Ms170 Replacement Chain Guide (5 Expert Tips for Perfect Fit)

Ever notice how a chainsaw chain seems to have a mind of its own? One minute you’re slicing through wood like butter, the next you’re wrestling with a dull, ill-fitting chain that’s about as useful as a screen door on a submarine. I’ve been there, done that, got the sawdust-covered t-shirt. Finding the right replacement chain for your Stihl MS170 can feel like navigating a lumberjack’s labyrinth. But fear not! I’m here to share my hard-earned wisdom, gleaned from years of felling trees, splitting logs, and generally making a mess in the great outdoors. This guide is your compass, leading you to the perfect MS170 replacement chain.

Ms170 Replacement Chain Guide (5 Expert Tips for Perfect Fit)

I’ve spent countless hours tinkering with chainsaws, and the Stihl MS170 is a trusty little workhorse that many, including myself, rely on for smaller jobs. But a chainsaw is only as good as its chain, and a poorly fitted chain can turn a pleasant afternoon of woodcutting into a frustrating and potentially dangerous experience. Let’s dive into my five expert tips for ensuring a perfect fit, so you can keep your MS170 humming along.

1. Mastering the Three Musketeers: Pitch, Gauge, and Drive Links

Think of pitch, gauge, and drive links as the holy trinity of chainsaw chain compatibility. Getting these wrong is like ordering a pizza with pineapple – technically edible, but just plain wrong.

  • Pitch: This refers to the distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. The MS170 typically uses a 3/8″ low profile pitch. Why low profile? It’s designed for smaller saws, offering smoother cuts and reduced kickback. Using the wrong pitch is like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole – it simply won’t work with the sprocket and bar.

  • Gauge: This is the thickness of the drive links where they fit into the guide bar groove. The MS170 usually requires a gauge of .050″ (1.3mm). A gauge that’s too small will result in a loose chain that wobbles and vibrates, increasing the risk of derailment. A gauge that’s too large simply won’t fit into the bar groove. Imagine trying to squeeze into jeans that are two sizes too small – uncomfortable and ultimately futile.

  • Drive Links: These are the little teeth that fit into the groove of the guide bar. The number of drive links determines the chain’s length and must match the specific bar length of your MS170. For a standard 16″ bar on an MS170, you’ll typically need 55 drive links. Count them carefully! I once spent an hour trying to figure out why a chain was too short, only to realize I’d miscounted by one link. Talk about a facepalm moment!

How to Find These Specs:

  • Owner’s Manual: Your best friend! This should clearly state the correct pitch, gauge, and drive link count for your MS170.
  • Old Chain: If you still have the old chain, look for stamped markings on the drive links. These often indicate the pitch and gauge.
  • Guide Bar: The guide bar itself may also have the specifications etched onto it.

Data Point: Using the incorrect pitch can reduce cutting efficiency by up to 40% and significantly increase wear and tear on your chainsaw.

2. The Guide Bar Guru: Length and Mount Type

The guide bar is the backbone of your cutting operation. Ensuring the replacement chain matches the bar’s length and mount type is crucial for safety and performance.

  • Length: MS170s are commonly equipped with 14″ or 16″ bars. Measure your bar from tip to where it meets the chainsaw body. Don’t assume! I’ve seen many folks accidentally order the wrong size, leading to frustration and wasted time.
  • Mount Type: The mount type refers to the specific configuration of the bar’s mounting holes and studs. While most MS170s use a standard mount, it’s always best to double-check to avoid compatibility issues.

Why This Matters:

  • A chain that’s too short won’t reach around the bar.
  • A chain that’s too long will be loose and prone to derailment, posing a serious safety hazard.
  • An incorrect mount type will prevent the bar from attaching to the chainsaw properly.

Personal Story: I once tried to be clever and use a longer bar on my MS170, thinking it would increase my cutting capacity. Big mistake! The saw was underpowered, the chain kept derailing, and I nearly lost control several times. Lesson learned: stick to the manufacturer’s recommendations!

Actionable Tip: Before ordering a new chain, remove the guide bar and carefully measure its length. Compare this measurement to the specifications in your owner’s manual.

3. Chain Type Considerations: Full Chisel vs. Semi-Chisel vs. Low-Kickback

Chains aren’t created equal. Different chain types are designed for different cutting conditions and user skill levels. Choosing the right type can significantly impact your cutting speed, smoothness, and safety.

  • Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters that slice aggressively through clean wood. They’re the fastest cutting option, but they dull quickly if they come into contact with dirt or debris. I typically use full chisel chains when felling trees in relatively clean areas.

  • Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded cutters that are more forgiving of dirty or knotty wood. They’re not as fast as full chisel chains, but they stay sharp longer and are a good all-around choice for general firewood cutting. I often recommend semi-chisel chains to beginners because they’re more durable and easier to maintain.

  • Low-Kickback: These chains feature safety features like bumper drive links that reduce the risk of kickback. They’re a good choice for inexperienced users or anyone who prioritizes safety. While they may not cut as quickly as other chain types, the added safety is well worth the trade-off.

Understanding Kickback: Kickback occurs when the tip of the guide bar comes into contact with an object, causing the chainsaw to suddenly jerk backwards. This can be extremely dangerous, especially for inexperienced users.

Data Point: Studies have shown that low-kickback chains can reduce the risk of kickback injuries by up to 50%.

Wood Species and Chain Choice:

  • Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): Full chisel chains work well in clean softwoods, providing fast and efficient cutting.
  • Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Hickory): Semi-chisel chains are better suited for hardwoods, as they can withstand the increased wear and tear.
  • Dirty or Knotty Wood: Opt for a semi-chisel or low-kickback chain to minimize dulling and improve safety.

4. Decoding Chain Markings: The Secret Language of Sawdust

Chainsaw chains are often marked with a series of numbers and letters that provide valuable information about their specifications. Learning to decode these markings can help you identify the correct replacement chain for your MS170.

  • Pitch: As mentioned earlier, the pitch is the distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. This is often indicated by a number like “3/8” or “.325.”
  • Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the drive links where they fit into the guide bar groove. This is typically indicated by a number like “.050” or “1.3mm.”
  • Manufacturer Logo: The chain manufacturer’s logo is usually stamped on the drive links. This can help you identify the brand and quality of the chain.
  • Other Markings: Some chains may also have additional markings that indicate the chain type, cutter style, or other specific features.

Example: A chain marked “3/8 LP .050″ indicates a 3/8″ low profile pitch and a .050” gauge.

Actionable Tip: Take a close look at your old chain and try to identify the markings. This can help you narrow down your search for a replacement chain.

5. The Tightening Tango: Tensioning and Break-In

Once you’ve found the perfect replacement chain, it’s time to install it on your MS170. Proper tensioning and break-in are essential for optimal performance and longevity.

  • Installation: Follow the instructions in your owner’s manual for installing the chain on the guide bar. Make sure the chain is facing the correct direction, with the cutters pointing forward.
  • Tensioning: Adjust the chain tension so that it fits snugly around the guide bar but can still be pulled freely by hand. The chain should not sag or droop. A properly tensioned chain will have about 1/8″ of slack.
  • Break-In: Run the chainsaw at idle speed for a few minutes to allow the chain to break in. Then, make a few light cuts to further seat the chain. Re-tension the chain after the break-in period, as it may stretch slightly.

Why Tensioning Matters:

  • Too Loose: A loose chain can derail, causing damage to the chainsaw and posing a safety hazard.
  • Too Tight: A tight chain can overheat, causing excessive wear and tear on the chain, bar, and sprocket.

Lubrication is Key: Always use a high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain. This will reduce friction, prevent overheating, and extend the life of the chain. I prefer using a biodegradable bar and chain oil to minimize my environmental impact.

Data Point: Properly tensioning and lubricating your chainsaw chain can increase its lifespan by up to 25%.

Bonus Tip: Sharpening Savvy – Keep Your Chain Razor Sharp

A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. Learn how to sharpen your chainsaw chain regularly using a file or a chain grinder. I recommend investing in a good quality chainsaw file and learning the proper filing technique. There are plenty of online tutorials and videos that can guide you through the process.

The Sound of Sharpness: A sharp chain will produce clean, even chips of wood. A dull chain will produce sawdust and require more effort to cut.

Sharpening Frequency: Sharpen your chain every time you refuel your chainsaw, or more often if you’re cutting dirty or knotty wood.

Safety First: Always wear gloves and eye protection when sharpening your chainsaw chain.

Real-World Case Studies

Let’s look at a couple of real-world scenarios where choosing the right MS170 replacement chain made all the difference:

Case Study 1: The Weekend Warrior

  • Scenario: A homeowner uses their MS170 to cut firewood for their wood-burning stove. They primarily cut seasoned oak and maple.
  • Challenge: The homeowner was experiencing frequent chain dulling and slow cutting speeds.
  • Solution: I recommended switching from a full chisel chain to a semi-chisel chain. The semi-chisel chain proved to be more durable and held its edge longer when cutting hardwoods.
  • Outcome: The homeowner reported improved cutting speeds, reduced chain dulling, and a more enjoyable firewood cutting experience.

Case Study 2: The Small-Scale Logger

  • Scenario: A small-scale logger uses their MS170 to fell small trees and limb larger trees. They often work in areas with rocky soil and debris.
  • Challenge: The logger was experiencing frequent kickback incidents and chain damage.
  • Solution: I recommended switching to a low-kickback chain. The low-kickback chain significantly reduced the risk of kickback injuries and improved the logger’s overall safety.
  • Outcome: The logger reported a safer and more productive work environment.

Additional Considerations

  • Chain Brands: Stihl, Oregon, and Husqvarna are all reputable chainsaw chain brands. Choose a brand that you trust and that offers a good warranty.
  • Chain Maintenance: Clean your chainsaw chain regularly to remove dirt, debris, and sap. This will help to extend its lifespan and improve its performance.
  • Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.

Conclusion: The Perfect Chain Awaits

Finding the perfect MS170 replacement chain doesn’t have to be a daunting task. By understanding the key specifications – pitch, gauge, drive links, bar length, and chain type – you can confidently choose a chain that will deliver optimal performance, safety, and longevity. Remember to always prioritize safety and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Now, go forth and conquer that woodpile! And remember, a sharp chain is a happy chain, and a happy chain makes for a happy woodcutter. So, keep those blades sharp, stay safe, and enjoy the satisfying feeling of transforming raw wood into a cozy fire.

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