MS 201 T Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Hacks For Faster Wood Processing)

I understand you’re looking to boost your wood processing speed and efficiency using an MS 201 T chainsaw. I’ve spent years in the field, felling trees and processing firewood, and I know the MS 201 T inside and out. It’s a fantastic saw for its size, but like any tool, it has its quirks and limitations. I’m here to share five pro hacks I’ve learned over the years that will help you process wood faster and more safely with your MS 201 T. Let’s get started!

MS 201 T Chainsaw Tips: 5 Pro Hacks for Faster Wood Processing

The Stihl MS 201 T is a popular top-handle chainsaw, favored by arborists and tree care professionals for its lightweight design and maneuverability. However, even with a great saw, efficiency is key to maximizing productivity and minimizing fatigue. These aren’t just theoretical tips; they’re hard-earned lessons from the field.

1. Mastering the Bore Cut: Your Key to Efficient Felling and Limbing

The bore cut, also known as a plunge cut, is a game-changer. It allows you to fell trees and limb branches with greater control and precision, especially in situations where traditional cuts are difficult or dangerous.

Why the Bore Cut Matters

Traditional felling often involves a series of cuts that can be unpredictable. The bore cut lets you control the direction of the fall more precisely, reducing the risk of pinching the bar or damaging surrounding property.

When limbing, the bore cut allows you to remove branches without the risk of kickback that can occur when starting a cut from the top of the branch. This is especially useful for branches under tension. I’ve seen too many accidents caused by improper limbing techniques, and the bore cut significantly reduces that risk.

How to Execute a Perfect Bore Cut with the MS 201 T

Safety First: Ensure you have a clear escape route and that no one is within twice the height of the tree you’re felling. Wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps.
Initial Cut: Make a standard face cut (an angled cut followed by a horizontal cut) to establish the direction of the fall. This should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
Plunge Cut: With the saw running at full throttle, carefully plunge the tip of the bar into the tree behind the face cut. Use the lower portion of the bar to avoid kickback.
Pivoting: Once the bar is fully inserted, pivot the saw to create the hinge. The hinge controls the direction of the fall, so make sure it’s of uniform thickness. I typically aim for a hinge that’s about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
Felling Cut: Complete the felling cut from the opposite side, leaving a small amount of wood to act as a holding wood. This prevents the tree from falling prematurely.
Final Cut: Sever the holding wood to allow the tree to fall in the desired direction.

Bore Cutting for Limbing

Assess the Branch: Before cutting, examine the branch for tension. Branches under tension can snap back violently when cut.
Relieving Tension: Make a small relief cut on the underside of the branch, about a third of the way through.
Bore Cut: Carefully plunge the tip of the bar into the top of the branch, above the relief cut.
Cut Through: Pivot the saw to cut through the branch. The relief cut will prevent the branch from pinching the bar.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Kickback: The most common mistake is using the upper quadrant of the bar tip, which can cause kickback. Always use the lower portion of the bar for plunge cuts.
Pinching the Bar: If the tree or branch starts to pinch the bar, stop immediately. Use wedges to relieve the pressure.
Rushing: Bore cuts require precision and control. Don’t rush the process.

Pro Tip

Practice the bore cut on smaller trees and branches before attempting it on larger, more challenging projects. I spent hours practicing on fallen logs before I felt confident using it in the field.

Case Study: Using the Bore Cut in a Confined Space

I once had to fell a large oak tree in a residential area with limited space. Using traditional felling techniques would have been too risky. The bore cut allowed me to control the direction of the fall with pinpoint accuracy, avoiding damage to surrounding property. It took longer, but it was the safest and most effective method in that situation.

Takeaway

Mastering the bore cut will significantly improve your felling and limbing efficiency, reduce the risk of accidents, and give you greater control over your work.

2. Chain Sharpening Mastery: Maintaining Peak Cutting Performance

A sharp chain is the single most important factor in efficient wood processing. A dull chain not only slows you down but also puts unnecessary strain on your saw and increases the risk of kickback. I can’t stress this enough: a sharp chain is a safe chain.

Why Sharpening Matters

A sharp chain bites into the wood cleanly, requiring less force and reducing the risk of the saw bouncing or kicking back. A dull chain, on the other hand, tears at the wood, creating sawdust instead of chips. This increases the workload on the saw, causing it to overheat and wear out faster.

Choosing the Right Sharpening Tools

File and Guide: The most common and affordable option. A file and guide allow you to sharpen the chain manually, ensuring each tooth is sharpened to the correct angle and depth.
Electric Sharpener: A faster and more precise option, especially for those who sharpen chains frequently. Electric sharpeners can be adjusted to the correct angle and depth for your specific chain.
Depth Gauge Tool: Essential for maintaining the correct depth of the rakers (the small projections in front of each cutting tooth). If the rakers are too high, the chain won’t cut effectively.

For the MS 201 T, which typically uses a 3/8″ Picco chain, you’ll need a 5/32″ (4.0 mm) round file.

Step-by-Step Sharpening Guide

Secure the Saw: Clamp the saw in a vise or secure it to a stump.
Identify the Correct Angle: The correct sharpening angle is usually marked on the chain or in the saw’s manual. For most chains, it’s around 30 degrees.
File Each Tooth: Using the file and guide, file each tooth from the inside out, maintaining the correct angle and depth. Use smooth, consistent strokes. I typically aim for 3-5 strokes per tooth.
Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to check the height of the rakers. If they’re too high, file them down slightly, using a flat file.
Sharpen Consistently: Sharpen each tooth to the same length and angle. Inconsistent sharpening can cause the chain to cut unevenly.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Incorrect Angle: Sharpening at the wrong angle can damage the chain and reduce its cutting efficiency.
Dull File: A dull file will make sharpening more difficult and less effective. Replace your file regularly.
Ignoring the Depth Gauges: Neglecting the depth gauges will prevent the chain from cutting properly, even if the teeth are sharp.

Pro Tip

Sharpen your chain after every few hours of use, or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance. I carry a file and guide with me in the field and sharpen my chain during breaks.

Case Study: The Impact of a Sharp Chain

I once worked on a project where we had to clear a large area of overgrown brush. The first day, I used a dull chain and struggled to make progress. The next day, I sharpened my chain and was amazed at the difference. I was able to cut through the brush much faster and with less effort. It was a clear demonstration of the importance of a sharp chain.

Takeaway

Consistent chain sharpening is crucial for maintaining peak cutting performance, reducing strain on your saw, and improving safety. Invest in the right tools and learn the proper techniques to keep your chain razor-sharp.

3. Optimized Saw Maintenance: Extending the Life of Your MS 201 T

The MS 201 T is a reliable saw, but like any piece of machinery, it requires regular maintenance to keep it running smoothly and prevent costly repairs. I’ve seen too many saws sidelined due to neglect, and it’s always a preventable tragedy.

Why Maintenance Matters

Regular maintenance not only extends the life of your saw but also ensures it operates safely and efficiently. A well-maintained saw is less likely to break down in the middle of a job, saving you time and money.

Essential Maintenance Tasks

Air Filter Cleaning: Clean the air filter after every few hours of use. A dirty air filter restricts airflow, causing the engine to overheat and lose power. Use compressed air or warm, soapy water to clean the filter.
Spark Plug Inspection: Inspect the spark plug regularly for signs of wear or fouling. A worn spark plug can cause starting problems and reduce engine performance. Replace the spark plug as needed. I typically replace mine every six months.
Fuel and Oil Mix: Use the correct fuel and oil mix ratio, as specified in the saw’s manual. Incorrect ratios can damage the engine. I always use a high-quality two-stroke oil and mix it with fresh, high-octane gasoline.
Chain Lubrication: Ensure the chain is properly lubricated at all times. A dry chain will wear out quickly and can cause the bar to overheat. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed.
Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar regularly and check for wear or damage. Remove any burrs or sharp edges with a file. Flip the bar periodically to ensure even wear.
Cooling Fins: Clean the cooling fins on the cylinder regularly. Overheating can cause significant damage to the engine.
Regular Inspection: Before each use, inspect the saw for loose nuts and bolts, damaged parts, or fuel leaks.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Neglecting the Air Filter: A dirty air filter is one of the most common causes of engine problems.
Using the Wrong Fuel Mix: Incorrect fuel mix ratios can cause serious engine damage.
Ignoring Chain Lubrication: A dry chain will wear out quickly and can damage the bar.

Pro Tip

Keep a maintenance log to track when you performed each task. This will help you stay on top of your maintenance schedule and prevent problems before they occur.

Case Study: The Cost of Neglect

I once worked with a crew where one of the workers consistently neglected his saw. He never cleaned the air filter, rarely lubricated the chain, and never bothered to inspect the saw before use. Eventually, the engine seized up due to overheating, and he had to replace the entire saw. The cost of the new saw far outweighed the cost of regular maintenance.

Takeaway

Regular maintenance is essential for extending the life of your MS 201 T, ensuring it operates safely and efficiently, and preventing costly repairs.

4. Ergonomic Techniques: Minimizing Fatigue and Maximizing Endurance

Wood processing is physically demanding work. Using proper ergonomic techniques can help you minimize fatigue, prevent injuries, and maximize your endurance. I’ve learned this the hard way, after years of experiencing back pain and sore muscles.

Why Ergonomics Matters

Poor posture and improper techniques can lead to a variety of musculoskeletal problems, including back pain, carpal tunnel syndrome, and tendonitis. By using proper ergonomic techniques, you can reduce the risk of these injuries and work more comfortably and efficiently.

Key Ergonomic Principles

Maintain Good Posture: Keep your back straight, your shoulders relaxed, and your core engaged. Avoid bending or twisting at the waist.
Use Your Legs: When lifting heavy objects, bend at the knees and use your leg muscles to do the work. Avoid lifting with your back.
Keep the Saw Close: Keep the saw close to your body to reduce strain on your arms and shoulders.
Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to rest and stretch your muscles. Even a few minutes of stretching can make a big difference. I aim for a 15-minute break every hour.
Vary Your Tasks: Alternate between different tasks to avoid repetitive motions.
Proper Grip: Maintain a firm grip on the saw, but avoid gripping too tightly. A tight grip can lead to hand and arm fatigue.
Foot Placement: Ensure you have a stable base. Position your feet shoulder-width apart for balance.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Bending at the Waist: Bending at the waist puts excessive strain on your back.
Lifting with Your Back: Lifting with your back is a major cause of back injuries.
Working in Awkward Positions: Avoid working in awkward positions that put strain on your body.
Ignoring Pain: Don’t ignore pain. If you’re experiencing pain, stop working and rest.

Pro Tip

Invest in comfortable and supportive work boots. Good boots will provide cushioning and support for your feet and ankles, reducing fatigue and preventing injuries.

Case Study: The Impact of Ergonomics on Productivity

I once worked with a crew where the workers were experiencing a high rate of back injuries. We brought in an ergonomics consultant who taught us proper lifting techniques and workstation setup. After implementing these changes, the rate of back injuries decreased significantly, and productivity increased.

Takeaway

Using proper ergonomic techniques can help you minimize fatigue, prevent injuries, and maximize your endurance. Pay attention to your posture, use your legs when lifting, and take frequent breaks to rest and stretch.

5. Strategic Wood Stacking: Optimizing Drying and Storage

Proper wood stacking is essential for efficient drying and storage. Well-stacked wood dries faster, prevents rot, and makes it easier to handle. I’ve seen too many piles of firewood turn into moldy messes due to improper stacking.

Why Stacking Matters

Proper stacking allows air to circulate freely around the wood, promoting faster drying. Dry wood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke. Stacking also prevents the wood from coming into contact with the ground, reducing the risk of rot and insect infestation.

Best Stacking Practices

Choose a Sunny and Windy Location: A sunny and windy location will promote faster drying.
Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground using pallets, cinder blocks, or scrap wood. This will prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood.
Stack in Rows: Stack the wood in rows, with the pieces oriented in the same direction. This will allow air to circulate more freely.
Leave Space Between Rows: Leave a few inches of space between rows to further improve air circulation.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or sheet of metal to protect the wood from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow air to circulate.
Stack Tightly: Stack the wood tightly to prevent it from shifting or collapsing.
Consider the prevailing wind: Orient the rows of wood to take advantage of prevailing winds, optimizing air flow.

Common Stacking Patterns

The Traditional Row Stack: This is the most common stacking pattern. The wood is stacked in rows, with the pieces oriented in the same direction.
The Holtzhausen Stack: This stacking method creates a circular stack that is very stable and allows for good air circulation.
The Criss-Cross Stack: This method involves alternating the direction of the wood in each layer, creating a stable and visually appealing stack.

Wood Drying Times

Drying times vary depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Softwoods like pine and fir dry faster than hardwoods like oak and maple. In general, it takes about 6-12 months for firewood to dry properly.

Softwoods: 6-9 months
Hardwoods: 9-12 months

Measuring Moisture Content

The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%. You can measure the moisture content using a moisture meter, which is a relatively inexpensive tool that can be purchased at most hardware stores.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Stacking Wood on the Ground: Stacking wood on the ground will prevent it from drying properly and increase the risk of rot.
Not Covering the Top: Not covering the top of the stack will allow rain and snow to soak into the wood.
Stacking Wood Too Tightly: Stacking wood too tightly will restrict air circulation and slow down the drying process.

Pro Tip

Label each stack of wood with the date it was stacked and the type of wood. This will help you keep track of which wood is ready to burn.

Case Study: The Impact of Proper Stacking on Burning Efficiency

I once conducted a test where I burned two piles of firewood: one that was properly stacked and dried, and one that was improperly stacked and still damp. The properly stacked wood burned hotter, longer, and produced less smoke. It was a clear demonstration of the importance of proper stacking and drying.

Takeaway

Proper wood stacking is essential for efficient drying and storage. Choose a sunny and windy location, elevate the wood off the ground, stack in rows, leave space between rows, and cover the top.

By implementing these five pro hacks, you can significantly improve your wood processing speed and efficiency with your MS 201 T chainsaw. Remember to prioritize safety, maintain your equipment, and use proper ergonomic techniques. Happy cutting!