MS290 20 Inch Chain Setup For Optimal Cutting (Pro Tips Inside)

Okay, let’s get this done. A common issue I see with the Stihl MS290, and many chainsaws for that matter, is improper chain setup leading to poor cutting performance. It’s a quick fix, but overlooked often. I’m going to delve into everything you need to know to optimize your MS290’s 20-inch chain setup. I’ll cover chain selection, bar considerations, sharpening techniques, maintenance, and pro tips I’ve learned over years of working with chainsaws in timber harvesting and firewood production.

MS290 20-Inch Chain Setup for Optimal Cutting (Pro Tips Inside)

The Stihl MS290 is a workhorse of a chainsaw, popular for its reliability and power. However, even the best chainsaw is only as good as its chain and bar. A poorly chosen or maintained chain setup can lead to slow cutting, increased wear and tear on the saw, and even dangerous kickback situations. This guide will walk you through selecting the right chain, ensuring proper bar setup, mastering sharpening techniques, and implementing essential maintenance practices to get the most out of your MS290.

Understanding the Importance of a Properly Set Up Chain

A well-configured chain setup is more than just slapping a chain on a bar. It’s about matching the chain to the task at hand, ensuring proper tension, keeping the chain sharp, and maintaining the bar. The benefits are numerous:

Increased Cutting Efficiency: A sharp, properly tensioned chain cuts faster and more efficiently, saving you time and effort.
Reduced Strain on the Chainsaw: A dull chain forces the saw to work harder, leading to increased wear and tear on the engine and other components.
Improved Safety: A sharp chain is less likely to kick back, reducing the risk of accidents.
Longer Chain and Bar Life: Proper maintenance extends the lifespan of both the chain and the bar, saving you money in the long run.
Cleaner Cuts: A sharp chain produces cleaner, more precise cuts, which is especially important for woodworking or milling applications.

Key Terminology and Concepts

Before diving into the specifics, let’s define some key terms:

Pitch: The distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain divided by two. Common pitches for the MS290 include .325″ and 3/8″.
Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. The MS290 typically uses a .063″ gauge.
Drive Links: The small metal pieces on the chain that engage with the sprocket on the chainsaw.
Cutter: The part of the chain that actually does the cutting. It consists of a top plate, side plate, and depth gauge.
Depth Gauge (Raker): The small projection in front of each cutter that controls the depth of the cut.
Bar Groove: The slot in the chainsaw bar that the chain runs in.
Green Wood: Wood that is freshly cut and has a high moisture content.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry, reducing its moisture content.
Kickback: A sudden and forceful reaction of the chainsaw that can occur when the tip of the bar contacts an object.

Step 1: Chain Selection

Choosing the right chain is crucial for optimal cutting performance. The MS290, with its 20-inch bar, can handle a variety of chain types, but understanding the differences is key.

Chain Types

Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters that are very aggressive and fast-cutting. They are best suited for clean wood and experienced users due to their increased risk of kickback. I’ve used these extensively in softwood logging operations, particularly with pine and fir. The speed is unmatched, but you need to be vigilant about keeping them away from dirt and rocks.
Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded-corner cutters that are more forgiving and less prone to kickback than full chisel chains. They are a good all-around choice for general cutting tasks, including dirty wood and occasional brush. In my experience, semi-chisel chains hold their edge longer in abrasive conditions, making them ideal for firewood cutting where the wood might have some dirt embedded in the bark.
Low-Profile (Safety) Chains: These chains have features designed to reduce kickback, such as bumper drive links and depth gauges. They are a good choice for beginners or those who are concerned about safety.
Ripping Chains: These chains are specifically designed for cutting wood along the grain, such as when milling lumber. They have a different cutter geometry than cross-cutting chains. I once used a ripping chain on my MS290 to mill some cedar logs into planks for a shed. The difference in cutting speed and smoothness compared to a standard cross-cutting chain was remarkable.

Matching the Chain to the Task

Clean Wood (Felling, Limbing): Full chisel chains are your best bet for speed and efficiency. However, be mindful of kickback.
Dirty Wood (Firewood, Demolition): Semi-chisel chains offer a good balance of cutting performance and durability.
Hardwood: Semi-chisel or full chisel chains, depending on the hardness of the wood and your experience level.
Softwood: Full chisel chains are ideal for fast cutting.
Milling: Ripping chains are essential for cutting along the grain.
General Purpose: Semi-chisel chains are a versatile option for a variety of tasks.

Chain Specifications for MS290 with 20-Inch Bar

Pitch: .325″ or 3/8″ (check your sprocket to confirm)
Gauge: .063″
Drive Links: Typically 72 (for a 20-inch bar, but always verify)

Pro Tip: Always count the number of drive links on your old chain before replacing it. This ensures you get the correct length. When buying a chain, I always purchase a few at a time to save on shipping and have spares on hand.

Step 2: Bar Setup

The chainsaw bar provides the guide for the chain and plays a crucial role in cutting performance. Proper bar setup involves ensuring the bar is in good condition, correctly mounted, and adequately lubricated.

Bar Inspection and Maintenance

Check for Wear: Inspect the bar for wear and tear, such as burrs, uneven wear, or a widened bar groove. A worn bar can cause the chain to bind or derail.
Clean the Bar Groove: Use a bar groove cleaner or a small screwdriver to remove debris from the bar groove. This ensures smooth chain movement.
Dress the Bar: Use a bar dressing tool (or a flat file if you’re careful) to remove burrs and even out the edges of the bar. This helps prevent chain damage and improves cutting performance.
Check Bar Rail Squareness: Use a bar rail gauge to check if the bar rails are square. Uneven rails can cause the chain to cut crooked.
Lubricate the Bar: Ensure the bar oiler is working properly and that the bar is receiving adequate lubrication. Insufficient lubrication can cause the bar to overheat and wear out prematurely.

My Experience: I once had a bar that was so worn it was pinching the chain, causing the saw to bog down. I tried to salvage it by dressing the bar, but the groove was too wide. Replacing the bar made a world of difference in cutting performance.

Mounting the Bar and Chain

Loosen the Bar Nuts: Use the wrench provided with your chainsaw to loosen the bar nuts.
Remove the Old Chain: Carefully remove the old chain from the bar groove and the sprocket.
Inspect the Sprocket: Check the sprocket for wear and tear. Replace it if necessary.
Place the New Chain: Place the new chain around the sprocket and into the bar groove, ensuring the cutters are facing the correct direction (they should point forward on the top of the bar).
Mount the Bar: Place the bar onto the saw, aligning the bar studs with the holes in the bar.
Adjust the Chain Tension: Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand. When you pull the chain away from the bar at the midpoint, you should be able to see about 1/8″ – 1/4″ of the drive links.
Tighten the Bar Nuts: Tighten the bar nuts securely.
Check the Tension Again: After tightening the bar nuts, check the chain tension again and readjust if necessary.

Pro Tip: When mounting the chain, make sure the drive links are fully seated in the bar groove. This prevents the chain from derailing. I always rotate the chain around the bar a few times after mounting it to ensure it’s running smoothly.

Bar Oil: Choosing the Right Lubricant

Using the correct bar oil is essential for keeping the bar and chain properly lubricated.

Viscosity: Choose a bar oil with the appropriate viscosity for the temperature conditions. Thicker oils are better for hot weather, while thinner oils are better for cold weather.
Tackiness: Look for a bar oil that is “tacky,” meaning it clings to the bar and chain. This helps prevent the oil from being thrown off during cutting.
Biodegradability: Consider using a biodegradable bar oil to reduce your environmental impact.
Additives: Some bar oils contain additives that help prevent rust and corrosion.

My Recommendation: I prefer using a high-quality bar oil specifically designed for chainsaws. It may cost a bit more, but it provides superior lubrication and protection. I’ve also experimented with vegetable-based bar oils, which work well and are environmentally friendly.

Step 3: Chain Sharpening

A sharp chain is essential for efficient and safe cutting. A dull chain not only cuts slower but also puts more strain on the chainsaw and increases the risk of kickback.

Identifying a Dull Chain

Slow Cutting: A dull chain will cut slowly and require more force to push through the wood.
Fine Sawdust: A sharp chain produces large, thick chips. A dull chain produces fine sawdust.
Smoking: A dull chain will generate excessive heat and smoke.
Pulling to One Side: A dull chain may pull to one side while cutting.

Sharpening Tools

Round File: Used to sharpen the cutters. The correct file size depends on the chain pitch (typically 5/32″ or 3/16″ for the MS290).
Flat File: Used to lower the depth gauges (rakers).
File Guide: Helps maintain the correct sharpening angle and depth.
Depth Gauge Tool: Used to measure the depth gauge height.
Vise: Holds the chainsaw bar securely during sharpening.

Sharpening Procedure

Secure the Bar: Place the chainsaw bar in a vise to hold it securely.
Identify the Correct Angle: Use a file guide to determine the correct sharpening angle for your chain. This is typically marked on the file guide.
Sharpen the Cutters:
- Place the round file in the cutter at the correct angle, using the file guide as a reference.
- Push the file forward and slightly upward, following the curve of the cutter.
- Repeat this process several times until the cutter is sharp.
- Sharpen each cutter on the chain, maintaining a consistent angle and number of strokes.
Lower the Depth Gauges:
- Use a depth gauge tool to measure the height of the depth gauges (rakers).
- If the depth gauges are too high, use a flat file to lower them.
- File the depth gauges evenly, ensuring they are all the same height.
- Round off the front of the depth gauges with the flat file.
Check Your Work: After sharpening, inspect the cutters and depth gauges to ensure they are all uniform and sharp.

My Sharpening Routine: I sharpen my chains after every few tanks of gas, or more often if I’m cutting dirty wood. I use a file guide to maintain the correct angle and depth, and I always check my work with a magnifying glass to ensure the cutters are sharp and uniform. I’ve also invested in a chainsaw chain grinder, which makes sharpening faster and more precise, especially when dealing with multiple chains.

Pro Tips for Sharpening

Maintain a Consistent Angle: The angle at which you sharpen the cutters is crucial for cutting performance. Use a file guide to ensure you maintain a consistent angle.
Use Light Pressure: Avoid applying too much pressure when sharpening. Let the file do the work.
Sharpen All Cutters Equally: Sharpen each cutter on the chain equally to ensure the chain cuts straight.
Keep Your Files Clean: Clean your files regularly with a file card to remove metal filings.
Consider a Chain Grinder: For frequent sharpening, a chain grinder can save time and effort.
Avoid Over-Sharpening: Over-sharpening can weaken the cutters and reduce the lifespan of the chain.

Step 4: Chain Maintenance

Regular chain maintenance is essential for extending the life of your chain and maintaining optimal cutting performance.

Cleaning

Remove Debris: After each use, remove any debris from the chain, such as sawdust, pitch, and dirt.
Clean with Solvent: Use a solvent, such as kerosene or mineral spirits, to clean the chain thoroughly.
Dry the Chain: After cleaning, dry the chain completely to prevent rust and corrosion.

Lubrication

Oil the Chain: Regularly oil the chain with bar oil to keep it lubricated.
Check the Oiler: Ensure the bar oiler is working properly and that the chain is receiving adequate lubrication.

Tensioning

Check Tension Regularly: Check the chain tension regularly, especially during the first few cuts with a new chain.
Adjust Tension as Needed: Adjust the chain tension as needed to maintain the correct tension.
Proper Tension: The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand.

Storage

Store in Oil: Store the chain in a container of bar oil to prevent rust and corrosion.
Keep Dry: Store the chain in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion.

Chain Rotation

Use Multiple Chains: If you use your chainsaw frequently, consider using multiple chains and rotating them. This allows each chain to cool down and reduces wear and tear.

My Maintenance Routine: I clean and lubricate my chains after every use. I also check the tension regularly and adjust it as needed. I store my chains in a container of bar oil when not in use. I also rotate my chains to extend their lifespan.

Step 5: Safety Considerations

Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous. Always follow safety precautions to minimize the risk of accidents.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw cuts.

Safe Operating Practices

Read the Manual: Read and understand the chainsaw’s operating manual before using it.
Start the Chainsaw Safely: Start the chainsaw on the ground, with your foot firmly planted on the rear handle.
Maintain a Firm Grip: Hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands.
Keep Your Balance: Maintain a stable stance and keep your balance while cutting.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and avoid cutting near obstacles or people.
Avoid Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback and take precautions to avoid it.
Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and increases the risk of accidents.
Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
Never Operate Under the Influence: Never operate a chainsaw under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

Kickback Prevention

Use a Low-Kickback Chain: Use a low-kickback chain, especially if you are a beginner.
Avoid Contact with the Tip of the Bar: Be careful to avoid contacting the tip of the bar with any object.
Maintain a Sharp Chain: A sharp chain is less likely to kick back.
Hold the Chainsaw Firmly: Hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands to maintain control.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and avoid cutting near obstacles that could cause kickback.

My Safety Philosophy: I always prioritize safety when operating a chainsaw. I wear all the necessary PPE, follow safe operating practices, and am constantly aware of the risk of kickback. I’ve seen too many accidents to take chainsaw safety lightly.

Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Production with the MS290

Let’s consider a scenario: I’m preparing firewood from a fallen oak tree. The tree is approximately 24 inches in diameter, and I need to cut it into 16-inch lengths.

Challenges:

Oak is a hardwood, requiring a sharp chain and sufficient power.
The tree has been on the ground for a few months, so the wood is likely to be somewhat dirty.

Solution:

Chain Selection: I’d opt for a semi-chisel chain with a .325″ pitch and .063″ gauge. This provides a good balance of cutting performance and durability in dirty hardwood.
Bar Setup: I’d ensure the bar is clean, properly lubricated, and the chain is tensioned correctly.
Sharpening: I’d sharpen the chain before starting and touch it up as needed throughout the process.
Cutting Technique:
- I’d start by limbing the tree, removing any branches that are in the way.
- I’d then buck the tree into 16-inch lengths, using a measuring stick to ensure consistent cuts.
- I’d use a felling wedge to prevent the bar from pinching when cutting larger logs.
- I’d be mindful of kickback and avoid contacting the tip of the bar with the ground or other objects.
Splitting: After bucking the logs, I’d split them into smaller pieces using a hydraulic log splitter. Oak can be difficult to split by hand, especially when it’s green.
Stacking: I’d stack the firewood in a well-ventilated area to allow it to season properly. Oak typically takes 12-18 months to season.

Strategic Advantages:

Using a semi-chisel chain minimizes downtime for sharpening due to dirt.
A hydraulic log splitter significantly increases the speed and efficiency of splitting.
Proper stacking ensures the firewood seasons quickly and burns efficiently.

Measurements and Specifications:

Assess Your Needs: Determine the types of cutting tasks you’ll be performing and choose the appropriate chain type.
Inspect Your Bar: Check your chainsaw bar for wear and tear and perform any necessary maintenance.
Sharpen Your Chain: Learn how to sharpen your chain properly using a file or a chain grinder.
Practice Safe Operating Procedures: Always wear the necessary PPE and follow safe operating practices.
Start Small: Begin with smaller projects to gain experience and confidence.
Seek Professional Guidance: If you’re unsure about any aspect of chainsaw operation, seek guidance from a qualified professional.

By following these steps, you can optimize your MS290’s 20-inch chain setup for optimal cutting performance and ensure safe and efficient operation. Remember, a well-maintained chainsaw is a valuable tool that can provide years of reliable service.