MS261C Stihl Chainsaw (5 Expert Tips for Firewood Pros)

The MS261C Stihl isn’t just a chainsaw; it’s a firewood-making machine when wielded with the right knowledge.

I’ve spent over two decades immersed in the world of wood – from felling towering pines in the Pacific Northwest to meticulously splitting oak for winter warmth in the Northeast. In that time, I’ve come to rely on the Stihl MS261C as my go-to chainsaw for most firewood tasks. It’s a workhorse, balancing power, weight, and reliability in a way few other saws can match. But even the best tool is only as good as the person using it. This guide isn’t just about the MS261C; it’s about maximizing its potential for serious firewood production. I’m going to share five expert tips, honed from years of experience, that will transform how you approach firewood preparation.

Mastering the MS261C: Your Guide to Firewood Domination

This guide is designed to take you from novice to near-pro. We’ll cover everything from chainsaw selection and maintenance to strategic cutting techniques and wood seasoning strategies. I’ll share the hard-won lessons I’ve learned, the mistakes I’ve made, and the solutions I’ve discovered. Whether you’re a weekend warrior or a small-scale firewood business, these tips will help you work smarter, safer, and more efficiently.

Chainsaw Selection: Why the MS261C?

Before we dive into the tips, let’s address why the MS261C is such a popular choice. It’s not the biggest saw in Stihl’s lineup, nor is it the cheapest. But it occupies a sweet spot.

• Power-to-Weight Ratio: The MS261C boasts a 50.3 cc engine that delivers ample power for felling small to medium-sized trees and bucking larger logs. Crucially, it does this without being excessively heavy. At around 12 pounds (without the bar and chain), it’s manageable for extended use, reducing fatigue and increasing productivity.
• Durability: Stihl chainsaws are renowned for their robust construction. The MS261C is built to withstand the rigors of daily use. I’ve personally put mine through countless hours of hard labor, and it continues to perform reliably.
• User-Friendliness: While powerful, the MS261C is relatively easy to start and operate. Features like the Stihl Easy2Start system and the Master Control lever simplify the process, even for beginners.
• Versatility: The MS261C is suitable for a wide range of tasks, from felling and limbing to bucking and pruning. This versatility makes it a valuable tool for anyone involved in wood processing.

Of course, the “best” chainsaw depends on your specific needs. If you’re primarily dealing with very large trees, a larger saw like the MS462 might be a better choice. But for most firewood applications, the MS261C strikes an ideal balance.

Key Terms and Concepts

To ensure we’re all on the same page, let’s define a few key terms:

• Felling: The process of cutting down a tree.
• Limbing: Removing the branches from a felled tree.
• Bucking: Cutting a log into shorter lengths.
• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (typically above 30%).
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to a lower moisture content (ideally below 20%). Seasoned wood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.
• Bar: The metal guide that supports the chain.
• Chain: The cutting component of the chainsaw.
• Pitch: A sticky resin found in some types of wood, particularly conifers.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw.

Tip #1: Mastering the Bore Cut for Efficient Felling and Bucking

The bore cut is an advanced chainsaw technique that can significantly improve your efficiency and safety when felling trees and bucking large logs. It involves plunging the tip of the saw into the wood to create a cavity, allowing you to control the direction of the fall or relieve internal stresses within the log.

Understanding the Bore Cut

The traditional method of felling involves making a face cut (a notch) and then a back cut. While effective, this method can sometimes lead to unpredictable results, especially with leaning trees or those with internal defects. The bore cut offers more control.

Similarly, when bucking large logs, internal stresses can cause the saw to become pinched, making cutting difficult and potentially dangerous. The bore cut allows you to relieve these stresses before making the final cut.

Step-by-Step Guide to Performing a Bore Cut

Felling with a Bore Cut (Hinge Wood Control):

1. Assess the Tree: Before making any cuts, carefully assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any signs of decay or weakness. Clear the area around the tree and plan your escape route.
2. Make a Face Cut: Create a standard face cut (notch) on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The face cut should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
3. Begin the Bore Cut: Position yourself slightly to the side of the tree. Start your chainsaw and carefully plunge the tip of the bar into the tree behind the face cut, aiming for the center of the tree. Use the bumper spikes (if your saw has them) to pivot the saw into the wood.
4. Create the Hinge: Once the tip of the bar is through the tree, pivot the saw to create a hinge of wood between the bore cut and the face cut. The hinge is crucial for controlling the direction of the fall. The thickness of the hinge depends on the size of the tree, but it’s typically 1-2 inches.
5. Make the Felling Cut: Once the hinge is established, carefully make the felling cut from the back of the tree towards the hinge. Leave a small amount of wood uncut to prevent the tree from falling prematurely.
6. Wedge and Finish: Insert a felling wedge into the back cut to help direct the fall. Use a hammer or axe to drive the wedge in until the tree starts to lean in the desired direction. Make the final cut to sever the remaining wood and allow the tree to fall.

Bucking with a Bore Cut (Stress Relief):

1. Assess the Log: Examine the log for any signs of bending or tension. If the log is supported at both ends, it will be under compression on the top and tension on the bottom. If it’s supported in the middle, the opposite will be true.
2. Make the Bore Cut: Position yourself safely to the side of the log. Start your chainsaw and carefully plunge the tip of the bar into the log on the tension side, aiming for the center of the log.
3. Relieve the Stress: Once the tip of the bar is through the log, pivot the saw to create a small cavity. This will relieve the internal stresses and prevent the saw from becoming pinched.
4. Make the Bucking Cut: After relieving the stress, make the final bucking cut from the opposite side of the log.

Safety Considerations for Bore Cuts

• Kickback: The bore cut increases the risk of kickback, so it’s crucial to use proper technique and maintain a firm grip on the saw. Always keep the chain brake engaged when not actively cutting.
• Bar Length: Use a bar length appropriate for the size of the tree or log you’re cutting.
• Sharp Chain: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient bore cutting.
• Protective Gear: Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
• Experience: Practice the bore cut on smaller, less challenging pieces of wood before attempting it on larger trees or logs.

Case Study: Rescuing a Leaning Pine

I once had to fell a large pine tree that was leaning precariously towards a neighbor’s house. The traditional felling method was too risky, as it could have caused the tree to fall in the wrong direction. I used the bore cut technique to carefully control the fall. By creating a precise hinge, I was able to direct the tree away from the house and into an open area. Without the bore cut, the situation could have been much more dangerous.

Strategic Advantages of the Bore Cut

• Increased Control: The bore cut provides greater control over the direction of the fall, reducing the risk of damage to property or injury to personnel.
• Stress Relief: The bore cut relieves internal stresses in logs, preventing the saw from becoming pinched and making cutting easier and safer.
• Improved Efficiency: By relieving stress and providing more control, the bore cut can significantly improve your efficiency when felling trees and bucking logs.

Tip #2: Chain Sharpening: The Key to Peak Performance and Safety

A dull chainsaw chain is not only inefficient; it’s also dangerous. A sharp chain bites into the wood cleanly and smoothly, while a dull chain tends to bounce and grab, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. Regularly sharpening your chain is crucial for maintaining peak performance and ensuring your safety.

Understanding Chain Sharpening

Chainsaw chains have numerous cutting teeth, each of which needs to be sharpened to maintain its cutting edge. The process involves filing the top plate and side plate of each tooth at the correct angles.

Tools for Chain Sharpening

• Round File: Used to sharpen the cutting edges of the teeth. The correct file size depends on the chain pitch (the distance between the rivets on the chain). A 5/32″ file is common for many chains, but consult your chainsaw manual for the correct size.
• Flat File: Used to adjust the depth gauges (the small projections in front of each cutting tooth).
• File Guide: A tool that helps you maintain the correct filing angles.
• Depth Gauge Tool: A tool for checking and adjusting the depth gauges.
• Vise: A small vise that attaches to the chainsaw bar, providing a stable platform for sharpening.

Step-by-Step Guide to Sharpening Your Chain

1. Secure the Chainsaw: Place the chainsaw in a vise or clamp it securely to a workbench.
2. Identify the Sharpest Tooth: Find the tooth that appears to be the sharpest. This will serve as your reference point for sharpening the other teeth.
3. Position the File: Place the round file in the tooth, using the file guide to maintain the correct angles (typically 30 degrees for the top plate and 60 degrees for the side plate).
4. File the Tooth: Push the file forward along the tooth, following the existing angle. Use smooth, even strokes. File each tooth the same number of times to ensure consistent sharpness.
5. Repeat for All Teeth: Rotate the chain and repeat the filing process for all the teeth on the chain.
6. Adjust the Depth Gauges: Use the flat file and depth gauge tool to adjust the depth gauges. The depth gauges should be slightly lower than the cutting teeth. Consult your chainsaw manual for the correct depth gauge setting.
7. Test the Chain: After sharpening, test the chain by making a few cuts in a piece of wood. A sharp chain will produce long, smooth shavings. A dull chain will produce sawdust.

Frequency of Sharpening

The frequency of sharpening depends on the type of wood you’re cutting and the conditions in which you’re working. As a general rule, you should sharpen your chain after every few tanks of fuel or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance. Cutting dirty or abrasive wood will dull the chain more quickly.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Incorrect Filing Angles: Using the wrong filing angles can damage the teeth and reduce cutting performance.
• Uneven Filing: Filing some teeth more than others can create an unbalanced chain.
• Ignoring the Depth Gauges: Neglecting to adjust the depth gauges can prevent the chain from cutting effectively.
• Using a Dull File: A dull file will make sharpening more difficult and less effective.

Case Study: The Power of a Sharp Chain

I once had to clear a large pile of storm-damaged trees. The trees were covered in dirt and debris, which quickly dulled my chainsaw chain. As the chain became duller, I had to exert more force to make each cut, which led to fatigue and increased the risk of kickback. After sharpening the chain, the difference was remarkable. The saw cut through the wood effortlessly, reducing my fatigue and significantly improving my efficiency.

Strategic Advantages of Chain Sharpening

• Increased Efficiency: A sharp chain cuts through wood more quickly and easily, reducing the amount of time and effort required to complete a task.
• Improved Safety: A sharp chain is less likely to kick back or grab, reducing the risk of injury.
• Reduced Fatigue: A sharp chain requires less force to operate, reducing fatigue and allowing you to work longer.
• Longer Chain Life: Regularly sharpening your chain can extend its lifespan, saving you money on replacements.

Tip #3: Wood Selection: Choosing the Right Species for Optimal Burning

Not all firewood is created equal. The type of wood you burn significantly impacts the amount of heat produced, the burn time, and the amount of smoke generated. Understanding the characteristics of different wood species is crucial for selecting the right firewood for your needs.

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods

Wood species are broadly classified as hardwoods or softwoods. This classification is based on the botanical structure of the tree, not necessarily the actual hardness of the wood.

• Hardwoods: Generally denser than softwoods, hardwoods burn hotter and longer, producing more heat per unit volume. Examples include oak, maple, ash, beech, and birch.
• Softwoods: Generally less dense than hardwoods, softwoods burn faster and produce more smoke. They are often used for kindling or starting fires. Examples include pine, fir, spruce, and cedar.

BTU Content

The heat content of wood is measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs) per cord. A BTU is the amount of energy required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. The higher the BTU content, the more heat the wood will produce when burned.

Here’s a table showing the approximate BTU content of various wood species (per cord, seasoned):

Note: These are approximate values and can vary depending on the specific species and the moisture content of the wood.

Other Factors to Consider

In addition to BTU content, other factors to consider when selecting firewood include:

• Ease of Splitting: Some wood species, like oak and elm, can be difficult to split, while others, like ash and maple, are relatively easy.
• Smoke Production: Some wood species, like pine and cedar, produce more smoke than others. This can be a concern if you’re burning wood indoors.
• Sparking: Some wood species, like pine, tend to spark more than others. This can be a fire hazard if you’re burning wood in an open fireplace.
• Availability and Cost: The availability and cost of different wood species can vary depending on your location.

Local Considerations

The best firewood choices often depend on what’s locally available. In the Northeast, I often rely on oak and maple. In the Pacific Northwest, alder is a common and relatively easy-to-split option. Talk to local firewood suppliers and experienced burners to learn which species are best suited for your region and your needs.

Case Study: Optimizing Wood Selection for a Wood Stove

I once helped a friend optimize his wood stove usage. He was primarily burning pine, which was readily available in his area. However, he complained that he had to constantly reload the stove and that it didn’t produce enough heat. I suggested he try mixing in some oak or maple, even if it meant paying a bit more. The difference was significant. The oak and maple burned much longer and produced more heat, reducing the frequency of reloading and keeping his house warmer.

Strategic Advantages of Wood Selection

• Increased Efficiency: Choosing the right wood species can significantly increase the efficiency of your wood-burning appliance.
• Reduced Emissions: Burning seasoned hardwood produces less smoke and fewer emissions than burning green or softwood.
• Lower Cost: By optimizing your wood selection, you can reduce the amount of wood you need to burn, saving you money on fuel.
• Improved Comfort: Burning the right wood species can provide a more consistent and comfortable level of heat.

Tip #4: Splitting Techniques: Maximizing Efficiency and Minimizing Effort

Splitting firewood is a physically demanding task, but using the right techniques can make it much easier and more efficient. Whether you’re using an axe, a maul, or a hydraulic splitter, mastering the fundamentals of splitting is essential for firewood preparation.

Choosing the Right Splitting Tool

• Axe: A traditional tool for splitting firewood. Axes are best suited for splitting small to medium-sized logs.
• Maul: A heavier tool than an axe, with a broader head. Mauls are better suited for splitting larger, more difficult logs.
• Hydraulic Splitter: A machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs. Hydraulic splitters are the most efficient option for splitting large quantities of firewood.

My personal preference is a good quality maul for most splitting, supplemented by a hydraulic splitter for particularly knotty or large rounds. The maul gives you a good workout and a satisfying sense of accomplishment.

Manual Splitting Techniques (Axe and Maul)

1. Choose a Safe Work Area: Select a flat, stable surface for splitting. Clear the area of any obstacles and ensure you have plenty of room to swing your axe or maul.
2. Use a Splitting Block: A splitting block is a large, sturdy piece of wood that you place the log on for splitting. The splitting block should be at a comfortable height for you to swing your axe or maul.
3. Position the Log: Place the log on the splitting block, ensuring it’s stable and won’t roll.
4. Grip the Axe or Maul: Grip the axe or maul firmly with both hands, keeping your hands separated for maximum leverage.
5. Swing the Axe or Maul: Raise the axe or maul above your head and swing it down towards the log, aiming for the center. Use your legs and core to generate power.
6. Follow Through: After striking the log, follow through with your swing, allowing the axe or maul to continue moving downwards.
7. Repeat as Necessary: If the log doesn’t split on the first strike, repeat the process until it does.

Hydraulic Splitter Techniques

1. Read the Manual: Familiarize yourself with the operating instructions for your hydraulic splitter.
2. Wear Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when operating a hydraulic splitter.
3. Position the Log: Place the log on the splitter bed, ensuring it’s centered under the splitting wedge.
4. Engage the Splitter: Engage the splitter by pulling the lever or pushing the button. The hydraulic ram will push the log against the splitting wedge, splitting it in half.
5. Retrieve the Split Wood: Once the log is split, retrieve the pieces of wood and stack them in a pile.

Tips for Easier Splitting

• Split Green Wood: Green wood is generally easier to split than seasoned wood.
• Split Along the Grain: Split the log along the natural grain of the wood.
• Use Wedges: If you encounter a particularly difficult log, use wedges to help split it apart.
• Sharpen Your Axe or Maul: A sharp axe or maul will make splitting much easier.
• Take Breaks: Splitting firewood is physically demanding, so take breaks as needed to avoid fatigue.

Case Study: Conquering Knotty Oak

I once had to split a large pile of oak logs that were full of knots. The knots made splitting extremely difficult, even with a maul. I tried using wedges, but they often got stuck. Finally, I decided to rent a hydraulic splitter. The hydraulic splitter made short work of the knotty oak, splitting the logs with ease. It saved me a tremendous amount of time and effort.

Strategic Advantages of Efficient Splitting

• Reduced Effort: Using the right splitting techniques can significantly reduce the amount of effort required to split firewood.
• Increased Efficiency: Efficient splitting techniques can help you split more wood in less time.
• Reduced Risk of Injury: Using proper splitting techniques can reduce the risk of injury.
• Improved Productivity: Efficient splitting techniques can improve your overall productivity when preparing firewood.

Tip #5: Seasoning and Stacking: Drying Wood for Optimal Burning

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying it to reduce its moisture content. Seasoned wood burns more efficiently, produces more heat, and generates less smoke than green wood. Proper stacking is crucial for effective seasoning.

Understanding Moisture Content

Green wood typically has a moisture content of 30% or higher. Seasoned wood should have a moisture content of 20% or less. You can measure the moisture content of wood using a moisture meter.

The Seasoning Process

The seasoning process involves allowing the wood to air dry. This typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the wood species, the climate, and the stacking method.

Stacking Methods

Proper stacking is essential for allowing air to circulate around the wood and promote drying. Here are a few common stacking methods:

• Crisscross Stacking: Stacking the wood in a crisscross pattern creates air gaps between the logs, allowing for better air circulation.
• Linear Stacking: Stacking the wood in a straight line, with gaps between the rows, is another effective method.
• Circular Stacking (Holz Hausen): A traditional European method that involves stacking the wood in a circular pattern, with a central chimney to promote airflow.

I personally prefer linear stacking with a slight slope to encourage water runoff. It’s simple, effective, and allows me to easily monitor the drying process.

Key Considerations for Stacking

• Location: Choose a sunny, well-ventilated location for stacking your firewood.
• Ground Contact: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil. You can use pallets, cinder blocks, or wooden rails.
• Covering: Cover the top of the woodpile to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow for air circulation.
• Airflow: Ensure there is adequate airflow around the woodpile to promote drying.

Monitoring Moisture Content

Use a moisture meter to monitor the moisture content of your firewood. Test several pieces of wood from different locations in the pile. When the moisture content reaches 20% or less, the wood is ready to burn.

Case Study: The Importance of Proper Seasoning

I once purchased a large load of firewood that was advertised as “seasoned.” However, when I started burning it, I quickly realized it was still quite green. It produced a lot of smoke and very little heat. I decided to re-stack the wood in a sunny location and allow it to season for another few months. The difference was dramatic. The properly seasoned wood burned much more efficiently and produced significantly more heat.

Strategic Advantages of Seasoning and Stacking

• Increased Efficiency: Seasoned wood burns more efficiently, producing more heat per unit volume.
• Reduced Emissions: Burning seasoned wood produces less smoke and fewer emissions than burning green wood.
• Improved Appliance Performance: Burning seasoned wood can help prevent creosote buildup in your chimney, improving the performance and safety of your wood-burning appliance.
• Cost Savings: By burning seasoned wood, you can reduce the amount of wood you need to burn, saving you money on fuel.

Conclusion: Mastering Firewood Preparation with the MS261C

By mastering these five expert tips, you can transform your firewood preparation process. The Stihl MS261C is a powerful and versatile tool, but its true potential is unlocked when combined with the right knowledge and techniques. From mastering the bore cut to selecting the right wood species and properly seasoning your firewood, each step contributes to a more efficient, safer, and more rewarding experience.

Next Steps:

1. Practice the Bore Cut: Find some scrap wood and practice the bore cut technique until you feel comfortable with it.
2. Sharpen Your Chain: Invest in a good quality chain sharpening kit and learn how to sharpen your chain properly.
3. Identify Local Wood Species: Research the different wood species that are available in your area and learn about their burning characteristics.
4. Evaluate Your Splitting Tools: Determine whether your current splitting tools are adequate for your needs. Consider investing in a hydraulic splitter if you regularly split large quantities of firewood.
5. Improve Your Stacking Method: Assess your current stacking method and make any necessary adjustments to promote better airflow and drying.

Firewood preparation is a skill that takes time and practice to master. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get it right away. Keep learning, keep experimenting, and most importantly, keep enjoying the warmth and comfort that a well-prepared fire can provide. Remember to always prioritize safety and wear appropriate personal protective equipment. With dedication and the right tools, you can become a true firewood pro!

Learn more