MS170 Chain Replacement Tips (5 Pro Hacks For Faster Cutting)

As the crisp air of autumn settles in, and the scent of woodsmoke begins to fill the evenings, my thoughts invariably turn to the satisfying work of preparing firewood for the long winter ahead. For many homeowners, like myself, the Stihl MS170 is a trusty workhorse, a go-to chainsaw for tackling smaller trees and firewood rounds. However, even the most reliable tools require maintenance, and one of the most common tasks is replacing the chain. Over the years, I’ve developed a few tricks to speed up this process and ensure optimal cutting performance. In this guide, I’ll share my top five pro hacks for faster chain replacement on your MS170, turning what can be a frustrating chore into a smooth, efficient operation.

MS170 Chain Replacement Tips (5 Pro Hacks for Faster Cutting)

Understanding the Importance of a Sharp Chain

Before diving into the hacks, let’s talk about why a sharp chain is paramount. A dull chain not only makes cutting slower and more difficult, but it also puts unnecessary strain on the chainsaw’s engine, potentially shortening its lifespan. More importantly, a dull chain is a safety hazard. It can cause the chainsaw to kickback, increasing the risk of injury.

Personal Story: I remember one particularly cold November day, battling a pile of oak rounds with a severely dulled chain. The saw was bucking and kicking back constantly, and I was exhausting myself just trying to make a simple cut. Finally, I decided to stop and sharpen the chain. The difference was night and day. The saw sliced through the wood effortlessly, and the risk of kickback was significantly reduced. That day, I learned a valuable lesson: a sharp chain is not just about efficiency; it’s about safety.

Key Takeaway: Always prioritize a sharp chain. Sharpening your chain regularly is just as crucial as replacing it.

Hack #1: The Quick-Reference Guide – Mastering Chain Identification

One of the biggest time-wasters when replacing a chain is figuring out the correct replacement. The MS170 uses a specific chain type, and getting it wrong can lead to poor performance and even damage to the saw. I’ve seen countless people struggle with this, often because they’ve lost the original packaging or aren’t sure where to find the information.

The MS170 Chain Specifications:

Pitch: 3/8″ Low Profile (also known as .375″ LP)
Gauge: .050″ (1.3mm)
Drive Links: Typically 50, but always double-check the number stamped on your old chain.

How to Identify Your Chain Without the Packaging:

Check the Driver Link: Look closely at the drive links (the part of the chain that sits in the bar groove). Many chains have the pitch and gauge stamped directly on the drive link. You might see “3/8LP .050” or something similar.
Count the Drive Links: This is the most reliable method. Remove the chain and count each drive link. This number is critical for ordering the correct replacement.
Consult Your Owner’s Manual: The owner’s manual for your MS170 will list the recommended chain specifications. If you’ve misplaced your manual, you can usually find a digital copy on the Stihl website.
Use a Chain Gauge Tool: These inexpensive tools can quickly and accurately measure the pitch and gauge of your chain.
Cross-Reference with Your Bar: The chainsaw bar itself often has the chain specifications stamped on it. Look for markings like “3/8LP .050.”

Why This Matters: Using the wrong chain can cause several problems, including:

Chain Slippage: If the pitch is incorrect, the chain won’t mesh properly with the sprocket, leading to slippage and inefficient cutting.
Bar Damage: An incorrect gauge can cause excessive wear and tear on the bar.
Safety Hazards: A mismatched chain can increase the risk of kickback and other dangerous situations.

Pro Tip: Create a small, laminated card with your MS170’s chain specifications and attach it to the saw. This way, you’ll always have the information readily available.

Actionable Metric: Track how long it takes you to identify the correct chain. Aim to reduce this time to under 2 minutes by using these methods.

Example: I once spent nearly an hour trying to figure out the correct chain for a friend’s MS170. He had lost the packaging, and the markings on the chain were worn. After finally counting the drive links and consulting the owner’s manual, we discovered he had been using the wrong chain for years! This had caused premature wear on his bar and significantly reduced the saw’s cutting performance.

Next Steps: Identify your MS170’s chain specifications using the methods described above. Create a quick-reference guide and attach it to your saw.

Hack #2: The Pre-Tensioning Trick – Ensuring a Perfect Fit

One of the most common issues I see when people replace chainsaw chains is incorrect tensioning. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can bind and overheat. The key is to achieve the perfect balance. This hack involves pre-tensioning the chain before fully tightening the bar nuts.

The Problem with Traditional Tensioning:

The traditional method involves installing the chain, tightening the bar nuts, and then adjusting the tension. However, this often results in the chain being either too loose or too tight after the saw is used for a few minutes. The chain stretches as it heats up, and what seemed like perfect tension initially can quickly become too loose.

The Pre-Tensioning Solution:

Install the Chain: Place the chain on the bar, ensuring the cutting edges are facing the correct direction (they should point forward at the top of the bar).
Mount the Bar: Place the bar onto the saw, aligning the tensioning pin with the hole in the bar.
Snug the Bar Nuts: Tighten the bar nuts just enough to hold the bar in place, but not fully tight. You should still be able to move the bar with some effort.
Pre-Tension: Here’s the trick: Using a screwdriver or the combination wrench that comes with the MS170, gently pull the bar outwards, away from the saw body. This will take up any slack in the chain.
Tighten the Bar Nuts: While holding the bar in this pre-tensioned position, fully tighten the bar nuts.
Check the Tension: Release the bar and check the chain tension. It should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand. You should be able to pull the chain away from the bar about 1/8″ to 1/4″ at the midpoint of the bar.

Why This Works:

Pre-tensioning the chain compensates for the stretching that occurs when the chain heats up during use. By pre-tensioning, you ensure that the chain remains at the correct tension even after it has been used for a while.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

Over-Tensioning: Don’t pull the bar too hard. Over-tensioning can damage the chain and the bar.
Ignoring the Bar Nuts: Always fully tighten the bar nuts after pre-tensioning. Loose bar nuts are a major safety hazard.
Forgetting to Check: Always double-check the chain tension after tightening the bar nuts.

Actionable Metric: Measure the amount of chain you can pull away from the bar at the midpoint after pre-tensioning. Aim for 1/8″ to 1/4″.

Example: I once helped a neighbor who was constantly complaining about his MS170 chain derailing. After watching him replace the chain, I realized he wasn’t pre-tensioning it properly. He was simply tightening the bar nuts and adjusting the tension, which resulted in a chain that was too loose after a few minutes of cutting. After showing him the pre-tensioning trick, his chain derailment issues disappeared.

Next Steps: Practice the pre-tensioning trick the next time you replace your MS170 chain. Pay close attention to the amount of force you use to pull the bar outwards.

Hack #3: The Bar Maintenance Routine – Extending Chain Life

A healthy chainsaw bar is crucial for optimal chain performance and longevity. A damaged or worn bar can cause the chain to bind, wear unevenly, and even derail. I’ve seen firsthand how neglecting bar maintenance can significantly shorten chain life and reduce cutting efficiency.

Common Bar Problems:

Burrs: These are small, raised edges that form on the bar rails due to friction and impact.
Worn Rails: Over time, the bar rails can wear down, creating a wider groove than the chain is designed for.
Bent Bar: A bent bar can cause the chain to bind and wear unevenly.
Lack of Lubrication: Insufficient lubrication can lead to excessive friction and heat, damaging both the chain and the bar.

The Bar Maintenance Routine:

Deburring: Use a flat file to remove any burrs from the bar rails. Hold the file at a slight angle and gently file along the rails, removing any raised edges.
Squaring the Rails: If the bar rails are worn unevenly, use a bar rail dressing tool to square them up. This tool ensures that the rails are parallel and the correct width for the chain.
Cleaning the Bar Groove: Use a small screwdriver or a bar groove cleaner to remove any dirt, sawdust, or debris from the bar groove. A clean groove allows the chain to move freely and ensures proper lubrication.
Checking the Bar for Straightness: Place the bar on a flat surface and check for any bends or warps. A bent bar should be replaced.
Lubrication: Always use a high-quality bar and chain oil. Ensure that the oiler is functioning properly and that the bar and chain are adequately lubricated during use.

Why This Matters:

A well-maintained bar provides a smooth, consistent surface for the chain to ride on, reducing friction and wear. This not only extends the life of the chain but also improves cutting efficiency and reduces the risk of kickback.

Pro Tip: Rotate your bar periodically (flip it over) to ensure even wear on both sides.

Actionable Metric: Inspect your bar after every 5-10 hours of use. Track the amount of burrs and wear on the rails. Aim to reduce the amount of maintenance required by using proper lubrication and avoiding harsh impacts.

Example: I once inherited an old chainsaw from my grandfather. The bar was in terrible condition, with deep burrs and severely worn rails. I spent several hours cleaning, deburring, and squaring the rails. The difference was remarkable. The chainsaw cut much smoother, and the new chain lasted significantly longer.

Next Steps: Inspect your MS170 bar for burrs, wear, and damage. Perform the bar maintenance routine described above.

Hack #4: The Chain Sharpening Secret – Maintaining Peak Performance

While this guide focuses on chain replacement, I can’t overstate the importance of regular chain sharpening. A sharp chain cuts faster, more efficiently, and more safely. I’ve always found that a little time spent sharpening saves a lot of time and effort in the long run.

Why Sharpening Matters:

Increased Cutting Speed: A sharp chain slices through wood effortlessly, reducing cutting time and effort.
Improved Fuel Efficiency: A sharp chain requires less power to cut, resulting in better fuel economy.
Reduced Risk of Kickback: A sharp chain is less likely to grab and kick back.
Extended Chain Life: Sharpening removes only a small amount of metal, while running a dull chain causes excessive wear.

The Chain Sharpening Process:

Secure the Saw: Place the chainsaw in a vise or on a stable surface.
Use the Correct File: Use a round file of the correct diameter for your chain (typically 5/32″ for the MS170).
Maintain the Correct Angle: Use a file guide to maintain the correct sharpening angle (typically 30 degrees).
File Each Cutter: File each cutter evenly, using smooth, consistent strokes.
Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to ensure that the depth gauges (the small tabs in front of each cutter) are at the correct height. File them down if necessary.

Pro Tip: Invest in a good-quality chainsaw sharpening kit. These kits typically include a round file, a flat file, a file guide, and a depth gauge tool.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

Using the Wrong File Size: Using the wrong file size can damage the cutters.
Not Maintaining the Correct Angle: Not maintaining the correct angle can result in uneven sharpening and poor cutting performance.
Ignoring the Depth Gauges: Incorrect depth gauge height can cause the chain to grab and kick back.

Actionable Metric: Sharpen your chain after every 2-3 tanks of fuel, or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance. Track how long it takes you to sharpen the chain. Aim to reduce this time to under 15 minutes with practice.

Personal Story: I remember when I first started using chainsaws, I was intimidated by the sharpening process. I tried to sharpen my chain freehand, without a guide. The results were disastrous. The chain cut poorly, and I ended up damaging several cutters. After investing in a good sharpening kit and learning the proper technique, I was able to sharpen my chain quickly and effectively.

Next Steps: Invest in a chainsaw sharpening kit and learn the proper sharpening technique. Practice sharpening your chain regularly.

Hack #5: The Chain Break-In Procedure – Maximizing Chain Longevity

A new chainsaw chain, like any new tool, benefits from a proper break-in period. This helps to seat the chain properly on the bar, reduce initial stretching, and extend the chain’s overall lifespan. I’ve found that taking the time to break in a new chain can significantly improve its performance and longevity.

Why a Break-In is Important:

Reduced Stretching: A new chain will stretch significantly during its first few hours of use. Breaking it in properly helps to minimize this stretching.
Improved Lubrication: The break-in process helps to distribute lubricant evenly throughout the chain.
Reduced Wear: Breaking in the chain reduces friction and wear, extending its lifespan.

The Chain Break-In Procedure:

Install the Chain: Install the new chain on the bar, following the pre-tensioning trick described earlier.
Initial Cutting: Make a few shallow cuts in soft wood, such as pine or poplar. Avoid cutting hardwoods during the initial break-in period.
Check Tension: After the first few cuts, check the chain tension and adjust as needed. New chains tend to stretch quickly during the initial break-in.
Cool Down: Allow the chain to cool down completely after the initial cutting. This allows the metal to contract and helps to seat the chain properly.
Repeat: Repeat the process of making a few shallow cuts, checking the tension, and allowing the chain to cool down several times.
Gradual Increase: Gradually increase the depth and duration of your cuts as the chain breaks in.
Sharpening: After the break-in period (typically 1-2 hours of use), sharpen the chain. This will remove any burrs or imperfections that may have formed during the break-in process.

Pro Tip: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil during the break-in period. This will help to lubricate the chain and reduce friction.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

Cutting Hardwoods Too Soon: Avoid cutting hardwoods during the initial break-in period. Hardwoods can put excessive strain on a new chain.
Ignoring Tension: Check the chain tension frequently during the break-in period. New chains tend to stretch quickly.
Overheating: Avoid overheating the chain during the break-in period. Allow it to cool down frequently.

Actionable Metric: Track the amount of stretching that occurs during the break-in period. Measure the chain tension before and after each cutting session. Aim to minimize the amount of stretching by following the break-in procedure.

Example: I once ignored the break-in procedure for a new chainsaw chain. I immediately started cutting large oak rounds. The chain stretched excessively, and I had to adjust the tension constantly. The chain also wore out much faster than expected. Since then, I always take the time to break in new chains properly.

Next Steps: Follow the chain break-in procedure the next time you install a new chain on your MS170. Pay close attention to the chain tension and avoid overheating.

By implementing these five pro hacks, I’m confident that you’ll be able to replace your MS170 chain faster, more efficiently, and more safely. Remember, a sharp chain, a well-maintained bar, and a proper break-in procedure are all essential for optimal performance and longevity. Now, get out there and tackle that firewood pile!

MS170 Chain Replacement Tips (5 Pro Hacks for Faster Cutting)