MS290 Chain Size Guide (5 Expert Tips For Optimal Performance)

Imagine a world where your chainsaw, instead of being a source of frustration and inefficiency, becomes an extension of your own skill and precision. This transformation isn’t about buying the most expensive model; it’s about understanding the nuances of your current saw, specifically the often-overlooked aspect of chain size and maintenance. As someone who has spent countless hours in the woods, felling trees, processing timber, and preparing firewood, I’ve learned that the right chain, properly maintained, can dramatically improve your chainsaw’s performance, safety, and longevity. In this guide, I’ll share my expert tips to help you unlock the full potential of your Stihl MS290 chainsaw by mastering its chain.

MS290 Chain Size Guide: 5 Expert Tips for Optimal Performance

The Stihl MS290 is a popular and reliable chainsaw, known for its power and versatility. However, even the best chainsaw is only as good as its chain. Choosing the right chain and keeping it properly maintained is crucial for efficient cutting, safety, and extending the life of your saw. This guide will walk you through the essential aspects of selecting and maintaining the correct chain for your MS290.

1. Understanding MS290 Chain Specifications

Before diving into the specifics, let’s clarify the key measurements and terminology related to chainsaw chains. These specs are crucial for ensuring you purchase the correct chain for your MS290.

Pitch: The pitch is the distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. It’s usually expressed in inches. The MS290 typically uses a 3/8″ pitch chain. This is a very common size, making chains readily available.
Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the drive links, which fit into the guide bar groove. The MS290 usually uses a .063″ (1.6mm) gauge. Using the correct gauge ensures the chain fits snugly and runs smoothly in the bar.
Drive Links: The number of drive links determines the overall length of the chain. This is specific to the length of the guide bar you’re using on your MS290.
Chain Type: Different chain types are designed for different purposes. Common types include:
- Full Chisel: Aggressive cutting, best for clean wood, requires more skill to sharpen.
- Semi-Chisel: More forgiving, good for general-purpose cutting, stays sharper longer in dirty conditions.
- Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): Reduced kickback, good for beginners, slower cutting speed.
- Ripping Chain: Specialized chain for cutting with the grain of the wood, often used in sawmills or for making lumber.

Finding the Right Numbers:

The easiest way to determine the correct chain size for your MS290 is to consult your owner’s manual. The manual will specify the recommended pitch, gauge, and the number of drive links for different bar lengths. You can also often find this information printed on the guide bar itself, near the saw body. For example, the guide bar might say “3/8″ .063 72DL,” which means 3/8″ pitch, .063″ gauge, and 72 drive links.

Personal Story: I once made the mistake of buying a chain with the wrong gauge for my MS290. The chain appeared to fit, but it was too loose in the guide bar groove. This caused excessive vibration and uneven cutting, and ultimately damaged the guide bar. Always double-check the specifications before purchasing a new chain.

Data Point: According to Stihl’s official documentation, the MS290 can accommodate guide bars ranging from 16″ to 20″. The corresponding drive link counts will vary, so always verify the correct number. For a 16″ bar, you’ll typically need a chain with 62 drive links. For a 20″ bar, you’ll need around 72 drive links.

2. Selecting the Right Chain Type for Your Needs

Choosing the right chain type depends on the type of wood you’re cutting and your experience level.

Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory are denser and require a more aggressive chain. Softwoods like pine, fir, and cedar are easier to cut and can be handled with a less aggressive chain.
Clean Wood vs. Dirty Wood: If you’re cutting clean, seasoned wood, a full chisel chain will provide the fastest and most efficient cutting. If you’re cutting dirty wood, or wood that’s been lying on the ground, a semi-chisel chain is a better choice because it’s more resistant to dulling.
Experience Level: If you’re a beginner, a low-profile (micro-chisel) chain is a good option because it reduces the risk of kickback. However, it’s important to note that low-profile chains cut slower than full or semi-chisel chains.

Chain Types in Detail:

Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters that slice through wood quickly and efficiently. They are ideal for felling trees and cutting clean logs. However, they dull easily if they come into contact with dirt or rocks, and they are more prone to kickback.
- Benefit: Fastest cutting speed.
- Drawback: Dulls quickly, higher kickback risk.
- Skill Level: Intermediate to advanced.
Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded-corner cutters that are more forgiving and durable than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for general-purpose cutting, such as limbing, bucking firewood, and cutting dirty wood.
- Benefit: Good balance of speed and durability.
- Drawback: Slower than full chisel.
- Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate.
Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): These chains have small, rounded cutters that are designed to reduce kickback. They are a good choice for beginners and homeowners who are concerned about safety.
- Benefit: Reduced kickback.
- Drawback: Slowest cutting speed.
- Skill Level: Beginner.
Ripping Chain: These chains are specifically designed for cutting wood along the grain, as opposed to across it. The cutters are angled differently to produce a smoother, more efficient cut when ripping lumber.
- Benefit: Optimized for cutting with the grain.
- Drawback: Not suitable for cross-cutting.
- Skill Level: Intermediate to advanced.

Case Study: I once had a customer who was using a full chisel chain to cut firewood from logs that had been lying on the ground for several months. The chain was constantly dulling, and he was spending more time sharpening it than cutting. I recommended that he switch to a semi-chisel chain, and he immediately noticed a significant improvement in cutting performance and chain life.

Insight: Don’t be afraid to experiment with different chain types to see what works best for your specific needs. Consider buying a small loop of each type and testing them in different cutting conditions.

3. Sharpening Your Chain: The Key to Optimal Performance

A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting, safety, and extending the life of your chainsaw. A dull chain requires more force to cut, which puts strain on the engine and increases the risk of kickback.

When to Sharpen: You should sharpen your chain whenever it starts to feel dull. Signs of a dull chain include:
- The saw produces sawdust instead of chips.
- The saw requires more force to cut.
- The saw vibrates excessively.
- The saw pulls to one side.
Sharpening Tools: You can sharpen your chain using a variety of tools, including:
- Round File and File Guide: This is the most common and affordable method.
- Electric Chain Sharpener: This is a faster and more precise method, but it requires more investment.
- Bar-Mounted Sharpener: This is a convenient option for sharpening your chain in the field.
Sharpening Technique: The key to sharpening your chain correctly is to maintain the proper angle and depth. The correct angles will be specified in your owner’s manual or on the chain packaging.

Step-by-Step Sharpening Guide (Using a Round File and File Guide):

Secure the Saw: Place the chainsaw in a vise or clamp it securely to a workbench.
Engage the Chain Brake: This prevents the chain from moving while you’re sharpening.
Identify the Cutters: Locate the cutting teeth on the chain. These are the teeth that do the actual cutting.
Use a File Guide: Place the file guide on top of the cutter, aligning the arrows with the direction of the chain.
File the Cutter: Using a round file of the correct diameter (typically 5/32″ for a 3/8″ pitch chain), file the cutter from the inside out, following the angle of the file guide. Apply gentle, consistent pressure.
Count the Strokes: Count the number of strokes you make on each cutter to ensure that they are all sharpened evenly.
Check the Depth Gauges: After sharpening the cutters, check the depth gauges (the small tabs in front of each cutter). If the depth gauges are too high, they will prevent the cutters from biting into the wood. Use a flat file and a depth gauge tool to file them down to the correct height.
Repeat for All Cutters: Repeat the process for all cutters on the chain.
Sharpen the Opposite Side: Rotate the saw and sharpen the cutters on the opposite side of the chain.
Inspect and Test: After sharpening, inspect the chain for any damaged or worn cutters. Test the chain by making a few cuts in a piece of wood. If the chain is sharp, it should produce clean, even chips.

Personal Experience: I remember one time when I was felling trees in a remote area and my chain became dull. I didn’t have a file guide with me, so I had to sharpen the chain freehand. The result was a poorly sharpened chain that cut unevenly and vibrated excessively. From that day on, I always carry a file guide with me when I’m working in the woods.

Data Point: A study by Oregon Cutting Systems found that properly sharpened chains can increase cutting efficiency by up to 20%. This translates to less fuel consumption, less wear and tear on the saw, and faster cutting times.

4. Maintaining Your Chain and Guide Bar

Proper maintenance is crucial for extending the life of your chain and guide bar.

Chain Tension: Check the chain tension regularly. A properly tensioned chain should be snug on the guide bar, but you should still be able to pull it around the bar by hand. If the chain is too loose, it can derail and cause damage to the saw. If the chain is too tight, it can overheat and break.
Lubrication: Keep the chain and guide bar well-lubricated. Use a high-quality chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. A lack of lubrication will cause the chain and bar to overheat and wear out prematurely.
Guide Bar Maintenance: Regularly clean the guide bar groove to remove sawdust and debris. Use a guide bar dressing tool to remove any burrs or imperfections from the bar rails. Flip the guide bar periodically to ensure even wear.

Step-by-Step Maintenance Guide:

Chain Tension Adjustment:
- Loosen the bar nuts that secure the guide bar.
- Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the tension. Turn the screw clockwise to tighten the chain and counterclockwise to loosen it.
- The chain should be snug against the bar, but you should still be able to pull it around the bar by hand.
- Tighten the bar nuts securely.
Chain Lubrication:
- Check the oil level in the oil tank before each use.
- Use a high-quality chain oil that is specifically designed for chainsaws. I personally use Stihl bar and chain oil.
- Adjust the oiler flow rate as needed. In cold weather, you may need to increase the flow rate.
- Inspect the oiler port on the guide bar to ensure that it is not clogged.
Guide Bar Maintenance:
- Remove the chain and guide bar from the saw.
- Use a scraper or screwdriver to clean the groove in the guide bar.
- Use a guide bar dressing tool to remove any burrs or imperfections from the bar rails.
- Flip the guide bar periodically to ensure even wear.
- Inspect the guide bar for any signs of damage, such as cracks or bends. If the guide bar is damaged, replace it.

Original Insight: A common mistake I see is people using motor oil as chain oil. While it might seem like a cost-effective solution, motor oil doesn’t have the same tackiness and lubrication properties as chain oil. This leads to increased friction, overheating, and premature wear of the chain and guide bar.

Example: I had a friend who ignored my advice and used motor oil in his MS290. Within a few weeks, his chain was constantly dulling, and his guide bar was showing signs of excessive wear. He eventually had to replace both the chain and the guide bar, costing him more money in the long run.

5. Safety Considerations When Working with Chainsaws

Chainsaws are powerful tools that can be dangerous if not used properly. Always follow these safety precautions:

Wear appropriate safety gear: This includes a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chaps, and sturdy boots.
Read the owner’s manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s features and safety instructions.
Maintain a safe working distance: Keep bystanders and pets at least twice the length of the bar away from the cutting area.
Be aware of kickback: Kickback is a sudden, uncontrolled movement of the chainsaw that can cause serious injury. Avoid cutting with the upper tip of the bar, which is the most common cause of kickback.
Use proper felling techniques: If you’re felling trees, use proper felling techniques to avoid being struck by the falling tree.
Never operate a chainsaw while under the influence of drugs or alcohol: This will impair your judgment and increase the risk of accidents.
Inspect the work area: Clear the area of debris, obstacles, and potential hazards before starting to cut.

Specific Safety Gear in Detail:

Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris. Look for a helmet that meets ANSI Z89.1 standards.
Eye Protection: Prevents sawdust and debris from entering your eyes. Wear safety glasses or a face shield.
Hearing Protection: Chainsaws can generate high levels of noise that can damage your hearing. Wear earplugs or earmuffs.
Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions. Wear sturdy work gloves with good grip.
Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts. Chaps are made from ballistic nylon or other cut-resistant materials.
Boots: Provide ankle support and protect your feet from injury. Wear sturdy work boots with steel toes.

Personal Story: I once witnessed a near-fatal accident involving a chainsaw. A homeowner was cutting a tree branch without wearing proper safety gear. The branch kicked back and struck him in the face, causing serious injuries. He was lucky to survive. This incident reinforced the importance of always wearing appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw.

Statistics: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause approximately 30,000 injuries each year in the United States. Most of these injuries are preventable by following basic safety precautions.

Remember: Safety is always the top priority when working with chainsaws. Take the time to learn how to use your chainsaw safely and always wear appropriate safety gear.

Strategic Insight: Investing in quality safety gear is not an expense; it’s an investment in your well-being and peace of mind. Don’t compromise on safety to save a few dollars.

Bonus Tip: Understanding Wood Types and Their Impact on Chain Wear

The type of wood you’re cutting significantly affects chain wear and performance. Understanding the properties of different wood types can help you choose the right chain and adjust your cutting technique accordingly.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood (freshly cut wood) has a high moisture content, which can make it more difficult to cut. Seasoned wood (wood that has been dried) is easier to cut and produces less sawdust.
- Green Wood: Higher moisture content, more difficult to cut, dulls chains faster.
- Seasoned Wood: Lower moisture content, easier to cut, less chain wear.
Resinous Wood: Woods like pine and fir contain a lot of resin, which can gum up the chain and guide bar. Clean your chain and guide bar frequently when cutting resinous wood.
Dense Hardwoods: Woods like oak, maple, and hickory are very dense and can be hard on chains. Use a sharp chain and avoid forcing the saw.

Wood Density and Chain Selection:

Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Cedar): Semi-chisel or low-profile chains are suitable. Frequent sharpening is still important.
Medium Hardwoods (Poplar, Birch, Cherry): Semi-chisel chains are a good all-around choice.
Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Hickory): Full chisel chains will provide the best cutting performance, but require careful sharpening.

Practical Example: When cutting pine logs for firewood, I often use a semi-chisel chain and clean the chain and guide bar with a solvent like kerosene after each day of use to remove resin buildup. This helps to prevent the chain from dulling prematurely and extends the life of the guide bar.

Next Steps:

Review Your Owner’s Manual: Re-familiarize yourself with the specific recommendations for your MS290 model.
Inspect Your Current Chain: Assess the condition of your chain and determine if it needs sharpening or replacement.
Purchase the Correct Chain: Based on your needs and the type of wood you’ll be cutting, select the appropriate chain type and size.
Practice Sharpening: Hone your sharpening skills using a round file and file guide or an electric chain sharpener.
Implement a Maintenance Routine: Establish a regular maintenance routine that includes checking chain tension, lubricating the chain and guide bar, and cleaning the guide bar groove.
Prioritize Safety: Always wear appropriate safety gear and follow safe operating procedures when using your chainsaw.

By following these expert tips, you can unlock the full potential of your Stihl MS290 chainsaw and enjoy years of efficient and safe cutting. Remember, a well-maintained chain is not only essential for performance but also for your safety. Happy cutting!

MS290 Chain Size Guide (5 Expert Tips for Optimal Performance)