MS251 vs MS250 Chainsaws (5 Key Cuts Pros Swear By)
In an era where sustainability and efficiency are paramount, eco-tech has revolutionized industries, and forestry is no exception. Chainsaws, once symbols of environmental degradation, are now at the forefront of responsible wood processing. As a seasoned professional in the wood processing industry, I’ve witnessed firsthand how selecting the right chainsaw can significantly impact both productivity and environmental footprint. Today, I’m diving deep into a head-to-head comparison of two popular models: the Stihl MS 251 and the Stihl MS 250. I’ll share insights on five key cuts that professionals rely on, and how each chainsaw performs in these critical tasks. My goal is to provide you with the knowledge to make an informed decision, whether you’re a hobbyist, a small-scale logger, or a firewood producer. Let’s get started!
Stihl MS 251 vs. MS 250: A Detailed Comparison
The Stihl MS 250 and MS 251 are workhorse chainsaws favored by many for their reliability and versatility. However, subtle differences can make one more suitable than the other depending on the specific application. Let’s break down the key specifications and features.
Core Specifications
To start, let’s get down to brass tacks with the raw numbers. Understanding these specifications is crucial for selecting the right tool for the job.
- Engine Displacement:
- MS 250: 45.4 cc
- MS 251: 45.6 cc
- Power Output:
- MS 250: 2.3 kW (3.1 bhp)
- MS 251: 2.1 kW (2.8 bhp)
- Weight (Powerhead Only):
- MS 250: 4.6 kg (10.1 lbs)
- MS 251: 4.6 kg (10.1 lbs)
- Guide Bar Length (Recommended):
- MS 250: 16-18 inches
- MS 251: 16-18 inches
- Fuel Capacity:
- MS 250: 0.47 L (15.9 oz)
- MS 251: 0.39 L (13.2 oz)
- Oil Capacity:
- MS 250: 0.20 L (6.8 oz)
- MS 251: 0.21 L (7.1 oz)
Feature Breakdown
While the specifications provide a solid foundation, the features of each chainsaw contribute significantly to their overall performance and user experience.
- Engine Technology:
- MS 250: Traditional 2-stroke engine.
- MS 251: 2-stroke engine with stratified charge technology, reducing fuel consumption and emissions. This is a significant advantage for eco-conscious users and those looking to save on fuel costs.
- Chain Tensioning:
- MS 250: Side-mounted chain tensioner.
- MS 251: Side-mounted chain tensioner.
- Starting System:
- MS 250: Standard starting system.
- MS 251: Easy2Start™ system, requiring less effort to pull the starter rope.
- Vibration Dampening:
- MS 250: Standard anti-vibration system.
- MS 251: Advanced anti-vibration system for reduced operator fatigue.
- Air Filtration:
- MS 250: Standard air filter.
- MS 251: Pre-separation air filtration system for longer filter life and reduced maintenance.
The Devil is in the Details: My Personal Experiences
I’ve spent countless hours in the field with both the MS 250 and MS 251. The MS 250, with its slightly higher power output, feels a tad more aggressive when bucking larger logs. However, the MS 251 shines with its fuel efficiency and easier starting. The Easy2Start™ system is a godsend on cold mornings, especially when you’re already physically taxed. The reduced vibration on the MS 251 is also noticeable during extended use, making it a more comfortable option for long days.
5 Key Cuts Pros Swear By
These cuts are fundamental for efficient and safe wood processing. I’ll explain each cut, highlighting the best practices and how each chainsaw performs.
1. Felling Cut (Tree Cutting)
Felling is the art of safely bringing down a tree. It involves a precise sequence of cuts to control the direction of the fall.
- The Undercut: A wedge-shaped notch cut on the side of the tree in the desired direction of fall. This notch should be approximately 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
- The Back Cut: A horizontal cut made on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the undercut. Leave a hinge of wood between the back cut and the undercut to control the fall.
- Safety Considerations: Always assess the tree for lean, wind conditions, and obstacles. Clear a retreat path at a 45-degree angle away from the expected fall direction.
Performance: Both chainsaws perform admirably in felling smaller to medium-sized trees (up to 12-14 inches in diameter). The MS 250’s slightly higher power gives it a marginal edge in thicker hardwoods. However, the MS 251’s smoother operation and reduced vibration make it a more comfortable choice for extended felling operations.
Data Point: According to a study by the Forest Resources Association, proper felling techniques can reduce logging-related accidents by up to 50%.
Technical Requirement: Ensure the chain is sharp and properly tensioned. A dull chain can lead to kickback and loss of control.
2. Bucking (Log Cutting)
Bucking involves cutting a felled tree into manageable log lengths. This is where efficiency and precision are crucial.
- Compression Cut: Cutting the side of the log that is under compression to prevent pinching the saw.
- Tension Cut: Cutting the side of the log that is under tension after relieving the compression.
- Overbucking: Cutting from the top down.
- Underbucking: Cutting from the bottom up.
Performance: Both chainsaws excel in bucking. The MS 250’s extra power is noticeable when cutting through thicker logs, especially hardwoods like oak or maple. However, the MS 251’s improved fuel efficiency means less downtime for refueling, which can be a significant advantage when processing large volumes of wood.
Personal Story: I once spent a week bucking a massive oak tree that had fallen during a storm. The MS 250, with its raw power, helped me muscle through the thickest sections, but the MS 251’s lighter weight and smoother operation saved me a lot of fatigue over those long days.
Technical Tip: When bucking logs on the ground, use a log jack to lift the log and prevent the saw from hitting the ground. This not only protects the saw but also reduces the risk of kickback.
Data Point: Studies show that using proper bucking techniques can increase wood yield by up to 15% by minimizing waste.
3. Limbing (Branch Removal)
Limbing is the process of removing branches from a felled tree. This requires careful maneuvering and precise cuts.
- Cut from the Top: Start by cutting branches on the top side of the log, working your way down.
- Support Branches: Support the branch with your hand or foot to prevent it from pinching the saw.
- Avoid Kickback: Be mindful of the tip of the bar and avoid contact with other branches or the ground.
Performance: The lighter weight and maneuverability of both chainsaws make them well-suited for limbing. The MS 251’s improved vibration dampening is particularly beneficial during extended limbing sessions. The MS 250 can be a bit more aggressive, which can be useful for quickly removing thicker branches.
Safety Code: Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps.
Technical Requirement: Keep the chain sharp and properly tensioned. A dull chain can increase the risk of kickback and make limbing more difficult.
4. Splitting Cut (Firewood Preparation)
While not a direct chainsaw cut, the splitting cut is essential for preparing firewood after bucking. Chainsaws are often used to score logs before splitting with a maul or hydraulic splitter.
- Scoring: Make shallow cuts along the length of the log to guide the splitting process.
- Avoid Deep Cuts: Do not cut all the way through the log, as this can be dangerous and inefficient.
Performance: Both chainsaws are suitable for scoring logs for splitting. The MS 250’s higher power can make scoring slightly faster, but the MS 251’s fuel efficiency and smoother operation make it a more comfortable option for extended use.
Wood Selection Criteria: Hardwoods like oak, maple, and beech are ideal for firewood due to their high density and BTU output. Softwoods like pine and fir burn faster and produce less heat.
Data Point: The ideal moisture content for firewood is between 15% and 20%. Wood with higher moisture content will be difficult to burn and produce less heat.
Technical Requirement: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood before burning.
5. Notching (Timber Framing)
Notching is a technique used in timber framing to create joints between timbers. This requires precise cuts and careful planning.
- Layout: Accurately mark the location of the notch on the timber.
- Side Cuts: Make vertical cuts along the sides of the notch.
- Waste Removal: Remove the waste wood using a series of horizontal cuts.
Performance: While chainsaws are not the primary tool for timber framing, they can be used to rough out notches before refining them with hand tools. The MS 250’s higher power can be useful for quickly removing larger amounts of wood. However, the MS 251’s smoother operation and improved control make it a more precise tool for this application.
Case Study: In a recent timber framing project, I used the MS 251 to rough out the notches for a series of mortise and tenon joints. The chainsaw’s precision and control allowed me to quickly and accurately remove the bulk of the waste wood, saving me a significant amount of time and effort.
Tool Calibration Standards: Ensure the chainsaw is properly calibrated and the chain is sharp. A dull chain can lead to inaccurate cuts and increase the risk of kickback.
Deep Dive: Technical Aspects of Wood Processing
Let’s delve into the nitty-gritty of wood processing, covering everything from wood selection to tool maintenance.
Wood Selection Criteria
Selecting the right type of wood is crucial for any wood processing project. Here’s a breakdown of key factors to consider:
- Hardness: Hardwoods are generally denser and more durable than softwoods, making them ideal for furniture, flooring, and construction.
- Grain Pattern: The grain pattern of wood can significantly impact its aesthetic appeal.
- Moisture Content: The moisture content of wood affects its stability and workability.
- Durability: Some woods are naturally more resistant to decay and insect infestation than others.
Data Point: The Janka hardness test measures the resistance of wood to indentation. Oak has a Janka hardness rating of 1290 lbf, while pine has a rating of 380 lbf.
Technical Limitation: Wood with a moisture content above 20% is prone to warping, cracking, and decay.
Tool Calibration Standards
Properly calibrating your chainsaw is essential for safe and efficient operation. Here are some key calibration standards:
- Chain Tension: The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
- Carburetor Adjustment: The carburetor should be adjusted to ensure proper fuel-air mixture.
- Idle Speed: The idle speed should be set to prevent the chain from moving when the saw is idling.
- Chain Sharpness: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting.
Practical Tip: Use a chain filing guide to ensure consistent and accurate chain sharpening.
Safety Equipment Requirements
Safety should always be the top priority when working with chainsaws. Here’s a list of essential safety equipment:
- Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
- Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from flying chips and dust.
- Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
- Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from accidental contact with the chain.
- Gloves: Provide a secure grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.
Important Limitation: Never operate a chainsaw without wearing all the required safety equipment.
The Verdict: Which Chainsaw is Right for You?
Choosing between the Stihl MS 250 and MS 251 depends on your specific needs and priorities.
- Choose the MS 250 if:
- You prioritize raw power for cutting thicker logs.
- You are less concerned about fuel efficiency and emissions.
- Choose the MS 251 if:
- You value fuel efficiency and reduced emissions.
- You prefer a smoother operating chainsaw with less vibration.
- You appreciate the Easy2Start™ system for easier starting.
