Jonsered 2171 Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Hacks For Woodcutting)

Forget everything you think you know about chainsaw woodcutting – these Jonsered 2171 hacks will transform you from a weekend warrior into a wood-processing pro.

The Jonsered 2171. It’s a chainsaw that holds a special place in the hearts of many woodcutters, myself included. I remember the first time I laid hands on one – the raw power, the responsiveness, the sheer feel of quality. It was like upgrading from a bicycle to a motorcycle, and I knew right then that my woodcutting game was about to level up.

But owning a great saw is only half the battle. Knowing how to truly wield its potential, to coax every last ounce of performance out of it – that’s where the real magic happens. That’s why I’ve spent years honing my skills, experimenting with different techniques, and learning the ins and outs of this iconic machine. Now, I’m ready to share my hard-earned knowledge with you.

Understanding Your Jonsered 2171: A Foundation for Success

Before we dive into the hacks, let’s establish a solid foundation. The Jonsered 2171 is a powerful, professional-grade chainsaw known for its reliability and performance. However, like any tool, understanding its capabilities and limitations is crucial for safe and efficient operation.

A Brief Overview of the Jonsered 2171

The Jonsered 2171 is a 70cc class saw, meaning it boasts a powerful engine capable of handling a wide range of woodcutting tasks, from felling medium-sized trees to bucking firewood. Its features include:

Engine Displacement: 70.7 cc
Power Output: 3.6 kW (4.8 hp)
Weight (without bar and chain): Approximately 6.6 kg (14.5 lbs)
Recommended Bar Length: 13-20 inches

These specs translate to a saw that’s powerful enough for demanding jobs but still relatively lightweight and maneuverable.

Essential Maintenance: The Key to Longevity

No amount of fancy techniques can compensate for poor maintenance. A well-maintained Jonsered 2171 will not only perform better but also last longer, saving you money and frustration in the long run. Here are some crucial maintenance tasks:

Air Filter Cleaning: A clogged air filter restricts airflow to the engine, leading to reduced power and increased fuel consumption. Clean the air filter after every 5-10 hours of use, or more frequently in dusty conditions. I personally prefer using compressed air to blow out the debris, followed by a gentle wash with warm, soapy water if necessary. Make sure the filter is completely dry before reinstalling it.
Spark Plug Inspection: Inspect the spark plug regularly for signs of wear or fouling. A healthy spark plug should have a light brown color. If it’s black and sooty, it indicates a rich fuel mixture, while a white or gray color suggests a lean mixture. Replace the spark plug annually or as needed.
Chain Sharpening: A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. Sharpen your chain regularly using a file and guide, or take it to a professional. I’ll delve deeper into chain sharpening techniques in Hack #1.
Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris. Check the bar rails for wear and burrs, and dress them with a file if necessary. Flip the bar regularly to ensure even wear.
Fuel and Oil: Always use fresh, high-quality fuel with the correct oil mixture (usually 50:1 for the Jonsered 2171). Use a good quality bar and chain oil to keep the chain lubricated and prevent premature wear. I’ve found that synthetic bar and chain oils offer superior performance and protection, especially in cold weather.

Understanding Wood Anatomy and Properties

Effective woodcutting goes beyond just operating a chainsaw. Understanding the anatomy and properties of wood is crucial for making informed decisions, optimizing your cutting techniques, and ensuring safety.

Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods (e.g., oak, maple, ash) are generally denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods (e.g., pine, fir, spruce). This difference is due to their cellular structure. Hardwoods have smaller, more complex cells, while softwoods have larger, simpler cells.
Grain Direction: The direction of the wood grain significantly affects cutting ease and splitting characteristics. Cutting with the grain is generally easier than cutting against it. Understanding grain direction is also crucial for splitting firewood efficiently.
Moisture Content: The moisture content of wood dramatically impacts its weight, strength, and burning characteristics. Green wood (freshly cut) can have a moisture content of over 50%, while seasoned wood (dried) typically has a moisture content of 20% or less. Seasoning firewood reduces its weight, makes it easier to ignite, and increases its heat output. I’ll discuss firewood seasoning in more detail later.

Hack #1: Mastering the Art of Chain Sharpening

Bold statement: A sharp chain is not just a convenience; it’s a safety imperative and the single biggest factor in chainsaw performance.

I can’t stress this enough: a dull chain is a dangerous chain. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and operator fatigue. It also puts unnecessary strain on your saw, leading to premature wear and tear. Mastering the art of chain sharpening is the single most important skill you can develop as a chainsaw user.

Why Sharpening Matters

Safety: A sharp chain bites into the wood cleanly and efficiently, reducing the risk of kickback.
Efficiency: A sharp chain cuts faster and requires less effort, saving you time and energy.
Saw Longevity: A sharp chain reduces strain on the engine and bar, extending the life of your saw.
Quality of Cut: A sharp chain produces a cleaner, more precise cut, which is especially important for woodworking applications.

Sharpening Tools and Techniques

There are several methods for sharpening chainsaw chains, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Hand Filing: This is the most common and versatile method, allowing you to sharpen your chain in the field. You’ll need a round file of the correct size for your chain (typically 5/32″, 3/16″, or 7/32″), a file guide to maintain the correct sharpening angle, and a flat file for depth gauge adjustment.
Electric Chain Sharpener: This is a faster and more precise method, but it requires a power source and is less portable than hand filing. Electric sharpeners use a grinding wheel to sharpen the cutters.
Bar-Mounted Sharpener: This is a convenient option for sharpening your chain while it’s still on the bar. These sharpeners use a small grinding wheel powered by the chainsaw engine.

My preferred method is hand filing. It’s portable, inexpensive, and allows me to fine-tune the sharpness of each cutter. Here’s my step-by-step process:

Secure the Saw: Clamp the bar in a vise or use a stump vise to hold the saw securely.
Identify the Correct File Size: Consult your chainsaw manual or the chain packaging to determine the correct file size for your chain.
Set the File Guide: Place the file guide on the chain, aligning it with the cutter you’re sharpening. The file guide will help you maintain the correct sharpening angle (typically 25-35 degrees).
File the Cutter: Using smooth, even strokes, file the cutter from the inside out. Maintain consistent pressure and angle throughout the stroke. Count the number of strokes you use on each cutter so you can sharpen them evenly.
Check for Burrs: After filing, check the cutter for burrs. Remove any burrs with a fine file or honing stone.
Repeat for All Cutters: Repeat steps 3-5 for all the cutters on the chain, alternating between left and right cutters.
Adjust Depth Gauges: After sharpening, check the depth gauges (the small rakers in front of each cutter). If the depth gauges are too high, they will prevent the cutters from biting into the wood. Use a flat file and a depth gauge tool to file the depth gauges to the correct height. Consult your chainsaw manual for the recommended depth gauge setting.
Test the Chain: After sharpening, test the chain by making a few cuts in a piece of wood. A properly sharpened chain should produce long, thin shavings.

Data Point: Studies have shown that a properly sharpened chain can increase cutting speed by up to 50% compared to a dull chain. This translates to significant time and energy savings, especially on large woodcutting projects.

Personal Story: I once spent an entire day struggling to fell a large oak tree with a dull chain. I was exhausted, frustrated, and making very little progress. Finally, I decided to take a break and sharpen my chain. The difference was night and day. The sharpened chain bit into the wood effortlessly, and I was able to fell the tree in a fraction of the time. That experience taught me the importance of keeping my chain sharp and the value of taking the time to do it right.

Common Sharpening Mistakes to Avoid

Using the Wrong File Size: Using the wrong file size can damage the cutters and reduce the chain’s performance.
Filing at the Wrong Angle: Filing at the wrong angle can create an uneven or ineffective cutting edge.
Not Maintaining Consistent Pressure: Not maintaining consistent pressure can result in an unevenly sharpened chain.
Ignoring Depth Gauges: Ignoring depth gauges can prevent the cutters from biting into the wood.

When to Replace Your Chain

Even with regular sharpening, chainsaw chains eventually wear out and need to be replaced. Here are some signs that it’s time for a new chain:

Broken or Missing Cutters: If you have several broken or missing cutters, the chain is no longer safe or effective.
Excessive Wear: If the cutters are worn down to the point where they can no longer be sharpened effectively, it’s time for a new chain.
Stretched Chain: If the chain is excessively stretched, it will not fit properly on the bar and can cause damage to the sprocket and bar.

Hack #2: Mastering Felling Cuts and Techniques

Bold statement: Felling a tree safely and efficiently is a combination of knowledge, skill, and respect for the power of nature.

Felling a tree is one of the most challenging and potentially dangerous tasks in woodcutting. It requires careful planning, precise cutting techniques, and a healthy dose of respect for the forces involved.

Assessing the Tree and Surroundings

Before you even start your saw, take the time to carefully assess the tree and its surroundings.

Tree Lean: Determine the direction of the tree’s natural lean. This is the direction the tree is most likely to fall.
Wind: Consider the wind direction and strength. Wind can significantly affect the tree’s fall, so it’s important to be aware of its influence.
Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the tree’s path, such as other trees, power lines, or buildings.
Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the anticipated direction of fall.

Felling Cuts: The Anatomy of a Safe Fall

The key to a safe and controlled tree fall is to use the correct felling cuts. The basic felling cuts are the notch cut and the back cut.

Notch Cut: The notch cut is a wedge-shaped cut that directs the tree’s fall. It consists of two cuts: a horizontal cut and an angled cut that meet at the bottom. The angle of the notch should be approximately 45 degrees. The depth of the notch should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
Back Cut: The back cut is a horizontal cut made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. The back cut should be made slightly higher than the bottom of the notch cut, leaving a hinge of uncut wood. The hinge controls the direction of the fall and prevents the tree from kicking back.

Data Point: Studies have shown that using the correct felling cuts can reduce the risk of tree felling accidents by up to 70%.

Advanced Felling Techniques

In addition to the basic felling cuts, there are several advanced techniques that can be used to fell trees in difficult situations.

Hinge Modification: The size and shape of the hinge can be modified to control the direction and speed of the fall. A thicker hinge will slow the fall, while a thinner hinge will allow the tree to fall more quickly.
Holding Wood: Holding wood is uncut wood left on the sides of the back cut. Holding wood can be used to prevent the tree from twisting or splitting during the fall.
Wedging: Wedges can be used to help push the tree over in the desired direction. Wedges are especially useful when felling trees that are leaning in the wrong direction.
Pulling: Pulling lines can be attached to the tree to help pull it over in the desired direction. Pulling is typically used in conjunction with wedges.

Personal Story: I once had to fell a large pine tree that was leaning precariously towards a neighbor’s house. The tree was also heavily branched, making it difficult to control its fall. After carefully assessing the situation, I decided to use a combination of wedging and pulling to fell the tree safely. I placed several wedges in the back cut and attached a pulling line to the top of the tree. With the help of a friend, I slowly pulled the tree over in the desired direction while simultaneously driving the wedges deeper into the back cut. The tree fell exactly where I wanted it to, avoiding any damage to the neighbor’s house.

Safety Considerations

Felling trees is a dangerous activity, and it’s important to take all necessary safety precautions.

Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
Work with a Partner: It’s always safer to work with a partner when felling trees. Your partner can help you assess the situation, clear obstacles, and provide assistance in case of an emergency.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Pay attention to your surroundings and be aware of any potential hazards, such as other trees, power lines, or people.
Never Fell Trees in High Winds: High winds can make it impossible to control the fall of the tree.
Know Your Limits: Don’t attempt to fell trees that are too large or too difficult for your skill level.

Hack #3: Optimizing Bucking Techniques for Efficiency

Bold statement: Bucking firewood efficiently is not just about speed; it’s about minimizing waste, maximizing yield, and preserving your body.

Bucking is the process of cutting felled trees into smaller, manageable lengths for firewood or other purposes. While it may seem straightforward, optimizing your bucking techniques can significantly improve your efficiency, reduce fatigue, and minimize waste.

Choosing the Right Bucking Method

There are several different bucking methods, each suited for different situations.

Bucking on the Ground: This is the simplest method, but it can be hard on your back and can result in the chain hitting the ground.
Bucking on a Sawbuck: A sawbuck is a simple wooden frame that supports the log while you buck it. This method is easier on your back and reduces the risk of hitting the ground with the chain.
Bucking with a Log Lifter: A log lifter is a tool that lifts the log off the ground, making it easier to buck. This method is especially useful for large logs.

My preferred method is using a sawbuck. It’s a good compromise between simplicity, ergonomics, and safety. I built my own sawbuck from scrap lumber, and it’s been a game-changer for my firewood processing.

Bucking Techniques for Different Log Diameters

The bucking technique you use will depend on the diameter of the log.

Small Logs (Less than 6 inches in diameter): These logs can be bucked in a single cut.
Medium Logs (6-12 inches in diameter): These logs can be bucked with a single cut, but it’s important to support the log to prevent it from pinching the chain. You can use a wedge or another log to support the log.
Large Logs (Over 12 inches in diameter): These logs require multiple cuts. The most common technique is to make a series of partial cuts from the top and bottom of the log, alternating between the two sides. This prevents the log from pinching the chain and reduces the risk of kickback.

The Importance of Bore Cutting

Bore cutting is a technique that involves plunging the tip of the chainsaw bar into the wood to create a hole. This technique is useful for relieving tension in the log and preventing it from splitting or pinching the chain.

How to Bore Cut: Start by positioning the tip of the bar against the log. Engage the chain brake and rev the engine to full throttle. Slowly plunge the tip of the bar into the wood, using the bumper spikes to maintain control. Once the bar is fully inserted, you can use it to make cuts in any direction.

Caution: Bore cutting can be dangerous if not done properly. Always use caution and be aware of the potential for kickback.

Minimizing Waste and Maximizing Yield

One of the goals of efficient bucking is to minimize waste and maximize yield. This means cutting the logs into lengths that are appropriate for your needs and avoiding unnecessary cuts.

Measure Twice, Cut Once: Take the time to measure the logs carefully before you start cutting. This will help you avoid making mistakes and wasting wood.
Cut to Length: Cut the logs to the desired length, taking into account the size of your firewood stove or fireplace.
Use the Smallest Possible Kerf: The kerf is the width of the cut made by the chainsaw chain. Using a chain with a smaller kerf will reduce the amount of wood that is turned into sawdust.

Data Point: By optimizing your bucking techniques, you can reduce wood waste by up to 10%. This translates to more firewood and less time spent processing logs.

Ergonomics and Body Mechanics

Bucking firewood can be physically demanding, so it’s important to use proper ergonomics and body mechanics to avoid injury.

Maintain Good Posture: Keep your back straight and avoid bending at the waist.
Use Your Legs: Use your legs to lift and move logs, rather than your back.
Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to rest and stretch.
Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated.

Personal Story: I used to suffer from chronic back pain from bucking firewood. I was using poor posture and lifting heavy logs with my back. After learning about proper ergonomics and body mechanics, I made some changes to my technique. I started using a sawbuck, maintaining good posture, and using my legs to lift logs. The result was a dramatic reduction in my back pain.

Hack #4: Splitting Firewood: Manual vs. Hydraulic

Bold statement: Choosing the right firewood splitting method is a balance of physical exertion, efficiency, and the types of wood you’re processing.

Splitting firewood is a necessary step in preparing it for burning. There are two main methods of splitting firewood: manual splitting with an axe or maul, and hydraulic splitting with a log splitter. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Manual Splitting: The Traditional Approach

Manual splitting involves using an axe or maul to split the wood by hand. This method is simple, inexpensive, and requires no external power source.

Tools for Manual Splitting:
- Axe: An axe is a lighter tool with a sharper blade, designed for chopping and splitting smaller pieces of wood.
- Maul: A maul is a heavier tool with a blunt wedge-shaped head, designed for splitting larger, tougher pieces of wood.
- Wedges: Wedges can be used to split particularly difficult pieces of wood.
- Sledgehammer: A sledgehammer can be used to drive wedges into the wood.
Techniques for Manual Splitting:
- Choose a Safe Splitting Area: Select a flat, stable area free of obstacles.
- Use a Sturdy Splitting Block: Use a large, stable splitting block to support the wood.
- Position Yourself Properly: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and your knees slightly bent.
- Swing with Your Whole Body: Use your whole body to generate power, not just your arms.
- Aim for the Center of the Wood: Aim for the center of the wood, or for any existing cracks or splits.

Advantages of Manual Splitting:

Inexpensive: The initial investment is low.
Portable: No need for a power source.
Quiet: No noisy engine to disturb the peace.
Good Exercise: A great workout for your whole body.

Disadvantages of Manual Splitting:

Physically Demanding: Can be tiring and strenuous, especially for large amounts of wood.
Time-Consuming: Slower than hydraulic splitting.
Risk of Injury: Risk of cuts, strains, and other injuries.

Hydraulic Splitting: The Power of Automation

Hydraulic splitting involves using a log splitter to split the wood with hydraulic power. This method is faster and easier than manual splitting, but it requires a log splitter and a power source.

Types of Log Splitters:
- Electric Log Splitters: Powered by an electric motor. Suitable for smaller jobs and indoor use.
- Gas-Powered Log Splitters: Powered by a gasoline engine. More powerful and portable than electric log splitters.
- Tractor-Mounted Log Splitters: Mounted on a tractor and powered by the tractor’s hydraulic system. Suitable for large-scale firewood production.
Operating a Log Splitter:
- Place the Log on the Beam: Place the log securely on the beam of the log splitter.
- Engage the Hydraulic Cylinder: Engage the hydraulic cylinder to push the log against the splitting wedge.
- Split the Wood: The hydraulic force will split the wood into two or more pieces.
- Remove the Split Wood: Remove the split wood from the log splitter.

Advantages of Hydraulic Splitting:

Faster: Much faster than manual splitting.
Less Physically Demanding: Requires less physical effort.
Suitable for Large Logs: Can split larger logs that are difficult to split manually.

Disadvantages of Hydraulic Splitting:

Expensive: The initial investment is high.
Requires a Power Source: Needs electricity or gasoline to operate.
Noisy: Can be noisy, especially gas-powered models.
Less Exercise: Doesn’t provide the same level of physical exercise as manual splitting.

Choosing the Right Method for You

The best method for splitting firewood depends on your individual needs and circumstances.

Consider the Amount of Wood: If you only need to split a small amount of wood, manual splitting may be the best option. If you need to split a large amount of wood, a hydraulic log splitter may be a better choice.
Consider Your Physical Condition: If you are not in good physical condition, a hydraulic log splitter may be a better option.
Consider Your Budget: Manual splitting is less expensive than hydraulic splitting.
Consider Your Space: Log splitters require storage space.

Data Point: A hydraulic log splitter can split up to 10 times more wood per hour than manual splitting. This can save you significant time and energy, especially on large firewood projects.

Personal Story: I used to split all of my firewood manually with an axe. It was a great workout, but it was also time-consuming and hard on my body. After a few years, I decided to invest in a hydraulic log splitter. The difference was amazing. I was able to split the same amount of wood in a fraction of the time, and I no longer suffered from back pain.

Safety Considerations for Splitting Firewood

Regardless of which method you choose, it’s important to take safety precautions when splitting firewood.

Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear eye protection, gloves, and sturdy footwear.
Use a Safe Splitting Area: Select a flat, stable area free of obstacles.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Pay attention to your surroundings and be aware of any potential hazards.
Never Split Wood When Tired or Distracted: Fatigue and distraction can increase the risk of injury.
Follow the Manufacturer’s Instructions: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for operating your log splitter.

Hack #5: Firewood Seasoning: The Science of Perfect Burning

Bold statement: Seasoning firewood properly is not just about drying it out; it’s about transforming it into a fuel that burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently.

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying it to reduce its moisture content. Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently than green wood. It also produces less smoke and creosote, reducing the risk of chimney fires.

Why Seasoning Matters

Increased Heat Output: Seasoned firewood has a lower moisture content, which means that more of its energy is released as heat when it burns. Green wood, on the other hand, must first expend energy to evaporate the water it contains, reducing its heat output.
Cleaner Burning: Seasoned firewood burns cleaner, producing less smoke and creosote. Creosote is a flammable substance that can build up in your chimney and cause a fire.
Easier to Ignite: Seasoned firewood is easier to ignite than green wood.
Reduced Risk of Chimney Fires: Seasoned firewood produces less creosote, reducing the risk of chimney fires.
Less Weight: Seasoned firewood is lighter than green wood, making it easier to handle and transport.

The Science of Wood Drying

The process of seasoning firewood involves the evaporation of water from the wood cells. This process is influenced by several factors, including:

Wood Species: Different wood species dry at different rates. Softwoods generally dry faster than hardwoods.
Moisture Content: Green wood can have a moisture content of over 50%, while seasoned wood typically has a moisture content of 20% or less.
Climate: Warm, dry climates are ideal for seasoning firewood.
Air Circulation: Good air circulation is essential for promoting evaporation.
Stacking Method: The way you stack your firewood can significantly affect its drying rate.

Data Point: Seasoning firewood can reduce its moisture content by up to 30% in just six months. This can significantly improve its burning characteristics.

Seasoning Techniques

There are several different techniques for seasoning firewood.

Air Drying: This is the most common and cost-effective method. It involves stacking the firewood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally.
Kiln Drying: This is a faster method that involves drying the firewood in a kiln. Kiln-dried firewood is typically more expensive than air-dried firewood.
Solar Drying: This method involves using a solar kiln to dry the firewood. Solar drying is a more energy-efficient alternative to kiln drying.

My preferred method is air drying. It’s simple, inexpensive, and effective. Here’s my process:

Split the Wood: Split the firewood into manageable sizes. This will increase the surface area and promote faster drying.
Stack the Wood: Stack the firewood in a single row, leaving gaps between the rows for air circulation.
Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground using pallets or other materials. This will prevent moisture from wicking up from the ground.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the wood pile with a tarp or other waterproof material. This will protect the wood from rain and snow.
Allow for Air Circulation: Ensure that there is good air circulation around the wood pile.
Wait Patiently: Allow the wood to season for at least six months, or preferably a year.

Determining Seasoning Time

The amount of time it takes to season firewood depends on several factors, including the wood species, climate, and stacking method.

Hardwoods: Hardwoods typically take longer to season than softwoods.
Climate: Warm, dry climates are ideal for seasoning firewood.
Stacking Method: Proper stacking can significantly reduce seasoning time.

Rule of Thumb: As a general rule, hardwoods should be seasoned for at least one year, while softwoods can be seasoned for six months.

How to Tell if Firewood is Seasoned

There are several ways to tell if firewood is seasoned.

Check the Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of the wood. Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.
Look for Cracks: Seasoned firewood will typically have cracks on the ends.
Listen for a Hollow Sound: When you strike two pieces of seasoned firewood together, they will make a hollow sound.
Check the Weight: Seasoned firewood will be lighter than green wood.

Personal Story: I once burned a load of unseasoned firewood in my wood stove. The fire was difficult to start, produced a lot of smoke, and didn’t generate much heat. I also noticed a significant buildup of creosote in my chimney. After that experience, I learned the importance of seasoning firewood properly.

Storage Considerations

Once your firewood is seasoned, it’s important to store it properly to prevent it from reabsorbing moisture.

Store in a Dry Place: Store the firewood in a dry, well-ventilated place, such as a woodshed or garage.
Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the ground.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the wood pile with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect it from rain and snow.

By following these tips, you can ensure that your firewood is properly seasoned and stored, providing you with years of warm, efficient, and safe fires.

These five hacks, combined with a dedication to safety and continuous learning, will elevate your woodcutting skills and allow you to fully harness the power and potential of your Jonsered 2171. Remember, woodcutting is a craft that requires patience, practice, and a deep respect for the materials and tools involved. So, get out there, put these hacks into practice, and enjoy the satisfaction of transforming raw wood into a valuable resource.