MS 661C Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Hacks For Faster Wood Processing)

Imagine this: Before, my firewood prep was a grueling, all-day affair. I’d wrestle with logs, constantly fighting kickback, and feeling every vibration of my old chainsaw in my bones. My woodpile was a chaotic mess, and my back ached for days. Now? After implementing these hacks with my Stihl MS 661C, I’m processing wood faster, safer, and with significantly less fatigue. My woodpile is neatly stacked, drying efficiently, and I’ve got more time to actually enjoy the warmth of the fire I’m building. This article isn’t just about chainsaw tips; it’s about transforming your wood processing experience.

MS 661C Chainsaw Tips: 5 Pro Hacks for Faster Wood Processing

The Stihl MS 661C is a beast of a chainsaw. It’s designed for professional logging and demanding forestry work. But even the best tool needs the right technique to unlock its full potential. These five hacks are what I’ve learned through years of experience in the woods, from felling trees to prepping firewood, maximizing the efficiency and safety of your MS 661C. This isn’t just about cutting faster; it’s about working smarter.

1. Mastering the Bore Cut (aka Plunge Cut) for Efficient Felling and Bucking

The bore cut, also known as the plunge cut, is a game-changer when used correctly. It’s a technique where you plunge the tip of the chainsaw bar into the wood, creating a kerf (the cut made by the saw) without cutting from the outside edge first.

Why is it so effective?

Reduced Pinching: By creating an internal cut, you relieve pressure on the bar, minimizing the risk of pinching, which can stall the saw and even cause kickback.
Precise Control: Allows for extremely precise cuts, particularly useful when felling trees to control the direction of the fall or when bucking large logs to avoid binding.
Faster Bucking: When bucking large logs, you can bore cut from the top, leaving a hinge of uncut wood. Then, cut upwards from the bottom to meet the bore cut, resulting in a cleaner, faster cut with reduced risk of the log splitting unevenly.

Step-by-Step Guide to the Bore Cut:

Safety First: Ensure you have a clear work area, wear appropriate safety gear (helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chaps, and steel-toed boots), and that the chainsaw is in good working order with a sharp chain.
Starting Position: Position yourself securely, with a stable stance and a clear line of sight to the cut.
Engage the Chain Brake (Initially): While practicing, engage the chain brake to ensure the chain doesn’t move unintentionally. This step is more for learning.
Grip and Control: Grip the chainsaw firmly with both hands. Use your body weight to help control the saw.
The Plunge: With the chain brake disengaged, carefully touch the tip of the bar to the wood at a slight angle. Gradually increase the angle as the chain begins to bite. The key is to let the saw do the work; don’t force it.
Maintain Control: As the bar plunges into the wood, maintain a steady pressure and keep the saw moving smoothly. Avoid jerky movements, which can cause the saw to kick back.
Creating the Kerf: Once the bar is fully submerged, you can manipulate the angle of the saw to create the desired kerf.
Exiting the Cut: To exit the cut, slowly withdraw the saw, maintaining control and avoiding any sudden movements.

Case Study: Felling a Leaning Oak with a Bore Cut:

I once had to fell a large oak tree that was leaning precariously towards a neighbor’s property. The situation was complicated because a direct fell could damage their shed. Using a bore cut, I was able to create a precise hinge that directed the fall away from the shed.

Challenge: The tree’s lean and proximity to the shed.
Solution: A carefully executed bore cut to create a holding wood hinge.
Steps:
- I assessed the lean and the surrounding area.
- I made a conventional notch cut on the side of the tree facing the desired direction of fall (away from the shed).
- Then, I made a bore cut from the back of the tree, leaving a hinge of about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
- Finally, I drove wedges into the back cut to encourage the tree to fall in the intended direction.
Outcome: The tree fell perfectly, avoiding any damage to the shed.

Data and Insights:

Time Savings: In my experience, using a bore cut for bucking large logs can reduce cutting time by 20-30% compared to traditional methods.
Reduced Kickback Risk: Proper bore cut technique significantly reduces the risk of kickback, especially in situations where the wood is under tension.
Wood Type Considerations: The bore cut is particularly effective on hardwoods like oak and maple, which are more prone to pinching.

Tool Specifications:

Chainsaw: Stihl MS 661C with a 25-inch bar.
Chain: Stihl Rapid Duro 3 (carbide-tipped chain for extended sharpness).
Wedges: Plastic felling wedges.

Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced. Practice on smaller logs before attempting on larger trees.

2. Chain Sharpening: The Key to Unlocking Power and Efficiency

A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It forces you to work harder, increases the risk of kickback, and wastes fuel. A sharp chain, on the other hand, bites into the wood effortlessly, making cutting faster, safer, and more enjoyable.

Why Sharpening Matters:

Safety: A sharp chain reduces the risk of kickback and allows for more controlled cutting.
Efficiency: A sharp chain cuts faster, reducing the amount of time and effort required to process wood.
Chainsaw Longevity: A sharp chain puts less strain on the chainsaw engine, extending its lifespan.

Step-by-Step Guide to Chainsaw Sharpening:

Gather Your Tools: You’ll need a chainsaw file (size appropriate for your chain – typically 5/32″ for smaller chains, 3/16″ for larger ones), a file guide (optional, but highly recommended for beginners), a depth gauge tool, a flat file, and a vise to secure the chainsaw bar.
Secure the Chainsaw: Place the chainsaw in a vise, ensuring the bar is stable and doesn’t move.
Identify the Cutting Angle: The cutting angle is typically marked on the chainsaw chain or can be found in the chainsaw manual.
File Each Cutter: Using the chainsaw file and file guide (if applicable), file each cutter from the inside out, maintaining the correct angle and depth. Apply gentle, even pressure.
Consistent Strokes: Use the same number of strokes for each cutter to ensure they are all sharpened to the same degree. I usually use 3-5 strokes per cutter.
Check and Adjust Depth Gauges: After sharpening, use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges (the small metal tabs in front of each cutter). If they are too high, the chain won’t cut effectively. Use the flat file to file them down to the correct height.
Test the Chain: After sharpening, test the chain on a piece of wood. A sharp chain will pull itself into the wood with minimal pressure.

Personal Story:

I remember one time, I was working on a large firewood project, and my chain got incredibly dull. I kept trying to power through, thinking I could save time by not stopping to sharpen. Big mistake! Not only was I working much harder, but the saw started kicking back more frequently, and I almost lost control a couple of times. That day, I learned the hard way that a sharp chain is not just about efficiency; it’s about safety.

Data and Insights:

Sharpening Frequency: I recommend sharpening your chain after every 2-3 hours of use, or more frequently if you’re cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
File Angle: Maintaining the correct file angle is crucial for effective sharpening. A file guide can help ensure consistency.
Chain Type: Different chain types (e.g., chisel, semi-chisel, micro-chisel) require slightly different sharpening techniques. Consult your chainsaw manual for specific recommendations.

Tool Specifications:

Chainsaw File: Stihl chainsaw file (size appropriate for your chain).
File Guide: Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File.
Depth Gauge Tool: Stihl depth gauge tool.
Vise: Portable chainsaw vise.

Skill Level: Beginner to Intermediate. With practice, anyone can learn to sharpen a chainsaw chain effectively.

3. Optimizing Chain and Bar Lubrication: Preventing Wear and Tear

Proper lubrication is essential for the longevity and performance of your chainsaw. It reduces friction between the chain and the bar, preventing wear and tear and ensuring smooth cutting.

Why Lubrication Matters:

Reduced Friction: Lubrication minimizes friction, preventing the chain and bar from overheating.
Extended Lifespan: Proper lubrication extends the lifespan of the chain, bar, and chainsaw engine.
Improved Cutting Performance: A well-lubricated chain cuts more efficiently, reducing the amount of effort required to process wood.

Step-by-Step Guide to Chain and Bar Lubrication:

Use the Right Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication and can damage the chainsaw. I personally prefer Stihl BioPlus chain oil because it’s biodegradable and environmentally friendly.
Check the Oil Level: Before each use, check the oil level in the chainsaw’s oil tank and refill as needed.
Adjust the Oiler: Most chainsaws have an adjustable oiler that allows you to control the amount of oil delivered to the chain and bar. Adjust the oiler so that the chain is adequately lubricated without excessive oil splatter. A good rule of thumb is to adjust the oiler so that you see a light spray of oil coming off the chain when the saw is running at full throttle.
Clean the Bar and Chain Regularly: After each use, clean the bar and chain with a brush or rag to remove sawdust and debris. This will help prevent the oiler from clogging and ensure proper lubrication.
Inspect the Bar: Regularly inspect the bar for wear and tear, such as burrs or grooves. If you find any damage, repair or replace the bar as needed.

Personal Experience:

I once neglected to check the oil level in my chainsaw before starting a large firewood project. About halfway through the day, the chain started smoking and binding, and I quickly realized what had happened. I had run the saw dry! Fortunately, I caught it in time, and no serious damage was done. But it was a valuable lesson about the importance of proper lubrication.

Data and Insights:

Oil Consumption: A typical chainsaw will consume about 1 ounce of bar and chain oil per minute of use.
Oil Type: Synthetic bar and chain oils offer superior lubrication and protection compared to conventional oils, especially in cold weather.
Environmental Considerations: Consider using biodegradable bar and chain oils to minimize your environmental impact.

Tool Specifications:

Bar and Chain Oil: Stihl BioPlus chain oil.
Oiler Adjustment Tool: Screwdriver (typically a flathead).
Cleaning Brush: Stihl cleaning brush.

Skill Level: Beginner. Proper lubrication is a simple but essential maintenance task that anyone can perform.

4. Utilizing Proper Felling Techniques: Ensuring Safety and Control

Felling a tree is a complex and potentially dangerous task. Proper felling techniques are essential for ensuring the safety of yourself and others, as well as for controlling the direction of the fall.

Why Felling Techniques Matter:

Safety: Proper felling techniques minimize the risk of accidents and injuries.
Control: Felling techniques allow you to control the direction of the fall, preventing damage to property or other trees.
Efficiency: Proper felling techniques make the process faster and easier.

Step-by-Step Guide to Felling a Tree:

Assess the Tree and Surroundings: Before felling a tree, carefully assess the tree’s lean, size, and condition, as well as the surrounding area. Look for any obstacles, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees. Identify the escape routes you will use after making the final cut.
Plan the Felling Direction: Determine the desired felling direction, taking into account the tree’s lean, wind direction, and any obstacles in the area.
Clear the Area: Clear the area around the base of the tree of any brush, debris, or obstacles that could impede your movement.
Make the Notch Cut: The notch cut is a wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree facing the desired felling direction. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter. The top cut of the notch should be angled down at about 45 degrees, and the bottom cut should be horizontal.
Make the Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. The back cut should be horizontal and should be made slightly above the bottom of the notch cut. Leave a hinge of uncut wood between the back cut and the notch cut. The hinge will help control the direction of the fall.
Drive Wedges (if necessary): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction or if you need to ensure a precise fall, drive wedges into the back cut to encourage the tree to fall in the desired direction.
Final Cut: The final cut is made by carefully cutting through the hinge. As the tree begins to fall, move quickly and safely away from the tree along your pre-planned escape routes.

Case Study: Felling a Back-Leaning Pine:

I was once tasked with felling a large pine tree that was leaning significantly backwards. This presented a challenge because the tree was likely to fall back onto the stump, potentially causing damage to the surrounding area.

Challenge: The tree’s back lean.
Solution: Using a combination of a large notch cut, a strong hinge, and multiple wedges.
Steps:
- I made a larger than normal notch cut (about 40% of the tree’s diameter) to encourage the tree to tip forward.
- I left a strong hinge (about 15% of the tree’s diameter) to maintain control of the fall.
- I drove multiple wedges into the back cut, gradually increasing the pressure to encourage the tree to tip forward.
- Finally, I made the final cut through the hinge, and the tree fell perfectly in the desired direction.
Outcome: The tree fell safely and predictably, avoiding any damage to the surrounding area.

Data and Insights:

Notch Cut Size: The size of the notch cut should be proportional to the size of the tree. A larger tree requires a larger notch cut.
Hinge Size: The size of the hinge should be about 10-15% of the tree’s diameter. A larger hinge provides more control, while a smaller hinge allows for a faster fall.
Wedge Placement: Wedges should be placed strategically in the back cut to maximize their effectiveness.

Tool Specifications:

Chainsaw: Stihl MS 661C with a 25-inch or 30-inch bar.
Wedges: Plastic or aluminum felling wedges.
Felling Axe: For driving wedges.

Skill Level: Advanced. Felling trees requires experience and a thorough understanding of felling techniques. It is recommended to take a professional felling course before attempting to fell large trees on your own.

5. Strategic Wood Stacking for Efficient Drying and Storage

Proper wood stacking is crucial for efficient drying and storage of firewood. A well-stacked woodpile allows for good air circulation, which helps to dry the wood quickly and prevents rot and decay.

Why Stacking Matters:

Efficient Drying: Proper stacking promotes air circulation, which accelerates the drying process.
Reduced Rot and Decay: Good air circulation prevents moisture from accumulating, reducing the risk of rot and decay.
Space Optimization: A well-stacked woodpile maximizes storage space.

Step-by-Step Guide to Stacking Firewood:

Choose a Suitable Location: Select a location for your woodpile that is sunny, well-drained, and protected from the elements. Avoid stacking wood directly on the ground, as this will promote moisture absorption and rot.
Create a Base: Create a solid base for your woodpile using pallets, concrete blocks, or large logs. This will elevate the wood off the ground and improve air circulation.
Stack the Wood: Stack the wood in rows, leaving small gaps between each piece to allow for air circulation. Alternate the direction of the rows to create a stable and interlocking structure.
Cap the Woodpile: Cap the top of the woodpile with a tarp or roof to protect the wood from rain and snow.
Monitor Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to monitor the moisture content of the wood. Firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.

Personal Story:

I used to just dump my firewood in a big pile in the corner of my yard. It was a mess, and the wood took forever to dry. I finally decided to build a proper wood shed, and the difference was amazing. The wood dried much faster, and it was much easier to access when I needed it.

Case Study: Building a Cordwood Rack:

I built a cordwood rack using readily available materials to efficiently stack and dry firewood.

Challenge: Efficiently drying a large quantity of firewood in a limited space.
Solution: Building a cordwood rack using 4×4 posts and 2×4 lumber.
Steps:
- I set four 4×4 posts in the ground, spaced 8 feet apart.
- I attached 2×4 lumber to the posts to create a frame.
- I stacked the firewood inside the frame, leaving small gaps between each piece for air circulation.
- I capped the top of the rack with a tarp to protect the wood from rain and snow.
Outcome: The cordwood rack provided a stable and efficient way to stack and dry a large quantity of firewood.

Data and Insights:

Drying Time: Firewood typically takes 6-12 months to dry properly, depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method.
Moisture Content: The ideal moisture content for firewood is 20% or less.
Wood Type: Hardwoods like oak and maple take longer to dry than softwoods like pine and fir.

Tool Specifications:

Moisture Meter: A moisture meter for measuring the moisture content of the wood.
Pallets/Concrete Blocks: For creating a base for the woodpile.
Tarp: For capping the woodpile.

Skill Level: Beginner. Stacking firewood is a simple task that anyone can perform.

By implementing these five pro hacks, you can significantly improve your wood processing efficiency, safety, and enjoyment. The Stihl MS 661C is a powerful tool, and with the right techniques, you can unlock its full potential and tackle any wood processing task with confidence. Now get out there and put these tips to work! Don’t forget to always prioritize safety and wear the appropriate protective gear. Good luck!

MS 661C Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Hacks for Faster Wood Processing)