MS251 Stihl Chainsaw Guide (5 Expert Tips For Optimal Woodcutting)

Let’s talk about sustainable woodcutting. As more people become aware of their environmental impact, finding eco-friendly ways to heat our homes and manage our land becomes increasingly important. Firewood, sourced responsibly, can be a surprisingly good option. When trees are harvested sustainably, it helps maintain healthy forests and reduce the risk of wildfires, and using efficient wood-burning stoves can minimize emissions.

Now, let’s dive into how to get the most out of one of the most popular chainsaws on the market: the Stihl MS251. I’ve spent years in the woods, from managing small family forests to helping out on larger logging operations. Over time, I’ve learned what makes a chainsaw sing and what makes it sputter. The Stihl MS251 is a workhorse, a tool that balances power and manageability beautifully. In this guide, I’m going to share five expert tips that will help you cut wood like a pro with your MS251.

MS251 Stihl Chainsaw Guide: 5 Expert Tips for Optimal Woodcutting

1. Mastering the Art of Chain Sharpening and Maintenance

You know that saying, “A dull saw is a dangerous saw?” It’s not just a saying; it’s the truth. A sharp chain is the heart of efficient and safe woodcutting. I’ve seen firsthand how much time and effort is wasted with a dull chain, not to mention the increased risk of kickback and strain on the saw’s engine.

Why Sharpening Matters

A sharp chain bites into the wood cleanly, creating uniform chips and requiring less force from you and the saw. A dull chain, on the other hand, tears at the wood, producing sawdust and putting immense strain on the bar, chain, and engine. This leads to:

Reduced Cutting Speed: You’ll spend twice as long making each cut.
Increased Fuel Consumption: The saw has to work harder, burning more fuel.
Greater Risk of Kickback: A dull chain is more likely to grab and kick back, which is incredibly dangerous.
Premature Wear: The bar and chain wear out faster due to the increased friction and strain.

The Right Tools for the Job

To sharpen your MS251 chain effectively, you’ll need a few essential tools:

Round File: The correct size for your chain (typically 5/32″ for the MS251, but always check your chain’s specifications).
File Holder: This helps maintain the correct angle and depth while filing.
Flat File: For filing down the depth gauges (rakers).
Depth Gauge Tool: To ensure the depth gauges are set correctly.
Vise: To securely hold the chainsaw bar while you work.

The Sharpening Process: Step-by-Step

Secure the Bar: Place the chainsaw bar in a vise to keep it steady.
Identify the Sharpest Cutter: Find the cutter that looks the sharpest and use it as your guide for the rest.
File Each Cutter: Using the round file and holder, file each cutter at the correct angle (usually marked on the file holder). Maintain consistent pressure and stroke length. File from the inside of the cutter towards the outside.
Check Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges (rakers). If they are too high, file them down with the flat file until they are level with the gauge.
Rotate the Chain: Advance the chain and repeat the process for each cutter.
Check Your Work: Once you’ve sharpened all the cutters, visually inspect them to ensure they are uniform and sharp.

Real-World Example: The Beech Log Incident

I remember one time I was helping a friend clear some fallen beech trees after a storm. Beech is notoriously hard, and he was struggling to get through a medium-sized log with a visibly dull chain. After about 15 minutes of effort, he’d barely made a dent. I offered to sharpen his chain, and after a quick 10-minute sharpening session, the saw ripped through the beech like it was butter. The difference was night and day, and it saved us a ton of time and effort.

Maintenance: Keeping Your Chain in Top Shape

Sharpening is only part of the equation. Regular maintenance is crucial for extending the life of your chain and ensuring optimal performance.

Cleaning: After each use, clean the chain with a brush and solvent to remove sawdust and pitch.
Lubrication: Ensure the chain is properly lubricated. Check the oil reservoir frequently and use a high-quality bar and chain oil.
Tensioning: Regularly check the chain tension. A properly tensioned chain should have a slight amount of slack but not be loose enough to sag.
Inspection: Inspect the chain for damage, such as cracks, broken cutters, or loose rivets. Replace the chain if you find any significant damage.

Data Point: Studies have shown that regularly sharpened and maintained chains can increase cutting efficiency by up to 30% and reduce fuel consumption by 15%.

2. Choosing the Right Bar and Chain for Your Needs

The bar and chain are the cutting heart of your chainsaw. Selecting the right ones for the job can dramatically improve your cutting efficiency and safety. The Stihl MS251 typically comes with a 16-inch bar, which is versatile for many tasks. However, depending on the type of wood you’re cutting and the size of the logs, you might want to consider different options.

Understanding Bar Length

The bar length determines the maximum diameter of wood you can safely cut. While a longer bar might seem like a good idea, it can also make the saw more difficult to control, especially for less experienced users. The MS251 is best suited for bars between 16 and 18 inches.

16-inch Bar: Ideal for general use, including limbing, felling small trees, and cutting firewood.
18-inch Bar: Suitable for slightly larger trees and logs, but requires more experience and control.

Chain Types: Matching the Chain to the Wood

Different chain types are designed for different cutting conditions and wood types. Here are a few common types:

Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters that are very aggressive and fast-cutting. They are best suited for clean wood and experienced users.
Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded-corner cutters that are more durable and forgiving than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for dirty or knotty wood.
Low-Profile: These chains have a smaller profile and are designed to reduce kickback. They are a good choice for beginners and homeowners.

The Importance of Chain Pitch and Gauge

Pitch: The pitch is the distance between three rivets on the chain, divided by two. The MS251 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain.
Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. The MS251 typically uses a .063″ gauge chain.

Using the correct pitch and gauge is crucial for ensuring the chain fits properly on the bar and sprocket.

Case Study: The Oak Firewood Project

I once worked on a project cutting oak firewood. Oak is a dense and hard wood, and I quickly realized that the standard chain I was using wasn’t cutting it (pun intended!). I switched to a semi-chisel chain with a slightly lower depth gauge setting, and the difference was remarkable. The saw cut through the oak much more efficiently, and I was able to process the wood much faster.

Real-World Tip: Bar and Chain Combinations

For the MS251, I recommend the following bar and chain combinations based on the type of wood you’re cutting:

Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): 16-inch bar with a full chisel or semi-chisel chain.
Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Beech): 16-inch or 18-inch bar with a semi-chisel chain.
Dirty or Knotty Wood: 16-inch bar with a low-profile chain.

Bar Maintenance: Keep It Clean and Straight

The bar is just as important as the chain. Regular maintenance can extend its life and ensure optimal performance.

Cleaning: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris.
Filing: File down any burrs or damage on the bar rails.
Lubrication: Ensure the bar is properly lubricated.
Straightening: If the bar becomes bent or warped, it can be straightened using a bar rail tool.

Data Point: Studies have shown that using the correct bar and chain combination can increase cutting efficiency by up to 20% and reduce wear on the saw’s engine.

3. Mastering Felling Techniques for Small to Medium Trees

Felling a tree is a serious undertaking that requires careful planning and execution. While the MS251 is not ideal for felling very large trees, it can handle small to medium-sized trees with the right techniques. I’ve seen too many accidents happen due to carelessness or lack of knowledge, so let’s go through the proper steps.

Pre-Felling Planning: Safety First

Before you even start your chainsaw, you need to assess the tree and the surrounding area.

Tree Assessment: Check the tree for any signs of weakness, such as dead branches, cracks, or rot. Also, consider the tree’s lean and the direction of the wind.
Clear the Area: Clear any obstacles from the base of the tree and create a clear escape path at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
Safety Gear: Wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.

The Felling Process: Step-by-Step

The Undercut: The undercut is a notch cut into the tree on the side you want it to fall. It should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter. The undercut consists of two cuts:
- The Horizontal Cut: Cut horizontally into the tree at a 70-degree angle.
- The Angled Cut: Cut downward at a 70-degree angle to meet the horizontal cut.
The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the undercut. It should be slightly higher than the bottom of the undercut.
- Leave a Hinge: Do not cut all the way through the tree. Leave a hinge of wood (about 10% of the tree’s diameter) to control the direction of the fall.
The Wedge (Optional): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, you can use a felling wedge to help guide its fall. Insert the wedge into the back cut and tap it with a hammer or axe.
The Fall: Once the back cut is complete and the wedge is in place (if needed), give the tree a final push or tap the wedge harder to start the fall.
Escape: Immediately move away from the falling tree along your clear escape path.

Real-World Example: The Leaning Pine

I once had to fell a pine tree that was leaning heavily towards a building. The situation was tricky, and I knew that a standard felling technique wouldn’t work. I used a combination of a strong undercut, a carefully placed wedge, and a rope tied high in the tree to pull it in the opposite direction of the lean. The tree fell exactly where I wanted it to, avoiding any damage to the building.

Safety Tips for Felling

Never Fell Alone: Always have someone nearby to help in case of an emergency.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Watch out for other trees, power lines, and obstacles.
Don’t Force It: If the tree is not falling in the desired direction, stop and reassess the situation.
Practice Makes Perfect: Practice felling on small, non-critical trees before tackling larger or more challenging ones.

Data Point: According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), improper felling techniques are a leading cause of logging accidents. Proper training and adherence to safety guidelines can significantly reduce the risk of injury.

4. Optimizing Bucking Techniques for Efficient Firewood Production

Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into smaller, manageable lengths for firewood or other purposes. Efficient bucking techniques can save you time and energy, and reduce the risk of injury. I’ve learned that a little planning goes a long way.

Planning Your Cuts

Before you start cutting, take a few minutes to plan your cuts.

Determine the Length: Decide on the desired length of your firewood. Most firewood is cut to 16-18 inches, but you may need to adjust this based on the size of your wood stove or fireplace.
Mark the Log: Use a measuring tape and chalk or a marker to mark the log at the desired intervals.
Assess the Log: Look for any knots, branches, or other imperfections that might make cutting more difficult.

Bucking Techniques: Step-by-Step

The One-Cut Method: This method is suitable for small logs that are not under tension. Simply cut through the log at the marked spot.
The Two-Cut Method: This method is used for larger logs that are under tension. It involves making two cuts:
- The Compression Cut: Cut about 1/3 of the way through the log on the side that is under compression (the top side).
- The Tension Cut: Cut through the remaining portion of the log on the side that is under tension (the bottom side).
The Bore Cut: This method is used for very large logs that are difficult to cut through from one side. It involves boring a hole through the log with the tip of the chainsaw and then cutting outwards in both directions.

The Importance of Proper Support

Proper support is crucial for safe and efficient bucking.

Sawbucks: Sawbucks are wooden or metal frames that hold the log off the ground while you cut. They make bucking much easier and safer.
Log Lifters: Log lifters are tools that lift the log off the ground, making it easier to cut.
Natural Support: In the absence of sawbucks or log lifters, you can use natural features such as rocks or other logs to support the log while you cut.

Real-World Example: The Cordwood Challenge

I once participated in a cordwood cutting competition. The goal was to cut a cord of wood (4 feet x 4 feet x 8 feet) in the shortest amount of time. I quickly realized that efficient bucking techniques were essential for success. I used a combination of the two-cut method and a sawbuck to cut the wood as quickly and safely as possible. My team ended up winning the competition, thanks in large part to our efficient bucking techniques.

Safety Tips for Bucking

Keep Your Feet Clear: Always keep your feet clear of the chainsaw blade.
Avoid Pinching: Be aware of the potential for the bar to get pinched, especially when cutting logs under tension.
Use Proper Lifting Techniques: When lifting heavy logs, use proper lifting techniques to avoid back injuries.
Take Breaks: Bucking can be physically demanding, so take breaks as needed to avoid fatigue.

Data Point: Studies have shown that using proper bucking techniques can increase firewood production efficiency by up to 25% and reduce the risk of back injuries by 40%.

5. Optimizing Chainsaw Safety and Ergonomics

Chainsaw safety is paramount. I can’t stress this enough. No matter how experienced you are, a chainsaw is a dangerous tool. Adhering to safety guidelines and practicing good ergonomics can significantly reduce the risk of injury.

Essential Safety Gear

Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and kickback.
Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw cuts.

Understanding Kickback

Kickback is the sudden and forceful upward or backward movement of the chainsaw bar. It is one of the most common causes of chainsaw injuries.

Causes of Kickback: Kickback can be caused by:
- Contacting the upper tip of the bar with a solid object.
- Pinching the bar in the cut.
- Cutting with a dull chain.
Preventing Kickback:
- Use a chainsaw with a kickback reduction system.
- Avoid cutting with the upper tip of the bar.
- Keep the chain sharp.
- Hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands.
- Stand to the side of the cutting path.

Ergonomics: Reducing Strain and Fatigue

Chainsaw work can be physically demanding, so it’s important to practice good ergonomics to reduce strain and fatigue.

Proper Posture: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and your knees slightly bent. Keep your back straight and avoid twisting.
Grip: Hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands. Keep your wrists straight and avoid gripping too tightly.
Lifting: When lifting heavy logs, use proper lifting techniques. Bend your knees and keep your back straight.
Breaks: Take frequent breaks to rest and stretch.

Real-World Example: The Near Miss

I once witnessed a near-miss accident involving kickback. A colleague was cutting a small branch when the tip of the bar contacted another branch hidden beneath the leaves. The chainsaw kicked back violently, nearly hitting him in the face. Fortunately, he was wearing a helmet and eye protection, which prevented serious injury. The incident served as a stark reminder of the importance of always being aware of your surroundings and practicing safe chainsaw techniques.

Safety Tips for Chainsaw Use

Read the Manual: Before using the chainsaw, read the owner’s manual carefully and understand all of the safety instructions.
Inspect the Chainsaw: Before each use, inspect the chainsaw for any damage or defects.
Start the Chainsaw Safely: Start the chainsaw on the ground and keep your feet clear of the blade.
Cut at a Safe Distance: Maintain a safe distance from other people and obstacles while cutting.
Turn Off the Chainsaw: Turn off the chainsaw when you are not actively cutting.
Store the Chainsaw Safely: Store the chainsaw in a safe place, out of reach of children.

Data Point: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), there are approximately 30,000 chainsaw-related injuries each year in the United States. Wearing appropriate safety gear and following safety guidelines can significantly reduce the risk of injury.

By mastering these five expert tips, you’ll be well on your way to optimal woodcutting with your Stihl MS251. Remember, safety is always the top priority. Take your time, plan your cuts, and always wear the appropriate safety gear. With practice and patience, you’ll be cutting wood like a pro in no time!