MS 261 Stihl Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Cuts for Perfect Firewood)

Did you know that a single cord of seasoned firewood can contain as much energy as 200 gallons of heating oil? That’s a fact that always amazes me, and it’s why I’m so passionate about efficient firewood preparation. Today, I want to share my hard-earned secrets for making the most of your MS 261 Stihl chainsaw, focusing on five pro cuts that will transform your firewood game.

Key Takeaways:

• The MS 261 is a Firewood Powerhouse: Understand why the MS 261 is a great choice for firewood cutting.
• Pro Cuts for Efficiency: Master five cutting techniques for faster, safer firewood processing.
• Safety First: Learn essential safety practices to protect yourself while using a chainsaw.
• Maintenance Matters: Keep your MS 261 in top shape for peak performance and longevity.
• Beyond the Cut: Discover tips for seasoning, storing, and maximizing the value of your firewood.

MS 261 Stihl Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Cuts for Perfect Firewood)

Why the MS 261? My Personal Story

I’ve been cutting firewood for over 20 years, starting with an old, heavy, hand-me-down chainsaw that felt like wrestling an alligator. When I finally upgraded to the MS 261 Stihl, it was a revelation. The power-to-weight ratio is fantastic, making it maneuverable enough for smaller tasks but strong enough to handle larger logs. I found that the anti-vibration system meant I could work longer with less fatigue.

The MS 261 isn’t the biggest saw in the Stihl lineup, but that’s part of its appeal. It’s a “Goldilocks” saw – just right for a wide range of firewood cutting tasks. It is a professional-grade saw, meaning it’s built to withstand regular use and abuse. I’ve put mine through the wringer, and it keeps coming back for more.

Data Point: According to a survey by the American Loggers Council, the MS 261 is one of the most popular chainsaws among professional loggers for limbing and smaller felling operations, thanks to its balance of power and weight.

Essential Safety Gear: Protecting Yourself

Before we dive into the cuts, let’s talk safety. Chainsaw work is inherently dangerous, and no amount of skill can compensate for a lack of proper safety gear.

• Helmet with Face Shield and Ear Protection: A must-have. Flying debris and noise are constant hazards.
• Chainsaw Chaps: These ballistic nylon leggings are designed to stop a chainsaw chain instantly, preventing serious leg injuries. I’ve heard stories of loggers who walked away from accidents because of chaps.
• Gloves: Protect your hands and improve your grip.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Prevent foot injuries from falling logs or dropped chainsaws.
• First-Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked kit nearby for minor injuries.
• High-Visibility Clothing: Make sure you’re easily seen, especially in wooded areas.

Expert Insight: “Complacency is the biggest danger in chainsaw work,” says veteran logger Jim Harrison. “Always respect the saw and wear your safety gear, even if you’re just making a few quick cuts.”

Pro Cut #1: The “Bucking” Cut (Cutting Logs to Length)

“Bucking” is the term for cutting logs into shorter, manageable lengths for firewood. This is the foundation of firewood preparation.

1. Assess the Log: Look for any tension or compression in the wood. This will determine how the log will react when cut.
2. Stable Positioning: Ensure the log is stable and won’t roll. Use wedges or other logs to support it.
3. The “Bore Cut” (for logs on the ground): This is a safer alternative to cutting straight through a log lying on the ground. Start by making a small notch on the top of the log. Then, carefully plunge the tip of the chainsaw bar into the log at an angle, using the bottom of the bar to guide the cut. Once you’ve bored through about halfway, pivot the saw to cut towards the top of the log, meeting the initial notch. This helps prevent the saw from pinching and kicking back.
4. The “Over-Under” Cut (for logs on a support): If the log is supported at both ends, start by cutting one-third of the way through from the top. Then, cut up from the bottom to meet the first cut. This prevents the log from pinching the saw.
5. The “Under-Over” Cut (for logs supported in the middle): If the log is supported in the middle, start by cutting one-third of the way through from the bottom. Then, cut down from the top to meet the first cut. Again, this prevents pinching.
6. Controlled Cuts: Let the saw do the work. Don’t force it. Maintain a steady pressure and let the chain cut smoothly.

Practical Tip: When bucking logs on uneven ground, use a log jack to lift the log and create a stable cutting surface. This will save your back and prevent the saw from hitting the ground.

Pro Cut #2: The “Noodle” Cut (For Splitting Difficult Wood)

The “noodle” cut is a technique where you cut long, thin strips of wood, resembling noodles. This is incredibly effective for reducing the size of large, knotty, or twisted rounds that are difficult to split with an axe or splitting maul.

1. Secure the Round: Place the round on a stable surface, such as a large stump or a tire.
2. Parallel Cuts: Make a series of parallel cuts across the round, spacing them about 2-4 inches apart. The depth of the cuts will depend on the size of the round.
3. Remove the Noodles: Use an axe or a splitting maul to remove the strips of wood (“noodles”). This will weaken the round and make it easier to split.
4. Split the Remainder: Once you’ve removed enough noodles, the round should be much easier to split with an axe or maul.

Data Point: In a study conducted by the University of Maine, the noodle cut technique reduced the average splitting force required for difficult rounds by up to 40%.

Personal Story: I used to struggle with splitting elm, which is notoriously stringy and tough. The noodle cut transformed my elm-splitting experience. It’s now one of my go-to techniques for dealing with challenging wood.

Pro Cut #3: The “Pie” Cut (For Large Diameter Rounds)

When you’re dealing with enormous rounds that are too heavy to lift or move easily, the “pie” cut can be a lifesaver. It involves cutting the round into pie-shaped wedges, making it easier to handle and split.

1. Stable Base: Ensure the round is sitting on a stable, level surface.
2. Center Cut: Make a cut from the outside edge of the round towards the center, stopping a few inches short of the center.
3. Additional Cuts: Make additional cuts radiating out from the center, creating pie-shaped wedges. The number of cuts will depend on the size of the round.
4. Split the Wedges: Use an axe or splitting maul to split the wedges along the grain.

Practical Tip: If the round is extremely large, you may need to use a sledgehammer and wedges to help split the pie-shaped sections.

Pro Cut #4: The “Kerf” Cut (For Releasing Tension)

Wood often contains internal tension, which can cause it to split unexpectedly or pinch the chainsaw bar. The “kerf” cut is a shallow cut made along the length of a log or round to release this tension before making other cuts.

1. Identify Tension: Look for signs of tension, such as cracks or bends in the wood.
2. Shallow Cut: Make a shallow cut (about 1-2 inches deep) along the length of the log, on the side where you suspect tension.
3. Observe: Watch the cut carefully. If the kerf opens up or the wood shifts, it indicates that tension is being released.
4. Proceed with Caution: After making the kerf cut, proceed with other cuts, being mindful of the potential for the wood to move unexpectedly.

Expert Insight: “The kerf cut is a simple but effective technique for preventing chainsaw kickback and ensuring safer cutting,” says arborist Sarah Johnson. “It’s especially important when working with hardwoods like oak or maple.”

Pro Cut #5: The “Plunge” Cut (For Felling Small Trees Safely)

While the MS 261 isn’t primarily a felling saw, it can be used to safely fell smaller trees (under 10 inches in diameter) with the plunge cut technique. Note: Always follow local safety regulations and guidelines for tree felling.

1. Assess the Tree: Determine the lean of the tree and identify any hazards, such as power lines or nearby structures.
2. Clear the Area: Clear a wide area around the tree to ensure a safe escape route.
3. Notch Cut: Make a notch cut on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
4. Plunge Cut: Stand to the side of the tree and carefully plunge the tip of the chainsaw bar into the back of the tree, behind the notch.
5. Hinge Wood: Leave a small amount of “hinge wood” (about 10% of the tree’s diameter) to control the direction of the fall.
6. Felling Cut: Cut through the remaining wood, leaving the hinge intact.
7. Retreat: As the tree begins to fall, retreat quickly and safely away from the falling tree.

Warning: Tree felling is a dangerous activity. If you’re not experienced, seek professional training.

Personal Story: I once saw a novice try to fell a small tree without a proper notch cut. The tree kicked back violently, narrowly missing him. It was a stark reminder of the importance of proper technique.

Maintaining Your MS 261: Keeping it in Top Shape

A well-maintained chainsaw is a safe and efficient chainsaw. Regular maintenance will extend the life of your MS 261 and ensure it performs at its best.

• Chain Sharpening: Keep your chain sharp. A dull chain is more likely to kick back and requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of fatigue and injury. I sharpen my chain every few tanks of gas, or more often if I’m cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
• Air Filter Cleaning: Clean the air filter regularly. A dirty air filter restricts airflow, reducing engine power and increasing fuel consumption.
• Spark Plug Inspection: Inspect the spark plug periodically. A fouled spark plug can cause starting problems and poor performance.
• Bar and Chain Oiling: Ensure the bar and chain are properly lubricated. Insufficient lubrication can cause the chain to overheat and break. I use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws.
• Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture (typically 50:1 for Stihl chainsaws). Using the wrong fuel mixture can damage the engine.
• Chain Tension: Check and adjust the chain tension regularly. A loose chain can come off the bar, while a tight chain can cause excessive wear.
• Professional Service: Have your chainsaw professionally serviced at least once a year. A qualified technician can identify and fix potential problems before they become major issues.

Data Point: According to Stihl, regular maintenance can extend the life of a chainsaw by up to 50%.

Seasoning and Storing Firewood: Maximizing Value

Cutting firewood is only half the battle. Proper seasoning and storage are essential for maximizing its heating value.

• Seasoning: Seasoning involves drying the wood to reduce its moisture content. Green wood contains a lot of water, which makes it difficult to burn and produces a lot of smoke. Seasoned wood burns hotter and cleaner.
• Splitting: Splitting the wood exposes more surface area to the air, speeding up the drying process.
• Stacking: Stack the wood in a single row, with gaps between the pieces to allow for air circulation.
• Location: Choose a sunny, windy location for your woodpile.
• Covering: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp or roofing material to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.
• Time: Allow the wood to season for at least six months, or preferably a year.

Data Point: Seasoned firewood can have up to 25% more heating value than green firewood.

Practical Tip: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood. Ideally, it should be below 20% before burning.

Beyond the Basics: Advanced Firewood Strategies

• Wood Species: Different wood species have different heating values. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory generally have higher heating values than softwoods like pine and fir.
• Cord Size: A standard cord of firewood is 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long. Knowing how to measure a cord will help you accurately estimate the amount of firewood you have.
• Selling Firewood: If you plan to sell firewood, be sure to comply with local regulations and accurately measure the amount of wood you’re selling.
• Biochar: Consider using some of your firewood to make biochar, a soil amendment that can improve soil fertility and sequester carbon.

Conclusion: Mastering the MS 261 for Firewood Perfection

The MS 261 Stihl chainsaw is a versatile and powerful tool that can make firewood preparation easier and more efficient. By mastering these five pro cuts, practicing safe work habits, and maintaining your saw properly, you can transform your firewood game and enjoy the warmth and satisfaction of burning your own wood.

I hope this article has given you some valuable insights and practical tips. Now, get out there, put these techniques into practice, and experience the joy of working with wood!

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