MS 170 Chain Guide (5 Expert Tips for Optimal Wood Cutting)

MS 170 Chain Guide (5 Expert Tips for Optimal Wood Cutting)

As someone deeply involved in wood processing, I’ve always been fascinated by the potential for energy savings, not just in my workshop but in the broader context of sustainable forestry. The MS 170 chainsaw is a popular choice for many, from homeowners to small-scale firewood producers, because of its affordability and ease of use. However, like any tool, its performance hinges on proper technique and maintenance. In this guide, I’ll share five expert tips to help you get the most out of your MS 170, maximizing cutting efficiency and minimizing wasted energy.

Understanding the MS 170: A Technical Overview

Before diving into the tips, let’s establish a foundational understanding of the MS 170. This chainsaw is designed for light-duty tasks, such as limbing, pruning, and cutting small-diameter firewood. It’s not a professional-grade saw meant for felling large trees. Knowing its limitations is the first step to optimal use.

• Engine Displacement: Typically around 30.1 cc
• Power Output: Roughly 1.3 kW (1.7 bhp)
• Weight (without bar and chain): Approximately 3.9 kg (8.6 lbs)
• Recommended Bar Length: Usually 12-16 inches

These specifications are crucial because they dictate the type of wood the MS 170 can handle effectively. Trying to force it through excessively large or dense logs will not only damage the saw but also lead to inefficient cutting and increased fuel consumption.

Tip #1: Chain Selection and Sharpening – The Cornerstone of Efficiency

The chain is the heart of any chainsaw. A dull or improperly selected chain will dramatically reduce cutting speed, increase the load on the engine, and waste energy.

Chain Types

For the MS 170, I recommend using a low-kickback chain. These chains are designed with safety in mind, reducing the risk of kickback, which can be a significant hazard, especially for less experienced users. Common chain types include:

• Low-Profile Chain: These are the most common type of chain used on the MS 170. They are designed for safety and ease of use.
• Semi-Chisel Chain: Offers a good balance between cutting speed and durability.
• Full-Chisel Chain: Aggressive cutting but requires more frequent sharpening and is more prone to kickback (not recommended for beginners).

Sharpening Techniques

Regular sharpening is paramount. I personally sharpen my chains after every two to three tanks of fuel, or more frequently if I notice a decrease in cutting performance. The key is to maintain the correct angles and depth gauges.

• Top Plate Angle: Typically 30-35 degrees (consult your chain manufacturer’s specifications).
• Side Plate Angle: Usually 60 degrees.
• Depth Gauge Setting: This is the height difference between the cutter and the raker (also known as the depth gauge). A typical setting is 0.025 inches (0.635 mm), but always refer to the chain manufacturer’s recommendations.

I’ve found that using a chainsaw sharpening kit with a file guide ensures consistent angles and depths. Alternatively, you can use a chainsaw sharpener, which automates the process and can be more precise. However, nothing beats the feel of a hand-sharpened chain, once you master the technique.

Data Point: A study by the Forest Engineering Research Institute of Canada (FERIC) showed that properly sharpened chains can increase cutting productivity by up to 20% and reduce fuel consumption by 15%.

Tip #2: Mastering Cutting Techniques for Optimal Power Use

How you cut wood is just as important as the sharpness of your chain. Using proper techniques minimizes strain on the saw and maximizes cutting efficiency.

Felling Small Trees (Applicable for MS 170 on Very Small Trees Only)

While the MS 170 isn’t ideal for felling large trees, it can be used on very small trees (under 6 inches in diameter). If you’re doing so, follow these steps:

1. Assess the Tree: Check for lean, wind direction, and any hazards (e.g., dead branches).
2. Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles around the tree and create a clear escape path.
3. Make the Notch Cut: Cut a notch on the side of the tree you want it to fall towards. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
4. Make the Felling Cut: Cut from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of wood to control the fall.
5. Retreat Safely: As the tree begins to fall, move away quickly along your escape path.

Safety Note: Felling trees is dangerous work. Always wear appropriate safety gear (helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps) and never work alone. If you’re not comfortable felling a tree, hire a professional.

Limbing and Bucking

• Limbing: Remove branches from a felled tree. Always work from the base of the tree towards the top, keeping the saw between you and the trunk. Use the “pulling” chain (bottom of the bar) to avoid kickback.
• Bucking: Cutting a log into shorter lengths. Ensure the log is properly supported to prevent pinching the chain. Use a sawhorse or other stable platform. When cutting logs on the ground, use the “pushing” chain (top of the bar) to avoid digging into the dirt.

Personal Story: I once spent an entire afternoon struggling to buck a large log with a dull chain and improper technique. I was exhausted, the saw was overheating, and I had barely made any progress. After sharpening the chain and using proper bucking techniques, I finished the job in a fraction of the time and with much less effort. This experience taught me the importance of preparation and technique.

Avoiding Pinching

Pinching occurs when the kerf (the cut made by the chain) closes on the bar, trapping the chain. This can happen when cutting logs that are under tension or compression. To avoid pinching:

• Use Wedges: Insert plastic or wooden wedges into the kerf to keep it open.
• Cut from the Tension Side: If a log is supported at both ends, it will be under tension on the top and compression on the bottom. Cut from the top to prevent pinching. If the log is supported in the middle, it will be under tension on the bottom and compression on the top. Cut from the bottom.

Tip #3: Fuel and Oil Management – The Lifeblood of Your Saw

The MS 170, like all two-stroke engines, requires a specific fuel-to-oil mixture. Using the wrong mixture or neglecting lubrication can lead to engine damage and reduced performance.

Fuel Mixture

The recommended fuel-to-oil ratio for the MS 170 is typically 50:1. This means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part two-stroke oil. Always use high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines.

• Gasoline: Use unleaded gasoline with a minimum octane rating of 89.
• Oil: Use a high-quality two-stroke oil that meets or exceeds the JASO FD or ISO-L-EGD standards.

Important Note: Never use straight gasoline in a two-stroke engine. This will cause severe damage.

I always mix my fuel in a separate container using a measuring cup to ensure the correct ratio. I also add a fuel stabilizer to prevent the gasoline from deteriorating, especially if I’m not going to be using the saw for an extended period.

Chain Oil

Proper chain lubrication is essential to prevent excessive wear on the bar and chain. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws.

• Viscosity: The oil should be viscous enough to cling to the chain but not so thick that it clogs the oiler.
• Additives: Look for oils that contain additives to reduce friction and prevent rust.

I check the chain oil level frequently and refill it as needed. I also adjust the oiler output to ensure that the chain is adequately lubricated. A properly lubricated chain will throw off a fine mist of oil when the saw is running.

Data Point: A study by Oregon Products found that using high-quality bar and chain oil can extend the life of the bar and chain by up to 30%.

Tip #4: Regular Maintenance – Preventing Problems Before They Start

Regular maintenance is crucial for keeping your MS 170 running smoothly and efficiently. Neglecting maintenance can lead to costly repairs and reduced performance.

Air Filter Cleaning

A dirty air filter restricts airflow to the engine, causing it to run rich (too much fuel) and lose power. Clean the air filter regularly, especially when working in dusty conditions.

• Frequency: Clean the air filter after every 5-10 hours of use, or more frequently if necessary.
• Procedure: Remove the air filter cover and carefully remove the filter. Clean the filter with warm soapy water or compressed air. Allow the filter to dry completely before reinstalling it.

Spark Plug Inspection

A worn or fouled spark plug can cause starting problems and reduced performance. Inspect the spark plug regularly and replace it as needed.

• Frequency: Inspect the spark plug after every 25 hours of use, or more frequently if you notice starting problems or reduced performance.
• Procedure: Remove the spark plug and inspect the electrode. If the electrode is worn, fouled with carbon, or cracked, replace the spark plug.

The correct spark plug gap for the MS 170 is typically 0.020 inches (0.5 mm). Use a spark plug gap tool to ensure the correct gap.

Bar and Chain Maintenance

• Bar Cleaning: Remove the bar and clean the groove with a screwdriver or a bar groove cleaner. This removes sawdust and debris that can cause the chain to bind.
• Bar Dressing: Use a bar dressing tool to remove any burrs or irregularities from the bar rails. This ensures that the chain runs smoothly and prevents premature wear.
• Chain Tension: Check the chain tension regularly. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. Too much tension can cause the chain to bind, while too little tension can cause the chain to derail.

Case Study: I once worked on a project where we were cutting firewood for a community center. One of the MS 170s we were using started to lose power and was difficult to start. After troubleshooting, we discovered that the air filter was completely clogged with sawdust and the spark plug was fouled. After cleaning the air filter and replacing the spark plug, the saw ran like new. This experience highlighted the importance of regular maintenance.

Tip #5: Wood Selection and Preparation – Matching the Tool to the Task

The MS 170 is designed for light-duty tasks, so it’s important to select wood that is appropriate for the saw’s capabilities.

Wood Types

• Softwoods: Pine, fir, spruce, and cedar are generally easier to cut than hardwoods.
• Hardwoods: Oak, maple, birch, and ash are denser and require more power to cut.

The MS 170 can handle softwoods relatively easily, but it may struggle with large-diameter hardwoods. If you’re cutting hardwoods, choose smaller logs and ensure that your chain is sharp.

Wood Moisture Content

The moisture content of wood affects its density and cutting characteristics. Green wood (freshly cut) is typically easier to cut than dry wood, but it’s also heavier. Dry wood is lighter but can be harder to cut.

• Green Wood: Moisture content above 30%.
• Air-Dried Wood: Moisture content between 12% and 20%.
• Kiln-Dried Wood: Moisture content below 10%.

For firewood, it’s best to season the wood (allow it to air-dry) before burning it. Seasoned firewood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.

Data Point: The ideal moisture content for firewood is between 15% and 20%. Wood with a moisture content above 20% will be difficult to light and will produce excessive smoke. Wood with a moisture content below 15% will burn too quickly.

Log Diameter

The MS 170 is best suited for logs with a diameter of 6 inches or less. Trying to cut larger logs will put excessive strain on the saw and reduce its lifespan.

Practical Example: I once tried to cut a 12-inch oak log with my MS 170. The saw struggled to make the cut, and the chain kept binding. I eventually gave up and used a larger chainsaw. This experience taught me the importance of matching the tool to the task.

Safety Considerations

No discussion of chainsaw operation is complete without emphasizing safety. Chainsaws are powerful tools that can cause serious injury if used improperly.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
• Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback, which can occur when the tip of the bar comes into contact with an object. Keep a firm grip on the saw and avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
• Working Conditions: Never operate a chainsaw when you are tired, under the influence of drugs or alcohol, or in poor lighting conditions.
• Bystanders: Keep bystanders at a safe distance from the work area.
• First Aid: Have a first aid kit readily available and know how to use it.

Safety Code: Always follow the manufacturer’s safety guidelines and any applicable local regulations.

Conclusion: Mastering the MS 170 for Efficient Wood Cutting

The MS 170 is a versatile and reliable chainsaw that can be a valuable tool for homeowners and small-scale firewood producers. By following these five expert tips, you can maximize its cutting efficiency, extend its lifespan, and ensure your safety. Remember, proper chain selection and sharpening, mastering cutting techniques, fuel and oil management, regular maintenance, and wood selection are all essential for optimal performance. With a little practice and attention to detail, you can become a proficient chainsaw operator and enjoy the satisfaction of efficiently processing wood for your needs.

Learn more