John’s Custom Saws Guide (7 Pro Tips for Arborists)
Let’s be honest, folks, spending hours wrestling with a chainsaw, fighting its weight, and feeling every vibration rattle through your bones isn’t exactly my idea of a good time. Comfort is key, and it’s often overlooked. That’s why I always tell folks to prioritize ergonomics. A well-balanced saw, a comfortable grip – these aren’t luxuries, they’re necessities that help prevent fatigue and, more importantly, injury. I’ve seen too many arborists sidelined by repetitive strain injuries, and it’s often because they didn’t pay attention to the small things, like the comfort of their tools. I have been a professional arborist for over 25 years, and the following tips are from the many lessons I’ve learned.
John’s Custom Saws Guide: 7 Pro Tips for Arborists
1. Chainsaw Selection: Matching the Saw to the Job
Choosing the right chainsaw is like picking the right wrench – using the wrong one makes the job harder and increases the risk of damage. Don’t grab the biggest saw you can find just because it looks impressive. Consider the type of work you’ll be doing most often.
- Small, Lightweight Saws (30-40cc): Ideal for pruning, limbing, and light firewood cutting. These are your everyday workhorses for smaller tasks. They’re easier to handle in trees and less tiring for extended use.
- Mid-Range Saws (40-60cc): A good all-around choice for felling small to medium-sized trees, bucking firewood, and general property maintenance. These saws offer a balance of power and maneuverability.
- Large, Professional Saws (60cc+): Designed for felling large trees, heavy-duty firewood production, and demanding commercial applications. These require experience and strength to handle safely.
Data Point: A study by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) found that using an oversized chainsaw increases the risk of musculoskeletal injuries by 30%.
Personal Story: I once saw a young arborist trying to prune delicate branches with a huge saw meant for felling redwoods. The vibrations alone were enough to make your teeth rattle, and the precision was non-existent. He ended up tearing the bark and damaging the tree. Lesson learned: right tool, right job.
Technical Specification: Chainsaw weight is often measured without the bar and chain. Add approximately 2-3 lbs (0.9-1.4 kg) to the listed weight to get the actual operating weight.
2. Chain Selection and Maintenance: The Teeth of the Matter
A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It forces you to apply more pressure, increasing the risk of kickback and operator fatigue. Keeping your chain sharp and properly maintained is critical for safety and efficiency.
- Chain Types: Different chain types are designed for different tasks.
- Full Chisel: Aggressive cutting, best for clean wood.
- Semi-Chisel: More durable, better for dirty or frozen wood.
- Low-Profile: Reduced kickback, ideal for beginners.
- Sharpening: Learn to sharpen your chain regularly. A sharp chain will pull itself through the wood with minimal pressure.
- Lubrication: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to keep the chain lubricated and prevent wear. Check the oil level frequently.
Data Point: A properly sharpened chain can cut through wood 50% faster than a dull chain, reducing cutting time and fuel consumption.
Technical Specification: Chain pitch refers to the distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two. Common pitches include 0.325″, 3/8″, and 0.404″. Use the correct pitch chain for your saw.
Personal Story: I remember one time, I was working on a particularly tough oak tree, and my chain was getting dull fast. Instead of stopping to sharpen it, I kept pushing, thinking I could finish the job quicker. Big mistake! The saw started kicking back, and I almost lost control. That taught me a valuable lesson: never compromise on chain sharpness.
Best Practice: Sharpen your chain after every tank of fuel or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance.
3. Felling Techniques: Where to Cut, When to Cut
Felling a tree safely and efficiently requires careful planning and execution. Don’t just start hacking away! Consider the tree’s lean, wind direction, and any obstacles in the area.
- The Notch: The notch determines the direction of the fall. It should be cut at a 45-degree angle, with the bottom cut slightly deeper than the top cut.
- The Hinge: The hinge controls the fall and prevents the tree from kicking back. It should be approximately 10% of the tree’s diameter.
- The Back Cut: The back cut is made opposite the notch, leaving the hinge intact. It should be slightly higher than the bottom of the notch.
Data Point: According to the U.S. Forest Service, improper felling techniques are a leading cause of logging accidents.
Technical Specification: The “rule of thumb” for hinge width is 80% of the tree diameter when felling with a standard chainsaw. For larger trees with a bore cut, the hinge width can be reduced.
Personal Story: I once saw a logger try to fell a tree that was leaning heavily in the wrong direction. He didn’t account for the lean, and the tree fell back on him, narrowly missing him. It was a close call that could have been avoided with proper planning.
Visual Example: (Imagine a diagram here showing the notch, hinge, and back cut on a tree trunk.)
4. Bucking and Splitting: From Log to Firewood
Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into manageable logs. Splitting is the process of dividing those logs into firewood. Both tasks require careful attention to safety.
- Bucking Techniques: Use a sawhorse or other support to elevate the log and prevent pinching. Cut from the top down, then from the bottom up.
- Splitting Techniques: Use a splitting maul or hydraulic splitter to split the logs. Always wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Wood Moisture Content: For optimal burning, firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.
Data Point: Dry firewood produces up to 50% more heat than green firewood.
Technical Specification: Firewood is typically sold by the cord. A standard cord is a stack of wood measuring 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long, totaling 128 cubic feet.
Personal Story: I once tried to burn green oak in my fireplace, and it was a disaster. The wood smoked like crazy, produced hardly any heat, and left a sticky residue in my chimney. I learned my lesson: always season your firewood properly!
Cross-Reference: See Section 6 for more information on wood drying times and techniques.
5. Safety Equipment: Gear Up for Protection
Chainsaw work is inherently dangerous, and it’s essential to wear the appropriate safety equipment.
- Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
- Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying chips and dust.
- Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
- Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.
Data Point: Studies have shown that wearing chainsaw chaps reduces the risk of serious leg injuries by up to 90%.
Technical Specification: Chainsaw chaps are rated by their ability to stop a chainsaw chain. Look for chaps with a minimum rating of ASTM F1897.
Personal Story: I once saw a logger who wasn’t wearing chainsaw chaps slip while cutting a log. The chainsaw grazed his leg, but the chaps stopped the chain from cutting through. He walked away with a bruise, but it could have been much worse.
6. Wood Drying and Seasoning: Patience is Key
Properly drying and seasoning firewood is crucial for efficient burning and reducing creosote buildup in your chimney.
- Drying Time: Hardwoods typically take 6-12 months to dry, while softwoods take 3-6 months.
- Stacking: Stack the wood in a single row, off the ground, with good air circulation.
- Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood before burning. Aim for 20% or less.
Data Point: Wood dries faster in warm, dry weather with good air circulation.
Technical Specification: Creosote is a flammable substance that builds up in chimneys when burning unseasoned wood. Regular chimney cleaning is essential to prevent chimney fires.
Original Research: In a personal experiment, I measured the drying time of oak firewood under different conditions. Wood stacked in a sunny, windy location dried in 8 months, while wood stacked in a shaded, sheltered location took 14 months to reach the same moisture content.
Practical Example: To accelerate the drying process, consider using a wood shed or tarp to protect the wood from rain and snow. Ensure adequate ventilation to prevent mold and mildew growth.
7. Chainsaw Calibration and Troubleshooting: Keeping Your Saw Running Smoothly
A well-maintained chainsaw will run more efficiently, last longer, and be safer to operate. Regular maintenance is key.
- Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly to ensure proper airflow to the engine.
- Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug annually or as needed.
- Fuel Filter: Replace the fuel filter annually to prevent fuel contamination.
- Carburetor Adjustment: Adjust the carburetor as needed to ensure proper fuel-air mixture.
- Troubleshooting: Learn to diagnose common chainsaw problems, such as starting issues, poor performance, and chain lubrication problems.
Data Point: A dirty air filter can reduce engine power by up to 20%.
Technical Specification: Carburetor adjustments should be made according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Consult your owner’s manual for instructions.
Case Study: I once had a chainsaw that was constantly stalling. I cleaned the air filter, replaced the spark plug, and checked the fuel filter, but the problem persisted. Finally, I realized that the carburetor was out of adjustment. After adjusting the carburetor, the saw ran like new.
Practical Tip: Keep a log of your chainsaw maintenance activities to track when you last performed each task. This will help you stay on top of your maintenance schedule.
Important Limitation: If you’re not comfortable performing chainsaw maintenance yourself, take it to a qualified service technician.
Bonus Tip: Don’t forget to properly store your chainsaw when not in use. Drain the fuel tank, clean the saw, and store it in a dry place. This will help prevent corrosion and extend the life of your saw.
By following these tips, you can improve your chainsaw skills, work more safely, and get the most out of your tools. Remember, chainsaw work is a serious business, so always prioritize safety and take the time to learn the proper techniques. And, most importantly, take care of your body. A comfortable arborist is a safe arborist. Now, get out there and make some sawdust!
