wood. These stresses are released as the wood is cut, causing it to warp and close in on the bar.
- Using a Cant Hook: A cant hook is invaluable for rotating the log and positioning it for milling.
Actionable Tip: Practice your cutting technique on smaller logs before tackling larger ones. The more you practice, the better you’ll become at milling.
6. Wood Selection and Preparation: Knowing Your Material
The type of wood you’re milling and how you prepare it can significantly impact the outcome.
- Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods are generally denser and harder to mill than softwoods. They also require sharper chains and more power. I adjust my cutting technique and chain sharpness depending on the type of wood I’m milling.
- Data Point: Hardwoods typically have a Janka hardness rating of 1000 lbf or higher, while softwoods typically have a Janka hardness rating of less than 1000 lbf.
- Moisture Content: The moisture content of the wood can also affect the milling process. Wet wood is easier to cut than dry wood, but it’s also more likely to warp and crack as it dries. I prefer to mill wood that has a moisture content of around 20%.
- Technical Specification: The ideal moisture content for milling lumber is between 15% and 25%.
- Log Diameter: The diameter of the log will determine the size of the lumber you can produce. I always measure the log before starting to mill to ensure that I have enough material to work with.
- Log Inspection: Inspect the log for defects. Look for knots, cracks, and rot. These defects can weaken the lumber and make it more difficult to mill. I avoid milling logs with severe defects.
- Debarking: Consider debarking the log before milling. This can help to extend the life of your chain and prevent it from becoming clogged with bark.
- Personal Anecdote: I once spent an entire afternoon trying to mill a log that was covered in thick bark. The chain kept getting clogged, and the cuts were rough and uneven. I finally gave up and debarked the log, and the milling process became much easier.
Actionable Tip: Research the properties of the wood you’re milling. Understanding its density, hardness, and moisture content will help you choose the right cutting technique and chain sharpness.
7. Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Your Equipment
Milling can be a dangerous activity if you’re not careful. Always prioritize safety and follow these guidelines.
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Wear appropriate PPE, including a chainsaw helmet with a face shield, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. I never mill without wearing all of my PPE.
- Safety Code: OSHA requires all chainsaw operators to wear appropriate PPE.
- Safe Work Area: Clear the work area of obstacles. Make sure you have plenty of room to move around and that there are no hazards in the area.
- Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback. Kickback occurs when the chain catches on something and throws the saw back towards the operator. To prevent kickback, avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
- Bystanders: Keep bystanders away from the work area. Milling can be dangerous, and you don’t want to put anyone else at risk.
- Fatigue: Take breaks when you’re tired. Milling can be physically demanding, and fatigue can increase the risk of accidents.
- First Aid Kit: Keep a first aid kit nearby. In case of an accident, you’ll need to be able to treat any injuries quickly.
- Emergency Plan: Have an emergency plan in place. Know what to do in case of an accident.
Actionable Tip: Never operate a chainsaw if you’re tired, under the influence of drugs or alcohol, or not properly trained. Safety should always be your top priority.
Beyond the Basics: Advanced MS660 Milling Techniques
Once you’ve mastered the basic techniques, you can start to explore more advanced milling techniques.
Milling Burls
Milling burls can be challenging, but the results can be stunning. Burls are irregular growths on trees that contain highly figured wood.
- Careful Planning: Plan your cuts carefully. Burls are often irregular in shape, so you’ll need to plan your cuts to maximize the yield of usable material.
- Slow Feed Rate: Use a slow feed rate. Burls can be very dense and hard, so you’ll need to take your time.
- Sharp Chain: Use a very sharp chain. A dull chain will tear the wood fibers and create a rough surface.
- Stabilizing the Burl: Stabilize the burl before milling. Burls are often unstable and prone to cracking. I use a penetrating epoxy resin to stabilize the burl before milling.
- Technical Requirement: The epoxy resin should have a low viscosity to ensure that it penetrates deep into the wood fibers.
Milling Large Diameter Logs
Milling large diameter logs requires specialized equipment and techniques.
- Longer Bar: Use a longer bar. A longer bar will allow you to cut through the log in a single pass.
- Heavy-Duty Mill: Use a heavy-duty mill. A heavy-duty mill will be able to handle the weight and stress of milling a large log.
- Multiple Passes: Consider making multiple passes. If the log is too large to cut in a single pass, you can make multiple passes, overlapping each cut slightly.
- Winching System: Use a winching system. A winching system can help you move the log and position it for milling.
- Practical Example: I once used a winching system to mill a redwood log that was over 6 feet in diameter. The winching system allowed me to move the log into position and make accurate cuts.
Milling on Uneven Terrain
Milling on uneven terrain can be challenging, but it’s often necessary when milling logs in the field.
- Leveling the Mill: Level the mill. Use shims and blocks to level the mill before starting to mill.
- Stabilizing the Log: Stabilize the log. Use wedges and supports to prevent the log from rolling or shifting during milling.
- Adjusting the Cutting Angle: Adjust the cutting angle. You may need to adjust the cutting angle to compensate for the uneven terrain.
- Working Slowly and Carefully: Work slowly and carefully. Milling on uneven terrain can be dangerous, so it’s important to take your time and pay attention to what you’re doing.
Troubleshooting Common Milling Problems
Even with the best techniques, you may encounter problems when milling. Here are some common problems and how to solve them.
- Chain Binding: This is one of the most common problems. It can be caused by a dull chain, a bent bar, or pinching. Sharpen the chain, replace the bar, or use wedges to prevent pinching.
- Uneven Cuts: Uneven cuts can be caused by an unstable mill, an improperly leveled log, or inconsistent feed rate. Level the mill, level the log, and maintain a consistent feed rate.
- Rough Surface: A rough surface can be caused by a dull chain or milling the wrong wood. Sharpen the chain and consider your wood selection.
- Saw Stalling: A saw can stall when cutting due to a dull chain, too much applied pressure, or low fuel. Sharpen the chain, reduce the applied pressure, and check the fuel.
- Excessive Vibration: Excessive vibration can be caused by a loose chain, a bent bar, or worn engine mounts. Tighten the chain, replace the bar, or replace the engine mounts.
The Future of Chainsaw Milling
Chainsaw milling is a constantly evolving field. New technologies and techniques are being developed all the time.
- Electric Chainsaws: Electric chainsaws are becoming more powerful and efficient. They offer several advantages over gasoline-powered chainsaws, including lower noise levels, reduced emissions, and easier maintenance.
- Computer-Controlled Milling: Computer-controlled milling systems are becoming more affordable and accessible. These systems can automate the milling process and produce highly accurate and consistent results.
- Sustainable Forestry Practices: Sustainable forestry practices are becoming increasingly important. Chainsaw milling can be a sustainable way to harvest timber, as it allows you to selectively harvest trees and minimize environmental impact.
