Husqvarna Refurbished Chainsaws: Quality Insights (Pro Arborist Tips)

Let’s bust a myth right off the bat: Refurbished chainsaws are not always inferior to new ones. In fact, a well-refurbished Husqvarna chainsaw can be an absolute workhorse, often at a fraction of the cost of a new model. I’ve seen it time and again – a properly refurbished saw outperforming a brand-new, lower-end model. The key, of course, is understanding what “well-refurbished” truly means.

I’ve spent over 20 years in the woods, from felling timber to meticulously preparing firewood for the long winters. I’ve seen chainsaws come and go, both new and used. I’ve learned firsthand what makes a saw reliable, what breaks down, and how to spot a good refurbishment from a bad one. In this guide, I’ll share my insights, pro arborist tips, and hard-earned lessons to help you navigate the world of refurbished Husqvarna chainsaws. We’ll cover everything from assessing the quality of a refurbished saw to maximizing its performance and longevity.

Understanding the Appeal of Refurbished Husqvarna Chainsaws

Why even consider a refurbished chainsaw? The answer is multifaceted.

• Cost Savings: This is the most obvious benefit. A refurbished Husqvarna, depending on the model and the extent of the refurbishment, can save you a significant amount of money compared to buying new. This is especially important for those just starting out, or for experienced users who need a backup saw without breaking the bank.
• Sustainability: Buying refurbished is a more sustainable choice. It extends the life of a perfectly good machine, reducing waste and the demand for new resources.
• Potentially Higher-End Models: You might be able to afford a higher-end, professional-grade Husqvarna model in refurbished condition that would be out of your reach if purchased new. This gives you access to better performance, durability, and features.
• Tried and Tested: A refurbished saw has already been “broken in,” and any initial manufacturing defects will likely have been addressed during the refurbishment process.
• Learning Opportunity: Working on and maintaining a refurbished chainsaw can be a fantastic way to learn about small engine mechanics and chainsaw operation.

However, the appeal is only valid if the refurbishment is done correctly. That’s what we’re here to discuss.

Key Concepts: Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood & Chainsaw Selection

Before diving into the specifics of refurbished chainsaws, let’s quickly define two crucial concepts for anyone working with wood:

• Green Wood: This is freshly cut wood that still contains a high moisture content. Green wood is heavier, harder to split, and prone to warping and cracking as it dries.
• Seasoned Wood: This is wood that has been allowed to dry to a lower moisture content, typically around 20% or less. Seasoned wood is lighter, easier to split, burns more efficiently, and produces less smoke.

The type of wood you’re cutting – green or seasoned – significantly impacts the demands placed on your chainsaw. Green wood requires more power to cut, as the higher moisture content creates more friction.

This brings us to chainsaw selection. Different chainsaw models are designed for different tasks. A small, lightweight chainsaw might be perfect for limbing and light pruning, but it will struggle with felling large trees or bucking thick logs. A larger, more powerful chainsaw is needed for those heavier tasks.

When considering a refurbished chainsaw, think carefully about the types of wood you’ll be cutting and the size of the trees you’ll be felling. Match the saw’s power and bar length to your needs.

Assessing the Quality of a Refurbished Husqvarna Chainsaw: A Step-by-Step Guide

Okay, you’re considering a refurbished Husqvarna. Here’s how to assess its quality. This isn’t a quick glance; it’s a thorough inspection.

Step 1: Visual Inspection – The Devil is in the Details

• Overall Cleanliness: Is the saw clean? A clean saw suggests that the previous owner or refurbisher cared for it. Look for excessive dirt, grime, or sawdust buildup.
• Casing Condition: Check for cracks, breaks, or significant wear on the plastic casing. Minor scratches are normal, but major damage could indicate abuse.
• Bar and Chain: Examine the bar for straightness and wear. Is the bar rail worn unevenly? Is the chain sharp and properly tensioned? A dull chain can put excessive strain on the engine. Check the drive sprocket for wear. Worn sprockets can damage the chain and reduce cutting efficiency.
• Fuel and Oil Tanks: Inspect the fuel and oil tanks for leaks or cracks. Check the fuel lines for brittleness or deterioration.
• Air Filter: Remove the air filter and inspect it. A clean air filter is essential for proper engine performance. A dirty or damaged air filter should be replaced.
• Spark Plug: Remove the spark plug and inspect its condition. A fouled or damaged spark plug can indicate engine problems. The color of the spark plug can also provide clues about the engine’s condition. A light tan color is ideal.
• Carburetor Access: Check the carburetor area for any signs of fuel leakage or damage. The carburetor is a critical component of the engine, and any problems with it can significantly impact performance.

Story Time: I once bought a “refurbished” saw online that looked clean in the pictures. When it arrived, the air filter was completely clogged with sawdust, the spark plug was black with carbon buildup, and the fuel lines were cracked. It was clear that the saw hadn’t been properly inspected or serviced. I immediately returned it.

Step 2: Compression Test – The Heart of the Engine

• Why it Matters: Compression is the pressure created in the cylinder when the piston moves up. Low compression indicates worn piston rings, a damaged cylinder, or leaky valves (on some models). Low compression means the engine won’t run efficiently, and it will be difficult to start.
• How to Do It: You’ll need a compression tester. Remove the spark plug and screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole. Pull the starter cord several times until the needle on the tester stops rising.
• What to Look For: A healthy Husqvarna chainsaw engine should have a compression reading of at least 120 PSI (pounds per square inch). Anything below that indicates a problem. Ideally, you want to see 130-150 PSI or higher. Check the specific model’s specifications for the manufacturer’s recommended compression range.

Pro Tip: If you don’t have a compression tester, you can get a rough idea of the compression by pulling the starter cord. If you feel strong resistance, the compression is likely good. If the cord pulls easily with little resistance, the compression is probably low. But this is just a rough estimate; a compression tester provides a much more accurate reading.

Step 3: Starting and Idling – Listen Carefully

• Cold Start: A good engine should start relatively easily, even when cold. Pay attention to how many pulls it takes to start. Excessive pulling could indicate a problem with the fuel system or ignition.
• Idle Speed: Once started, the engine should idle smoothly without stalling. If the engine idles roughly or stalls frequently, it could indicate a problem with the carburetor or fuel system.
• Throttle Response: When you squeeze the throttle, the engine should respond quickly and smoothly. Hesitation or stuttering could indicate a problem with the carburetor.

Step 4: Running at Full Throttle – Power and Performance

• Power Output: The engine should run smoothly and powerfully at full throttle. Listen for any unusual noises, such as knocking or rattling.
• Chain Speed: The chain should spin freely and quickly at full throttle. A slow or sluggish chain could indicate a problem with the clutch or the chain brake.
• Smoke: A small amount of smoke is normal, especially when the engine is cold. However, excessive smoke could indicate a problem with the engine, such as burning oil. Blue smoke indicates burning oil, while black smoke indicates a rich fuel mixture.

Step 5: Chain Brake – Safety First

• Functionality: The chain brake is a critical safety feature. Ensure that it engages quickly and effectively when activated. Test the chain brake by engaging it while the engine is running at idle speed. The chain should stop immediately.
• Condition: Check the brake band for wear. A worn brake band may not engage properly.

Step 6: Oil Pump – Proper Lubrication

• Functionality: The oil pump lubricates the bar and chain. Ensure that it is working properly by observing the oil flow while the engine is running. You should see a steady stream of oil coming from the oiler hole on the bar.
• Adjustment: Some Husqvarna chainsaws have an adjustable oil pump. Make sure the oil pump is set to the appropriate setting for the type of wood you are cutting. Drier woods need more oil.

Step 7: Ask Questions – Knowledge is Power

• Refurbishment Process: Ask the seller about the refurbishment process. What parts were replaced? What tests were performed? A reputable seller should be able to provide detailed information.
• Warranty: Does the saw come with a warranty? A warranty provides peace of mind and protects you against potential problems.
• Return Policy: What is the seller’s return policy? If you’re not satisfied with the saw, can you return it for a refund?

Common Issues with Refurbished Chainsaws and How to Address Them

Even with a thorough inspection, problems can arise. Here are some common issues I’ve encountered with refurbished chainsaws and how to address them.

• Carburetor Problems: Carburetors can become clogged with old fuel or dirt. Symptoms include difficulty starting, rough idling, and poor throttle response.
  • Solution: Clean or rebuild the carburetor. Carburetor rebuild kits are readily available and relatively inexpensive.
• Fuel Line Problems: Fuel lines can become brittle and cracked over time, leading to fuel leaks and poor engine performance.
  • Solution: Replace the fuel lines.
• Ignition Problems: Ignition problems can cause difficulty starting or a complete failure to start.
  • Solution: Check the spark plug, ignition coil, and wiring. Replace any faulty components.
• Chain Brake Problems: The chain brake can become worn or damaged, leading to improper engagement.
  • Solution: Replace the brake band or other worn components.
• Oil Pump Problems: The oil pump can become clogged or damaged, leading to insufficient lubrication of the bar and chain.
  • Solution: Clean or replace the oil pump. Check the oil lines for blockages.
• Worn Piston Rings: Worn piston rings can cause low compression and poor engine performance.
  • Solution: Replace the piston rings. This is a more involved repair that may require professional assistance.

Case Study: I once purchased a refurbished Husqvarna 455 Rancher that had a carburetor problem. It would start, but it wouldn’t idle properly and would stall frequently. I took the carburetor apart, cleaned it thoroughly with carburetor cleaner, and replaced the fuel filter. That solved the problem, and the saw ran like a champ.

Maximizing Performance and Longevity: Pro Arborist Tips

Okay, you’ve got your refurbished Husqvarna. Now, let’s talk about maximizing its performance and longevity. These are the habits that will make your saw last.

• Use Fresh Fuel: Always use fresh, high-quality fuel with the correct oil mixture. Ethanol-free fuel is preferable, as ethanol can damage small engine components. I personally use a 50:1 fuel-to-oil ratio with a high-quality synthetic 2-stroke oil.
• Maintain Sharp Chains: A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting and safety. Dull chains require more force, which puts extra strain on the engine. Sharpen your chain regularly with a chainsaw file or a chain grinder. I usually sharpen my chain after every tank of fuel.
• Clean Air Filter Regularly: A clean air filter is essential for proper engine performance. Clean the air filter regularly with compressed air or warm, soapy water. Replace the air filter when it becomes excessively dirty or damaged.
• Check Chain Tension: Proper chain tension is important for safety and performance. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
• Lubricate the Bar and Chain: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the bar and chain. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed.
• Store the Chainsaw Properly: When storing the chainsaw, drain the fuel tank and run the engine until it stalls to prevent fuel from gumming up the carburetor. Remove the chain and clean the bar. Store the chainsaw in a dry place.
• Regular Maintenance: Perform regular maintenance, such as checking the spark plug, fuel lines, and air filter. Replace any worn or damaged components. Consult the owner’s manual for specific maintenance recommendations.

Story Time: I once neglected to clean the air filter on my chainsaw for an extended period. The engine started running poorly, and I eventually had to replace the piston and cylinder. That was a costly mistake that could have been avoided with regular maintenance.

Chainsaw Safety: A Non-Negotiable

Chainsaw safety is paramount. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including:

• Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying debris.
• Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
• Gloves: Heavy-duty gloves to protect your hands.
• Chaps: Chainsaw chaps to protect your legs from accidental cuts.
• Boots: Steel-toed boots with good ankle support.
• Helmet: A helmet to protect your head from falling branches or debris.

Felling Techniques:

• Assess the Tree: Before felling a tree, assess its size, lean, and any potential hazards, such as dead branches or power lines.
• Plan Your Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route away from the direction of the fall.
• Make a Notch Cut: Cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
• Make a Back Cut: Cut a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of wood to control the direction of the fall.
• Wedge: Use a felling wedge to help direct the fall of the tree.
• Communicate: If you’re working with others, communicate clearly and ensure everyone is aware of the felling plan.

Splitting Firewood Safely:

• Use a Proper Splitting Axe or Maul: Use a splitting axe or maul that is the appropriate size and weight for the wood you are splitting.
• Use a Splitting Block: Use a sturdy splitting block to provide a stable surface for splitting wood.
• Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep a safe distance from others when splitting wood.
• Wear Safety Glasses: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying chips of wood.
• Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and ensure there are no obstacles in your swing path.

Hydraulic Log Splitters:

Hydraulic log splitters are a safer and more efficient way to split firewood than using an axe or maul. They use hydraulic pressure to force a log against a wedge, splitting it in two.

• Benefits:
  • Reduced risk of injury
  • Increased efficiency
  • Ability to split larger logs
• Types:
  • Electric log splitters
  • Gas-powered log splitters
• Safety Considerations:
  • Wear safety glasses
  • Keep hands clear of the splitting area
  • Follow the manufacturer’s instructions

Remember: Chainsaws are powerful tools that can be dangerous if used improperly. Always follow safety precautions and consult the owner’s manual for specific instructions.

Wood Processing and Firewood Preparation: From Forest to Fireplace

Now, let’s move beyond the chainsaw itself and talk about the broader picture of wood processing and firewood preparation. This is where your choice of saw, your cutting techniques, and your understanding of wood properties all come together.

Felling Techniques:

• Directional Felling: This involves felling the tree in a specific direction to avoid obstacles or to make it easier to process the wood.
• Notch and Back Cut: This is the most common felling technique. It involves cutting a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall, and then making a back cut on the opposite side.
• Hinge Wood: Leaving a hinge of wood between the notch and the back cut helps to control the direction of the fall.
• Wedges: Felling wedges can be used to help direct the fall of the tree.

Debarking Logs:

Debarking logs removes the outer layer of bark, which can harbor insects and fungi. Debarked logs dry faster and are less prone to decay.

• Tools:
  • Draw knife
  • Spud
  • Debarking machine
• Techniques:
  • Manual debarking with a draw knife or spud
  • Mechanical debarking with a debarking machine

Bucking Logs:

Bucking logs involves cutting them into shorter lengths for easier handling and processing.

• Measurements:
  • Firewood length: Typically 16-24 inches
  • Log length for lumber: Depends on the intended use
• Techniques:
  • Use a chainsaw to cut the logs to the desired length.
  • Use a log splitter to split the logs into smaller pieces.

Splitting Firewood:

Splitting firewood reduces its size and allows it to dry more quickly.

• Tools:
  • Splitting axe
  • Maul
  • Log splitter
• Techniques:
  • Swing the axe or maul with force to split the wood.
  • Use a log splitter to split the wood hydraulically.

Stacking Firewood:

Stacking firewood allows it to dry properly and prevents it from rotting.

• Methods:
  • Crisscross stacking
  • Holz hausen stacking
• Considerations:
  • Stack firewood in a well-ventilated area.
  • Elevate the firewood off the ground to prevent moisture absorption.
  • Cover the firewood with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.

Drying Methods:

Drying firewood reduces its moisture content, making it easier to burn and producing more heat.

• Air Drying:
  • Stack firewood in a well-ventilated area.
  • Allow the firewood to dry for 6-12 months.
• Kiln Drying:
  • Dry firewood in a kiln at a controlled temperature.
  • Kiln drying can reduce the drying time to a few days or weeks.

Wood Type Selection:

Different types of wood have different burning properties.

• Hardwoods:
  • Oak, maple, ash, birch
  • Produce more heat and burn longer than softwoods
• Softwoods:
  • Pine, fir, spruce
  • Burn quickly and produce less heat than hardwoods

Cost Analysis:

The cost of firewood preparation can vary depending on the methods used and the resources available.

• Factors:
  • Cost of chainsaw and other tools
  • Cost of fuel and oil
  • Cost of labor
  • Cost of drying
• Strategic Advantages:
  • Producing your own firewood can save you money compared to buying it.
  • You can control the quality and type of wood you burn.

Case Study: I have a friend who heats his entire home with firewood. He harvests his own wood from his property and processes it using a chainsaw, log splitter, and firewood processor. He estimates that he saves several thousand dollars per year by producing his own firewood. He uses primarily Oak and Maple for the best BTU output.

Technical Details: Moisture Content Targets, Drying Times, and Skill Levels

Let’s get into some specific technical details to help you optimize your wood processing and firewood preparation.

Moisture Content Targets:

• Green Wood: 50% moisture content or higher
• Seasoned Wood: 20% moisture content or less
• Ideal Firewood: 15-20% moisture content

Drying Times:

• Air Drying: 6-12 months, depending on the climate and wood type
• Kiln Drying: Days to weeks, depending on the kiln and wood type

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaws: Match the saw’s power and bar length to your needs.
• Axes: Choose an axe that is the appropriate size and weight for the wood you are splitting.
• Log Splitters: Choose a log splitter with sufficient splitting force for the type of wood you are splitting.

Skill Levels:

• Beginner: Felling small trees, bucking logs, splitting firewood with an axe or maul.
• Intermediate: Felling larger trees, using a chainsaw safely and efficiently, operating a log splitter.
• Advanced: Operating a firewood processor, kiln drying firewood, managing a woodlot sustainably.

Costs:

• Chainsaw: $200-$1000+
• Axe/Maul: $50-$200
• Log Splitter: $500-$3000+
• Firewood Processor: $5000-$50,000+
• Kiln: $10,000-$100,000+

Material Specs:

• Firewood Stacking: 4 ft x 8 ft x 4 ft stack equals approximately one cord.
• Moisture Meters: Use a moisture meter to accurately determine the moisture content of firewood.

Strategic Insights and Tactical Instructions

Here’s where we combine strategic thinking with practical, actionable steps.

Strategic Insights:

• Sustainable Woodlot Management: If you have access to a woodlot, manage it sustainably to ensure a continuous supply of firewood.
• Wood Type Optimization: Choose wood types that are well-suited for your needs.
• Efficient Processing Methods: Use efficient processing methods to minimize labor and maximize output.
• Proper Drying Techniques: Use proper drying techniques to ensure that your firewood is properly seasoned.
• Cost-Effective Solutions: Look for cost-effective solutions to reduce your overall costs.

Tactical Instructions:

• Felling a Tree:
  1. Assess the tree and surroundings.
  2. Plan your escape route.
  3. Make a notch cut.
  4. Make a back cut.
  5. Use a felling wedge if necessary.
  6. Fell the tree.
• Splitting Firewood:
  1. Place the log on a splitting block.
  2. Position the axe or maul on the log.
  3. Swing the axe or maul with force.
  4. Repeat until the log is split.
• Stacking Firewood:
  1. Choose a well-ventilated area.
  2. Elevate the firewood off the ground.
  3. Stack the firewood in a crisscross pattern or holz hausen style.
  4. Cover the firewood with a tarp.

Practical Next Steps and Implementation Guidance

Ready to put this knowledge into action? Here’s a step-by-step guide to get you started.

1. Assess Your Needs: Determine your firewood needs and the size of the trees you’ll be felling.
2. Choose a Chainsaw: Select a refurbished Husqvarna chainsaw that is the appropriate size and power for your needs. Use the assessment guide provided earlier.
3. Gather Your Tools: Gather the necessary tools, including an axe or maul, safety gear, and a moisture meter.
4. Learn Felling Techniques: Learn proper felling techniques from a qualified instructor or experienced arborist.
5. Practice Safe Chainsaw Operation: Practice safe chainsaw operation in a controlled environment.
6. Process Your Wood: Fell, buck, split, and stack your firewood.
7. Dry Your Wood: Allow your firewood to dry for 6-12 months.
8. Enjoy Your Firewood: Burn your seasoned firewood and enjoy the warmth and ambiance of a wood fire.

Final Thoughts:

A refurbished Husqvarna chainsaw can be a valuable tool for wood processing and firewood preparation. By following the tips and techniques outlined in this guide, you can choose a quality refurbished saw, maximize its performance and longevity, and process your own firewood safely and efficiently. Remember to prioritize safety, maintain your equipment, and practice sustainable woodlot management. Happy cutting!

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