Is Wild Cherry Good Firewood? (5 Key Drying Tips)

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Is Wild Cherry Good Firewood? (5 Key Drying Tips)

The scent of woodsmoke on a crisp autumn evening. The satisfying crackle of a fire in the hearth. These are the hallmarks of a well-stocked woodpile and the promise of warmth through the winter months. But before you can enjoy that cozy scene, you need to know what wood to burn. And that’s where the question of wild cherry comes in.

You know, securing a reliable source of heat is becoming increasingly critical. The global firewood market is experiencing a resurgence, fueled by both economic and environmental factors. According to recent reports, the demand for firewood is projected to rise by 5-7% annually over the next five years, driven by increasing energy costs and a growing interest in sustainable heating solutions. This trend underscores the importance of understanding the best wood types for firewood and how to process them efficiently.

I’ve spent years splitting, stacking, and burning various types of wood, and I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes for good firewood. Wild cherry? It’s a bit of a mixed bag, but with the right approach, it can be a valuable addition to your woodpile. Let’s dive in.

Wild Cherry Firewood: A Detailed Look

Wild cherry, scientifically known as Prunus serotina, is a common hardwood found throughout North America and parts of Europe. It’s known for its beautiful reddish-brown wood, often used in furniture making. But how does it fare as firewood?

The Good

Heat Output: Wild cherry provides a decent amount of heat, roughly around 20 million BTUs (British Thermal Units) per cord. This puts it on par with other hardwoods like red oak and ash, making it a solid choice for heating your home.
Easy to Split: Compared to some of the notoriously knotty hardwoods like elm or maple, wild cherry generally splits quite easily. This saves you time and effort, especially if you’re splitting by hand. I’ve found that using a good maul or hydraulic splitter makes quick work of even the larger rounds.
Pleasant Aroma: One of the biggest draws of wild cherry is its sweet, aromatic smoke. It’s a delightful scent that many people find enjoyable, turning the chore of tending the fire into a sensory pleasure.
Relatively Quick Drying: Wild cherry dries faster than denser hardwoods like oak, meaning you can season it in a shorter time frame. This is a significant advantage if you need firewood quickly.

The Not-So-Good

Sparking: Wild cherry tends to spark more than other hardwoods. This is due to its sap content and can be a concern if you have an open fireplace. Using a fireplace screen is a must.
Rotting: Wild cherry is susceptible to rot if left on the ground. It’s crucial to get it off the ground and properly stacked to prevent decay.
Availability: Depending on your region, wild cherry may not be as readily available as other common firewood species. This can impact the cost and effort involved in acquiring it.

Understanding Key Concepts: Green vs. Seasoned Wood

Before we move on to drying tips, let’s clarify a few key concepts.

Green Wood: This is freshly cut wood that still contains a high moisture content, typically ranging from 30% to over 50%. Burning green wood is inefficient because a significant portion of the energy is used to evaporate the water, resulting in less heat and more smoke.
Seasoned Wood: This is wood that has been properly dried, reducing its moisture content to around 20% or less. Seasoned wood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently.

The difference between burning green wood and seasoned wood is night and day. I remember one winter when I was desperate for firewood and burned some partially seasoned maple. It was a smoky, sooty mess that barely produced any heat. I learned my lesson!

5 Key Drying Tips for Wild Cherry Firewood

Now that we know the pros and cons of wild cherry and the importance of seasoning, let’s get into the nitty-gritty of drying it properly. These tips are based on my own experiences and best practices gleaned from years of wood processing.

1. Cut and Split Early

The sooner you cut and split your wild cherry, the sooner it will start drying. Aim to cut your firewood in the late winter or early spring. This gives it the entire spring and summer to season before you need it in the fall or winter.

Why Early Cutting Matters: Trees have the lowest moisture content during the dormant season. Cutting in late winter or early spring takes advantage of this natural dryness.
Splitting is Key: Splitting exposes more surface area to the air, accelerating the drying process. Smaller pieces dry faster than large rounds.

I always try to get my firewood cut and split by April at the latest. It’s a bit of a race against time, but it makes a huge difference in how well the wood seasons.

Step-by-Step Guide to Cutting and Splitting:

Felling the Tree (If Applicable): If you’re felling the tree yourself, ensure you have the proper safety gear: helmet, eye protection, ear protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. Use proper felling techniques to control the direction of the fall.
- Safety First: Always be aware of your surroundings and potential hazards, such as overhead branches and uneven terrain.
De-limbing: Remove all branches from the trunk. A chainsaw is the most efficient tool for this, but a hatchet or axe can also be used for smaller branches.
Bucking: Cut the trunk into manageable lengths. I typically cut my firewood into 16-inch lengths, but you can adjust this based on the size of your stove or fireplace.
- Pro Tip: Use a measuring stick to ensure consistent lengths.
Splitting: Split the rounds into smaller pieces. A maul is a traditional tool for splitting, but a hydraulic splitter can save you a lot of time and energy, especially for larger rounds.
- Wedge it: For knotty pieces, use a splitting wedge to help break them apart.

2. Proper Stacking is Crucial

How you stack your firewood is just as important as when you cut it. A well-stacked pile promotes airflow, which is essential for drying.

Elevate the Wood: Stack your firewood on pallets, rails, or even large rocks to keep it off the ground. This prevents moisture from wicking up into the wood and promotes air circulation underneath.
Create Air Gaps: Leave gaps between rows and stacks to allow air to circulate freely. I typically leave about 2-4 inches between rows.
Stack in a Single Row: Stacking in a single row, rather than a large pile, maximizes exposure to sunlight and wind, accelerating the drying process.
Consider prevailing winds: If you know the direction of the prevailing winds, orient your stacks perpendicular to the wind to maximize airflow.

I’ve seen people stack firewood in giant, disorganized piles, and it’s a recipe for disaster. The wood at the bottom rots, and the whole pile takes forever to dry. A little bit of effort in stacking goes a long way.

Stacking Techniques:

Base Layer: Create a solid base using pallets or rails.
First Row: Stack the first row of firewood tightly together.
Subsequent Rows: Leave gaps between rows to promote airflow.
End Stacking: Use a crisscross pattern at the ends of the stack to prevent it from toppling over. This is often called a “Holz Hausen” style.
Top Covering: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or roofing material to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open for ventilation.

3. Location, Location, Location

The location of your woodpile is critical for successful seasoning. Choose a spot that is:

Sunny: Sunlight helps to warm the wood and evaporate moisture.
Windy: Wind promotes airflow, which carries away moisture.
Well-Drained: Avoid areas that are prone to flooding or standing water.

I once stacked my firewood in a shady, damp area behind my shed, thinking it would be protected from the elements. Big mistake! The wood stayed damp and started to rot. Now, I always choose the sunniest, windiest spot I can find.

Optimizing Location:

South-Facing Exposure: A south-facing location provides the most sunlight.
Elevated Ground: Choose a slightly elevated area to improve drainage.
Away from Trees: Avoid stacking firewood directly under trees, as this can reduce sunlight and airflow.

4. Cover it Right

While you want to protect your firewood from rain and snow, you also need to allow it to breathe. Covering your woodpile properly is a delicate balance.

Top Cover Only: Only cover the top of the stack, leaving the sides open for ventilation. This allows air to circulate while preventing rain and snow from soaking the wood.
Use a Tarp or Roofing Material: A tarp is a simple and effective way to cover your woodpile. You can also use roofing material, such as corrugated metal or asphalt shingles.
Secure the Cover: Secure the cover with ropes or weights to prevent it from blowing away in the wind.
Avoid Wrapping the Entire Stack: Wrapping the entire stack in a tarp will trap moisture and prevent the wood from drying properly.

I’ve seen folks completely wrap their woodpiles in tarps, thinking they’re doing the right thing. It’s like putting your firewood in a sauna! You want to protect it from the elements, but you also need to let it breathe.

Covering Techniques:

Choose a Cover: Select a tarp or roofing material that is large enough to cover the top of the stack.
Position the Cover: Drape the cover over the top of the stack, leaving the sides open.
Secure the Cover: Secure the cover with ropes or weights to prevent it from blowing away.
Inspect Regularly: Check the cover regularly to ensure it is still in place and that the wood is not getting wet.

5. Monitor Moisture Content

The only way to know for sure if your firewood is properly seasoned is to measure its moisture content.

Use a Moisture Meter: A moisture meter is a handheld device that measures the moisture content of wood. You can purchase one at most hardware stores for around $20-$50.
Target Moisture Content: Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less. This is the ideal range for efficient burning.
Test Multiple Pieces: Test several pieces of wood throughout the stack to get an accurate reading.
Split and Test: Split a piece of wood and test the freshly exposed surface for the most accurate reading.

I always use a moisture meter to check my firewood before I start burning it. It’s a simple and effective way to ensure that I’m burning dry, seasoned wood.

Using a Moisture Meter:

Turn on the Meter: Turn on the moisture meter and select the appropriate setting for wood.
Insert the Probes: Insert the probes into the wood, making sure they are firmly in contact with the surface.
Read the Display: Read the moisture content displayed on the meter.
Record the Reading: Record the moisture content for future reference.

Tool Selection: Chainsaws vs. Let’s compare two essential tools: chainsaws and axes.
Chainsaws

Pros:

Efficiency: Chainsaws are incredibly efficient for felling trees, de-limbing, and bucking logs. They can cut through wood much faster than an axe.

Versatility: Chainsaws can be used for a wide range of tasks, from cutting small branches to felling large trees.

Power: Chainsaws provide a lot of power, making it easier to cut through dense or knotty wood.

Cons:

Safety: Chainsaws are dangerous tools that require proper training and safety gear. Kickback is a common hazard.

Maintenance: Chainsaws require regular maintenance, including sharpening the chain, cleaning the air filter, and changing the oil.

Cost: Chainsaws can be expensive, especially high-quality models.

Noise: Chainsaws are noisy, which can be a concern in residential areas.

Axes

Pros:

Simplicity: Axes are simple tools that require minimal maintenance.

Cost: Axes are relatively inexpensive compared to chainsaws.

Quiet: Axes are quiet, making them a good choice for residential areas.

Exercise: Splitting wood with an axe is a great workout!

Cons:

Efficiency: Axes are much less efficient than chainsaws for felling trees and bucking logs.

Effort: Splitting wood with an axe requires a lot of physical effort.

Safety: Axes can be dangerous if not used properly.

Limitations: Axes are not suitable for cutting large trees or dense wood.

My Recommendation:

For most firewood processing tasks, I recommend using a chainsaw for felling trees, de-limbing, and bucking logs. An axe or maul is best for splitting the rounds into smaller pieces. If you’re only processing a small amount of firewood, an axe may be sufficient. However, for larger quantities, a chainsaw will save you a lot of time and effort.

Costs, Budgeting, and Resource Management

Processing firewood can be a cost-effective way to heat your home, but it’s important to consider the costs involved and manage your resources effectively.

Costs

Equipment: Chainsaws, axes, mauls, hydraulic splitters, moisture meters, safety gear.
Fuel and Oil: Gasoline and chain oil for chainsaws.
Maintenance: Repairs and replacement parts for equipment.
Transportation: Truck or trailer for hauling firewood.
Permits: Some areas require permits for cutting firewood on public lands.

Budgeting

Estimate Your Needs: Determine how much firewood you will need to heat your home for the winter. A general rule of thumb is that a cord of firewood will heat an average-sized home for about one month.
Calculate Your Costs: Estimate the costs of equipment, fuel, maintenance, and transportation.
Compare Costs: Compare the cost of processing your own firewood to the cost of buying it from a supplier.
Set a Budget: Set a budget and stick to it.

Resource Management

Sustainable Harvesting: Harvest firewood sustainably to ensure the long-term health of the forest. Avoid cutting down young trees or trees that are providing habitat for wildlife.
Minimize Waste: Use all parts of the tree, including branches and small pieces of wood, for kindling or other purposes.
Proper Storage: Store firewood properly to prevent rot and decay.
Efficient Burning: Burn firewood efficiently to maximize heat output and minimize emissions.

Troubleshooting and Common Pitfalls

Even with the best planning and preparation, things can sometimes go wrong. Here are some common pitfalls to avoid:

Burning Green Wood: Burning green wood is inefficient and produces a lot of smoke. Always make sure your firewood is properly seasoned before burning it.
Improper Stacking: Stacking firewood improperly can prevent it from drying properly. Always stack your firewood in a single row, off the ground, and with gaps between rows.
Poor Location: Stacking firewood in a shady, damp area can promote rot and decay. Always choose a sunny, windy, and well-drained location.
Neglecting Safety: Chainsaws and axes are dangerous tools. Always wear proper safety gear and follow safety guidelines.
Overworking Yourself: Processing firewood can be physically demanding. Take breaks and don’t try to do too much at once.

Real Examples and Case Studies

Let me share a couple of real-life examples to illustrate these points.

Case Study 1: The Rotting Woodpile: A friend of mine stacked his firewood in a large pile behind his garage. He didn’t elevate the wood or leave any gaps for airflow. As a result, the wood at the bottom of the pile started to rot, and the entire pile took over two years to dry properly. He learned the hard way the importance of proper stacking.
Case Study 2: The Efficient Firewood Processor: Another friend of mine has a well-organized firewood processing system. He cuts and splits his firewood in the spring, stacks it in a single row on pallets, covers the top with a tarp, and monitors the moisture content with a meter. As a result, he always has a supply of dry, seasoned firewood ready to burn.

Next Steps and Additional Resources

So, is wild cherry good firewood? Absolutely! With the right preparation and drying techniques, it can be a valuable addition to your woodpile, providing warmth and a pleasant aroma throughout the winter.

Here are some next steps you can take:

Identify Wild Cherry Trees: Learn to identify wild cherry trees in your area.
Acquire the Necessary Tools: Invest in a chainsaw, axe, maul, moisture meter, and safety gear.
Cut and Split Your Firewood: Cut and split your firewood in the late winter or early spring.
Stack Your Firewood Properly: Stack your firewood in a single row, off the ground, and with gaps between rows.
Cover Your Firewood: Cover the top of your firewood stack with a tarp or roofing material.
Monitor the Moisture Content: Monitor the moisture content of your firewood with a moisture meter.
Enjoy Your Firewood: Once your firewood is properly seasoned, enjoy the warmth and aroma of a crackling fire.

Additional Resources:

Local Firewood Suppliers: Search online for local firewood suppliers in your area.
Chainsaw and Axe Retailers: Visit your local hardware store or outdoor equipment retailer for chainsaws, axes, and other tools.
Forestry Agencies: Contact your local forestry agency for information on sustainable harvesting practices and firewood permits.
Online Forums and Communities: Join online forums and communities dedicated to firewood processing and wood burning.

By following these tips and guidelines, you can successfully process wild cherry firewood and enjoy the warmth and comfort of a wood-burning fire all winter long. Happy splitting!

Is Wild Cherry Good Firewood? (5 Key Drying Tips)