Logger Show On Netflix: Inside Big Timber’s Wood Processing (5 Pro Tips)

As someone who’s spent decades in the woods, from felling towering trees to meticulously stacking firewood, I understand the wear-and-tear this life puts on both your body and your equipment. The Netflix show “Big Timber” offers a glimpse into the high-stakes world of logging, but it’s just the tip of the iceberg. The user intent behind searching for “Logger Show on Netflix: Inside Big Timber’s Wood Processing (5 Pro Tips)” is likely a desire to understand the practical aspects of wood processing, perhaps with an eye towards implementing some of those techniques in their own projects, whether it’s for firewood, woodworking, or even just a better appreciation of where our timber comes from. Let’s delve into five pro tips, going far beyond what you see on TV, and exploring the nitty-gritty details that make all the difference.

Pro Tip 1: Mastering the Felling Cut – More Than Just Chopping Down a Tree

Felling a tree is the foundation of all wood processing. It’s not just about brute force; it’s about precision, safety, and understanding the tree’s natural tendencies.

Understanding Tree Lean and Tension

Before you even start your chainsaw, assess the tree. Which way is it leaning? Are there any branches that might cause it to fall unexpectedly? Wind conditions also play a crucial role. A strong gust can easily change the tree’s trajectory. This is where experience counts. I remember one time, back in my early days, I misjudged the lean of a large oak. Luckily, I had a clear escape route, because when it fell, it went in a completely different direction than I anticipated. It was a close call, and a valuable lesson learned.

The Three Cuts: Notch, Hinge, and Back Cut

The Notch Cut (Undercut): This determines the direction of the fall. It’s a wedge-shaped cut, typically around 70 degrees, with the apex pointing in the desired felling direction. The depth should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter. Precision is key here. A poorly executed notch can cause the tree to barber chair (split upwards) during the fall, which is incredibly dangerous.
- Measurement: Aim for a notch depth of 1/4 the tree diameter for most situations.
- Tool: A well-sharpened chainsaw is essential. I prefer a saw with a 20-inch bar for most hardwoods.
The Hinge: This is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It controls the fall, acting as a pivot point. The hinge should be uniform in thickness and typically about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
- Measurement: Hinge thickness = 10% of tree diameter.
- Importance: A uniform hinge ensures a controlled, predictable fall.
The Back Cut: This is the final cut, made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the apex of the notch. Never cut completely through the tree. Leave the hinge intact. As the back cut progresses, the tree will start to lean in the direction of the notch. Once the back cut is almost complete, use felling wedges if necessary to encourage the tree to fall.
- Safety: Always have a clear escape route planned at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
- Tool: Felling wedges are crucial, especially for larger trees. I use both plastic and metal wedges, depending on the situation.

Dealing with Tension and Compression

Trees under tension or compression require special techniques. Tension wood is usually on the uphill side of a leaning tree, while compression wood is on the downhill side. Cutting into tension wood can cause the bar to get pinched, while cutting into compression wood can cause the tree to kick back.

Boring Cut: For trees with significant tension, I often use a boring cut. This involves plunging the tip of the chainsaw bar into the tree behind the intended back cut, creating a small cavity. This relieves some of the tension before making the final back cut.
Holding Wood: Leave “holding wood” – uncut sections of wood – on either side of the back cut to prevent the tree from twisting or kicking back unexpectedly.

Case Study: Felling a Leaning Oak

I once had to fell a large oak that was leaning heavily towards a neighbor’s property. The situation was complicated by the presence of overhead power lines.

Assessment: I carefully assessed the lean, the wind conditions, and the proximity of the power lines.
Notch Cut: I made a precise notch cut, aiming slightly away from the neighbor’s property.
Boring Cut: Due to the significant lean, I used a boring cut to relieve tension.
Back Cut: I carefully made the back cut, leaving ample holding wood.
Felling Wedges: I used multiple felling wedges to gradually encourage the tree to fall in the desired direction.
Controlled Fall: The tree fell exactly as planned, avoiding the power lines and the neighbor’s property.

This case highlights the importance of careful planning and execution when felling trees, especially in challenging situations.

Safety First: Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Never, ever, fell a tree without proper PPE. This includes:

Helmet: Essential for protecting your head from falling branches.
Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from sawdust and debris.
Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the chainsaw noise.
Chainsaw Chaps: These provide crucial protection for your legs in case of a chainsaw kickback.
Steel-Toed Boots: To protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.
Gloves: To improve grip and protect your hands.

Pro Tip 2: Debarking Logs – The Key to Faster Drying and Pest Control

Debarking logs is often overlooked, but it’s a crucial step in wood processing, particularly if you’re planning to use the wood for construction or woodworking.

Why Debark?

Faster Drying: Bark acts as a barrier, slowing down the drying process. Removing the bark allows the wood to dry more evenly and quickly, reducing the risk of cracking and warping.
Pest Control: Bark is a haven for insects, fungi, and other pests. Removing the bark eliminates their habitat and reduces the risk of infestation.
Aesthetics: Debarked logs look cleaner and more attractive, making them ideal for decorative purposes.
Reduced Rot: Bark holds moisture against the wood, promoting rot. Removing it helps prevent decay.

Debarking Tools and Techniques

Draw Knife: This is a traditional tool for debarking logs. It consists of a blade with two handles, which you pull towards you to shave off the bark. It’s effective for smaller logs and requires some skill to use properly. I’ve found that a sharp draw knife and a steady hand are essential for achieving a smooth, clean finish.
Spud: A spud is a long-handled tool with a curved blade used to peel bark from logs. It’s particularly effective for larger logs and requires less skill than a draw knife.
Debarking Machine: For large-scale operations, a debarking machine is the most efficient option. These machines use rotating blades or water jets to remove the bark quickly and effectively.
Chainsaw: A chainsaw can be used to debark logs, but it’s less efficient and more dangerous than other methods. Use extreme caution and wear appropriate PPE.

Timing is Everything

The best time to debark logs is in the spring or early summer when the sap is running. The bark is easier to remove at this time of year.

Case Study: Debarking Pine Logs for Cabin Construction

I once helped a friend build a log cabin. We harvested pine logs from his property and debarked them using a combination of draw knives and spuds.

Harvesting: We carefully selected and felled pine trees of the appropriate size and straightness.
Bucking: We bucked the logs into the desired lengths for the cabin walls.
Debarking: We used draw knives to debark the smaller logs and spuds to debark the larger ones.
Drying: We stacked the debarked logs in a well-ventilated area to allow them to dry.
Construction: After several months of drying, we used the logs to build the cabin walls.

The debarking process was time-consuming, but it was essential for ensuring the longevity and structural integrity of the cabin.

Environmental Considerations

Consider the environmental impact of debarking. Bark can be a valuable resource, used for mulch, compost, or even fuel. Avoid burning bark if possible, as it can release harmful pollutants into the air.

Pro Tip 3: The Art of Splitting Firewood – Efficiency and Safety

Splitting firewood is a physically demanding task, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be made more efficient and safer.

Understanding Wood Grain and Knots

The key to splitting firewood efficiently is to understand the wood grain and how it affects the splitting process. Straight-grained wood splits easily, while wood with knots or twisted grain can be much more difficult.

Splitting Tools: From Axes to Hydraulic Splitters

Axe: The classic tool for splitting firewood. A good splitting axe should have a heavy head and a wide, wedge-shaped blade. I prefer an axe with a fiberglass handle, as it’s more durable and absorbs shock better than a wooden handle.
Maul: A maul is a heavier version of an axe, designed for splitting larger, more difficult logs. It’s often used in conjunction with splitting wedges.
Splitting Wedges: These are metal wedges that are driven into the wood with a sledgehammer to split stubborn logs.
Hydraulic Log Splitter: For large-scale firewood production, a hydraulic log splitter is a must-have. These machines use hydraulic power to split logs quickly and effortlessly. They come in various sizes and configurations, from small electric models to large gas-powered units.
- Specifications: A 20-ton hydraulic splitter is sufficient for most firewood needs.
- Efficiency: A hydraulic splitter can split several cords of wood per day, significantly reducing the time and effort required compared to manual splitting.

Splitting Techniques

Aim for the Grain: Always aim to split the wood along the grain. This will make the splitting process much easier.
Avoid Knots: Knots are notoriously difficult to split. Try to split the wood around the knots, or use a splitting wedge to break them apart.
Use a Sturdy Chopping Block: A good chopping block should be made of a dense hardwood, such as oak or maple. It should be large enough to accommodate the largest logs you’ll be splitting.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep your feet and hands clear of the splitting area. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris.
Proper Posture: Use proper posture to avoid back injuries. Keep your back straight and bend your knees when lifting logs.

Case Study: Splitting Knotty Oak with a Hydraulic Splitter

I recently had to split a large pile of oak logs that were full of knots. Splitting them by hand would have been extremely difficult and time-consuming.

Hydraulic Splitter: I used a 27-ton hydraulic log splitter.
Positioning: I carefully positioned each log on the splitter, aiming for the areas with the fewest knots.
Splitting Wedges: For the most stubborn logs, I used splitting wedges to help break them apart.
Efficiency: The hydraulic splitter made the job much easier and faster. I was able to split the entire pile of logs in a fraction of the time it would have taken me to do it by hand.

This case demonstrates the advantages of using a hydraulic splitter for splitting knotty or difficult wood.

Safety Considerations

Wear Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from flying debris.
Wear Gloves: Improve grip and protect your hands.
Use a Sturdy Chopping Block: Prevent the axe from hitting the ground.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep your feet and hands clear of the splitting area.
Proper Posture: Avoid back injuries.
Read the Manual: Familiarize yourself with the operation and safety features of your log splitter.

Pro Tip 4: The Science of Seasoning Firewood – Achieving Optimal Moisture Content

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying it to reduce its moisture content. This is essential for efficient burning and reducing creosote buildup in your chimney.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood

Green Wood: Freshly cut wood contains a high amount of moisture, typically around 50-60%. It’s difficult to light, produces a lot of smoke, and burns inefficiently.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried for several months has a moisture content of around 20-25%. It’s easier to light, burns cleaner, and produces more heat.

Why Season Firewood?

Efficient Burning: Seasoned wood burns more efficiently, producing more heat and less smoke.
Reduced Creosote Buildup: Creosote is a flammable substance that can build up in your chimney, increasing the risk of a chimney fire. Burning seasoned wood reduces creosote buildup.
Easier to Light: Seasoned wood is much easier to light than green wood.
Less Smoke: Seasoned wood produces less smoke, making it more environmentally friendly.

Seasoning Methods

Air Drying: This is the most common method of seasoning firewood. It involves stacking the wood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally.
- Stacking Method: Stack the wood in rows, with gaps between the rows to allow for air circulation.
- Elevation: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil. I use pallets or scrap lumber for this.
- Sunlight: Expose the wood to sunlight to speed up the drying process.
- Covering: Cover the top of the stack to protect the wood from rain and snow.
Kiln Drying: This is a faster method of seasoning firewood, but it requires specialized equipment. Kiln drying involves placing the wood in a kiln and using heat and air circulation to remove the moisture.

Drying Times

The drying time for firewood depends on several factors, including the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Generally, it takes at least six months to season firewood properly. Hardwoods, such as oak and maple, take longer to season than softwoods, such as pine and fir.

Softwoods: 6-9 months
Hardwoods: 12-18 months

Measuring Moisture Content

You can use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of your firewood. These meters are relatively inexpensive and easy to use. Simply insert the probes into the wood and read the moisture content on the display.

Target Moisture Content: Aim for a moisture content of 20-25% for optimal burning.

Case Study: Seasoning Oak Firewood in a Humid Climate

I live in a humid climate, which makes it more challenging to season firewood. I’ve found that the following techniques are essential for success:

Stacking: I stack the wood in single rows, with ample space between the rows for air circulation.
Elevation: I elevate the wood well off the ground, using pallets and cinder blocks.
Sunlight: I expose the wood to as much sunlight as possible.
Covering: I cover the top of the stack with a tarp, but I leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.
Patience: I allow the wood to season for at least 18 months before burning it.

These techniques have helped me to successfully season oak firewood, even in a humid climate.

Strategic Advantages of Seasoning

Increased Efficiency: Seasoned firewood burns hotter and longer, reducing the amount of wood you need to use.
Reduced Emissions: Burning seasoned firewood produces less smoke and pollutants, making it more environmentally friendly.
Improved Safety: Burning seasoned firewood reduces the risk of chimney fires.

Pro Tip 5: Efficient Firewood Stacking – Maximizing Space and Airflow

How you stack your firewood is just as important as how you split and season it. Proper stacking maximizes space, promotes airflow, and keeps your wood dry.

Stacking Methods

Traditional Row Stacking: This is the most common method of stacking firewood. It involves stacking the wood in rows, with the ends of the logs facing outwards.
- Stability: Ensure the rows are stable by interlocking the ends of the logs.
- Height: Limit the height of the stack to prevent it from toppling over.
- Spacing: Leave gaps between the rows to allow for air circulation.
Round Stacking (Holz Hausen): This is a more aesthetically pleasing method of stacking firewood. It involves stacking the wood in a circular pattern, with a hollow center.
- Self-Supporting: The circular shape makes the stack self-supporting.
- Ventilation: The hollow center promotes excellent ventilation.
- Drying:* The round shape allows for even drying.
- Aesthetics: It’s visually appealing.
Crib Stacking: This method involves building a crib-like structure out of firewood, creating a stable and compact stack.
- Stability: The crib structure provides excellent stability.
- Compactness: It allows for efficient use of space.

Stacking Location

Sunlight: Choose a location that receives plenty of sunlight.
Ventilation: Ensure the location is well-ventilated.
Drainage: Avoid areas that are prone to flooding or water accumulation.
Accessibility: Choose a location that is easily accessible, especially during the winter months.
Proximity: Consider how far you’ll need to carry the wood to your house or wood-burning appliance.

Stacking Tips

Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack to protect the wood from rain and snow.
Stack Tightly: Stack the wood tightly to maximize space.
Maintain Stability: Ensure the stack is stable to prevent it from toppling over.
Organize by Size: Separate the wood by size to make it easier to load into your wood-burning appliance.

Case Study: Building a Holz Hausen in a Small Yard

I have a small yard, so I need to be efficient with my firewood stacking. I’ve found that building a Holz Hausen is the best way to maximize space and promote airflow.

Location: I chose a sunny, well-ventilated spot in my yard.
Base: I created a circular base using scrap lumber.
Stacking: I stacked the wood in a circular pattern, with a hollow center.
Stability: I ensured the stack was stable by interlocking the ends of the logs.
Covering: I covered the top of the stack with a tarp.

The Holz Hausen allows me to store a large amount of firewood in a small space, while also promoting excellent airflow and drying.

Strategic Advantages of Efficient Stacking

Maximize Space: Efficient stacking allows you to store more firewood in a given area.
Promote Airflow: Proper stacking promotes airflow, which helps to season the wood more quickly.
Keep Wood Dry: Covering the stack helps to keep the wood dry, preventing rot and decay.
Improve Aesthetics: A well-stacked pile of firewood can be aesthetically pleasing.

By mastering these five pro tips – mastering the felling cut, debarking logs, splitting firewood, seasoning firewood, and efficient firewood stacking – you can significantly improve your wood processing skills, whether you’re a hobbyist, a small contractor, or simply someone who wants to get the most out of their firewood. Remember to always prioritize safety and use the appropriate PPE. Wood processing can be challenging, but it’s also incredibly rewarding. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of warmth and satisfaction that comes from burning wood that you’ve harvested, processed, and seasoned yourself. The next step is to put these tips into practice. Start small, be patient, and learn from your mistakes. With time and experience, you’ll become a true master of wood processing.