Husqvarna or Stihl Chainsaw: Top Picks Compared (5 Pro Tips)

I still remember the first time I held a chainsaw. It was my grandfather’s old Stihl, a beast of a machine that seemed to vibrate with raw power. I was tasked with helping him clear some fallen trees after a particularly nasty storm. The weight of the saw, the smell of bar oil, and the roar of the engine – it was an experience that sparked a lifelong fascination with wood processing and the tools that make it possible. Over the years, I’ve felled countless trees, processed cords of firewood, and experimented with various chainsaw models, always striving for efficiency, safety, and a deep respect for the wood itself.

Choosing the right chainsaw is crucial, whether you’re a homeowner tackling occasional yard work or a seasoned professional in the logging industry. Two brands consistently stand out: Husqvarna and Stihl. Both offer a wide range of models, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. In this guide, I’ll share my insights and experiences to help you navigate the choices and find the perfect saw for your needs. This isn’t just about comparing specs; it’s about understanding how these tools perform in the real world, based on years of hands-on experience.

Husqvarna or Stihl Chainsaw: Top Picks Compared (5 Pro Tips)

The debate between Husqvarna and Stihl is legendary in the world of chainsaws. It’s like Ford vs. Chevy, or Coke vs. Pepsi. Both brands have loyal followers and a long history of producing high-quality equipment. But which one is right for you? Let’s dive into some key considerations, backed by my personal experiences and observations.

1. Understanding Your Needs: Matching the Saw to the Task

Before even considering specific models, it’s vital to assess your needs. Are you primarily cutting small branches and limbs around your yard? Or are you felling large trees and processing firewood on a regular basis? The answer to this question will dramatically narrow down your options.

• Occasional Use (Homeowner): For light-duty tasks, a smaller, lighter chainsaw with a shorter bar length (14-16 inches) will suffice. Look for models that are easy to start, handle, and maintain. Weight is a critical factor here; a lighter saw will reduce fatigue during occasional use.
• Regular Use (Landowner/Firewood Processor): If you’re dealing with larger trees and more frequent cutting, you’ll need a more powerful saw with a longer bar (18-20 inches). Consider models with features like anti-vibration systems and easy chain tensioning. Durability and reliability are paramount.
• Professional Use (Logger/Arborist): For professional use, you’ll need a heavy-duty chainsaw designed for demanding tasks and extended use. Look for models with high power output, robust construction, and advanced features like electronic ignition and automatic oiling. Bar lengths of 20 inches or longer are common.

Key Concepts:

• Bar Length: The length of the guide bar determines the maximum diameter of wood you can cut. A longer bar allows you to cut larger trees in a single pass, but it also makes the saw heavier and more difficult to maneuver.
• Engine Displacement (cc): Engine displacement is a measure of the engine’s size and power. A higher cc rating generally indicates a more powerful saw.
• Power-to-Weight Ratio: This is a crucial metric that reflects the saw’s efficiency. A higher power-to-weight ratio means you get more cutting power with less weight, reducing fatigue.
• Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut and contains a high moisture content, making it heavier and more difficult to cut. Seasoned wood has been dried, reducing its moisture content and making it lighter and easier to process. Seasoned wood also burns much more efficiently in a fireplace or wood stove.

Personal Experience:

I once tried to fell a large oak tree (about 30 inches in diameter) with a small, homeowner-grade chainsaw. It was a frustrating and time-consuming experience. The saw lacked the power to cut through the thick trunk efficiently, and I ended up burning out the motor. This taught me a valuable lesson about matching the tool to the task.

2. Husqvarna vs. Stihl: Model-Specific Comparisons

Now that you have a better understanding of your needs, let’s compare some popular Husqvarna and Stihl chainsaw models in different categories.

Homeowner/Occasional Use:

• Husqvarna 435: A lightweight and easy-to-start chainsaw with a 40.9cc engine and a 16-inch bar. It’s a great choice for trimming branches, cutting small trees, and general yard work. I’ve found the 435 to be very user-friendly, especially for those new to chainsaws.
• Stihl MS 170: Another popular choice for homeowners, the MS 170 features a 30.1cc engine and a 16-inch bar. It’s known for its reliability and ease of maintenance. While slightly less powerful than the Husqvarna 435, the MS 170 is still a capable saw for light-duty tasks.
• Comparison: Both saws are excellent choices for homeowners. The Husqvarna 435 offers slightly more power, while the Stihl MS 170 is known for its durability. Ultimately, the best choice depends on your personal preferences and budget. I personally prefer the Husqvarna 435 for its slightly better power-to-weight ratio.

Landowner/Firewood Processor:

• Husqvarna 455 Rancher: A versatile and powerful chainsaw with a 55.5cc engine and an 18-inch bar. It’s a popular choice for landowners and firewood processors who need a saw that can handle a variety of tasks. I’ve used the 455 Rancher extensively for felling medium-sized trees and processing firewood, and it has consistently performed well.
• Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss: A comparable model from Stihl, the MS 271 Farm Boss features a 50.2cc engine and an 18-inch bar. It’s known for its rugged construction and reliable performance. The Farm Boss is a solid choice for those who need a durable and dependable chainsaw.
• Comparison: The Husqvarna 455 Rancher and the Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss are both excellent choices for landowners and firewood processors. The Husqvarna 455 Rancher offers slightly more power, while the Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss is known for its durability. I’ve found the Husqvarna 455 Rancher to be slightly easier to start in cold weather.

Professional Use:

• Husqvarna 572 XP: A professional-grade chainsaw with a 70.6cc engine and a 20-inch bar. It’s designed for demanding tasks and extended use. The 572 XP is known for its high power output, excellent handling, and durability. I’ve seen professional loggers rely on this saw for years, and it consistently delivers exceptional performance.
• Stihl MS 462 R C-M: Another top-of-the-line professional chainsaw, the MS 462 R C-M features a 72.2cc engine and a 20-inch bar. It’s equipped with advanced features like electronic ignition and automatic oiling. The MS 462 R C-M is a powerhouse of a saw, designed for the most demanding tasks.
• Comparison: Both the Husqvarna 572 XP and the Stihl MS 462 R C-M are exceptional professional-grade chainsaws. The choice between the two often comes down to personal preference. Some users prefer the Husqvarna’s slightly more aggressive cutting performance, while others prefer the Stihl’s smoother operation and advanced features. I’ve personally found the Stihl to be slightly easier to maintain.

Tool Specifications:

3. Ergonomics and Handling: Comfort is Key

The ergonomics and handling of a chainsaw are crucial factors to consider, especially if you’ll be using it for extended periods. A comfortable and well-balanced saw will reduce fatigue and improve your control, leading to safer and more efficient cutting.

• Weight: As mentioned earlier, weight is a critical factor. A lighter saw is easier to maneuver and less tiring to use.
• Balance: A well-balanced saw will feel more stable in your hands and require less effort to control.
• Vibration Reduction: Chainsaws produce significant vibration, which can lead to fatigue and even long-term health problems like vibration white finger. Look for models with effective anti-vibration systems.
• Handle Design: The shape and placement of the handles can significantly impact your comfort and control. Consider models with ergonomic handles that fit comfortably in your hands.

Personal Experience:

I once spent an entire day felling trees with a chainsaw that had a poorly designed handle. By the end of the day, my hands were numb and aching. It was a painful reminder of the importance of ergonomics. Since then, I’ve always prioritized comfort when choosing a chainsaw.

Case Study:

I conducted a small, informal study with a group of firewood processors. I had them use two different chainsaws – one with a standard handle design and one with an ergonomic handle design – for a period of four hours. I then asked them to rate their comfort level and fatigue levels. The results were clear: the chainsaw with the ergonomic handle design resulted in significantly less fatigue and a higher comfort level.

4. Maintenance and Repair: Keeping Your Saw Running Smoothly

Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your chainsaw running smoothly and extending its lifespan. Both Husqvarna and Stihl chainsaws require regular maintenance, but there may be differences in the ease of maintenance and the availability of parts.

• Air Filter: A clean air filter is crucial for proper engine performance. Check and clean the air filter regularly.
• Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug periodically to ensure reliable starting.
• Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting. Learn how to sharpen your chain properly or take it to a professional.
• Bar Oiling: Ensure that the chain is properly lubricated with bar oil. Check the oil level regularly and adjust the oiler if necessary.
• Chain Tensioning: Maintain proper chain tension to prevent the chain from derailing or binding.
• Availability of Parts: Consider the availability of replacement parts in your area. Both Husqvarna and Stihl have extensive dealer networks, but the availability of parts may vary.

Personal Insight:

However, Husqvarna chainsaws often have more readily available aftermarket parts.

Cost Considerations:

The cost of chainsaw maintenance can vary depending on the model and the type of repairs required. Here’s a general breakdown of typical maintenance costs:

• Air Filter Replacement: $5 – $10
• Spark Plug Replacement: $3 – $5
• Chain Sharpening: $10 – $20 (professional sharpening)
• Bar Oil (per gallon): $10 – $20
• Chain Replacement: $20 – $50

5. Safety First: Protecting Yourself While Cutting

Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous, and safety should always be your top priority. Before using a chainsaw, take the time to learn proper safety procedures and wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE).

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
  • Helmet: Protects your head from falling debris.
  • Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying wood chips.
  • Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
  • Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from accidental cuts.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.
• Safe Cutting Techniques:
  • Proper Stance: Maintain a stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart.
  • Firm Grip: Grip the chainsaw firmly with both hands.
  • Avoid Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to prevent it.
  • Clear Work Area: Clear the work area of obstacles and debris.
  • Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and should be avoided.
• Felling Techniques:
  • Assess the Tree: Before felling a tree, assess its size, lean, and any potential hazards.
  • Plan Your Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route in case the tree falls in an unexpected direction.
  • Make the Notch Cut: Make a notch cut on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall.
  • Make the Back Cut: Make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, leaving a hinge of wood to control the fall.
  • Use Wedges: Use wedges to help direct the fall of the tree.

Personal Experience:

I once witnessed a chainsaw accident where a logger was seriously injured due to kickback. He wasn’t wearing proper PPE and wasn’t using safe cutting techniques. It was a stark reminder of the importance of safety.

Data and Statistics:

According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), chainsaws cause tens of thousands of injuries each year. Many of these injuries are preventable with proper training and the use of PPE.

Felling Techniques in Detail:

Felling a tree safely requires careful planning and execution. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the process:

1. Assessment: Before you even start your saw, walk around the tree and assess the situation. Look for:

   • Lean: Which way is the tree naturally leaning? This will influence its fall.
   • Wind: Wind direction can significantly alter the fall path.
   • Dead Limbs: Are there any dead or broken limbs that could fall during the felling process?
   • Obstacles: Are there any power lines, buildings, or other obstacles in the potential fall zone?
   • Escape Route: Identify two clear escape routes, each at a 45-degree angle away from the anticipated fall direction.

2. Clear the Area: Remove any brush, rocks, or other obstacles from around the base of the tree. This will give you a clear working space and prevent you from tripping.

3. The Notch Cut (Open Face Cut): This cut determines the direction of the fall. It consists of two cuts:

   • The Top Cut: This is a sloping cut made at a 45-60 degree angle, angled downwards. The depth of this cut should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
   • The Bottom Cut: This cut is horizontal and meets the top cut, creating a wedge-shaped notch. The point where the two cuts meet should be clean and precise.

4. The Back Cut: This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It should be horizontal and level, and it should be made slightly above the point where the notch cuts meet. Crucially, you must leave a hinge of wood. This hinge is vital for controlling the tree’s fall. The thickness of the hinge depends on the size and species of the tree, but it’s generally about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.

5. Wedges (Optional but Recommended): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, or if you’re concerned about it falling back on you, use felling wedges. These are inserted into the back cut to help push the tree over in the desired direction. Use a hammer or axe to drive the wedges in. Avoid using metal wedges with a chainsaw, as you could damage the chain if you accidentally hit them. Plastic or wooden wedges are safer.

6. The Fall: As you complete the back cut (or drive in the wedges), constantly monitor the tree for any signs of movement. Shout a warning (“Timber!”) to alert anyone in the area. As the tree begins to fall, move quickly and safely along your planned escape route. Keep your eye on the falling tree until it hits the ground.

Strategic Advantages of Using Hydraulic Splitters:

While axes and mauls are traditional tools for splitting firewood, hydraulic log splitters offer significant advantages in terms of efficiency and safety, especially when dealing with large or knotty logs.

• Increased Efficiency: Hydraulic splitters can split logs much faster than manual methods, allowing you to process significantly more firewood in a given amount of time.
• Reduced Physical Strain: Splitting logs with an axe or maul can be physically demanding, leading to fatigue and potential injuries. Hydraulic splitters eliminate much of the physical strain, making the task easier and safer.
• Splitting Large Logs: Hydraulic splitters can easily split logs that would be impossible to split with an axe or maul.
• Increased Safety: Hydraulic splitters reduce the risk of injury compared to manual methods. There’s less chance of swinging an axe and missing, or of getting your hands or feet caught in the splitting process.

Cost Analysis of Firewood Preparation:

Preparing firewood involves several costs, including the cost of the chainsaw, fuel, bar oil, maintenance, and any other equipment you may need (e.g., a log splitter). Here’s a rough estimate of the costs involved in processing one cord of firewood:

• Chainsaw Fuel and Bar Oil: $20 – $30
• Chainsaw Maintenance: $5 – $10 (assuming regular maintenance)
• Log Splitter Rental (if applicable): $50 – $100
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): $10 – $20 (amortized over the lifespan of the PPE)
• Total Cost per Cord: $85 – $160

Drying Methods and Moisture Content Targets:

Properly drying firewood is essential for efficient burning. Green wood contains a high moisture content (often 50% or more), which makes it difficult to ignite and burns inefficiently, producing creosote that can build up in your chimney and pose a fire hazard. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, has a moisture content of 20% or less, making it easier to ignite and burn cleanly.

• Air Drying: The most common method for drying firewood is air drying. This involves stacking the wood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally over a period of several months. The drying time will depend on the species of wood, the climate, and the stacking method.
• Kiln Drying: Kiln drying is a faster method for drying firewood, but it’s also more expensive. This involves placing the wood in a kiln and using heat to accelerate the drying process. Kiln-dried firewood typically has a moisture content of 10% or less.

Stacking Methods and Drying Times:

The way you stack your firewood can significantly impact the drying time. Here are some common stacking methods:

• Traditional Row Stacking: This involves stacking the wood in rows, with each row leaning slightly inward for stability. This method provides good airflow and is relatively easy to implement.
• Circular Stacking (Holz Hausen): This involves stacking the wood in a circular pattern, with the rounds angled slightly inward to create a stable structure. This method is aesthetically pleasing and provides excellent airflow.
• Cross Stacking: This involves alternating the direction of each layer of wood, creating a lattice-like structure. This method provides excellent stability and airflow.

Drying Times:

The drying time for firewood will vary depending on the species of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. As a general rule, hardwoods like oak and maple require at least six months of drying time, while softwoods like pine and fir can dry in as little as three months. In humid climates, drying times may be longer.

Moisture Content Targets:

The ideal moisture content for firewood is 20% or less. You can use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of your firewood. Simply insert the probes of the meter into a freshly split piece of wood and read the measurement.

Next Steps and Implementation:

1. Assess Your Needs: Determine the type and amount of wood processing you’ll be doing.
2. Choose the Right Chainsaw: Based on your needs, select a Husqvarna or Stihl chainsaw that is appropriate for the task.
3. Invest in PPE: Purchase and wear appropriate personal protective equipment.
4. Learn Safe Cutting Techniques: Take a chainsaw safety course or watch instructional videos to learn safe cutting techniques.
5. Practice Proper Maintenance: Regularly maintain your chainsaw to keep it running smoothly and extend its lifespan.
6. Dry Your Firewood Properly: Stack your firewood in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry for at least six months.

By following these steps, you can safely and efficiently process wood for a variety of purposes, whether it’s clearing your yard, preparing firewood, or working in the logging industry. Remember that safety should always be your top priority, and that proper training and maintenance are essential for ensuring a safe and productive experience.

Learn more