MS211 Chain Tips For Wood Processing (5 Expert Hacks)

Durability. It’s the name of the game when you’re tackling wood processing, whether you’re a seasoned logger or just getting started making firewood for the winter. But even the toughest saw needs a little TLC to keep it running smoothly and efficiently. That’s where these expert chain tips come in. I’ve spent years in the woods, learning through trial and error (and more than a few dull chains!). I’m going to share my hard-earned insights to help you get the most out of your MS 211 chain and make your wood processing tasks easier, safer, and more productive.

MS 211 Chain Tips for Wood Processing: 5 Expert Hacks

1. Chain Selection: Matching the Chain to the Task

Choosing the right chain for your MS 211 is more than just grabbing whatever’s on the shelf. It’s about understanding the wood you’re cutting, the type of work you’re doing, and the limitations of your saw. I learned this the hard way years ago when I was felling some mature oak trees with a chain better suited for limbing. The saw bogged down constantly, the chain dulled quickly, and I wasted a ton of time and energy.

Chain Pitch: The MS 211 typically uses a 3/8″ low-profile chain. This means the distance between three rivets divided by two is 3/8 of an inch. Sticking to this pitch is crucial for proper engagement with the saw’s sprocket and bar. Using a different pitch can damage your saw.
Chain Gauge: The gauge refers to the thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove. The MS 211 usually requires a 0.050″ gauge chain. Again, using the wrong gauge can lead to poor performance and accelerated wear on the bar and chain.
Chain Type: This is where things get interesting. There are several types of chains available, each designed for specific applications:
- Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters that are incredibly aggressive and fast cutting. However, they dull quickly if they come into contact with dirt or debris. I recommend these for clean wood only. They are ideal for felling and bucking clean logs. I find they cut through softwoods like pine and fir like butter.
- Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded corners on the cutters, making them more forgiving and durable than full chisel chains. They’re a good all-around choice for cutting a variety of wood types, including those that may be slightly dirty. This is my go-to chain for general firewood cutting because it can handle slightly dirty wood without dulling immediately.
- Low-Profile (Micro-Lite): These chains have smaller cutters and are designed for smaller saws like the MS 211. They offer reduced kickback and are easier to control, making them a good choice for beginners or for limbing. These are great for small jobs and cleanup.
- Ripping Chain: This chain is designed for cutting wood along the grain, such as when milling lumber. The cutter angles are different, optimizing the chain for this specific task. I once tried to rip a log with a standard crosscut chain. Let’s just say it was a slow and frustrating process.
Data Point: A study by Oregon State University found that using the correct chain type for the application can increase cutting efficiency by up to 25% and reduce chain wear by 15%.
Practical Tip: Keep several different types of chains on hand so you can switch them out depending on the job. This will save you time and money in the long run.

2. Sharpening Like a Pro: Maintaining a Razor-Sharp Edge

A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. Plus, it’s just plain frustrating! I’ve seen too many people struggling with dull chains, wasting energy and producing nothing but sawdust. Sharpening your chain regularly is one of the most important things you can do to keep your MS 211 running efficiently.

Frequency: How often you sharpen depends on the type of wood you’re cutting and how much you’re cutting. As a general rule, sharpen your chain every time you refuel your saw. If you notice the chain is cutting slowly or producing fine sawdust instead of chips, it’s time to sharpen.
Tools: You’ll need a few basic tools to sharpen your chain:
- Round File: This is the primary tool for sharpening the cutters. The correct file size for a 3/8″ low-profile chain is typically 5/32″ (4.0 mm).
- File Guide: A file guide helps you maintain the correct angle and depth while sharpening. This is especially important for beginners.
- Flat File: Use a flat file to lower the depth gauges (rakers).
- Depth Gauge Tool: This tool helps you ensure the depth gauges are at the correct height.
- Vise: A small vise that clamps onto the bar makes sharpening much easier and more precise. I prefer a bar-mounted vise that I can take into the field.
Sharpening Technique:
1. Secure the Chain: Place the chainsaw bar in a vise to hold it steady.
2. Identify the Correct Angle: Use the file guide to determine the correct sharpening angle for your chain. This is usually marked on the guide. The top plate angle is typically around 30 degrees, and the side plate angle is around 60 degrees.
3. File the Cutters: Using the round file and file guide, sharpen each cutter individually. File from the inside of the cutter outwards, using smooth, consistent strokes. Apply light pressure and follow the existing angle of the cutter. Aim for the same number of strokes on each cutter to maintain consistent cutter length.
4. Lower the Depth Gauges: After sharpening the cutters, use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges (rakers). These should be slightly lower than the cutters. Use the flat file to lower the depth gauges as needed. The recommended depth gauge setting for the MS 211 is typically 0.025″ (0.635 mm).
5. Check for Consistency: After sharpening all the cutters, check to make sure they are all the same length and shape. A consistent chain will cut more smoothly and efficiently.
6. Deburr: After sharpening, use a small file or deburring tool to remove any burrs from the cutters.
Data Point: A study by the Forest Engineering Research Institute of Canada (FERIC) found that properly sharpened chains can reduce fuel consumption by up to 20% and increase cutting speed by 30%.
Personalized Story: I once worked with a logger who sharpened his chains so meticulously that they were almost surgical instruments. He could fell trees with incredible precision and his chains lasted significantly longer than anyone else’s. He taught me the importance of patience and attention to detail when sharpening.
Technical Detail: The depth gauge setting is critical for efficient cutting. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain will not bite into the wood. If they are too low, the chain will grab too aggressively, increasing the risk of kickback and stalling the saw.
Practical Tip: Invest in a good quality file guide. It will make sharpening much easier and more accurate.
Unique Insight: I’ve found that using a marker to color the top of the cutters before sharpening helps me see where I’m removing metal and ensures I’m sharpening evenly.

3. Bar Maintenance: Keeping Your Guide Bar in Top Shape

The guide bar is the backbone of your chainsaw. It supports the chain and guides it through the cut. A worn or damaged bar can cause the chain to derail, bind, or even break. I’ve seen firsthand the damage a neglected bar can cause. Proper bar maintenance is essential for safe and efficient operation.

Cleaning: Regularly clean the guide bar to remove sawdust, pitch, and other debris. Use a wire brush or scraper to clean the bar groove and oil holes. Clogged oil holes can prevent the chain from being properly lubricated, leading to premature wear and failure.
Filing: Check the bar rails for burrs or damage. Use a flat file to smooth any rough spots. A damaged bar rail can cause the chain to bind and wear unevenly.
Truing: If the bar is bent or warped, it may need to be trued. This involves using a specialized tool to straighten the bar. In severe cases, the bar may need to be replaced. I have straightened slightly bent bars with a hammer and a flat surface, but this is a risky procedure and should only be attempted by experienced users.
Lubrication: Ensure the bar and chain are properly lubricated. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. Insufficient lubrication can cause the chain to overheat and break. I prefer using a vegetable-based bar and chain oil as it’s more environmentally friendly.
Bar Rotation: Regularly rotate the bar to ensure even wear. This will help prolong the life of the bar. I typically rotate the bar every time I replace the chain.
Data Point: A study by Stihl found that proper bar maintenance can extend the life of the bar by up to 50%.
Technical Detail: The bar groove width must match the chain gauge. Using the wrong gauge chain can damage the bar and chain.
Practical Tip: Invest in a bar rail dressing tool. This tool helps maintain the squareness of the bar rails and prevents the chain from derailing.
Unique Insight: I’ve found that applying a thin coat of grease to the bar rails before storing the saw helps prevent rust and corrosion.

4. Tensioning the Chain: Finding the Sweet Spot

Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can bind and overheat. I remember once running a saw with a chain that was way too tight. The bar turned blue from the heat, and the chain broke within minutes. Finding the right tension is a balancing act.

Checking Tension: To check the chain tension, lift the chain in the middle of the bar. The chain should lift slightly away from the bar, but not so much that the drive links come out of the bar groove. Typically, you should be able to pull the chain about 1/8″ (3 mm) away from the bar.
Adjusting Tension: The MS 211 has a side-mounted chain tensioner. Use a screwdriver or wrench to adjust the tension. Loosen the bar nuts slightly before adjusting the tension. After adjusting the tension, tighten the bar nuts securely.
Hot vs. Cold Tension: The chain will expand as it heats up during use. Therefore, it’s important to adjust the tension when the chain is cold. A chain that is properly tensioned when cold may become too tight when hot.
New Chain Stretch: New chains will stretch more than used chains. Check the tension frequently during the first few uses of a new chain.
Data Point: A study by Husqvarna found that properly tensioned chains can reduce the risk of kickback by up to 20%.
Technical Detail: Over-tensioning the chain can damage the bar, chain, and sprocket.
Practical Tip: Always check the chain tension before starting the saw and after every few cuts.
Unique Insight: I’ve found that marking the correct tension setting on the bar with a permanent marker helps me quickly and easily adjust the tension.

5. Wood Selection and Cutting Techniques: Working Smarter, Not Harder

Even with a perfectly tuned MS 211 and a razor-sharp chain, you can still struggle if you’re not using proper wood selection and cutting techniques. I’ve seen people try to cut through knots with brute force, only to get their chain pinched or their saw kicked back. Understanding the properties of different types of wood and using the right cutting techniques can make a huge difference in your productivity and safety.

Wood Identification: Learn to identify different types of wood. Hardwoods like oak and maple are denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods like pine and fir. Knowing the type of wood you’re cutting will help you choose the right chain and adjust your cutting technique.
Log Inspection: Before cutting a log, inspect it for knots, cracks, and other defects. Avoid cutting through knots if possible. They can cause the chain to pinch and increase the risk of kickback.
Cutting Techniques:
- Felling: When felling a tree, use proper felling techniques to ensure the tree falls in the desired direction. This includes making a notch cut and a back cut. The notch cut should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter. The back cut should be slightly above the notch cut, leaving a hinge of wood to control the fall of the tree. I always use a felling wedge to help direct the fall of larger trees.
- Bucking: When bucking logs into shorter lengths, use proper bucking techniques to avoid pinching the chain. This includes using support logs or wedges to prevent the log from sagging and pinching the chain. I often use the “bore cut” technique for relieving compression when bucking logs that are under tension.
- Limbing: When limbing a tree, work from the base of the tree towards the top, cutting the branches close to the trunk. Be careful of spring poles, which are branches that are bent under tension. These can snap back and cause injury if cut improperly.
Wood Moisture Content: The moisture content of wood affects its weight, strength, and burning properties. Freshly cut wood can have a moisture content of 50% or higher. Firewood should be dried to a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning. I use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of my firewood.
Data Point: A study by the U.S. Forest Service found that properly dried firewood can produce up to 25% more heat than green firewood.
Technical Detail: Wood shrinks as it dries. The amount of shrinkage varies depending on the species of wood. Hardwoods typically shrink more than softwoods.
Practical Tip: When cutting firewood, stack the wood loosely to allow for good air circulation. This will help it dry faster.
Unique Insight: I’ve found that splitting firewood before drying it helps it dry faster and reduces the risk of rot.
Safety Code: Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.

Bonus Hack: Keep Your Saw Clean!

It might seem obvious, but keeping your MS 211 clean is crucial for its longevity. Sawdust and debris can accumulate and cause overheating, reduced performance, and even damage to the engine. I make it a habit to clean my saw after every use.

Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly. A dirty air filter restricts airflow and can cause the engine to run poorly.
Cooling Fins: Clean the cooling fins on the engine to prevent overheating.
Spark Plug: Check the spark plug periodically and replace it as needed.
Fuel System: Use fresh fuel and keep the fuel system clean.
Overall Cleaning: Wipe down the entire saw with a clean cloth to remove sawdust and debris.

By following these tips, you can keep your MS 211 chain and saw running smoothly and efficiently for years to come. Remember, safety is always the top priority. Take your time, use the right tools and techniques, and always wear appropriate safety gear. Happy cutting!

MS211 Chain Tips for Wood Processing (5 Expert Hacks)