Logging Cuts Explained (7 Pro Tips From Industry Experts)

Logging Cuts Explained: 7 Pro Tips from Industry Experts

The world of logging and firewood preparation has been revolutionized in recent years. Remember the days of purely manual labor? Now, we have chainsaws with auto-tune carburetors, hydraulic log splitters controlled by joysticks, and even drones mapping out optimal felling paths. It’s a wild time to be working with wood. But even with all this tech, the fundamentals of logging cuts remain crucial. It’s not enough to just point and cut. Understanding the “why” behind each cut, and the physics involved, is what separates a safe, efficient logger from someone who’s just asking for trouble.

I’ve spent the last 20 years felling trees, milling lumber, and prepping firewood, both as a small-scale business owner and a dedicated hobbyist. I’ve seen firsthand the consequences of poor cutting techniques – from pinched bars and kickbacks to near-miss accidents. I’ve also witnessed the efficiency and artistry of seasoned loggers who can drop a tree precisely where they want it, every single time. It’s a skill that blends knowledge, experience, and a healthy dose of respect for the power of wood.

In this guide, I’ll share seven pro tips that I’ve learned over the years, focusing on the essential logging cuts and the underlying principles that make them effective. We’ll cover everything from basic felling techniques to advanced splitting methods, all while emphasizing safety and efficiency.

1. Mastering the Bore Cut: Your Key to Directional Felling

The bore cut, also known as the plunge cut, is a foundational technique in directional felling. It allows you to control the direction of the fall with precision and is far safer than simply cutting straight through the trunk.

What it is: The bore cut involves inserting the tip of the chainsaw bar into the tree trunk to create a pocket, allowing you to control the hinge and the direction of the fall.

Why it matters:

Directional control: By carefully positioning the bore cut, you can influence the direction the tree falls, avoiding obstacles and hazards.
Reduced risk of kickback: The bore cut minimizes the risk of kickback, a dangerous phenomenon where the chainsaw is thrown back towards the operator.
Improved safety: It is a safer method than cutting straight through the trunk, as it allows for greater control and reduces the likelihood of the tree splitting unexpectedly.

Step-by-step guide:

Assess the tree: Before making any cuts, carefully assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards (e.g., dead branches, power lines).
Make the face cut (undercut): Start by making a face cut, which is a wedge-shaped notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The face cut should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
Position for the bore cut: Stand to the side of the tree, away from the intended path of the fall. Ensure you have a clear escape route.
Engage the chain brake: Engage the chain brake for safety.
Start the bore cut: With the chainsaw running at full throttle, carefully insert the tip of the bar into the tree trunk, just behind the face cut. Use the lower part of the bar tip to minimize the risk of kickback.
Create the bore cut: Slowly pivot the chainsaw to create a horizontal pocket inside the tree, leaving a hinge of intact wood. The hinge should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
Make the back cut: Once the bore cut is complete, remove the chainsaw and make the back cut from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the bore cut. Leave a small amount of wood (the holding wood) to prevent the tree from falling prematurely.
Final cut: With the back cut almost complete, shout a warning (“Timber!”) and either push the tree over with a felling lever or allow it to fall naturally.

Tool specifications:

Chainsaw: A chainsaw with a bar length appropriate for the tree’s diameter. A 20-inch bar is suitable for most medium-sized trees.
Felling lever: A felling lever or wedge can be used to help push the tree over in the desired direction.

Wood type selection: The bore cut is effective on all types of wood, but extra caution is needed with hardwoods like oak and maple, which are more prone to splitting.

Measurements:

Face cut: 1/3 of the tree’s diameter
Hinge: 1/10 of the tree’s diameter
Holding wood: A small amount of wood to prevent premature falling

Case study:

I once had to fell a large oak tree that was leaning precariously towards a neighbor’s house. Using the bore cut, I was able to precisely control the direction of the fall, dropping the tree safely away from the house. The key was to carefully position the bore cut and leave a sufficient hinge to guide the fall.

Strategic advantages: The bore cut provides superior directional control, reduces the risk of kickback, and improves overall safety during felling.

Technical details:

Cost: The cost of the tools required for the bore cut (chainsaw, felling lever) can range from $500 to $1,500.
Material specs: Ensure the chainsaw chain is sharp and properly tensioned for optimal performance.
Timing estimates: The bore cut itself takes only a few minutes, but the entire felling process, including assessment and preparation, can take several hours.
Skill levels required: The bore cut requires intermediate chainsaw skills and a thorough understanding of felling principles.

2. The Importance of Hinge Wood: Steering the Fall

Hinge wood is the unsung hero of directional felling. It’s the small strip of uncut wood left between the bore cut and the back cut, and it’s absolutely crucial for controlling the direction of the fall.

What it is: The hinge is the remaining wood between the undercut and the back cut that controls the tree’s fall.

Why it matters:

Directional control: The hinge acts as a pivot point, guiding the tree’s fall in the desired direction.
Preventing barber-chairing: Barber-chairing is a dangerous situation where the tree splits vertically up the trunk. A properly sized hinge helps prevent this.
Safe and predictable falls: A well-executed hinge ensures a safe and predictable fall, minimizing the risk of accidents.

Step-by-step guide:

Determine hinge size: The size of the hinge depends on the tree’s diameter and species. As a general rule, the hinge should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter. For larger trees, you might increase the hinge size slightly.
Create the face cut: Make a precise face cut, ensuring that the two cuts meet cleanly at the apex of the wedge.
Execute the bore cut: Carefully execute the bore cut, leaving a consistent thickness of wood for the hinge.
Make the back cut: Make the back cut from the opposite side of the tree, aligning it with the bore cut. Leave the appropriate amount of wood for the hinge.
Monitor the hinge: As you make the back cut, constantly monitor the hinge to ensure it’s not splitting or cracking. If it is, stop cutting immediately and reassess the situation.

Tool specifications:

Chainsaw: A chainsaw with a sharp chain and appropriate bar length.
Measuring tape: A measuring tape can be used to accurately determine the tree’s diameter and calculate the hinge size.

Wood type selection: Hardwoods like oak and maple require larger hinges than softwoods like pine and fir, due to their greater density and tendency to split.

Measurements: Hinge size should be approximately 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.

Case study:

I was once felling a large maple tree that had a slight lean in the wrong direction. By carefully sizing the hinge and using a felling lever, I was able to overcome the lean and drop the tree exactly where I wanted it. The hinge acted as a pivot point, allowing me to steer the fall with precision.

Strategic advantages: A properly sized hinge provides superior directional control, prevents barber-chairing, and ensures safe and predictable falls.

Technical details:

Cost: The cost of the tools required for creating hinge wood is minimal, as it primarily relies on chainsaw skills and technique.
Material specs: Ensure the chainsaw chain is sharp and properly tensioned for optimal performance.
Timing estimates: Creating hinge wood adds only a few minutes to the overall felling process.
Skill levels required: Creating hinge wood requires intermediate chainsaw skills and a thorough understanding of felling principles.

3. The Open Face Notch: A Beginner-Friendly Felling Technique

The open face notch is a variation of the traditional face cut that’s particularly useful for beginners. It provides a wider opening for the tree to fall into, making it more forgiving and easier to control.

What it is: An open face notch is a type of undercut that creates a wider angle, typically 70-90 degrees, compared to the traditional 45-degree notch.

Why it matters:

Increased visibility: The wider opening provides increased visibility of the falling tree, allowing you to better anticipate its movement.
Reduced risk of pinching: The open face notch reduces the risk of the chainsaw bar getting pinched during the fall.
Easier to control: The wider opening makes it easier to control the direction of the fall, especially for beginners.

Step-by-step guide:

Assess the tree: As with any felling technique, start by assessing the tree for lean, wind direction, and potential hazards.
Make the top cut: Make the top cut of the open face notch at a 70-90 degree angle, aiming about 1/3 of the way into the tree’s diameter.
Make the bottom cut: Make the bottom cut, meeting the top cut at the apex of the wedge.
Execute the bore cut: Carefully execute the bore cut, leaving a hinge of intact wood.
Make the back cut: Make the back cut from the opposite side of the tree, aligning it with the bore cut.

Tool specifications:

Chainsaw: A chainsaw with a sharp chain and appropriate bar length.
Angle finder: An angle finder can be used to accurately create the 70-90 degree angle of the open face notch.

Wood type selection: The open face notch is effective on all types of wood, but it’s particularly useful for beginners working with hardwoods, which can be more challenging to fell.

Measurements: The open face notch should be cut at a 70-90 degree angle, with a depth of about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.

Case study:

I recently taught a beginner logger how to fell trees using the open face notch. He found it much easier to control the direction of the fall compared to the traditional face cut. The wider opening provided increased visibility and reduced the risk of pinching, giving him more confidence.

Strategic advantages: The open face notch provides increased visibility, reduces the risk of pinching, and is easier to control, making it a great option for beginners.

Technical details:

Cost: The cost of the tools required for the open face notch is minimal, as it primarily relies on chainsaw skills and technique.
Material specs: Ensure the chainsaw chain is sharp and properly tensioned for optimal performance.
Timing estimates: Creating an open face notch adds only a few minutes to the overall felling process.
Skill levels required: The open face notch is suitable for beginners with basic chainsaw skills.

4. Splitting Techniques: Mastering the Art of Firewood Prep

Splitting wood efficiently and safely is crucial for firewood preparation. There are several techniques you can use, depending on the size and type of wood, as well as your physical strength and equipment.

What it is: Splitting wood involves using an axe, maul, or log splitter to break logs into smaller pieces suitable for firewood.

Why it matters:

Efficient drying: Splitting wood increases its surface area, allowing it to dry more quickly and efficiently.
Easier handling: Split wood is easier to handle and stack than whole logs.
Improved burning: Split wood burns more cleanly and efficiently than whole logs.

Step-by-step guide:

Choose your tool: Select the appropriate tool for the job. An axe is suitable for smaller logs, while a maul is better for larger, tougher logs. A log splitter is the most efficient option for processing large quantities of wood.
Position the log: Place the log on a sturdy splitting block. Ensure the block is stable and won’t move during splitting.
Position yourself: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, and maintain a good grip on the axe or maul.
Swing and split: Swing the axe or maul with controlled force, aiming for the center of the log. If the log doesn’t split on the first swing, reposition the tool and try again.
Repeat as needed: Repeat the splitting process until the log is broken into the desired size pieces.

Tool specifications:

Axe: A splitting axe with a heavy head (6-8 lbs) is ideal for splitting smaller logs.
Maul: A splitting maul with a heavier head (8-12 lbs) is better for splitting larger, tougher logs.
Log splitter: A hydraulic log splitter can significantly increase efficiency, especially when processing large quantities of wood. Look for a model with a splitting force of at least 20 tons.

Wood type selection: Softwoods like pine and fir are generally easier to split than hardwoods like oak and maple. Knotty wood can be particularly challenging to split, regardless of species.

Measurements: Split firewood should be sized according to the dimensions of your fireplace or wood stove. A common size is 16 inches long and 4-6 inches in diameter.

Case study:

I used to split all my firewood by hand, using an axe and maul. It was a grueling process, especially when dealing with large, knotty oak logs. Eventually, I invested in a hydraulic log splitter, and it completely transformed my firewood preparation process. I was able to split wood much faster and with far less effort. The log splitter paid for itself in terms of time and energy saved.

Strategic advantages: Using a log splitter significantly increases efficiency and reduces physical strain, especially when processing large quantities of wood.

Technical details:

Cost: A splitting axe or maul can cost between $50 and $150, while a hydraulic log splitter can range from $1,000 to $3,000.
Material specs: Look for axes and mauls with forged steel heads and durable handles made of hickory or fiberglass.
Timing estimates: Splitting wood by hand can take several hours per cord, while a log splitter can process a cord of wood in an hour or less.
Skill levels required: Splitting wood by hand requires moderate physical strength and technique, while operating a log splitter requires basic mechanical skills and attention to safety.

5. The Wedge and Sledgehammer Method: When Muscle Meets Stubborn Wood

For those extra-tough logs that refuse to split with an axe or maul alone, the wedge and sledgehammer method is your best friend.

What it is: This method involves driving a steel wedge into a log using a sledgehammer to create a split.

Why it matters:

Splitting tough logs: It’s effective for splitting logs with knots or twisted grain that are difficult to split with an axe or maul.
Controlled splitting: It allows for more controlled splitting than simply swinging an axe, reducing the risk of injury.
Increased leverage: The wedge provides increased leverage, making it easier to split even the most stubborn logs.

Step-by-step guide:

Position the log: Place the log on a sturdy splitting block.
Position the wedge: Place the steel wedge on the log, aiming for a weak spot or a crack.
Strike the wedge: Using a sledgehammer, strike the wedge firmly and repeatedly until it drives into the log.
Repeat as needed: If the log doesn’t split on the first try, reposition the wedge and repeat the process. You may need to use multiple wedges for particularly tough logs.

Tool specifications:

Steel wedge: A steel wedge with a sharp edge is essential for this method.
Sledgehammer: A sledgehammer with a heavy head (8-12 lbs) is needed to drive the wedge into the log.

Wood type selection: The wedge and sledgehammer method is particularly useful for splitting hardwoods like oak and maple, as well as knotty or twisted logs of any species.

Measurements: The size of the wedge and sledgehammer should be appropriate for the size and toughness of the log.

Case study:

I once had a massive oak log that was so knotty and twisted that I couldn’t split it with an axe or maul. I tried everything, but it just wouldn’t budge. Finally, I resorted to the wedge and sledgehammer method. It took some time and effort, but eventually, I was able to split the log into manageable pieces.

Strategic advantages: The wedge and sledgehammer method is effective for splitting tough logs that are difficult to split with other methods.

Technical details:

Cost: A steel wedge can cost between $20 and $50, while a sledgehammer can range from $30 to $80.
Material specs: Look for steel wedges made of hardened steel and sledgehammers with durable handles made of hickory or fiberglass.
Timing estimates: Splitting a log with the wedge and sledgehammer method can take anywhere from a few minutes to an hour, depending on the size and toughness of the log.
Skill levels required: The wedge and sledgehammer method requires moderate physical strength and technique.

6. The “Pre-Split” Technique: Easing the Strain on Your Splitter

This technique is especially useful if you’re using a log splitter but dealing with particularly large or gnarly logs. It involves making a preliminary cut with a chainsaw before placing the log on the splitter.

What it is: Making a partial cut through a large log with a chainsaw before splitting it with a hydraulic splitter.

Why it matters:

Reduces strain on the splitter: Pre-splitting reduces the amount of force required by the log splitter, extending its lifespan and preventing damage.
Easier splitting: It makes the splitting process easier and faster, especially for large or knotty logs.
Safer operation: It reduces the risk of the log splitter getting stuck or kicking back, making the operation safer.

Step-by-step guide:

Assess the log: Examine the log for knots, cracks, or other weak spots.
Make the pre-split cut: Using a chainsaw, make a partial cut through the log along the grain, aiming for a weak spot. The cut should be deep enough to weaken the log but not so deep that it compromises its stability.
Position the log on the splitter: Place the pre-split log on the log splitter, aligning the cut with the splitting wedge.
Operate the splitter: Engage the log splitter and allow it to complete the split.

Tool specifications:

Chainsaw: A chainsaw with a sharp chain and appropriate bar length.
Log splitter: A hydraulic log splitter with a splitting force of at least 20 tons.

Wood type selection: The pre-split technique is particularly useful for splitting hardwoods like oak and maple, as well as knotty or twisted logs of any species.

Measurements: The depth of the pre-split cut should be about 1/3 to 1/2 of the log’s diameter.

Case study:

I was once trying to split a massive oak log with my log splitter, but it was so dense and knotty that the splitter was struggling. I decided to try the pre-split technique, and it made a huge difference. The pre-split cut weakened the log enough that the splitter was able to easily complete the split.

Strategic advantages: The pre-split technique reduces strain on the log splitter, makes splitting easier and faster, and improves safety.

Technical details:

Cost: The cost of the tools required for the pre-split technique is the same as for splitting wood with a chainsaw and log splitter.
Material specs: Ensure the chainsaw chain is sharp and properly tensioned for optimal performance.
Timing estimates: The pre-split technique adds only a few minutes to the overall splitting process.
Skill levels required: The pre-split technique requires basic chainsaw skills and experience operating a log splitter.

7. The “Rolling Cut”: A Last Resort for Downed Trees

The rolling cut is a more advanced (and potentially dangerous) technique used when dealing with trees that are already on the ground and under tension. It’s a last resort and should only be attempted by experienced loggers who understand the risks involved.

What it is: The rolling cut involves making a series of carefully placed cuts on a downed tree to relieve tension and allow it to be safely bucked into smaller pieces.

Why it matters:

Relieving tension: Downed trees can be under immense tension, which can cause them to spring back violently when cut. The rolling cut helps relieve this tension, preventing accidents.
Safe bucking: It allows you to safely buck the tree into smaller pieces for easier handling and transport.
Preventing pinching: It reduces the risk of the chainsaw bar getting pinched during the bucking process.

Step-by-step guide:

Assess the situation: Carefully assess the tree for tension, compression, and any potential hazards.
Make the compression cut: On the side of the tree that is under compression, make a shallow cut to relieve some of the pressure.
Make the tension cut: On the opposite side of the tree, which is under tension, make a deeper cut. As you make this cut, listen carefully for any signs of movement or cracking.
Repeat as needed: Repeat the compression and tension cuts as needed, gradually working your way through the tree.
Buck the tree: Once the tension is relieved, you can safely buck the tree into smaller pieces.

Tool specifications:

Chainsaw: A chainsaw with a sharp chain and appropriate bar length.
Wedges: Wedges can be used to prevent the tree from pinching the chainsaw bar during the bucking process.

Wood type selection: The rolling cut is applicable to all types of wood, but extra caution is needed with hardwoods, which can be more prone to splitting.

Measurements: The depth of the compression and tension cuts should be determined based on the size and tension of the tree.

Case study:

I once had to buck a large pine tree that had fallen across a road. The tree was under a lot of tension, and I knew that if I just started cutting into it, it could spring back and cause serious injury. I used the rolling cut technique to gradually relieve the tension, and I was able to safely buck the tree into manageable pieces.

Strategic advantages: The rolling cut is a crucial technique for safely bucking downed trees that are under tension.

Technical details:

Cost: The cost of the tools required for the rolling cut is minimal, as it primarily relies on chainsaw skills and technique.
Material specs: Ensure the chainsaw chain is sharp and properly tensioned for optimal performance.
Timing estimates: The rolling cut can add significant time to the bucking process, depending on the size and tension of the tree.
Skill levels required: The rolling cut requires advanced chainsaw skills and a thorough understanding of tree mechanics and tension. This technique should only be attempted by experienced loggers.

Remember, safety is paramount. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. Never work alone, and always have a clear escape route. Logging and firewood preparation can be rewarding activities, but they also carry inherent risks. By mastering these cutting techniques and following safety guidelines, you can minimize those risks and enjoy the fruits (or should I say, wood) of your labor.

Now, get out there and start processing that wood! But do it safely, and with a healthy respect for the power of the forest. The skills I’ve shared here are just the beginning. The more you practice, the more you’ll develop an intuition for how wood behaves, and the better you’ll become at handling it safely and efficiently. Good luck, and happy cutting!

Logging Cuts Explained (7 Pro Tips from Industry Experts)