Husqvarna 55 Rebuild Kit Guide (3 Pro Tips for Top Performance)

Husqvarna 55 Rebuild Kit Guide (3 Pro Tips for Top Performance)

I’ve spent a good chunk of my life wrestling with chainsaws, from felling towering oaks to simply clearing brush around my property. And let me tell you, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as breathing new life into an old workhorse. The Husqvarna 55 is a true classic, known for its reliability and power. However, like any machine, it eventually needs some TLC. That’s where a rebuild kit comes in.

This guide is designed to make the Husqvarna 55 rebuild process as straightforward as possible. I’ll walk you through the key steps, share some pro tips I’ve learned over the years, and help you get your saw running like new. Don’t be intimidated; even if you’re not a seasoned mechanic, with a little patience and the right guidance, you can tackle this project. Let’s dive in and get that Husqvarna 55 roaring again!

Why Rebuild Your Husqvarna 55?

Before we get our hands dirty, let’s understand why a rebuild is necessary. Chainsaws, especially those used frequently, endure a lot of stress. The engine components wear down over time, leading to reduced performance, starting problems, or even complete failure. Here are some common signs that your Husqvarna 55 might be due for a rebuild:

• Loss of Power: The saw struggles to cut through wood, even with a sharp chain.
• Difficult Starting: You have to pull the starter cord repeatedly, and the engine sputters but doesn’t catch.
• Excessive Smoke: The exhaust emits a lot of blue or black smoke, indicating oil burning.
• Unusual Noises: Knocking, rattling, or grinding sounds coming from the engine.
• Low Compression: A compression test reveals that the engine isn’t building enough pressure.

Ignoring these symptoms can lead to more significant and costly damage. A rebuild kit provides all the necessary parts to replace worn components and restore your chainsaw to its original performance. And, let’s be honest, there’s a certain satisfaction in knowing you’ve saved a perfectly good machine from the scrap heap.

Choosing the Right Rebuild Kit

Not all rebuild kits are created equal. You’ll find a variety of options online, ranging from budget-friendly to premium kits. Here’s what I look for when selecting a rebuild kit for my Husqvarna 55:

• OEM vs. Aftermarket: Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts are made by Husqvarna and are guaranteed to meet the exact specifications of your saw. Aftermarket parts can be cheaper, but the quality can vary. I generally prefer OEM parts for critical components like the piston, cylinder, and crankshaft bearings. For less critical parts, like gaskets and seals, reputable aftermarket brands can be a good option.
• Kit Contents: Make sure the kit includes all the parts you need for a complete rebuild. A typical kit should include:
  • Piston
  • Piston rings
  • Wrist pin
  • Wrist pin bearings/clips
  • Cylinder
  • Crankshaft bearings
  • Seals (crankshaft, oil pump)
  • Gaskets (cylinder base, carburetor, muffler)
  • Spark plug
  • Fuel filter
  • Air filter
• Customer Reviews: Read reviews from other users to get an idea of the kit’s quality and performance. Pay attention to comments about fitment, durability, and customer support.
• Price: Consider your budget, but don’t sacrifice quality for price. A cheap kit with low-quality parts might end up costing you more in the long run.

Real-World Example: I once tried to save a few bucks by buying a super-cheap rebuild kit for a Husqvarna 55 I was fixing up for a friend. The piston rings were slightly undersized, leading to low compression and poor performance. I ended up having to buy a new set of rings anyway, negating any initial savings. Lesson learned: quality matters!

Essential Tools and Supplies

Before you start tearing down your chainsaw, make sure you have all the necessary tools and supplies on hand. This will save you time and frustration. Here’s a list of what I recommend:

• Basic Hand Tools: Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips), wrenches (metric), pliers, sockets (metric), Allen wrenches.
• Specialized Tools:
  • Piston stop tool: Prevents the piston from moving while you remove the clutch and flywheel.
  • Piston ring compressor: Helps you install the piston into the cylinder.
  • Impulse line hook: A small bent tool to help pull the impulse line.
  • Crankcase splitter (optional): Makes separating the crankcase halves easier, but not always necessary.
  • Flywheel puller (optional): If the flywheel is stuck, you might need a puller to remove it.
• Cleaning Supplies: Parts cleaner, carburetor cleaner, shop rags, brushes.
• Lubricants: Two-stroke oil, grease, threadlocker (Loctite).
• Safety Gear: Safety glasses, gloves.
• Camera or Phone: Take photos as you disassemble the saw to help you remember how everything goes back together.
• Manual: It helps to have a repair manual that shows the parts assembly.

Pro Tip: Invest in a good set of metric sockets and wrenches. Chainsaws use metric fasteners, and having the right tools will make the job much easier and prevent you from stripping bolt heads.

The Rebuild Process: Step-by-Step

Now, let’s get to the heart of the matter: the rebuild itself. I’ll break down the process into manageable steps, with plenty of tips and tricks along the way.

1. Disassembly:

• Preparation: Disconnect the spark plug wire for safety. Clean the exterior of the saw to prevent dirt from entering the engine. Drain the fuel and oil tanks.
• Removing the External Components:
  • Remove the air filter cover and air filter.
  • Remove the muffler.
  • Remove the carburetor. Carefully disconnect the fuel lines and impulse line. Take note of their positions.
  • Remove the intake manifold.
  • Remove the starter assembly.
  • Remove the flywheel. Use a flywheel puller if necessary.
  • Remove the ignition coil.
  • Remove the clutch. Use a piston stop tool to prevent the crankshaft from turning.
  • Remove the oil pump.
• Removing the Cylinder and Piston:
  • Remove the cylinder bolts.
  • Carefully lift off the cylinder.
  • Remove the piston. Use a small screwdriver or pick to remove the wrist pin clips.
• Splitting the Crankcase (If Necessary): This step is only necessary if you’re replacing the crankshaft bearings.
  • Remove all the bolts holding the crankcase halves together.
  • Use a crankcase splitter tool to separate the halves. If you don’t have a splitter, you can try gently tapping the crankcase halves with a rubber mallet, but be careful not to damage them.

2. Inspection and Cleaning:

• Inspect all parts for wear and damage. Pay close attention to the cylinder, piston, crankshaft, and bearings. Look for scratches, cracks, or excessive wear.
• Clean all parts thoroughly with parts cleaner. Remove any dirt, grease, or carbon deposits.
• Check the crankshaft bearings for play. If the bearings feel loose or rough, they need to be replaced.
• Check the cylinder for scoring. Minor scoring can be honed out, but deep scoring indicates that the cylinder needs to be replaced.

3. Reassembly:

• Installing the Crankshaft Bearings (If Necessary):
  • Heat the crankcase halves in an oven to around 200°F (93°C). This will expand the metal and make it easier to install the bearings.
  • Use a bearing driver or socket to press the new bearings into the crankcase halves.
  • Allow the crankcase halves to cool before reassembling them.
• Assembling the Crankcase:
  • Apply a thin layer of sealant to the crankcase mating surfaces.
  • Carefully align the crankcase halves and bolt them together.
  • Torque the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Installing the Piston:
  • Install one wrist pin clip into the piston.
  • Lubricate the wrist pin bearing with two-stroke oil.
  • Slide the piston onto the connecting rod and insert the wrist pin.
  • Install the other wrist pin clip.
  • Make sure the piston rings are properly oriented. The ring gaps should be staggered.
  • Use a piston ring compressor to compress the piston rings.
• Installing the Cylinder:
  • Install a new cylinder base gasket.
  • Carefully slide the cylinder over the piston, making sure the piston rings don’t catch on the cylinder ports.
  • Install the cylinder bolts and torque them to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Reinstalling the External Components:
  • Reinstall the oil pump.
  • Reinstall the clutch. Use a piston stop tool to prevent the crankshaft from turning.
  • Reinstall the ignition coil.
  • Reinstall the flywheel.
  • Reinstall the starter assembly.
  • Reinstall the intake manifold.
  • Reinstall the carburetor. Connect the fuel lines and impulse line.
  • Reinstall the muffler.
  • Reinstall the air filter cover and air filter.

4. Testing and Tuning:

• Install a new spark plug.
• Fill the fuel and oil tanks.
• Start the chainsaw. It might take a few pulls to get it started after a rebuild.
• Adjust the carburetor. Use a tachometer to ensure the engine is running at the correct RPM. Refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for the correct settings.
• Check for leaks. Inspect all fuel lines, oil lines, and gaskets for leaks.

Pro Tip: When installing the piston rings, make sure the ring gaps are staggered. This will prevent compression leakage. I like to position the ring gaps 120 degrees apart.

3 Pro Tips for Top Performance

Okay, now for the real gold: my top three pro tips for maximizing the performance of your rebuilt Husqvarna 55.

1. Perfecting the Carburetor Tune:

A properly tuned carburetor is crucial for optimal performance and engine longevity. After the rebuild, don’t just set it and forget it. Here’s what I do:

• Start with the Basics: Refer to your Husqvarna 55’s manual for the factory carburetor settings. These are a good starting point.
• Listen to the Engine: The sound of the engine tells you a lot. If it’s sputtering or hesitating, it’s likely running too lean (not enough fuel). If it’s bogging down and producing excessive smoke, it’s likely running too rich (too much fuel).
• Use a Tachometer: A tachometer is essential for precise tuning. Adjust the high (H) and low (L) speed screws until the engine reaches the recommended RPM at full throttle. The Husqvarna 55 typically runs around 12,500-13,000 RPM.
• Adjust the Idle Speed: Adjust the idle speed screw until the chain stops moving when the engine is idling.
• Fine-Tune Based on Conditions: Temperature, altitude, and humidity can all affect carburetor performance. Be prepared to make minor adjustments as needed.

Data Point: A study by the Equipment Engine Training Council (EETC) found that a properly tuned carburetor can improve fuel efficiency by up to 15% and reduce emissions by up to 20%.

2. The Importance of Break-In:

A new piston and cylinder need a break-in period to properly seat the rings and ensure optimal compression. Don’t just go out and start cutting down trees right away. Here’s my break-in procedure:

• Initial Start-Up: Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes.
• Vary the RPM: Gradually increase the RPM, but avoid running the engine at full throttle for extended periods.
• Short Cuts: Make a few short cuts through softwood, allowing the engine to cool down between cuts.
• Check Compression: After the break-in period (about one tank of fuel), check the compression. It should be within the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Adjust Carburetor (Again): The carburetor might need to be readjusted after the break-in period.

Personal Story: I once skipped the break-in period on a rebuilt chainsaw, and the engine started smoking excessively after only a few hours of use. The piston rings hadn’t seated properly, leading to oil burning. I had to tear down the engine and replace the rings. Learn from my mistake!

3. Fuel and Oil: The Lifeblood of Your Saw:

Using the right fuel and oil is critical for the longevity of your Husqvarna 55. Here’s what I recommend:

• Fuel: Use fresh, high-quality gasoline with an octane rating of at least 89. Avoid using old or stale fuel, as it can damage the carburetor and engine.
• Oil: Use a high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines. I prefer synthetic oils, as they provide better lubrication and reduce carbon buildup.
• Mixing Ratio: Follow the manufacturer’s recommended mixing ratio (typically 50:1). Using too much oil can lead to excessive smoke and carbon buildup, while using too little oil can cause engine damage.
• Fuel Stabilizer: If you’re not going to be using your chainsaw for an extended period, add a fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank. This will prevent the fuel from breaking down and clogging the carburetor.

Wood Science Insight: The type of wood you’re cutting can also affect engine performance. Cutting hardwoods like oak or maple requires more power than cutting softwoods like pine or fir. Make sure your chainsaw is properly tuned for the type of wood you’re cutting.

Wood Anatomy and Properties: A Quick Primer

Understanding the basics of wood anatomy and properties can significantly improve your chainsaw skills and wood processing efficiency.

• Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods come from deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall), while softwoods come from coniferous trees (trees that have needles and cones). Hardwoods are generally denser and more durable than softwoods.
• Grain: The grain of wood refers to the direction of the wood fibers. Cutting with the grain is easier than cutting against the grain.
• Moisture Content: The moisture content of wood affects its weight, strength, and fuel value. Green wood (freshly cut wood) has a high moisture content, while seasoned wood (wood that has been dried) has a low moisture content.
• Density: The density of wood affects its weight and strength. Dense woods like oak and maple are stronger and more durable than less dense woods like pine and poplar.

Data Point: According to the USDA Forest Service, the moisture content of green wood can range from 30% to over 200%, while the moisture content of seasoned wood is typically around 20%.

Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance Best Practices

Beyond the chainsaw, other logging tools can greatly enhance your wood processing capabilities. Here’s a quick overview:

• Axes and Hatchets: Useful for splitting small logs and kindling. Choose a high-quality axe with a sharp blade and a comfortable handle.
• Splitting Mauls: Designed for splitting larger logs. A heavy maul with a wide head is ideal for tough wood.
• Wedges: Used to split logs that are too large or knotty to split with an axe or maul. Steel wedges are more durable than wooden wedges.
• Cant Hooks and Log Lifters: Used to move and position logs. A cant hook has a pivoting hook that grips the log, while a log lifter has a fixed hook.
• Measuring Tools: A measuring tape and a marking crayon are essential for cutting logs to the desired length.

Maintenance Best Practices:

• Keep your tools clean and sharp. A dull tool is not only less efficient but also more dangerous.
• Store your tools in a dry place. Moisture can cause rust and corrosion.
• Inspect your tools regularly for damage. Replace any damaged tools immediately.

Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations

Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter and cleaner than green wood. Here are some tips for seasoning firewood:

• Split the wood: Splitting the wood increases the surface area exposed to air, which speeds up the drying process.
• Stack the wood: Stack the wood in a single row, with gaps between the pieces for air circulation.
• Elevate the wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil.
• Cover the wood: Cover the top of the wood pile with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
• Allow plenty of time: Firewood typically takes 6-12 months to season properly.

Safety Considerations:

• Wear safety glasses and gloves when splitting wood.
• Use a safe splitting technique. Keep your feet shoulder-width apart and swing the axe or maul with a controlled motion.
• Be aware of your surroundings. Make sure there are no people or obstacles in your swing path.

Project Planning and Execution

Before you start any wood processing project, it’s important to plan ahead. Here are some tips for project planning and execution:

• Assess your needs: Determine how much firewood you need and what types of wood you want to process.
• Choose the right tools: Select the appropriate tools for the job.
• Prepare your workspace: Clear the area of any obstacles and make sure you have plenty of room to work.
• Follow safety precautions: Wear safety glasses, gloves, and other protective gear.
• Work at a comfortable pace: Don’t try to rush the job.
• Clean up after yourself: Remove any debris and store your tools properly.

Hardwood vs. Softwood: A Detailed Comparison

Data Point: Oak firewood has a BTU rating of approximately 28 million BTUs per cord, while pine firewood has a BTU rating of approximately 20 million BTUs per cord.

Manual vs. Hydraulic Splitters: Which is Right for You?

Case Study: A small-scale firewood producer in Vermont switched from a manual splitter to a hydraulic splitter and increased their production by 50%.

Conclusion: Rebuilding for the Long Haul

Rebuilding a Husqvarna 55 isn’t just about fixing a broken machine; it’s about understanding the mechanics of your equipment, honing your problem-solving skills, and extending the life of a valuable tool. By following these steps and incorporating my pro tips, you’ll not only get your chainsaw running like new but also gain a deeper appreciation for the art of wood processing.

Remember, patience and attention to detail are key. Don’t rush the process, and don’t be afraid to ask for help if you get stuck. With a little effort, you can keep your Husqvarna 55 running strong for years to come. Now get out there and make some sawdust!

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