Is Ash Good Wood to Burn? (5 Secrets from Pro Firewood Processors)

Unlock the Secret to a Warmer Winter: Why Ash Firewood is a Top Choice and How to Process It Like a Pro

I’m going to let you in on a little secret: not all firewood is created equal. I’ve spent years felling trees, processing wood, and heating my home with it. Through experience, I’ve discovered the best methods for turning ash into the perfect fuel.

In this guide, I’ll share five essential secrets for processing ash firewood like a seasoned pro, ensuring you get the most out of this fantastic wood. Whether you’re a complete beginner or have some experience, you’ll learn valuable tips to make your firewood preparation more efficient, safer, and ultimately, more rewarding.

Ash: The King of Firewood?

Before diving into the processing secrets, let’s establish why ash is so highly regarded.

Ash boasts several advantages that make it a top-tier firewood choice:

• High Heat Output: Ash provides excellent heat, rivaling oak and birch. On average, a cord of seasoned ash will deliver around 20 million BTUs (British Thermal Units). This is roughly equivalent to 140 gallons of heating oil, making it a cost-effective heating solution.
• Burns Cleanly: Ash produces relatively little smoke, which is crucial for indoor wood stoves and fireplaces. Less smoke means less creosote buildup in your chimney, reducing the risk of chimney fires.
• Easy to Split: Ash has a straight grain, making it easier to split than many other hardwoods. This is a huge advantage, especially if you’re splitting wood by hand.
• Seasons Quickly: Ash dries relatively quickly compared to oak. With proper stacking and ventilation, it can be ready to burn in as little as six to twelve months.
• Low Sparking: Ash doesn’t spark much, making it safer for open fireplaces.

However, it’s important to note that ash is susceptible to the Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), an invasive insect that has devastated ash populations across North America and Europe. If you’re sourcing ash, ensure it’s from a sustainable and responsibly managed source.

Secret #1: Identify Ash Correctly (Before You Even Think About Felling)

This may sound obvious, but misidentifying your wood can lead to disappointment and inefficiency. Identifying ash trees correctly is the first crucial step. You don’t want to spend hours processing what you think is ash, only to discover it’s something else entirely.

Key Identification Features:

• Opposite Branching: This is the most reliable identifier. Unlike most trees with alternating branches, ash branches grow directly opposite each other.
• Compound Leaves: Ash leaves are compound, meaning they consist of multiple leaflets (typically 5-11) arranged along a central stem.
• Diamond-Shaped Bark Ridges: Mature ash trees have bark with a distinctive diamond-shaped pattern.
• “D” Shaped Leaf Scars: When a leaf falls off an ash tree, it leaves a scar on the twig that resembles the letter “D.”
• Buds: Ash buds are blunt and brown, positioned opposite each other on the twigs.

My Experience: I once spent an afternoon felling what I thought was ash, only to discover it was boxelder. The leaves looked similar from a distance, but the branching pattern was the giveaway. It was a valuable lesson in careful identification!

Pro Tip: Carry a good tree identification guide with you when you’re scouting for firewood. Peterson Field Guides are excellent resources. Don’t rely solely on one characteristic; look for a combination of features to confirm your identification.

What to do if you are unsure: If you’re unsure, take a sample of the leaves and bark to a local arborist or forestry expert for confirmation. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

Secret #2: Master the Felling Techniques (For Safety and Efficiency)

Felling a tree safely and efficiently is paramount. Poor felling techniques can lead to accidents, wasted wood, and damage to your equipment.

Essential Safety Gear:

• Helmet: A forestry helmet with a face shield and ear protection is non-negotiable.
• Eye Protection: Even with a face shield, wear safety glasses or goggles.
• Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud. Earplugs or earmuffs are essential to prevent hearing damage.
• Gloves: Protect your hands and improve your grip.
• Chainsaw Chaps: These provide crucial leg protection in case of a chainsaw kickback.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.

Felling Techniques:

1. Assess the Tree and Surroundings: Before making any cuts, carefully assess the tree’s lean, branch distribution, and any potential hazards (power lines, buildings, other trees). Identify the direction of the prevailing wind.
2. Plan Your Escape Route: Clear two escape routes, each at a 45-degree angle away from the anticipated direction of the fall.
3. The Notch Cut: This determines the direction of the fall.
   • Open Face Notch: A common and effective notch. Make a horizontal cut about one-third of the way into the tree. Then, make a sloping cut meeting the horizontal cut at a 45-degree angle. Remove the wedge of wood.
   • Humboldt Notch: Similar to the open face, but the sloping cut is made from the bottom up.
4. The Back Cut: This is the final cut that severs the tree. Make the back cut slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch, leaving a hinge of wood (about 10% of the tree’s diameter). The hinge controls the fall.
5. Wedges: If the tree doesn’t start to fall on its own, use felling wedges to help push it over. Insert the wedges into the back cut and drive them in with a sledgehammer.
6. Communicate: If you’re working with others, clearly communicate your intentions and ensure everyone is aware of the potential hazards.

Tools of the Trade:

• Chainsaw: I recommend a chainsaw with a bar length appropriate for the size of the trees you’re felling. For most firewood processing, a 16-20 inch bar is sufficient. I personally use a Stihl MS 261 C-M for its power and reliability.
• Felling Axe: Useful for driving in felling wedges.
• Felling Wedges: Plastic or aluminum wedges are preferred over steel wedges, as they won’t damage your chainsaw chain if you accidentally hit them.
• Sledgehammer: For driving in felling wedges.
• Measuring Tape: To ensure accurate cuts.
• Chainsaw Sharpener: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting.

Case Study: I was once felling a large ash tree near a fence line. The tree had a slight lean towards the fence. To ensure it fell in the desired direction, I used a combination of a precise notch cut and multiple felling wedges. I carefully monitored the tree’s movement as I drove in the wedges, and it fell exactly where I wanted it to, avoiding any damage to the fence.

Pro Tip: Practice felling techniques on smaller trees before tackling larger ones. Start with trees that have a natural lean in the desired direction.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

• Cutting the hinge: This can cause the tree to fall unpredictably.
• Felling a tree into another tree: This can create a dangerous situation.
• Working alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.
• Failing to maintain your chainsaw: A dull chain is a safety hazard.

Secret #3: The Art of Bucking and Splitting (Maximize Efficiency and Reduce Strain)

Once the tree is on the ground, it’s time to buck it into manageable lengths and split it into firewood. This is where efficiency and proper technique can save you a lot of time and energy.

Bucking (Cutting into Lengths):

• Determine the Length: Decide on the length of firewood you need based on the size of your stove or fireplace. Most stoves accommodate 16-inch logs, but check your appliance’s specifications.
• Measure and Mark: Use a measuring tape and marking crayon to mark the desired lengths along the trunk.
• Safe Cutting Position: Position yourself on the uphill side of the log and keep your feet firmly planted.
• Cutting Techniques:
  • Overbucking: Cutting from the top down.
  • Underbucking: Cutting from the bottom up.
  • Combination: Use a combination of overbucking and underbucking to avoid pinching your chainsaw bar.
• Support the Log: Use smaller logs or wedges to support the log and prevent it from pinching your saw.

Splitting:

• Manual Splitting:
  • Axe Selection: A splitting axe with a heavy head (6-8 pounds) is ideal for splitting firewood. I prefer a Fiskars X27 for its balance and efficiency.
  • Stance: Position yourself with your feet shoulder-width apart, one foot slightly ahead of the other.
  • Technique: Swing the axe with a controlled motion, aiming for the center of the log. Use your legs and core for power.
  • Splitting Block: A large, stable splitting block is essential. Choose a block made of hardwood, such as oak or maple.
• Hydraulic Log Splitter:
  • Tonnage: Choose a log splitter with sufficient tonnage for the size of logs you’re splitting. A 20-25 ton splitter is generally adequate for most firewood processing.
  • Operation: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Always wear safety glasses and gloves.
  • Efficiency: Hydraulic log splitters significantly increase efficiency, especially when dealing with large or knotty logs.

My Experience: I used to split all my firewood by hand. It was a great workout, but it was also time-consuming and physically demanding. Investing in a hydraulic log splitter was a game-changer. It reduced my splitting time by at least 50% and significantly reduced the strain on my body.

Pro Tip: When splitting by hand, aim for existing cracks or knots in the wood. These are natural weak points that will make splitting easier.

Case Study: I had a large ash log that was particularly knotty and difficult to split. Using a hydraulic log splitter, I was able to split it into manageable pieces by strategically positioning the log and applying consistent pressure. Without the splitter, it would have been nearly impossible to split by hand.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

• Splitting on the ground: This is dangerous and inefficient.
• Using a dull axe: A sharp axe is essential for safe and efficient splitting.
• Overreaching: Don’t swing the axe too far, as this can lead to injury.
• Working when fatigued: Splitting firewood requires focus and coordination. Take breaks when you’re tired.

Secret #4: Mastering the Art of Seasoning (The Key to Efficient Burning)

Seasoning, or drying, firewood is critical for efficient burning. Green wood contains a high moisture content (often 50% or more) and burns poorly, producing excessive smoke and creosote. Seasoned firewood, on the other hand, burns hot and clean.

Understanding Moisture Content:

• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to a moisture content of 20% or less.
• Ideal Moisture Content: 15-20% for optimal burning.

The Seasoning Process:

1. Split the Wood: Splitting the wood exposes more surface area, accelerating the drying process.
2. Stack the Wood Properly:
   • Elevated Stacks: Stack the wood on pallets or other supports to keep it off the ground and improve air circulation.
   • Single Rows: Stack the wood in single rows, allowing air to circulate freely around each piece.
   • Spacing: Leave space between rows to further enhance air circulation.
   • Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or roofing material to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.
3. Location: Choose a sunny and windy location for your woodpile. This will maximize evaporation and speed up the drying process.
4. Time: Seasoning typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Ash seasons relatively quickly compared to denser hardwoods like oak.

Testing for Seasoning:

• Moisture Meter: A moisture meter is the most accurate way to determine the moisture content of firewood. Insert the probes into a freshly split piece of wood and take a reading.
• Visual Inspection: Seasoned wood will be lighter in color and have cracks on the ends.
• Sound Test: Bang two pieces of wood together. Seasoned wood will produce a hollow sound, while green wood will sound dull.
• Weight Test: Seasoned wood will be noticeably lighter than green wood.

My Experience: I’ve found that stacking my firewood in single rows, with good air circulation, significantly reduces the seasoning time. I also use a moisture meter to ensure that my wood is properly seasoned before burning it.

Pro Tip: Stack your firewood in the spring or early summer to give it ample time to season before the winter heating season.

Case Study: I had two stacks of ash firewood. One stack was stacked in a dense pile, while the other was stacked in single rows with good air circulation. After six months, the wood in the single rows was properly seasoned, while the wood in the dense pile was still too green to burn efficiently.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

• Stacking green wood in a dense pile: This will prevent proper air circulation and slow down the drying process.
• Covering the entire woodpile with a tarp: This will trap moisture and promote mold growth.
• Burning wood that is not properly seasoned: This will result in poor combustion, excessive smoke, and creosote buildup.

Secret #5: Storage Solutions: Keeping Your Firewood Dry and Organized

Proper storage is essential for keeping your seasoned firewood dry and organized. Wet firewood is difficult to ignite and burns poorly.

Storage Options:

• Wood Shed: A wood shed is the ideal storage solution. It provides protection from the elements and keeps the wood dry and organized.
• Hoop House: A hoop house is a cost-effective alternative to a wood shed. It provides good protection from rain and snow.
• Pallet Stacks with Tarp: Stacking firewood on pallets and covering it with a tarp is a simple and affordable storage solution.
• Indoor Storage: Store a small amount of firewood near your stove or fireplace for convenience.

Storage Best Practices:

• Elevate the Wood: Keep the wood off the ground to prevent moisture absorption.
• Provide Ventilation: Ensure good air circulation to prevent mold and mildew growth.
• Protect from the Elements: Cover the wood to protect it from rain and snow.
• Keep it Organized: Stack the wood neatly to maximize space and improve air circulation.

My Experience: I built a simple wood shed using reclaimed lumber. It keeps my firewood dry and organized, and it adds a rustic touch to my property.

Pro Tip: Store your firewood away from your house to prevent insect infestations.

Case Study: My neighbor stored his firewood directly on the ground, without any protection from the elements. The wood became damp and moldy, and it was difficult to burn. I advised him to build a simple pallet stack and cover it with a tarp. He noticed a significant improvement in the quality of his firewood.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

• Storing firewood directly on the ground: This will lead to moisture absorption and rot.
• Storing firewood too close to your house: This can attract insects and rodents.
• Neglecting to protect the firewood from the elements: This will result in wet and difficult-to-burn wood.

Conclusion: Mastering Ash Firewood Processing

Processing ash firewood like a pro involves a combination of knowledge, skill, and attention to detail. By following these five secrets, you can ensure that you get the most out of this fantastic wood, enjoying warm and efficient fires all winter long.

Remember to prioritize safety, use the right tools and techniques, and take the time to properly season and store your firewood. With a little practice, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a firewood processing expert.

Next Steps:

1. Identify Ash Trees: Start by learning to identify ash trees in your area.
2. Gather Your Tools: Assemble the necessary tools, including a chainsaw, axe, log splitter, and safety gear.
3. Practice Felling Techniques: Practice felling techniques on smaller trees before tackling larger ones.
4. Season Your Firewood: Split and stack your firewood properly to allow it to season for 6-12 months.
5. Build a Storage Solution: Create a storage solution to keep your seasoned firewood dry and organized.

By taking these steps, you’ll be well-prepared to enjoy the warmth and efficiency of ash firewood for years to come. Happy burning!

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