Husqvarna 592 XP 36 Inch Bar Guide (5 Pro Tips for Precision)

It was a crisp autumn morning in the Pacific Northwest, the kind that bites at your cheeks and makes you appreciate the smell of burning wood. I was helping a friend, a seasoned logger named Hank, fell a particularly stubborn Douglas fir. Hank, a man who could probably sharpen a chain with his eyes closed, was having trouble getting a clean, accurate cut. “This old saw just ain’t got the guts anymore,” he grumbled, wiping sweat from his brow. That day, I learned the hard way how crucial the right tool, and the right setup, is for precision work. It wasn’t just about power; it was about control, accuracy, and understanding the machine. Fast forward a few years, and I’ve become quite familiar with the Husqvarna 592 XP, especially the 36-inch bar version. It’s a beast, no doubt, but a precise one. This guide is born from those experiences, the successes, and the frustrating lessons learned, all distilled into five pro tips to help you master this saw for truly precise cuts.

Husqvarna 592 XP 36 Inch Bar Guide: 5 Pro Tips for Precision

The Husqvarna 592 XP with a 36-inch bar is a serious piece of equipment. It’s designed for felling large trees and processing hefty timber. However, its power and size can be a double-edged sword. Without the right technique and understanding, you can quickly find yourself wrestling with the saw, producing inaccurate cuts, and risking serious injury. These five pro tips will help you tame the beast and unlock its precision potential.

1. Mastering Chain Tension and Sharpness: The Foundation of Precision

I cannot stress this enough: chain tension and sharpness are paramount. Think of it like this: a dull or loose chain is like trying to carve a sculpture with a butter knife. You’ll get nowhere fast, and what you do get will be ugly.

• Chain Tension: The correct chain tension is critical for smooth, accurate cutting and chain longevity. A chain that’s too tight will cause excessive wear on the bar and sprocket, while a chain that’s too loose will increase the risk of kickback and produce a wandering cut.

  • How to Check: With the saw off and the bar facing up, lift the chain in the middle of the bar. You should be able to pull it away from the bar approximately 1/8 inch (3mm).
  • Adjustment: Use the chain tensioning screw on the side of the saw to adjust the tension. Tighten to increase tension, loosen to decrease. Always check the tension after the first few cuts, as the chain will stretch as it warms up.
  • Pro Tip: I always carry a small screwdriver specifically for chain tension adjustment. It saves time and frustration in the field.

  • Chain Sharpness: A sharp chain bites into the wood with minimal pressure, resulting in a smooth, controlled cut. A dull chain requires you to force the saw, leading to inaccurate cuts, increased vibration, and potential kickback.

  • Signs of a Dull Chain: The saw produces fine sawdust instead of chips, you have to apply significant pressure to make the saw cut, the cut is uneven, or the saw vibrates excessively.
  • Sharpening: Learn to sharpen your chain with a file and guide. A properly sharpened chain will have consistent cutter angles and depths.
  • File Size: For the 592 XP with a 36-inch bar and a typical .375″ pitch chain, I recommend a 7/32″ (5.5mm) round file.
  • Filing Angle: Maintain the factory-recommended top plate angle (typically 30-35 degrees) and side plate angle (typically 60 degrees).
  • Depth Gauges: Don’t forget to file the depth gauges (rakers) after sharpening the cutters. Lower depth gauges allow the cutters to take a bigger bite, but too low and the saw will be aggressive and prone to kickback. A depth gauge setting of .025″ (.64mm) is a good starting point for general use.
  • Pro Tip: I use a chain grinder for quick and consistent sharpening, especially after hitting dirt or metal. It’s an investment, but it pays off in time and efficiency.
  • Data Point: A study by the University of Maine found that using a dull chain increased cutting time by up to 50% and fuel consumption by 20%.

2. Bar Maintenance and Lubrication: Preventing Premature Wear

The bar is the backbone of your cutting operation. Neglecting it will lead to premature wear, decreased performance, and potentially dangerous situations. Proper maintenance and lubrication are key.

• Bar Cleaning: Regularly clean the bar groove with a bar groove cleaner or a thin, flat screwdriver. Debris buildup in the groove prevents proper chain lubrication and can cause the chain to bind.
• Bar Rail Dressing: Inspect the bar rails for wear and burrs. Use a bar rail dressing tool to file down any imperfections and ensure a smooth, even surface for the chain to ride on.
• Bar Flipping: Flip the bar periodically (every few chain sharpenings) to distribute wear evenly. This extends the life of the bar.

• Lubrication: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil. The 592 XP has an adjustable oil pump, so make sure it’s set to deliver adequate lubrication based on the wood type and cutting conditions.

  • Oil Flow Adjustment: Adjust the oil flow using the screw located near the base of the bar. Turn clockwise to increase oil flow, counter-clockwise to decrease.
  • Oil Consumption: Monitor oil consumption to ensure adequate lubrication. You should use approximately one tank of oil for every tank of fuel.
  • Oil Type: I prefer using a synthetic bar and chain oil, especially in cold weather. It flows better and provides superior lubrication.
  • Pro Tip: I always check the oiler hole on the bar to make sure it’s clear of debris. A clogged oiler hole can starve the chain of lubrication, leading to rapid wear and potential bar failure.
  • Data Point: According to Husqvarna, proper bar lubrication can extend bar life by up to 30%.

3. Mastering Cutting Techniques: The Art of Controlled Felling

The 592 XP with a 36-inch bar is powerful enough to handle large trees, but power alone isn’t enough. Mastering proper cutting techniques is essential for safe and accurate felling and bucking.

• Felling Cuts:

  • Undercut: The undercut is the most critical cut in felling. It determines the direction of the fall.
    • Hinge: Aim for a hinge that’s approximately 80% of the bar width. This provides adequate control during the fall.
    • Depth: The depth of the undercut should be approximately 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
    • Angle: The angle of the undercut should be approximately 45 degrees.
  • Back Cut: The back cut should be made slightly above the undercut, leaving a hinge of sufficient thickness to control the fall.
    • Avoiding Pinching: Use wedges to prevent the bar from pinching in the back cut.
    • Hinge Wood: Never cut through the hinge wood. This is what controls the direction of the fall.
  • Pro Tip: I always use a felling lever or wedges to help direct the fall, especially with larger trees.

• Bucking Cuts:

  • Tension and Compression: Understanding tension and compression is crucial for safe and efficient bucking.
    • Tension: Wood under tension wants to pull apart.
    • Compression: Wood under compression wants to squeeze together.
  • Cutting Strategies:
    • Top Cut: When the log is supported at both ends, start with a top cut to relieve tension.
    • Bottom Cut: When the log is supported in the middle, start with a bottom cut to relieve compression.
  • Pro Tip: I always use a log jack to lift logs off the ground for easier and safer bucking.

• Boring Cut: Using the boring cut technique carefully is essential for felling large trees and managing difficult situations.

  • Starting the Bore: Ensure the chain is at full speed before carefully inserting the bar nose into the wood. Use the bumper spikes for leverage.
  • Controlling Depth: Maintain a steady hand and be aware of the bar tip position inside the wood.
  • Avoiding Kickback: Be extremely cautious to avoid kickback when using the boring cut. Keep the nose of the bar away from obstructions.
  • Pro Tip: I use the boring cut mainly to create a hinge on larger trees or to remove sections of a log that are under tension.

• Data Point: A study by the Forest Resources Association found that proper felling techniques can reduce the risk of accidents by up to 40%.

4. Understanding Wood Properties: Matching the Saw to the Material

Wood isn’t just wood. Different species have different densities, grain patterns, and moisture contents, all of which affect how the saw cuts. Understanding these properties is essential for achieving precise cuts and preventing damage to the saw.

• Hardwoods vs. Softwoods:

  • Hardwoods: Generally denser and harder to cut than softwoods. Examples include oak, maple, and beech.
    • Cutting Considerations: Require a sharper chain and more aggressive cutting technique.
  • Softwoods: Generally less dense and easier to cut than hardwoods. Examples include pine, fir, and spruce.
    • Cutting Considerations: Can be cut with a less aggressive cutting technique, but require more frequent chain sharpening due to the resin content.

  • Moisture Content:

  • Freshly Cut Wood: Has a high moisture content, making it heavier and more difficult to cut.

  • Dry Wood: Has a lower moisture content, making it lighter and easier to cut.
    • Cutting Considerations: Dry wood can be abrasive and dull the chain quickly.
  • Firewood: Should have a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.
  • Measuring Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to accurately measure the moisture content of the wood.
  • Pro Tip: I always adjust my cutting technique based on the wood species and moisture content. For example, when cutting dry hardwood, I use a slower, more controlled cutting speed to prevent overheating the chain.
  • Data Point: A study by the USDA Forest Service found that wood strength decreases significantly as moisture content increases.

5. Calibration and Fine-Tuning: Optimizing Performance

The Husqvarna 592 XP is a high-performance machine, but it requires periodic calibration and fine-tuning to maintain optimal performance.

• Carburetor Adjustment: The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture. Proper adjustment is essential for smooth idling, acceleration, and power output.

  • Idle Speed: Adjust the idle speed screw so that the chain does not move when the saw is idling.
  • High-Speed Needle: Adjust the high-speed needle for maximum power without causing the engine to bog down or overheat.
  • Low-Speed Needle: Adjust the low-speed needle for smooth acceleration and a clean idle.
  • Professional Tuning: I always recommend having a qualified technician tune the carburetor, especially if you’re not familiar with the process.
  • Altitude Adjustments: Remember that altitude affects carburetor settings. You may need to adjust the carburetor if you’re working at different elevations.
  • Pro Tip: I use a tachometer to accurately measure engine RPM during carburetor adjustment. This ensures that the engine is running within its optimal operating range.
  • Spark Arrestor Screen: Clean the spark arrestor screen regularly to prevent exhaust backpressure, which can reduce power and cause overheating.
  • Air Filter: Keep the air filter clean to ensure proper airflow to the engine. A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and cause the engine to run poorly.
  • Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture (typically 50:1) with high-quality two-stroke oil.
  • Data Point: According to Husqvarna, proper carburetor adjustment can improve fuel efficiency by up to 10% and extend engine life.

Safety First: A Non-Negotiable Requirement

Operating a chainsaw is inherently dangerous. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including:

• Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
• Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from flying wood chips.
• Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
• Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
• Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.

Beyond the gear, know your surroundings. Be aware of potential hazards such as overhead power lines, uneven terrain, and bystanders. Never operate a chainsaw when you’re tired or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

Conclusion: Precision Through Practice

Mastering the Husqvarna 592 XP with a 36-inch bar takes time and practice. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get it right away. Start with smaller projects and gradually work your way up to larger ones. The key is to focus on the fundamentals: chain tension, sharpness, bar maintenance, cutting techniques, and wood properties. And above all, always prioritize safety. With patience, dedication, and these five pro tips, you’ll be able to harness the power of this saw and achieve truly precise cuts. Remember Hank, my logger friend? He eventually traded in his old saw for a new 592 XP. The next time I saw him, he was making cuts so clean, you could shave with them. That’s the power of the right tool, properly maintained, and wielded with skill.

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