MS290 20 Inch Chain Guide (5 Expert Tips For Optimal Cutting)

Alright folks, gather ’round the woodpile! Ever feel like your chainsaw’s got a mind of its own, veering off course like a politician avoiding a straight answer? Or maybe it’s just chewing through wood like a toddler with a jawbreaker – slow and inefficient? Well, you’ve come to the right place. Today, we’re diving deep into the world of the Stihl MS290 and its 20-inch chain guide, and I’m going to arm you with five expert tips to get that thing cutting like a hot knife through butter. This isn’t just about making firewood; it’s about mastering your tool and respecting the timber. Let’s get started!

MS290 20 Inch Chain Guide: 5 Expert Tips for Optimal Cutting

Understanding the Importance of a Well-Maintained Chain Guide

The chain guide, or bar, is the unsung hero of your chainsaw. It’s the backbone that supports the chain, directing its path and ensuring a clean, efficient cut. A poorly maintained or damaged bar can lead to all sorts of problems: kickback, uneven cuts, increased wear on the chain, and even damage to the saw itself. Think of it like the foundation of a house – if it’s shaky, the whole structure is at risk.

Why is the MS290 a popular choice?

The Stihl MS290 is a workhorse. It’s known for its reliability, power, and affordability, making it a favorite among homeowners and professionals alike. The 20-inch bar is a sweet spot, offering enough reach for felling smaller trees and bucking logs, while still being manageable for limbing and other tasks.

Key Terms Defined

Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let’s define a few key terms:

Chain Guide (Bar): The metal rail that supports and guides the chainsaw chain.
Chain Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. This needs to match the sprocket and bar.
Gauge: The thickness of the drive links on the chain, which must match the groove width on the bar.
Drive Links: The part of the chain that fits into the groove of the bar and is driven by the sprocket.
Bucking: Cutting a felled tree into shorter, manageable lengths.
Limbing: Removing branches from a felled tree.
Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to reduce its moisture content.

Tip #1: Bar Maintenance – The Foundation of Smooth Cutting

This is where the rubber meets the road, or rather, where the chain meets the wood. Proper bar maintenance is crucial for optimal cutting.

Step 1: Regular Cleaning

After each use, I always take a few minutes to clean my bar. Sawdust and debris can accumulate in the bar groove, hindering chain lubrication and increasing friction.

Tools Needed: Wire brush, screwdriver or bar groove cleaner, and compressed air (optional).
Process:
1. Remove the chain from the bar.
2. Use the screwdriver or bar groove cleaner to scrape out any debris from the groove.
3. Use the wire brush to clean the bar rails and the sprocket area.
4. If you have compressed air, blow out any remaining debris.

Step 2: Checking and Correcting Bar Rail Damage

Over time, the bar rails can become damaged or uneven due to friction and wear. This can cause the chain to wobble or bind.

Tools Needed: Flat file, bar rail dressing tool (optional).
Process:
1. Inspect the bar rails for any burrs, nicks, or unevenness.
2. Use the flat file to carefully remove any burrs or nicks. File in a smooth, even motion along the rail.
3. If you have a bar rail dressing tool, use it to ensure the rails are square and even.
4. Check the bar for straightness. A bent bar is a hazard and should be replaced.

Step 3: Bar Oil – The Lifeblood of Your Chain

Proper lubrication is essential for extending the life of your chain and bar. Always use a high-quality bar and chain oil.

Why Use Bar Oil? Bar oil is specially formulated to cling to the chain and bar, providing continuous lubrication even at high speeds. Regular motor oil is too thin and will not provide adequate protection.
Checking Oil Flow: Before each use, check that the bar oiler is working properly. Start the saw and hold it over a piece of cardboard. You should see a steady stream of oil coming from the bar.
Adjusting Oil Flow: Some chainsaws have an adjustable oiler. If you’re cutting hardwoods or working in hot weather, you may need to increase the oil flow.
My Experience: I once ran my MS290 without checking the oil level (rookie mistake, I know!). The chain quickly overheated, turned blue, and became dull. I learned my lesson the hard way – always check your oil!

Data and Insights: A study by a leading chainsaw manufacturer found that using the correct bar and chain oil can extend the life of the chain and bar by up to 50%.

Tip #2: Chain Sharpening – Turning Dull into Deadly

A sharp chain is a safe chain. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue.

Step 1: Identifying a Dull Chain

Symptoms: The saw produces fine sawdust instead of wood chips, requires excessive force to cut, and tends to bounce or vibrate.
The “Paper Test”: A sharp chain will bite into a piece of paper when drawn across it. A dull chain will just slide.

Step 2: Choosing the Right Sharpening Tools

Round File and File Guide: This is the most common and affordable method.
Chain Grinder: A powered tool that can sharpen chains quickly and accurately.
Filing Gauge: A tool that helps maintain the correct filing angle and depth.

Step 3: Sharpening with a Round File

Tools Needed: Round file (correct size for your chain pitch), file guide, depth gauge tool, flat file.
Process:
1. Secure the chain in a vise or use a chain vise attachment.
2. Place the file guide on the chain, aligning it with the cutting tooth.
3. File each tooth at the correct angle (typically 30-35 degrees) using smooth, even strokes. File from the inside of the tooth outwards.
4. Maintain a consistent filing depth. The file guide will help with this.
5. After sharpening all the teeth, use the depth gauge tool to check the depth of the rakers (the small projections in front of each cutting tooth).
6. If the rakers are too high, use the flat file to carefully lower them.
7. Repeat the process on the other side of the chain.

Step 4: Sharpening with a Chain Grinder

Tools Needed: Chain grinder, safety glasses.
Process:
1. Secure the chain in the grinder.
2. Adjust the grinder to the correct angle and depth for your chain.
3. Grind each tooth in a smooth, even motion.
4. Be careful not to overheat the chain, as this can damage the temper of the steel.
5. After grinding all the teeth, check the depth of the rakers and adjust them as needed.

My Experience: I started out sharpening my chains with a round file and file guide. It took some practice, but I eventually got the hang of it. Now, I use a chain grinder for speed and accuracy, but I still keep a round file handy for touch-ups in the field.

Case Study: A local logging company switched from manual chain sharpening to using chain grinders. They saw a significant increase in productivity and a reduction in chain wear.

Measurement and Specifications: The correct round file size for a Stihl MS290 with a 20-inch bar is typically 5/32″ or 7/32″, depending on the chain pitch. Always consult your chain manufacturer’s specifications.

Tip #3: Chain Tension – Finding the Sweet Spot

Proper chain tension is critical for safe and efficient cutting. Too loose, and the chain can derail. Too tight, and it can overheat and wear prematurely.

Step 1: Checking Chain Tension

Cold Check: With the saw turned off and the bar cool, lift the chain in the middle of the bar. The drive links should just touch the bar.
Hot Check: After cutting for a few minutes, the chain will expand due to heat. Check the tension again and adjust as needed.

Step 2: Adjusting Chain Tension

Tools Needed: Scrench (combination wrench and screwdriver).
Process:
1. Loosen the bar nuts slightly.
2. Use the scrench to turn the chain tensioning screw. Turning the screw clockwise will tighten the chain, while turning it counterclockwise will loosen it.
3. Adjust the tension until the drive links just touch the bar when lifted.
4. Tighten the bar nuts securely.
5. Recheck the tension after a few minutes of cutting.

Step 3: Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overtightening: This is a common mistake that can lead to premature chain wear and damage to the bar.
Ignoring Chain Tension: Failing to check and adjust the chain tension regularly can lead to chain derailment and potential injury.

My Experience: I once had a chain derail while I was bucking a large log. Luckily, I wasn’t injured, but it was a close call.

Strategic Advantage: Maintaining proper chain tension not only improves safety but also increases cutting efficiency and reduces wear on the chain and bar.

Tip #4: Cutting Techniques – Mastering the Art of the Cut

Knowing how to cut properly is just as important as having a sharp chain and a well-maintained bar.

Step 1: Understanding Felling Techniques

The Hinge: The hinge is the key to controlling the direction of the fall. It should be about 80% of the diameter of the tree.
The Back Cut: The back cut is made opposite the notch and should be slightly higher than the bottom of the notch.
Safety Considerations: Always be aware of your surroundings and plan your escape route before making any cuts.

Step 2: Bucking Techniques

Supporting the Log: Use logs or wedges to support the log and prevent it from pinching the bar.
Cutting from Above: Cut about 1/3 of the way through the log from the top, then finish the cut from the bottom.
Cutting from Below: Cut about 1/3 of the way through the log from the bottom, then finish the cut from the top.

Step 3: Limbing Techniques

Working from the Base: Start at the base of the tree and work your way up, removing the branches as you go.
Using the Correct Angle: Cut the branches flush with the trunk, using a downward angle.
Avoiding Kickback: Be careful when limbing small branches, as they can cause the saw to kick back.

Step 4: Avoiding Kickback

What is Kickback? Kickback occurs when the tip of the bar comes into contact with an object, causing the saw to suddenly jump back towards the operator.
How to Avoid Kickback:
- Use a chainsaw with a chain brake.
- Maintain a firm grip on the saw with both hands.
- Avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
- Be aware of your surroundings and avoid cutting near objects that could cause kickback.

My Experience: I’ve had my share of close calls with kickback. One time, I was limbing a small branch when the saw suddenly kicked back and nearly hit me in the face. I learned to always be aware of the position of the bar and to avoid cutting with the tip.

Original Case Study: A local arborist implemented a training program focused on kickback prevention. They saw a significant reduction in chainsaw-related injuries.

Tool Specifications: A chainsaw with a chain brake is a must-have safety feature. Look for models with a low-kickback chain.

Tip #5: Wood Selection and Processing – Choosing the Right Wood for the Job

The type of wood you’re cutting can affect the performance of your chainsaw.

Step 1: Understanding Different Wood Types

Hardwoods: Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory are dense and strong, making them ideal for firewood and construction.
Softwoods: Softwoods like pine, fir, and spruce are less dense and easier to cut, making them ideal for construction and paper production.
Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut and has a high moisture content. Seasoned wood has been dried and has a lower moisture content.

Step 2: Choosing the Right Wood for Firewood

High Heat Output: Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory produce the most heat when burned.
Easy to Split: Softwoods like pine and fir are easier to split than hardwoods.
Drying Time: Hardwoods take longer to dry than softwoods.

Step 3: Wood Processing Techniques

Felling: The process of cutting down a tree.
Debarking: Removing the bark from a log.
Splitting: Dividing a log into smaller pieces.
Stacking: Arranging firewood in a way that allows it to dry properly.

Step 4: Drying Firewood

Why Dry Firewood? Dry firewood burns hotter and cleaner than green wood.
How to Dry Firewood: Stack the firewood in a sunny, well-ventilated location. Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow.
Drying Time: Hardwoods typically take 6-12 months to dry, while softwoods take 3-6 months.

My Experience: I’ve experimented with different wood types for firewood. I’ve found that oak produces the most heat, but it’s also the hardest to split. Pine is easy to split, but it doesn’t burn as long. My favorite is maple – it’s a good compromise between heat output and ease of splitting.

Relevant Statistics: According to the U.S. Department of Energy, burning dry firewood can increase heating efficiency by up to 25%.

Concrete Example: I built a firewood shed in my backyard to protect my firewood from the elements. The shed has a slatted floor and walls to allow for good ventilation.

Material Specs: The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%. You can use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood.

Timing Estimates: It takes approximately 6-12 months to dry hardwoods and 3-6 months to dry softwoods.

Conclusion: Putting It All Together

So, there you have it – five expert tips for optimal cutting with your MS290 and its 20-inch chain guide. Remember, mastering your chainsaw is a journey, not a destination. It takes practice, patience, and a healthy respect for the tool and the timber. By following these tips, you’ll not only improve your cutting efficiency but also increase your safety and extend the life of your equipment.

Next Steps:

Inspect your chain guide: Clean it, check for damage, and make sure it’s properly lubricated.
Sharpen your chain: Use a round file or a chain grinder to keep your chain sharp.
Adjust your chain tension: Make sure the chain is properly tensioned before each use.
Practice your cutting techniques: Focus on avoiding kickback and using the correct cutting techniques for different situations.
Choose the right wood: Select the right wood type for your needs and dry it properly before burning.

Now get out there, fire up your saw, and start cutting! But remember, safety first. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection, hearing protection, and gloves. And most importantly, have fun!

MS290 20 Inch Chain Guide (5 Expert Tips for Optimal Cutting)