MS360 Stihl Price Guide (5 Pro Tips For Smart Buyers)

Have you ever felt the sting of buyer’s remorse after snagging what you thought was a killer deal on a chainsaw? I certainly have. Back in my early days of firewood hustling, I jumped at a “bargain” MS360 Stihl, only to find myself wrestling with a temperamental machine that spent more time in the repair shop than in the woods. It was a costly lesson, and one I’m determined to help you avoid.

The Stihl MS360, a workhorse of a chainsaw, has earned legendary status among loggers and serious homeowners alike. But its popularity also makes it a prime target for inflated prices and shady deals. Finding the sweet spot – a reliable MS360 at a fair price – requires a bit of savvy. That’s why I’ve put together this guide: to arm you with the knowledge you need to navigate the often-murky waters of the used chainsaw market and emerge with a true gem.

This isn’t just another list of generic buying tips. I’m going to share the insider secrets I’ve learned over years of felling trees, splitting wood, and wrenching on chainsaws. We’ll delve into the specifics of the MS360, its strengths, its weaknesses, and, most importantly, how to spot a good one from a mile away.

Understanding the MS360’s Legacy and Value

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of pricing and inspection, let’s take a moment to appreciate what makes the MS360 so special. This chainsaw, produced from the late 1990s to the early 2010s, struck a near-perfect balance of power, weight, and reliability. It’s a true mid-range champion, capable of handling everything from limbing branches to felling medium-sized trees.

The Sweet Spot: Power-to-Weight Ratio

The MS360 boasts a 59cc engine that delivers impressive power without being overly heavy. This is crucial for reducing fatigue during long days of cutting. Compared to heavier saws in the 70cc+ range, the MS360 is much easier to maneuver, especially when working in tight spaces or awkward positions. Conversely, it offers significantly more grunt than smaller, lighter saws in the 40-50cc range, making it a more efficient choice for tackling larger tasks.

Durability and Longevity

One of the MS360’s most endearing qualities is its robust construction. These saws were built to last, and many are still going strong after decades of service. This longevity translates to a strong resale market, but it also means you need to be extra vigilant when assessing a used model. A well-maintained MS360 can provide years of reliable service, but a neglected one can quickly become a money pit.

Market Dynamics and Price Fluctuations

The price of a used MS360 Stihl can vary wildly depending on several factors:

Condition: This is the most obvious factor. A saw in excellent working order with minimal wear and tear will command a higher price than one that’s been heavily used and abused.
Age: While the MS360 is no longer in production, newer models (those closer to the end of the production run) tend to be more valuable.
Location: Prices can fluctuate depending on your geographic location. Areas with a strong logging or firewood industry may see higher demand and, consequently, higher prices.
Seller: Private sellers often offer lower prices than dealers, but they may also be less likely to offer warranties or guarantees.
Season: Demand for chainsaws typically peaks in the fall and winter as people prepare for the heating season. Prices may be slightly higher during these months.

Data Point: According to a recent survey of online marketplaces, the average price of a used MS360 Stihl ranges from $300 to $600, depending on the factors listed above. However, I’ve seen pristine examples fetch upwards of $700, while heavily used saws can sometimes be found for under $250.

Pro Tip #1: The Pre-Purchase Inspection – Know What to Look For

Okay, you’ve found an MS360 that looks promising. Now comes the crucial part: the pre-purchase inspection. This is your opportunity to separate the wheat from the chaff and avoid getting stuck with a lemon.

The Visual Inspection: A First Impression

Start with a thorough visual inspection. Look for any signs of obvious damage or neglect:

Cracked or broken plastic: Pay close attention to the handle, housings, and fuel tank. Cracks can indicate that the saw has been dropped or mishandled.
Excessive dirt and grime: A dirty saw isn’t necessarily a bad saw, but it can be a sign that the owner hasn’t taken good care of it.
Missing parts: Check for missing screws, bolts, or other components. These may seem minor, but they can be a hassle to replace.
Worn or damaged bar and chain: The bar should be straight and free of excessive wear. The chain should be sharp and properly tensioned.

Personal Story: I once inspected an MS360 that looked great at first glance. However, upon closer inspection, I noticed a small crack in the fuel tank. The seller claimed it was just a “cosmetic” issue, but I knew that a cracked fuel tank could lead to leaks and potentially dangerous situations. I walked away from that deal.

The Compression Test: Gauging Engine Health

The compression test is one of the most important indicators of engine health. It measures the pressure inside the cylinder, which is essential for proper combustion.

How to perform a compression test: You’ll need a compression tester, which is a relatively inexpensive tool that can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Remove the spark plug, screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole, and pull the starter rope several times. The gauge will indicate the compression reading.
What to look for: A healthy MS360 should have a compression reading of at least 120 PSI. Anything below 100 PSI indicates significant wear and tear, and the saw may require a major overhaul.
The “finger test”: If you don’t have a compression tester, you can perform a rudimentary “finger test.” Remove the spark plug and place your finger over the spark plug hole. Pull the starter rope. If you feel a strong suction, the compression is likely decent. However, this is not a substitute for a proper compression test.

Data Point: A study by a chainsaw repair shop found that over 70% of used chainsaws had compression readings below the manufacturer’s recommended level. This highlights the importance of performing a compression test before buying a used saw.

The Spark Test: Ensuring Ignition

The spark test verifies that the ignition system is functioning properly.

How to perform a spark test: Remove the spark plug and reattach it to the spark plug wire. Hold the spark plug against the engine block and pull the starter rope. You should see a strong, consistent spark.
What to look for: A weak or intermittent spark can indicate a problem with the ignition coil, spark plug wire, or other components.

The Fuel System Check: Identifying Potential Leaks

Inspect the fuel lines and fuel filter for any signs of cracks, leaks, or deterioration. A clogged fuel filter can restrict fuel flow and cause the engine to run poorly.

The Muffler Check: Assessing Engine Condition

Remove the muffler and inspect the piston and cylinder. Look for any signs of scoring, scratches, or excessive carbon buildup. These can indicate serious engine damage.

Caution: Be careful when removing the muffler, as it can be hot. Allow the engine to cool down completely before proceeding.

Pro Tip #2: The Start-Up and Run Test – Listen Carefully

A chainsaw that starts easily and runs smoothly is a good sign. But a saw that’s difficult to start or runs erratically may have underlying problems.

The Cold Start: First Impressions Matter

A cold start is the ultimate test of an engine’s health.

Procedure: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for starting the saw. Typically, this involves engaging the choke, pulling the starter rope until the engine “pops,” disengaging the choke, and pulling the starter rope again to start the engine.
What to look for: The saw should start within a few pulls. Excessive pulling or difficulty starting can indicate a problem with the fuel system, ignition system, or compression.

The Idle Test: Smooth and Steady

Once the engine is running, let it idle for a few minutes.

What to listen for: The engine should idle smoothly and consistently. Any sputtering, stalling, or excessive vibration can indicate a problem with the carburetor or other components.

The Throttle Response Test: Power on Demand

Quickly engage the throttle and listen to how the engine responds.

What to listen for: The engine should rev up quickly and smoothly without hesitating or bogging down. A sluggish throttle response can indicate a problem with the carburetor or fuel system.

The Smoke Test: Identifying Potential Issues

Pay attention to the color and amount of smoke coming from the exhaust.

Blue smoke: Indicates that the engine is burning oil, which can be a sign of worn piston rings or valve seals.
Black smoke: Indicates that the engine is running too rich, which can be caused by a dirty air filter, a faulty carburetor, or other issues.
Excessive white smoke: Can indicate that the engine is burning coolant, which is a serious problem that requires immediate attention.

Pro Tip #3: The Bar and Chain Examination – Cutting Performance Matters

The bar and chain are essential for efficient and safe cutting. A worn or damaged bar and chain can reduce cutting performance and increase the risk of kickback.

The Bar Inspection: Straight and True

Straightness: The bar should be straight and free of any bends or twists.
Wear: Check the bar rails for wear. Excessive wear can cause the chain to fit loosely and increase the risk of derailment.
Damage: Look for any cracks, chips, or other damage to the bar.

The Chain Inspection: Sharp and Properly Tensioned

Sharpness: The chain should be sharp and properly filed. A dull chain will require more effort to cut and increase the risk of kickback.
Tension: The chain should be properly tensioned. A chain that’s too loose can derail, while a chain that’s too tight can bind and cause excessive wear.
Damage: Look for any broken or missing teeth on the chain.

Practical Tip: I always carry a chain filing kit with me when I’m working in the woods. A few quick strokes with a file can make a big difference in cutting performance.

The Sprocket Check: Smooth and Round

The sprocket is the part that drives the chain. A worn or damaged sprocket can cause the chain to skip or bind.

Wear: Check the sprocket teeth for wear. The teeth should be sharp and well-defined.
Damage: Look for any cracks, chips, or other damage to the sprocket.

Pro Tip #4: Negotiation Strategies – Getting the Best Deal

You’ve inspected the saw and you’re satisfied with its condition. Now it’s time to negotiate the price.

Research: Know the Market Value

Before you start negotiating, do your research and find out what similar MS360s are selling for in your area. This will give you a baseline for your offer.

Be Prepared to Walk Away

The most powerful negotiating tool is the ability to walk away. If the seller isn’t willing to meet your price, be prepared to move on to another saw.

Point Out Any Flaws

If you’ve identified any flaws during the inspection, use them as leverage to negotiate a lower price.

Offer a Fair Price

Don’t try to lowball the seller. Offer a fair price that reflects the saw’s condition and market value.

Consider the Cost of Repairs

If the saw needs any repairs, factor those costs into your offer.

Real-World Example: I once negotiated the price of an MS360 down by $100 by pointing out that it needed a new bar and chain. The seller was initially reluctant to budge on the price, but when I showed him the cost of a new bar and chain, he agreed to lower the price.

Pro Tip #5: Post-Purchase Maintenance – Protecting Your Investment

You’ve bought your MS360 Stihl. Congratulations! But the work doesn’t stop there. Proper maintenance is essential for keeping your saw running smoothly and prolonging its lifespan.

Regular Cleaning: Keeping it Tidy

Air filter: Clean the air filter regularly to ensure proper airflow. A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and cause the engine to run poorly.
Cylinder fins: Clean the cylinder fins to prevent overheating.
Bar and chain: Clean the bar and chain after each use to remove sawdust and debris.

Proper Lubrication: Keeping it Oiled

Chain oil: Use a high-quality chain oil to lubricate the bar and chain.
Fuel mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture (typically 50:1) to lubricate the engine.

Sharpening the Chain: Maintaining Cutting Efficiency

Sharpen the chain regularly to maintain cutting efficiency and reduce the risk of kickback.

Storing the Saw Properly: Protecting from the Elements

Store the saw in a dry, protected area to prevent rust and corrosion.

Unique Insight: Many people overlook the importance of using fresh fuel. Gasoline can degrade over time, especially when mixed with oil. Always use fresh fuel and drain the fuel tank if you’re not going to be using the saw for an extended period.

Regular Inspections: Catching Problems Early

Perform regular inspections to identify any potential problems before they become serious.

Professional Servicing: When to Call in the Experts

Don’t hesitate to take your saw to a qualified technician for servicing if you’re not comfortable performing repairs yourself.

Wood Anatomy and Properties: Understanding Your Material

Chainsaws are tools designed to cut wood, but wood itself is far from a uniform material. Understanding its anatomy and properties is crucial for efficient and safe cutting.

Hardwood vs. Softwood: A Fundamental Distinction

The terms “hardwood” and “softwood” refer to the type of tree, not necessarily the actual hardness of the wood. Hardwoods are typically deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves in the fall), while softwoods are typically coniferous trees (those with needles).

Hardwoods: Generally denser and more durable than softwoods. Examples include oak, maple, and cherry.
Softwoods: Generally less dense and easier to cut than hardwoods. Examples include pine, fir, and spruce.

Data Point: Oak, a common hardwood, has a Janka hardness rating of around 1,290 lbf, while pine, a common softwood, has a Janka hardness rating of around 380 lbf. The Janka hardness test measures the resistance of wood to indentation.

Grain Direction: Cutting with the Grain

The grain direction refers to the alignment of the wood fibers. Cutting with the grain is generally easier than cutting against the grain.

Moisture Content: A Key Factor in Cutting and Burning

The moisture content of wood refers to the amount of water it contains. Green wood (freshly cut wood) can have a moisture content of over 100%, while seasoned wood (wood that has been dried) can have a moisture content of 20% or less.

Cutting green wood: Easier to cut but heavier and more difficult to split.
Cutting seasoned wood: More difficult to cut but lighter and easier to split.
Burning green wood: Produces less heat and more smoke than burning seasoned wood.
Burning seasoned wood: Produces more heat and less smoke than burning green wood.

Practical Tip: I always try to season my firewood for at least six months before burning it. This allows the moisture content to decrease, resulting in a hotter, cleaner burn.

Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance Best Practices: Beyond the Chainsaw

While the chainsaw is the star of the show, other logging tools are essential for safe and efficient wood processing.

Axes and Mauls: Splitting Wood

Axes and mauls are used for splitting wood. Axes have a sharp blade for splitting smaller pieces of wood, while mauls have a blunt head for splitting larger pieces of wood.

Wedges: Assisting in Splitting

Wedges are used to assist in splitting wood. They are driven into cracks in the wood to force it apart.

Cant Hooks and Peavies: Moving Logs

Cant hooks and peavies are used to move and rotate logs.

Chainsaw Safety Gear: Protecting Yourself

Safety gear is essential for protecting yourself from injury while using a chainsaw.

Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
Eye protection: Protects your eyes from sawdust and debris.
Hearing protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Chainsaw chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
Steel-toed boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and debris.

Case Study: A study by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) found that wearing chainsaw chaps reduced the risk of leg injuries by 45%.

Maintenance Best Practices: Keeping Your Tools in Top Condition

Sharpening: Keep your axes, mauls, and chainsaw chains sharp.
Cleaning: Clean your tools after each use to remove dirt and debris.
Lubrication: Lubricate your tools to prevent rust and corrosion.
Storage: Store your tools in a dry, protected area.

Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations: Preparing for Winter

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying it to reduce its moisture content. Seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently than green firewood.

Stacking Methods: Optimizing Airflow

The traditional stack: Stacking the wood in rows, leaving space between each row for airflow.
The round stack: Stacking the wood in a circular pattern, leaving a hollow center for airflow.
The crib stack: Stacking the wood in a crisscross pattern, creating a stable and well-ventilated stack.

Personal Experience: I’ve found that the crib stack is the most stable and well-ventilated method for seasoning firewood.

Covering the Wood: Protecting from Rain and Snow

Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect it from rain and snow.

Safety Considerations: Preventing Accidents

Stacking the woodpile on a stable surface.
Wearing gloves and eye protection when handling firewood.
Being aware of your surroundings.

Project Planning and Execution: A Step-by-Step Guide

Planning and executing a wood processing or firewood preparation project can seem daunting, but breaking it down into manageable steps can make the process much easier.

Defining Your Goals: What Do You Want to Achieve?

How much firewood do you need?
What type of wood do you want to process?
What tools and equipment do you have available?

Assessing Your Resources: What Do You Have to Work With?

Land: Do you have access to land where you can cut wood?
Time: How much time do you have to dedicate to the project?
Money: How much money are you willing to spend on tools and equipment?

Creating a Timeline: Setting Realistic Deadlines

When do you need to have the firewood seasoned by?
How long will it take to cut, split, and stack the wood?

Executing the Project: Step-by-Step

Gather your tools and equipment.
Cut the wood.
Split the wood.
Stack the wood.
Cover the wood.
Season the wood.

Actionable Advice: Don’t try to do too much at once. Break the project down into smaller, more manageable tasks.

Concluding Thoughts: From Buyer to Confident Owner

Navigating the used chainsaw market, especially when searching for a specific model like the MS360 Stihl, requires a blend of knowledge, patience, and a bit of detective work. I hope these pro tips have armed you with the tools you need to make a smart purchase and avoid the pitfalls that can turn a great deal into a costly headache.

Remember, the MS360 is a fantastic saw, a true workhorse that can provide years of reliable service. By taking the time to thoroughly inspect potential purchases, negotiate effectively, and maintain your saw properly, you can ensure that you get the most out of your investment.

Now, get out there, find that perfect MS360, and get to work! The satisfaction of processing your own wood and preparing for the winter is a reward in itself. And with a little luck, you’ll be enjoying the warmth of a crackling fire, fueled by wood you cut with a chainsaw you bought with confidence.