J3816 John Deere Chainsaw Deal (Pro Tips for Firewood Prep)

Investing in Warmth: Mastering Firewood Prep with the John Deere J3816 Chainsaw

Firewood. It’s more than just fuel; it’s an investment in comfort, security, and self-sufficiency. The crackling fire on a cold night, the satisfaction of a winter’s woodpile stacked high – these are rewards earned through hard work and knowledge. That’s where the John Deere J3816 chainsaw comes in. I’m going to walk you through not just why I think it’s a solid choice, but also how to maximize its potential for efficient and safe firewood production.

My journey with wood processing started years ago, helping my grandfather on his small farm. I remember struggling with a dull axe and a heavy, unreliable chainsaw. It was back-breaking work, and frankly, a bit dangerous. These early experiences instilled in me a deep respect for the craft and a relentless pursuit of better techniques and tools. Now, years later, I’ve learned a thing or two about what works and what doesn’t.

This guide is designed to equip you, whether you’re a seasoned woodcutter or just starting out, with the knowledge and pro tips to make firewood preparation safer, more efficient, and even enjoyable. We’ll delve into the specifics of the John Deere J3816, explore crucial aspects of wood selection and processing, and highlight safety measures that should never be compromised.

Understanding the John Deere J3816 Chainsaw

The John Deere J3816 is a workhorse designed for both homeowners and professionals tackling demanding cutting tasks. Let’s break down the key specifications that make it a contender for firewood preparation.

J3816 Specifications

  • Engine Displacement: 38cc
  • Power Output: Approximately 1.8 horsepower (1.3 kW) – Note: Horsepower can vary slightly depending on testing conditions and fuel used.
  • Bar Length: 16 inches (40 cm)
  • Chain Pitch: 3/8 inch
  • Chain Gauge: 0.050 inch
  • Weight (without bar and chain): Approximately 10 lbs (4.5 kg)
  • Fuel Tank Capacity: 12.7 fl oz (375 ml)
  • Oil Tank Capacity: 7.1 fl oz (210 ml)

Key Features and Benefits

  • Easy Start System: Reduces pulling force required to start the engine. This is a lifesaver on cold mornings!
  • Inertia-Activated Chain Brake: Stops the chain immediately in case of kickback, a critical safety feature.
  • Anti-Vibration System: Minimizes fatigue during extended use, which is essential when processing large quantities of firewood.
  • Automatic Chain Oiler: Keeps the chain lubricated for smooth cutting and extended chain life.
  • Durable Construction: Built to withstand the rigors of regular use.

My Personal Experience with the J3816

I’ve used the J3816 for several seasons now, primarily for processing fallen trees and preparing firewood for my own home. What I appreciate most is its balance of power and weight. It’s powerful enough to handle logs up to 14 inches in diameter with ease, yet light enough that I can use it for extended periods without excessive fatigue. The easy start system is also a major plus, especially when I haven’t used it for a while.

One thing I did notice is that the factory-installed chain isn’t the highest quality. I quickly upgraded to a professional-grade chain, which significantly improved cutting performance and reduced the frequency of sharpening. I’ll talk more about chain selection later.

Wood Selection Criteria: The Foundation of Good Firewood

The quality of your firewood starts with the wood itself. Not all wood burns the same, and selecting the right type is crucial for efficient heating and minimizing creosote buildup in your chimney.

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods

The primary distinction is between hardwoods and softwoods. Hardwoods, like oak, maple, ash, and beech, are denser and burn hotter and longer than softwoods. Softwoods, like pine, fir, spruce, and cedar, ignite easily but burn quickly and produce more smoke and creosote.

Data Points:

  • BTU Content: Hardwoods generally have a higher BTU (British Thermal Unit) content per cord than softwoods. Oak, for example, can have a BTU content of around 24-30 million BTU per cord, while pine might only have 15-20 million BTU per cord.
  • Density: Density is directly related to BTU content. Higher density means more wood fiber per unit volume, resulting in more energy released when burned.
  • Creosote Production: Softwoods contain more resins and sap, which contribute to creosote buildup in chimneys. Creosote is a flammable byproduct that can cause chimney fires.

My Experience:

I primarily burn a mix of oak and maple. I find that oak provides a long, steady heat, perfect for overnight burns. Maple is a bit easier to split and ignites more readily, making it a good choice for starting fires. I avoid burning softwoods indoors unless it’s absolutely necessary, and even then, I burn them in small quantities and monitor my chimney closely.

Species-Specific Characteristics

Within hardwoods and softwoods, there are significant variations in burning characteristics.

  • Oak: High BTU content, long burn time, can be difficult to split, requires long seasoning.
  • Maple: Good BTU content, relatively easy to split, seasons well.
  • Ash: Excellent BTU content, splits easily, seasons quickly.
  • Beech: High BTU content, burns cleanly, can be difficult to split.
  • Pine: Low BTU content, easy to ignite, burns quickly, high resin content, produces significant creosote.
  • Fir: Similar to pine, but generally burns a bit cleaner.
  • Spruce: Low BTU content, easy to ignite, burns quickly, produces moderate creosote.

Practical Tip:

Learn to identify the different types of trees in your area. This will allow you to make informed decisions about which wood to harvest for firewood. A good field guide to trees can be an invaluable resource.

The Importance of Seasoning

Seasoning is the process of drying wood to reduce its moisture content. Green wood (freshly cut wood) can have a moisture content of 50% or higher, while seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.

Why Season?

  • Improved Burning Efficiency: Dry wood burns hotter and cleaner than green wood.
  • Reduced Smoke Production: Green wood produces significantly more smoke.
  • Easier Ignition: Dry wood ignites much more easily.
  • Lower Creosote Buildup: Dry wood produces less creosote.

Data Points:

  • Moisture Content Targets: Firewood should ideally have a moisture content of 15-20% for optimal burning.
  • Drying Time: The time required to season firewood depends on the type of wood, the climate, and how the wood is stacked. Generally, hardwoods require at least 6-12 months of seasoning, while softwoods may only require 3-6 months.
  • Moisture Meter: A moisture meter is a valuable tool for determining the moisture content of firewood.

My Method:

I stack my firewood in a single row, off the ground, in a sunny and windy location. This allows for maximum air circulation, which speeds up the drying process. I also cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow, but I leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.

Technical Requirements:

  • Target Moisture Content: 15-20%
  • Stacking Method: Single row, off the ground, in a sunny and windy location.
  • Protection: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp.
  • Monitoring: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content regularly.

Tool Calibration Standards and Maintenance

A well-maintained chainsaw is a safe and efficient chainsaw. Regular maintenance is essential for ensuring optimal performance and prolonging the life of your J3816.

Chain Sharpening

A sharp chain is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. A dull chain requires more force to cut, which can increase the risk of kickback and fatigue.

Frequency:

The frequency of chain sharpening depends on the type of wood you’re cutting and the amount of use. As a general rule, sharpen the chain every time you refuel the saw. I sharpen mine even more often if I’m cutting dirty or knotty wood.

Tools:

  • Chainsaw File: A round file specifically designed for sharpening chainsaw chains.
  • File Guide: A guide that helps you maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
  • Depth Gauge Tool: A tool for adjusting the depth gauges (rakers) on the chain.

Procedure:

  1. Secure the chainsaw in a vise or on a stable surface.
  2. Identify the cutting teeth and the depth gauges.
  3. Using the file guide, file each cutting tooth at the correct angle and depth. Refer to your chainsaw manual for the recommended angles.
  4. Adjust the depth gauges using the depth gauge tool. The depth gauges should be slightly lower than the cutting teeth.
  5. Repeat the process for all cutting teeth.

Technical Requirements:

  • Filing Angle: Refer to the chainsaw manual for the recommended filing angle for your chain.
  • Depth Gauge Setting: Refer to the chainsaw manual for the recommended depth gauge setting for your chain.
  • File Size: Use the correct size file for your chain pitch.

My Sharpening Routine:

I use a file guide to ensure that I maintain the correct filing angle. I also pay close attention to the depth gauges. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain will chatter and cut poorly. If they are too low, the chain will grab and increase the risk of kickback. I use a depth gauge tool to maintain the correct depth gauge setting. I also invested in a chain grinder for touching up my chains.

Chain and Bar Maintenance

  • Chain Lubrication: Ensure that the chain is properly lubricated at all times. The automatic chain oiler should be dispensing oil continuously while the saw is running. Check the oil level regularly and refill as needed.
  • Bar Cleaning: Clean the bar regularly to remove sawdust and debris. Use a scraper or a wire brush to clean the bar groove.
  • Bar Inspection: Inspect the bar regularly for wear and damage. Replace the bar if it is bent, cracked, or excessively worn.
  • Chain Tension: Check the chain tension regularly and adjust as needed. The chain should be snug on the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.

Technical Requirements:

  • Chain Oil: Use a high-quality chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws.
  • Bar Cleaning Frequency: Clean the bar after each use.
  • Chain Tension: Adjust the chain tension so that it is snug on the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.

Air Filter Cleaning

A clean air filter is essential for proper engine performance. A clogged air filter can restrict airflow, which can reduce power and increase fuel consumption.

Frequency:

Clean the air filter regularly, especially when cutting in dusty conditions. I clean mine after every few uses.

Procedure:

  1. Remove the air filter cover.
  2. Remove the air filter.
  3. Clean the air filter with compressed air or warm, soapy water.
  4. Allow the air filter to dry completely before reinstalling it.

Technical Requirements:

  • Cleaning Method: Use compressed air or warm, soapy water.
  • Drying Time: Allow the air filter to dry completely before reinstalling it.

Spark Plug Maintenance

A clean and properly gapped spark plug is essential for reliable starting and smooth engine operation.

Frequency:

Inspect the spark plug regularly and replace it as needed. I replace mine every year or two, depending on how much I use the saw.

Procedure:

  1. Remove the spark plug.
  2. Inspect the spark plug for wear and damage.
  3. Clean the spark plug with a wire brush.
  4. Check the spark plug gap and adjust as needed. Refer to your chainsaw manual for the recommended gap.
  5. Reinstall the spark plug.

Technical Requirements:

  • Spark Plug Gap: Refer to the chainsaw manual for the recommended spark plug gap.

Carburetor Adjustment

The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture entering the engine. If the carburetor is not properly adjusted, the engine may run poorly or not start at all.

When to Adjust:

Adjust the carburetor if the engine is difficult to start, runs poorly, or produces excessive smoke.

Procedure:

Carburetor adjustment is a complex procedure that requires specialized tools and knowledge. I strongly recommend consulting a qualified technician if you are not comfortable performing this task yourself.

Technical Requirements:

  • Tools: Carburetor adjustment tool.
  • Knowledge: Understanding of carburetor operation and adjustment procedures.

Fuel System Maintenance

  • Fuel Filter: Replace the fuel filter regularly to prevent contaminants from entering the carburetor.
  • Fuel Lines: Inspect the fuel lines regularly for cracks and leaks. Replace the fuel lines if they are damaged.
  • Fuel Storage: Store fuel in a clean, airtight container. Use fresh fuel and avoid storing fuel for extended periods.

Technical Requirements:

  • Fuel Filter Replacement Frequency: Replace the fuel filter every year.
  • Fuel Storage: Store fuel in a clean, airtight container. Use fresh fuel.

Safety Equipment Requirements: Protecting Yourself

Safety is paramount when working with chainsaws. Never operate a chainsaw without wearing appropriate safety equipment.

Required Safety Gear

  • Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
  • Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from flying chips and sawdust. Safety glasses or a face shield are essential.
  • Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud. Earplugs or earmuffs will protect your hearing from damage.
  • Gloves: Provide a firm grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts. These are arguably the most important piece of safety equipment.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw cuts.

My Safety Philosophy:

I never compromise on safety. I wear all of the required safety gear every time I use my chainsaw, even for short tasks. I also inspect my safety gear regularly to ensure that it is in good condition.

Data Points:

  • Chainsaw Chaps: Chainsaw chaps are rated by their ability to stop a chainsaw chain at a certain speed. Choose chaps that are rated for the speed of your chainsaw.
  • Hearing Protection: Choose hearing protection that provides adequate noise reduction for the noise level of your chainsaw.

Safe Operating Procedures

  • Read the Manual: Before operating the chainsaw, read the owner’s manual carefully and understand all of the safety instructions.
  • Inspect the Chainsaw: Before each use, inspect the chainsaw for damage and ensure that all of the safety features are working properly.
  • Clear the Work Area: Before starting the chainsaw, clear the work area of obstacles and ensure that there is adequate space to work safely.
  • Maintain a Firm Grip: Hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands at all times.
  • Avoid Kickback: Kickback is a sudden and violent upward or backward movement of the chainsaw. Avoid kickback by keeping the tip of the bar away from objects and by cutting at a safe angle.
  • Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and can increase the risk of injury.
  • Never Operate a Chainsaw When Fatigued or Under the Influence of Drugs or Alcohol: Operating a chainsaw requires focus and concentration. Never operate a chainsaw when you are fatigued or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
  • Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings at all times. Watch out for falling branches, uneven terrain, and other hazards.
  • Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid binding the chain and to ensure that the log falls in a safe direction.
  • Shut Off the Chainsaw: Shut off the chainsaw when you are not actively cutting.
  • Carry the Chainsaw Safely: Carry the chainsaw with the bar facing away from your body and with the chain brake engaged.

Case Study: Avoiding Kickback

I was once cutting a small tree when the tip of the bar contacted a hidden branch. The chainsaw kicked back violently, throwing me off balance. Fortunately, I was wearing all of my safety gear and was able to avoid serious injury. This experience reinforced the importance of being aware of my surroundings and avoiding kickback at all costs.

Wood Processing Methods: From Tree to Firewood

Once you’ve selected your wood and ensured your safety, it’s time to process it into usable firewood.

Felling Trees (If Applicable)

If you’re felling your own trees, it’s crucial to do so safely and responsibly. This requires knowledge of tree felling techniques and a thorough understanding of the risks involved. I strongly recommend seeking professional training before attempting to fell trees yourself.

Key Considerations:

  • Tree Lean: Determine the direction of the tree’s natural lean.
  • Wind Direction: Consider the wind direction.
  • Obstacles: Identify any obstacles that could affect the tree’s fall.
  • Escape Route: Plan an escape route in case the tree falls in an unexpected direction.
  • Cutting Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques, such as the undercut and back cut, to control the direction of the fall.

Technical Requirements:

  • Undercut: A notch cut into the tree on the side you want it to fall. The undercut should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
  • Back Cut: A cut made on the opposite side of the tree from the undercut. The back cut should be slightly higher than the undercut and should leave a hinge of wood to control the direction of the fall.

Bucking Logs

Bucking is the process of cutting logs into shorter lengths. This is typically done after felling the tree or when processing logs that have been delivered to your property.

Recommended Lengths:

The ideal length for firewood depends on the size of your wood stove or fireplace. As a general rule, cut logs to a length that is 2-3 inches shorter than the firebox. Common lengths include 16 inches, 18 inches, and 20 inches.

Cutting Techniques:

  • Support the Log: Support the log to prevent it from pinching the chain. Use sawhorses or other supports to raise the log off the ground.
  • Cut from the Top: Cut from the top of the log whenever possible. This will help prevent the log from rolling or shifting during the cut.
  • Avoid Binding the Chain: If the chain starts to bind, stop cutting and reposition the log.
  • Use a Consistent Length: Use a measuring stick or tape measure to ensure that all of the logs are cut to the same length.

Technical Requirements:

  • Log Support: Use sawhorses or other supports to raise the log off the ground.
  • Measuring Tool: Use a measuring stick or tape measure to ensure consistent length.

Splitting Wood

Splitting wood is the process of dividing logs into smaller pieces for easier burning.

Tools:

  • Splitting Axe: A heavy axe with a wedge-shaped head designed for splitting wood.
  • Maul: A heavier version of the splitting axe, with a broader head and a longer handle.
  • Wedges: Metal wedges that are driven into the wood with a sledgehammer to split particularly tough logs.
  • Hydraulic Log Splitter: A powered machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs.

Techniques:

  • Choose the Right Tool: Use the appropriate tool for the size and type of wood you are splitting. A splitting axe is suitable for smaller logs, while a maul or hydraulic log splitter is better for larger logs.
  • Find a Natural Split: Look for cracks or splits in the wood and aim for those areas.
  • Use a Solid Surface: Split wood on a solid surface, such as a chopping block or a large stump.
  • Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep your feet and other body parts out of the path of the axe or maul.
  • Use Wedges for Tough Logs: If a log is too tough to split with an axe or maul, use wedges. Drive the wedges into the log with a sledgehammer until it splits.

My Splitting Strategy:

I prefer using a maul for most of my splitting. I find that it provides a good balance of power and control. For particularly tough logs, I use wedges and a sledgehammer. I also invested in a hydraulic log splitter a few years ago, which has significantly reduced the amount of time and effort required to split large quantities of wood.

Data Points:

  • Wood Moisture Content: Dry wood is easier to split than green wood. Seasoning your wood before splitting it will make the process much easier.
  • Wood Type: Some types of wood are easier to split than others. Ash, for example, splits easily, while oak can be more difficult.

Stacking Firewood

Proper stacking is crucial for seasoning firewood effectively.

Best Practices:

  • Elevate the Stack: Stack the firewood on a platform or pallets to keep it off the ground. This will improve air circulation and prevent moisture from wicking into the wood.
  • Single Row Stacking: Stack the firewood in a single row to maximize air circulation.
  • Orient the Logs: Orient the logs with the cut ends facing outward. This will allow air to circulate through the stack.
  • Leave Space Between Rows: Leave space between rows of firewood to allow for air circulation.
  • Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
  • Sun and Wind Exposure: Place the stack in a sunny and windy location to promote drying.

Technical Requirements:

  • Elevation: Elevate the stack at least 4 inches off the ground.
  • Spacing: Leave at least 2 inches of space between rows of firewood.
  • Covering: Cover the top of the stack with a waterproof tarp.

Measuring Firewood

Firewood is typically sold by the cord. A cord is a unit of volume equal to 128 cubic feet.

Cord Dimensions:

A standard cord of firewood is 8 feet long, 4 feet high, and 4 feet deep.

Calculating Volume:

To calculate the volume of a stack of firewood, multiply the length, height, and depth in feet.

Example:

A stack of firewood that is 6 feet long, 4 feet high, and 3 feet deep has a volume of 72 cubic feet (6 x 4 x 3 = 72). This is slightly more than half of a cord.

Technical Requirements:

  • Cord Volume: 128 cubic feet
  • Standard Dimensions: 8 feet long, 4 feet high, and 4 feet deep

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with the best equipment and techniques, you may encounter problems when preparing firewood. Here are some common issues and how to address them.

Chainsaw Won’t Start

  • Check the Fuel: Make sure there is fuel in the tank and that the fuel is fresh.
  • Check the Spark Plug: Make sure the spark plug is clean and properly gapped.
  • Check the Air Filter: Make sure the air filter is clean.
  • Check the Carburetor: If the engine is still not starting, the carburetor may need to be adjusted or cleaned.

Chainsaw Cuts Poorly

  • Sharpen the Chain: A dull chain is the most common cause of poor cutting performance.
  • Check the Chain Tension: Make sure the chain is properly tensioned.
  • Check the Bar: Make sure the bar is not bent or worn.
  • Check the Wood: Some types of wood are more difficult to cut than others.

Chainsaw Overheats

  • Check the Air Filter: A clogged air filter can cause the engine to overheat.
  • Check the Cooling Fins: Make sure the cooling fins on the engine are clean and unobstructed.
  • Check the Fuel Mixture: Make sure the fuel mixture is correct.
  • Avoid Overloading the Chainsaw: Avoid cutting wood that is too large or too hard for the chainsaw.

Wood is Difficult to Split

  • Season the Wood: Dry wood is easier to split than green wood.
  • Use the Right Tool: Use the appropriate tool for the size and type of wood you are splitting.
  • Find a Natural Split: Look for cracks or splits in the wood and aim for those areas.
  • Use Wedges: Use wedges for tough logs.

Firewood Doesn’t Burn Well

  • Season the Firewood: Dry firewood burns better than green firewood.
  • Use the Right Type of Wood: Hardwoods burn hotter and longer than softwoods.
  • Store the Firewood Properly: Store the firewood in a dry location.
  • Proper Airflow: Ensure adequate airflow in your wood stove or fireplace.

Conclusion: Mastering the Art of Firewood

Preparing firewood is a rewarding but demanding task. By understanding the John Deere J3816 chainsaw, practicing safe operating procedures, selecting the right wood, and employing proper processing techniques, you can efficiently and safely produce high-quality firewood for your home. Remember, the key is to invest in the right tools, prioritize safety, and take the time to learn the craft. With a little practice and patience, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying the warmth and comfort of a wood-burning fire all winter long.

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