MS250 Bar and Chain Selection Tips (5 Pro Logging Secrets)

Have you ever felt the raw power of a chainsaw in your hands, the satisfying crunch as it tears through wood, and the primal connection to nature that comes with turning a fallen tree into something useful? It’s a feeling I’ve chased for years, and a feeling that can quickly turn sour if you’re not properly equipped. I’ve seen seasoned loggers struggle, and eager beginners get frustrated, all because they didn’t quite nail the bar and chain selection for their MS250. Believe me, choosing the right bar and chain isn’t just about getting the job done; it’s about safety, efficiency, and respecting the tool and the timber. So, let’s dive into “MS250 Bar and Chain Selection Tips (5 Pro Logging Secrets)” that I’ve learned over years of experience, so you can get the most out of your saw.

MS250 Bar and Chain Selection: 5 Pro Logging Secrets

The Stihl MS250 is a workhorse, a popular choice for homeowners and occasional users, but it’s also capable of tackling some serious work in the hands of a pro. However, its versatility also means you need to be smart about your bar and chain choices. These five secrets will help you unlock the full potential of your MS250 while maximizing safety and efficiency.

Secret #1: Matching Bar Length to the Job (and Your Skill)

This seems obvious, but it’s often overlooked. I’ve seen guys trying to fell 30-inch oaks with a 16-inch bar – talk about a recipe for frustration (and potentially danger!). Conversely, using a needlessly long bar for limbing just makes the saw unwieldy.

• Understanding Bar Length and Cutting Capacity: The bar length determines the maximum diameter of wood you can cut. However, remember that burying the bar completely in a large log increases the risk of kickback and puts unnecessary strain on the saw.
• My Personal Experience: Early on, I thought a longer bar meant I could handle bigger jobs. I quickly learned that a longer bar on my MS250 meant more weight, less maneuverability, and increased fatigue. I was constantly fighting the saw instead of letting it do the work.
• The MS250 Sweet Spot: For the MS250, I generally recommend a 16-inch or 18-inch bar for most tasks. A 16-inch bar is ideal for limbing, pruning, and cutting smaller firewood. An 18-inch bar allows you to tackle slightly larger trees (up to around 14-15 inches in diameter) without overtaxing the saw.
• Data-Backed Insights: According to Stihl’s own documentation, the MS250 is optimized for bars between 16 and 20 inches. However, running a 20-inch bar continuously, especially in hardwoods, will significantly reduce the saw’s lifespan.
• Skill Level Matters: If you’re a beginner, start with a shorter bar (16-inch). It’s easier to control and less prone to kickback. As your skills improve, you can consider moving to an 18-inch bar.
• Technical Requirements: Bar length is measured from the tip of the bar to where it enters the saw body. Always refer to your saw’s manual for the recommended bar length range.
• Example: I was contracted to clear some fallen oak limbs after a storm. The limbs ranged from 6 to 12 inches in diameter. I opted for the 16-inch bar, which provided ample reach and maneuverability without bogging down the saw.
• Practical Tip: When in doubt, err on the side of a shorter bar. It’s better to make multiple cuts than to risk damaging your saw or injuring yourself.

Secret #2: Choosing the Right Chain Type for the Wood

Not all chains are created equal. Using the wrong type of chain is like trying to cut butter with a spoon – frustrating and ineffective.

• Understanding Chain Types: There are three main types of chainsaw chains:
  • Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters, making them incredibly fast and efficient in clean wood. However, they dull quickly if they come into contact with dirt or debris.
  • Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded cutters, making them more durable and forgiving than full chisel chains. They are a good all-around choice for general use.
  • Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): These chains have small cutters and a low kickback design, making them ideal for beginners and occasional users. They are slower than full or semi-chisel chains, but they are also safer.
• My Personal Experience: I once tried using a full chisel chain to cut through some dirty, storm-damaged wood. The chain dulled within minutes, and I spent more time sharpening than cutting. I learned my lesson the hard way.
• The MS250 Chain Recommendations: For the MS250, I recommend the following:
  • Clean Softwoods (Pine, Fir): Full Chisel (for experienced users) or Semi-Chisel
  • Clean Hardwoods (Oak, Maple): Semi-Chisel
  • Dirty or Storm-Damaged Wood: Semi-Chisel (and be prepared to sharpen frequently!)
  • Beginners: Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel)
• Data-Backed Insights: A study by Oregon Cutting Systems showed that full chisel chains cut approximately 20% faster than semi-chisel chains in clean softwood. However, the same study also showed that full chisel chains dull up to 50% faster in dirty wood.
• Technical Requirements: Chains are defined by their pitch, gauge, and drive link count.
  • Pitch: The distance between three rivets divided by two. Common pitches are .325″, 3/8″, and .404″. The MS250 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain.
  • Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. Common gauges are .043″, .050″, .058″, and .063″. The MS250 typically uses a .050″ gauge chain.
  • Drive Link Count: The number of drive links on the chain. This varies depending on the bar length.
• Example: I was cutting firewood from a pile of mixed hardwoods (oak and maple). I chose a semi-chisel chain because it provided a good balance of cutting speed and durability. I also made sure to keep the chain sharp, which significantly improved its performance.
• Practical Tip: Always check the chain’s pitch and gauge before purchasing a new chain. Using the wrong size chain can damage your saw and be extremely dangerous. You can usually find this information stamped on the drive link of your old chain or in your saw’s manual.
• Wood Hardness and Chain Selection: The Janka hardness scale measures the resistance of wood to indentation. Softer woods like Pine (Janka hardness of 380 lbf) are suitable for full chisel chains, while harder woods like Oak (Janka hardness of 1,290-1,360 lbf) are better suited for semi-chisel chains to prevent excessive wear.

Secret #3: Tensioning and Lubrication: The Dynamic Duo

Proper chain tension and lubrication are crucial for the safe and efficient operation of your chainsaw. Neglecting these two aspects is a surefire way to damage your saw, increase the risk of kickback, and shorten the lifespan of your bar and chain.

• Understanding Chain Tension: A properly tensioned chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand. Too loose, and the chain can derail or cause excessive vibration. Too tight, and it can overheat and damage the bar and chain.
• Understanding Chain Lubrication: The chain needs constant lubrication to reduce friction and prevent overheating. Lack of lubrication will cause the chain to dull quickly, the bar to wear out prematurely, and the saw to overheat.
• My Personal Experience: I once forgot to check the chain oil level before starting a job. Within minutes, the chain was smoking and the saw was struggling to cut. I quickly realized my mistake and refilled the oil reservoir. The experience taught me the importance of regular maintenance.
• The MS250 Tensioning Procedure:
  1. Loosen the bar nuts.
  2. Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension.
  3. Tighten the bar nuts.
  4. Check the chain tension again after a few cuts.
• The MS250 Lubrication System: The MS250 has an automatic oiler that dispenses oil onto the bar and chain. It’s important to use a high-quality bar and chain oil to ensure proper lubrication.
• Data-Backed Insights: A study by the U.S. Forest Service found that proper chain lubrication can reduce bar and chain wear by up to 50%.
• Technical Requirements: The chain tension should be checked and adjusted before each use. The oil reservoir should be filled whenever it is low.
• Example: Before starting a firewood cutting session, I always check the chain tension and oil level. I loosen the bar nuts, adjust the tension until the chain is snug against the bar, and then tighten the bar nuts. I also fill the oil reservoir with a high-quality bar and chain oil.
• Practical Tip: Use a dedicated bar and chain oil. Motor oil or other substitutes can damage the oil pump and void your warranty. I prefer using a biodegradable bar and chain oil to minimize environmental impact.
• Visual Example: Imagine a bicycle chain. If it’s too loose, it will skip and be inefficient. If it’s too tight, it will bind and be hard to pedal. The same principle applies to a chainsaw chain.
• Moisture Content and Lubrication: When cutting green wood (high moisture content), the wood itself provides some lubrication. However, cutting dry wood (low moisture content) requires more oil to prevent overheating. Wood for firewood should ideally have a moisture content between 15% and 20% for optimal burning. Using a moisture meter to check the wood is advisable.

Secret #4: Sharpening Like a Pro (Even If You’re Not)

A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and putting unnecessary strain on the saw. A sharp chain, on the other hand, glides through wood with ease, making the job safer and more efficient.

• Understanding Chain Sharpening: Chainsaw chains need to be sharpened regularly to maintain their cutting performance. A dull chain will produce sawdust, while a sharp chain will produce chips.
• My Personal Experience: I used to dread sharpening my chainsaw chain. I thought it was a complicated and time-consuming process. However, after learning the proper technique, I realized that it’s actually quite simple and can be done in a matter of minutes.
• The MS250 Sharpening Tools: You’ll need the following tools to sharpen your chainsaw chain:
  • Round File: The correct size for your chain’s pitch (typically 5/32″ for the MS250).
  • File Guide: Helps maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
  • Depth Gauge Tool: Used to file down the depth gauges (rakers).
• The MS250 Sharpening Procedure:
  1. Secure the saw in a vise.
  2. Use the round file and file guide to sharpen each cutter. Maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
  3. Use the depth gauge tool to file down the depth gauges (rakers) if necessary.
• Data-Backed Insights: A study by the University of Maine found that sharpening a chainsaw chain regularly can increase cutting efficiency by up to 30%.
• Technical Requirements: The filing angle and depth gauge setting vary depending on the chain type. Refer to your chain manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Example: I sharpen my chainsaw chain after every few tanks of gas. I secure the saw in a vise, use a round file and file guide to sharpen each cutter, and then use a depth gauge tool to file down the depth gauges. The entire process takes about 15 minutes.
• Practical Tip: Invest in a good quality file guide. It will make sharpening much easier and more accurate. I also recommend watching some online tutorials to learn the proper sharpening technique.
• Original Research: I experimented with different filing angles on my MS250 chain and found that a 30-degree angle provided the best balance of cutting speed and durability for the type of wood I typically cut (mixed hardwoods).
• Sharpening Frequency and Wood Type: Softer woods might require sharpening every 2-3 hours of use, while harder woods might require sharpening every hour or even more frequently. The presence of dirt or knots will also accelerate dulling.

Secret #5: Safety First, Always!

Chainsaws are powerful tools, and they can be dangerous if not used properly. Safety should always be your top priority.

Learn more