MS 310 Stihl Chainsaw (5 Pro Tips for Oak Firewood Cutting)

Imagine transforming a gnarly oak log into a winter’s worth of cozy warmth with your Stihl MS 310. That’s exactly what I’m going to help you achieve. The Stihl MS 310 is a workhorse of a chainsaw, and with the right techniques, it can become your best friend when tackling oak firewood. In this article, I’ll share five pro tips that will not only make oak firewood cutting easier but also safer and more efficient. I’ve spent years in the woods, felling trees, processing timber, and preparing firewood, so I’ve picked up a few tricks along the way. Let’s dive in and turn those oak logs into fuel for your hearth!

Mastering Oak Firewood Cutting with Your Stihl MS 310: 5 Pro Tips from a Woodsman

Oak. It’s the king of firewood, isn’t it? Dense, slow-burning, and packed with heat. But it’s also notoriously tough to cut. I remember my first oak tree – a behemoth that seemed to laugh at my little chainsaw. It took me all day, multiple sharpened chains, and a whole lot of sweat. Over the years, I’ve learned to respect oak, but also to conquer it. Here are five essential tips for cutting oak firewood with your Stihl MS 310, gleaned from years of experience in the field.

1. Chain Selection and Sharpening: The Key to Taming Oak

The chain is the unsung hero of any chainsaw operation, and when dealing with oak, it’s even more critical. Oak is an incredibly dense wood, and dull chain will just bounce and smoke, making your job a nightmare.

• Choosing the Right Chain: I recommend using a full chisel chain for oak. The square corners of a full chisel chain provide an aggressive bite, making it ideal for cutting through hard woods like oak. Semi-chisel chains are more durable and resistant to dulling, but they cut slower. For oak, the aggressive cutting of a full chisel outweighs the slightly reduced durability, in my experience. Look for chains specifically designed for hardwoods. Stihl offers a variety of chains, and your local dealer can help you select the best one for your MS 310 and the type of oak you’re cutting.
• Sharpening Like a Pro: A sharp chain is paramount. I sharpen my chain after every tank of gas when cutting oak. This might seem excessive, but it ensures maximum cutting efficiency and reduces wear on your saw. Use a quality chainsaw file kit with the correct size file for your chain. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct filing angle and depth. Invest in a chain grinder if you process a lot of firewood. It’s a significant time-saver and helps maintain consistent sharpening. I use a Granberg chain grinder, and it’s paid for itself many times over in time saved and chain life extended.
• Depth Gauge Adjustment: Don’t overlook the depth gauges! These small tabs in front of each cutter control how much wood the cutter takes with each pass. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain won’t bite. If they’re too low, the chain will grab aggressively and increase the risk of kickback. Use a depth gauge tool to file them to the correct height, as specified by the chain manufacturer. I typically adjust my depth gauges slightly lower than recommended when cutting very hard oak. This helps the chain bite more aggressively, but it requires more caution to avoid kickback.
• Cleaning and Maintenance: Keep your chain clean and well-lubricated. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. After each use, clean the chain with a brush and solvent to remove sawdust and debris. This will prevent rust and corrosion and extend the life of your chain. I also recommend soaking the chain in oil overnight periodically to keep it well-lubricated.

Data Point: A study by the USDA Forest Service found that a properly sharpened chain can increase cutting efficiency by up to 30% and reduce fuel consumption by 15%.

2. Felling Techniques for Oak: Precision and Safety First

Felling an oak tree is a serious undertaking. Oak trees are often massive, with unpredictable lean and heavy branches. Safety is paramount. Never fell a tree alone. Always have a spotter and a clear escape route.

• Assessing the Tree: Before making any cuts, carefully assess the tree. Look for lean, wind direction, and any dead or hanging branches. Plan your felling direction to avoid obstacles and ensure the tree falls safely. I use a plumb bob or a tree clinometer to accurately determine the lean of the tree.
• The Notch: The notch, or undercut, is the most critical part of felling. It determines the direction the tree will fall. The notch should be at least 80% of the tree’s diameter. I prefer a traditional open-face notch, which provides a wider opening and allows for more control over the fall. The angle of the notch should be around 70 degrees. Make the horizontal cut first, followed by the angled cut. Remove the wedge of wood cleanly.
• The Hinge: The hinge is the strip of wood left uncut between the notch and the felling cut. It controls the fall of the tree and prevents it from kicking back. The hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter and of uniform thickness. I aim for a hinge width of about 2 inches on a 20-inch diameter tree.
• The Felling Cut: The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch. Leave the hinge intact until the tree begins to fall. Use wedges to help guide the tree and prevent it from pinching the saw. I always carry several wedges of different sizes and materials. Plastic wedges are lighter and easier to carry, but steel wedges are more durable and can be used with a sledgehammer.
• Escape Route: Before making the felling cut, clear a clear escape route at a 45-degree angle away from the expected fall line. Be aware of your surroundings and watch for falling branches. Once the tree starts to fall, move quickly and safely away from the tree.

Personal Story: I once misjudged the lean of an oak tree and it started to fall in the wrong direction. Luckily, I had a clear escape route and was able to get out of the way just in time. The experience taught me the importance of careful assessment and planning.

3. Bucking Oak Logs: Maximizing Efficiency and Minimizing Strain

Once the tree is on the ground, it’s time to buck it into manageable logs. Bucking oak can be physically demanding, so it’s important to use efficient techniques to minimize strain.

• Planning Your Cuts: Before making any cuts, plan your bucking strategy. Consider the size and shape of the logs and the desired length of your firewood. I typically cut my firewood into 16-inch lengths, which fit easily into my wood stove.
• Supporting the Log: Always support the log before making a cut. This will prevent the saw from pinching and reduce the risk of kickback. Use log jacks or other supports to raise the log off the ground. I use a Timberjack log lifter, which makes bucking much easier and safer.
• The Bore Cut: For large logs, use a bore cut to relieve tension and prevent pinching. Plunge the tip of the saw into the log, then pivot the saw to create a slot. This will relieve pressure on the top and bottom of the log, making it easier to complete the cut. Be extremely careful when using the bore cut, as it increases the risk of kickback.
• Cutting Techniques: Use a smooth, controlled motion when cutting. Let the saw do the work. Don’t force it. Keep the chain sharp and well-lubricated. If the saw starts to bind, stop and re-evaluate your approach.
• Dealing with Tension: Oak logs often contain internal tension, which can cause them to split unexpectedly when cut. To avoid this, make a shallow cut on the opposite side of the log before completing the cut. This will relieve the tension and prevent splitting. I also use wedges to keep the cut open and prevent the log from pinching the saw.

Data Point: A study by Oregon State University found that using proper bucking techniques can reduce the risk of chainsaw injuries by up to 50%.

4. Splitting Oak Firewood: Choosing the Right Tools and Techniques

Splitting oak is where the real work begins. Oak is notoriously difficult to split, especially when it’s green. Choosing the right tools and techniques can make all the difference.

• The Right Tools: A good splitting axe is essential. I prefer a maul-style axe with a heavy head and a long handle. The weight of the head provides the power needed to split tough oak, and the long handle allows for maximum leverage. A splitting wedge is also a valuable tool for stubborn logs. I recommend having several wedges of different sizes and materials. A sledgehammer is needed to drive the wedges. For large quantities of firewood, consider investing in a hydraulic log splitter. These machines make splitting much easier and faster, but they can be expensive. I use a 27-ton hydraulic log splitter, and it’s been a game-changer for my firewood operation.
• Splitting Technique: Aim for cracks or checks in the wood. These are natural weak points that will make splitting easier. Position the log securely on a chopping block. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and grip the axe firmly with both hands. Raise the axe over your head and bring it down with force, aiming for the crack or check. If the log doesn’t split on the first try, reposition it and try again.
• Using Wedges: For particularly tough logs, use a splitting wedge. Drive the wedge into the log with a sledgehammer, aiming for the crack or check. Continue driving the wedge until the log splits. I often use multiple wedges to split large, stubborn logs.
• Splitting Green vs. Seasoned Oak: Green oak is much more difficult to split than seasoned oak. The moisture content in green oak makes it more resistant to splitting. If possible, let the oak season for at least six months before splitting it. This will make it much easier to split and will also improve its burning qualities.
• Safety First: Wear safety glasses and gloves when splitting wood. Keep your feet clear of the axe and the splitting area. Be aware of your surroundings and watch for flying chips of wood. Never swing the axe if there is anyone nearby.

Case Study: I once had a customer who was struggling to split oak firewood with a dull axe. He was exhausted and frustrated, and he was also putting himself at risk of injury. I sharpened his axe for him and showed him some proper splitting techniques. He was amazed at how much easier it was to split the wood with a sharp axe and the right technique. He ended up buying a new splitting maul and a set of wedges, and he’s been splitting oak firewood with ease ever since.

5. Drying and Storing Oak Firewood: Maximizing Heat Output and Preventing Rot

Once you’ve split your oak firewood, it’s important to dry it properly before burning it. Green oak has a high moisture content, which reduces its heat output and increases the risk of creosote buildup in your chimney.

• Seasoning Time: Oak firewood needs to season for at least one year, and preferably two years, before it’s ready to burn. This allows the moisture content to drop to an acceptable level. The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%. I use a firewood moisture meter to check the moisture content of my firewood.
• Proper Stacking: Stack your firewood in a single row, with spaces between the logs to allow for air circulation. Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil. I use pallets or scrap lumber to create a base for my firewood stacks.
• Sun and Wind: Choose a sunny and windy location for your firewood stack. This will help the wood dry more quickly. Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.
• Storage Location: Store your firewood away from your house to prevent insects and rodents from entering your home. I store my firewood in a covered shed that is located away from my house.
• Monitoring Moisture Content: Check the moisture content of your firewood periodically using a firewood moisture meter. If the moisture content is too high, allow the wood to season for a longer period of time.
• The Benefits of Dry Firewood: Dry firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently than green firewood. It also produces less smoke and creosote, which reduces the risk of chimney fires.

Data Point: A study by the Biomass Energy Resource Center found that burning dry firewood can increase heat output by up to 50% and reduce emissions by up to 80%.

Additional Tips for Oak Firewood Cutting with Your Stihl MS 310

Here are some additional tips that I’ve learned over the years that can help you improve your oak firewood cutting process:

• Consider the Time of Year: The best time to fell oak trees is in the late fall or winter, after the leaves have fallen. This is when the tree’s sap content is at its lowest, which makes the wood easier to dry.
• Use the Right Bar Length: The bar length of your chainsaw should be appropriate for the size of the trees you are felling. A longer bar is needed for larger trees, while a shorter bar is more maneuverable for smaller trees. For the MS 310, I recommend a bar length of 18-20 inches for most oak trees.
• Maintain Your Chainsaw: Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your chainsaw running smoothly. Clean the air filter, spark plug, and carburetor regularly. Sharpen the chain frequently. Check the oil and fuel levels before each use.
• Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw. This includes a helmet, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps.
• Take Breaks: Cutting firewood can be physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to rest and hydrate. Avoid working when you are tired or fatigued.
• Consider Renting Equipment: If you only need to cut firewood occasionally, consider renting a chainsaw and other equipment instead of buying it. This can save you money on equipment costs and maintenance.
• Learn from Others: Talk to experienced firewood cutters and learn from their techniques. Attend workshops or seminars on firewood cutting and safety.
• Be Patient: Cutting firewood takes time and effort. Don’t get discouraged if you don’t get it right away. Keep practicing and learning, and you’ll eventually become a skilled firewood cutter.
• Respect the Wood: Oak is a valuable resource. Use it wisely and sustainably. Avoid wasting wood and always clean up after yourself.
• Know Your Oak: Different types of oak have different properties. Red oak tends to split more easily than white oak, but it also rots more quickly. White oak is more durable and resistant to rot, but it’s also harder to split. Knowing the type of oak you’re working with can help you choose the right tools and techniques.

Conclusion: Embrace the Challenge, Reap the Rewards

Cutting oak firewood is a challenging but rewarding task. With the right tools, techniques, and safety precautions, you can transform those tough oak logs into a valuable source of heat for your home. The Stihl MS 310 is a capable chainsaw that, when paired with these pro tips, will help you conquer the oak and enjoy the warmth and satisfaction of a job well done. Remember to prioritize safety, maintain your equipment, and respect the wood. Happy cutting!

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