Husqvarna 390xp Review (5 Pro Tips for Ultimate Wood Processing)

The Husqvarna 390XP: Mastering Wood Processing with 5 Pro Tips

If you’re serious about wood processing, whether for firewood, carpentry, or even clearing land, the Husqvarna 390XP is a chainsaw that deserves your attention. It’s a powerhouse, but power alone isn’t enough. Knowing how to wield it effectively and safely is key. In this guide, I’ll share five pro tips, gleaned from years of experience in logging and firewood production, that will help you unlock the 390XP’s full potential and dramatically improve your wood processing workflow. I’ve personally used this saw in demanding environments, from thinning dense forests to processing storm-downed timber. These tips are practical, battle-tested, and designed to make you a more efficient and safer wood processor.

Understanding the Husqvarna 390XP: A Brief Overview

Before diving into the tips, let’s quickly recap what makes the 390XP such a respected chainsaw. It’s a professional-grade saw known for its high power-to-weight ratio, making it suitable for felling larger trees and tackling demanding cutting tasks.

• Engine: Typically boasts a 93.6 cc engine, delivering significant power.
• Bar Length: Can handle bars from 20″ to 36″, providing versatility for different tree sizes.
• Weight: Around 15 lbs (6.9 kg) without the bar and chain, requiring good physical fitness to operate for extended periods.
• Features: Often includes features like Smart Start for easier starting, and an adjustable oil pump for precise chain lubrication.

Tip 1: Mastering the Felling Cut: Precision and Safety First

Felling trees is the foundation of many wood processing operations. A poorly executed felling cut can lead to dangerous situations, wasted timber, and increased processing time. I’ve seen firsthand the devastation a miscalculated fell can cause – a snapped power line, a damaged building, or, worst of all, a serious injury.

The Importance of Proper Felling Techniques

Proper felling isn’t just about cutting down a tree; it’s about controlling where it falls. This control minimizes damage to the surrounding environment, protects you and your colleagues, and makes subsequent processing much easier.

Step-by-Step Guide to a Controlled Felling Cut

1. Assess the Tree: Before even starting the saw, thoroughly assess the tree. Look for:

   • Lean: Determine the tree’s natural lean. This is the direction it will most likely fall.
   • Wind: Pay close attention to wind direction and strength. Wind can significantly alter the tree’s fall path.
   • Dead Limbs: Identify any dead or weakened limbs that could break off during the fall. These are widow makers.
   • Obstacles: Note any obstacles in the intended fall path, such as other trees, power lines, or buildings.
   • Plan Your Escape Route: Before making any cuts, plan two escape routes, each at a 45-degree angle away from the intended fall direction. Clear these routes of any obstructions.

   • The Notch Cut (or Face Cut): This cut determines the direction of the fall.

   • Lower Cut: Make a horizontal cut into the tree to about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.

   • Upper Cut: Make an angled cut that meets the lower cut, creating a wedge-shaped notch. The angle is typically around 45 degrees. Ensure the point of the notch is clean and well-defined.
   • Notch Depth: The depth of the notch influences the “hinge” that controls the fall. A deeper notch provides more control but can also weaken the hinge.

   • The Back Cut: This cut severs the remaining wood, allowing the tree to fall.

   • Position: Make the back cut on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch.
   • Leave a Hinge: Crucially, leave a hinge of uncut wood. This hinge is what controls the tree’s fall. The width of the hinge depends on the tree’s size and species. For a tree with a diameter of 24 inches, a hinge of 2-3 inches is usually sufficient.
   • Wedges: As you make the back cut, insert felling wedges into the cut to prevent the tree from pinching the saw blade and to help push the tree over in the desired direction. Use plastic or wooden wedges to avoid damaging your saw chain.
   • The Fall: Once the back cut is complete and the wedges are in place, give the wedges a few firm taps with a sledgehammer. Watch the tree closely for any signs of movement. As the tree begins to fall, move quickly and safely along your pre-planned escape route.

Case Study: Felling a Leaning Oak

I once had to fell a large oak tree that had a significant lean towards a neighbor’s property. The challenge was to fell it in the opposite direction. I used a combination of strategic wedging and a pulling cable attached high in the tree to counteract the lean. I carefully calculated the hinge size and used two large felling wedges. As I made the back cut, I gradually hammered in the wedges, and with the help of the pulling cable, the tree slowly pivoted and fell exactly where I wanted it. This experience reinforced the importance of careful planning and the use of appropriate tools.

Safety Considerations

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots.
• Bystanders: Ensure that there are no bystanders within a distance of at least twice the tree’s height.
• Communication: If working with a team, establish clear communication signals.
• Fatigue: Avoid felling trees when fatigued. Fatigue can lead to errors in judgment and reduced reaction time.

Tip 2: Chain Selection and Maintenance: Optimizing Cutting Performance

The chain is the heart of your chainsaw’s cutting ability. Choosing the right chain and maintaining it properly is crucial for efficient and safe wood processing. I’ve seen firsthand how a dull or improperly selected chain can dramatically reduce cutting speed, increase fuel consumption, and even damage the saw.

Understanding Different Chain Types

There are several types of chainsaw chains, each designed for specific applications.

• Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters and are the fastest cutting chains. They are best suited for clean wood and require more frequent sharpening.
• Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded-corner cutters and are more durable than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for general-purpose cutting and can handle dirtier wood.
• Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): These chains have smaller cutters and are designed for smaller saws. They are less aggressive but also less prone to kickback.
• Ripping Chains: These chains are designed for cutting wood along the grain, such as for milling lumber.

For the Husqvarna 390XP, I generally recommend a full chisel chain for maximum cutting speed when working with clean wood. However, if you’re cutting dirty or knotty wood, a semi-chisel chain will be more durable and require less frequent sharpening.

Chain Sharpening: The Key to Efficiency

A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting. A dull chain will not only cut slower but will also put more strain on the saw’s engine and increase the risk of kickback.

Tools for Chain Sharpening

• Round File and File Guide: This is the most common method for sharpening chainsaw chains. Use a file guide to ensure that you maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
• Chain Grinder: A chain grinder is a power tool that makes sharpening chains faster and more precise. However, it requires more skill to use properly.
• Depth Gauge Tool: This tool is used to adjust the depth gauges (or rakers) on the chain. The depth gauges control how much the cutters bite into the wood.

Step-by-Step Guide to Chain Sharpening with a Round File

1. Secure the Saw: Secure the saw in a vise or on a stump to prevent it from moving while you’re sharpening.
2. Identify the Correct File Size: Use the correct size round file for your chain. The file size is typically stamped on the chain or listed in the saw’s manual.
3. Use a File Guide: Place the file guide on the chain, aligning it with the cutter.
4. File the Cutter: Hold the file at the correct angle (typically 30 degrees) and file the cutter from the inside out, using smooth, even strokes. File each cutter the same number of times to ensure consistent sharpness.
5. Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges. If they are too high, file them down using a flat file. The correct depth gauge setting depends on the chain type and the type of wood you’re cutting.
6. Repeat for All Cutters: Repeat the process for all cutters on the chain, alternating between left and right cutters.

I personally prefer using a file guide and round file for maintaining my chains in the field. It’s a simple, portable, and effective method. I usually sharpen my chain after every tank of fuel to maintain optimal cutting performance.

Chain Lubrication: Preventing Wear and Tear

Proper chain lubrication is essential for preventing wear and tear on the chain and bar. The oil reduces friction and heat, extending the life of the chain and bar.

• Use the Right Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication.
• Check the Oil Level: Regularly check the oil level in the saw’s oil tank and refill as needed.
• Adjust the Oil Flow: The Husqvarna 390XP has an adjustable oil pump, allowing you to adjust the oil flow to match the cutting conditions. In hot weather or when cutting hardwoods, increase the oil flow. In cold weather or when cutting softwoods, reduce the oil flow.
• Clean the Oil Passages: Regularly clean the oil passages in the bar and oiler to ensure proper oil flow.

Case Study: Extending Chain Life

I once worked on a project where we were cutting a large quantity of very dirty wood. The chains were wearing out quickly, and we were spending a lot of time sharpening them. I decided to switch to a semi-chisel chain and increase the oil flow. This significantly extended the life of the chains and reduced the amount of time we spent sharpening them. It also highlighted the importance of adapting your chain selection and maintenance practices to the specific cutting conditions.

Safety Considerations

• Sharp Chains are Dangerous: A sharp chain is more likely to cause kickback if it catches on something. Be aware of the risk of kickback and use proper cutting techniques.
• Wear Gloves: Wear gloves when sharpening chains to protect your hands from cuts.
• Eye Protection: Wear eye protection to protect your eyes from flying debris.

Tip 3: Mastering Bucking Techniques: Efficiently Processing Logs

Bucking is the process of cutting felled trees into shorter, more manageable lengths. Efficient bucking techniques can significantly reduce the time and effort required to process wood. I’ve learned through experience that proper bucking not only saves time but also minimizes strain on your body and reduces the risk of injury.

Understanding Different Bucking Cuts

There are several different bucking cuts, each designed for specific situations.

• Through Cut: This is the simplest type of bucking cut, where you cut straight through the log. It is best suited for small logs that are not under tension.
• Bore Cut: This cut involves plunging the tip of the saw into the log to relieve tension before making the final cut. It is useful for logs that are under compression.
• Top Cut/Bottom Cut: This technique involves making a partial cut from the top of the log and then finishing the cut from the bottom, or vice versa. It is useful for logs that are under tension.

Step-by-Step Guide to Bucking a Log

1. Assess the Log: Before making any cuts, assess the log for tension and compression. Look for signs of bending or cracking.
2. Support the Log: Support the log on other logs or with supports to prevent it from pinching the saw blade.
3. Choose the Appropriate Cutting Technique: Choose the appropriate cutting technique based on the log’s tension and compression.
4. Make the Cut: Make the cut slowly and carefully, paying attention to the saw’s behavior. If the saw starts to bind, stop cutting and try a different technique.
5. Remove the Cut Section: Once the cut is complete, carefully remove the cut section of the log.

Dealing with Tension and Compression

Tension and compression are forces that can cause the log to pinch the saw blade, making it difficult to cut and potentially causing kickback.

• Tension: Tension occurs when the wood fibers are being pulled apart. To relieve tension, make a cut on the tension side of the log first.
• Compression: Compression occurs when the wood fibers are being squeezed together. To relieve compression, make a cut on the compression side of the log first.

For example, if a log is supported at both ends and you try to cut it in the middle, the top of the log will be under tension and the bottom will be under compression. To buck this log safely, you should make a cut on the top of the log first to relieve the tension, and then finish the cut from the bottom.

Case Study: Bucking a Large, Bent Log

I once had to buck a large oak log that was significantly bent. The log was under a lot of tension and compression, making it difficult to cut safely. I used a combination of bore cuts and top/bottom cuts to relieve the tension and compression before making the final cuts. I also used wedges to prevent the log from pinching the saw blade. It was a slow and careful process, but I was able to buck the log safely and efficiently.

Measuring for Consistent Lengths

When bucking firewood, consistent lengths are crucial for easy stacking and burning.

• Pre-Marking: Use a measuring tape and marking crayon to pre-mark the log at desired lengths. I often use 16-inch lengths for my wood stove.
• Jig System: For high-volume production, a simple jig can be constructed to ensure each cut is the same length.

Safety Considerations

• Secure Footing: Ensure that you have secure footing before making any cuts.
• Avoid Cutting Near the Ground: Avoid cutting logs directly on the ground, as this can damage the saw chain.
• Be Aware of Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback and use proper cutting techniques.

Tip 4: Utilizing Wedges and Levers: Overcoming Difficult Situations

Wedges and levers are invaluable tools for wood processing. They can help you fell trees in the desired direction, prevent saw pinching during bucking, and move heavy logs. I consider them essential companions to my chainsaw, especially when dealing with larger timber.

Types of Wedges

• Felling Wedges: These are typically made of plastic or aluminum and are used to help push trees over during felling.
• Splitting Wedges: These are made of steel and are used to split logs.
• Bucking Wedges: These are smaller, plastic wedges used to prevent the saw from pinching during bucking.

Types of Levers

• Peeves: A peeve is a long-handled lever with a pivoting hook at the end. It is used to roll and lift logs.
• Cant Hooks: A cant hook is similar to a peeve but has a fixed hook. It is also used to roll and lift logs.
• Log Lifters: These are specialized levers designed to lift logs off the ground for easier cutting.

Using Wedges for Felling

As described in Tip 1, wedges are essential for controlling the direction of the fall.

1. Insert Wedges: After making the back cut, insert one or two felling wedges into the cut.
2. Hammer the Wedges: Use a sledgehammer to drive the wedges into the cut, gradually pushing the tree over in the desired direction.

Using Wedges for Bucking

Wedges can prevent the saw from pinching during bucking, especially when dealing with logs under tension or compression.

1. Identify Pinch Points: Identify areas where the log is likely to pinch the saw blade.
2. Insert Wedges: Insert bucking wedges into the cut to keep it open and prevent pinching.

Using Levers for Log Handling

Levers can make it much easier to move heavy logs, reducing strain on your back.

1. Position the Lever: Position the peeve or cant hook on the log.
2. Apply Leverage: Use your body weight to apply leverage to the lever, rolling or lifting the log.

Case Study: Moving a Massive Log with a Peeve

I once had to move a massive oak log that was too heavy to lift. I used a peeve to roll the log into position. By carefully positioning the peeve and applying leverage, I was able to move the log without straining my back. This experience highlighted the importance of using the right tool for the job.

Safety Considerations

• Wear Gloves: Wear gloves when using wedges and levers to protect your hands.
• Use a Sledgehammer with a Good Grip: Use a sledgehammer with a good grip to prevent it from slipping out of your hands.
• Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and ensure that there are no obstacles in the path of the log.

Tip 5: Optimizing Your Workspace: Efficiency and Ergonomics

A well-organized and ergonomically designed workspace can significantly improve your efficiency and reduce the risk of injury. I’ve found that taking the time to set up a proper workspace pays dividends in terms of increased productivity and reduced physical strain.

Creating an Efficient Workspace

• Clear the Area: Clear the area of any obstacles, such as rocks, branches, or debris.
• Level the Ground: Level the ground as much as possible to provide a stable working surface.
• Organize Your Tools: Keep your tools organized and within easy reach. Use a tool belt or a toolbox to keep your tools organized.
• Create a Designated Cutting Area: Create a designated cutting area where you can safely buck logs.
• Stack Firewood Neatly: Stack firewood neatly to allow for proper drying and easy access.

Ergonomics: Reducing Strain and Preventing Injuries

Ergonomics is the science of designing workplaces and equipment to fit the people who use them. Applying ergonomic principles to your wood processing workspace can reduce strain and prevent injuries.

• Proper Lifting Techniques: Use proper lifting techniques when lifting heavy logs. Bend your knees, keep your back straight, and lift with your legs.
• Avoid Overreaching: Avoid overreaching when cutting or moving logs. Position yourself close to the work to minimize strain.
• Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to rest and stretch your muscles.
• Vary Your Tasks: Vary your tasks to avoid repetitive motions.
• Use Proper Tool Heights: Raise logs to a comfortable height for bucking. This can be achieved with log stands or by using existing stumps.

Case Study: Designing an Ergonomic Firewood Processing Station

I designed a firewood processing station that incorporated ergonomic principles. I built a log stand to raise the logs to a comfortable cutting height. I also organized my tools in a tool belt and created a designated cutting area. This significantly reduced strain on my back and shoulders and increased my efficiency.

Firewood Stacking Techniques

Proper firewood stacking promotes air circulation, which is essential for drying the wood.

• Elevated Stacking: Stack firewood on pallets or other elevated surfaces to keep it off the ground and prevent moisture from wicking into the wood.
• Criss-Cross Ends: Criss-cross the ends of the stack to provide stability and allow for air circulation.
• Leave Space Between Rows: Leave space between rows of firewood to allow for air circulation.
• Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect the wood from rain and snow.

Safety Considerations

• Wear Proper Footwear: Wear sturdy boots with good ankle support.
• Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for tripping hazards.
• Keep the Area Clean: Keep the area clean and free of debris.

Beyond the Basics: Advanced Techniques and Considerations

While the five tips above provide a solid foundation for efficient wood processing with the Husqvarna 390XP, there are additional advanced techniques and considerations that can further enhance your skills and productivity.

Wood Species and Their Impact on Processing

Different wood species have different densities, grain patterns, and moisture contents, which can significantly affect the ease of processing.

• Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods (e.g., oak, maple, hickory) are generally denser and more difficult to split than softwoods (e.g., pine, fir, spruce).
• Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood (freshly cut wood) is much heavier and more difficult to split than seasoned wood (wood that has been dried for several months).
• Knotty Wood: Wood with knots can be extremely difficult to split and can also damage your tools.

Understanding the properties of different wood species can help you choose the right tools and techniques for the job. For example, when splitting hardwoods, a hydraulic log splitter is often a necessity.

Hydraulic Log Splitters: Maximizing Efficiency

Hydraulic log splitters can significantly increase your efficiency when splitting firewood, especially when dealing with hardwoods or large logs.

• Tonnage: Log splitters are rated by tonnage, which indicates the amount of force they can exert. A log splitter with a tonnage of 20 tons or more is generally recommended for splitting hardwoods.
• Cycle Time: Cycle time is the amount of time it takes for the splitter to complete a full cycle (extend and retract the wedge). A shorter cycle time means you can split more wood in less time.
• Horizontal vs. Vertical: Log splitters are available in horizontal and vertical configurations. Horizontal splitters are generally easier to use, while vertical splitters are better for splitting large logs.

I personally use a 25-ton hydraulic log splitter for processing firewood. It has significantly reduced the amount of time and effort required to split wood, especially hardwoods.

Chainsaw Milling: Producing Lumber from Logs

Chainsaw milling is the process of using a chainsaw to cut logs into lumber. It is a cost-effective way to produce lumber from logs that are too large or too remote to be processed by a traditional sawmill.

• Chainsaw Mill Attachment: A chainsaw mill attachment is a frame that attaches to your chainsaw and guides it through the log, ensuring that the cuts are straight and accurate.
• Ripping Chain: A ripping chain is a specialized chainsaw chain designed for cutting wood along the grain.
• Planing: After milling the lumber, it needs to be planed to create a smooth surface.

Chainsaw milling is a challenging but rewarding process. It requires patience, skill, and the right tools.

Safety: The Paramount Consideration

Safety should always be your top priority when working with chainsaws and other wood processing equipment.

• Read the Manual: Always read the manufacturer’s manual before using any tool or equipment.
• Wear PPE: Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots.
• Maintain Your Equipment: Regularly inspect and maintain your equipment to ensure that it is in good working condition.
• Work in a Safe Environment: Work in a safe environment, free of obstacles and hazards.
• Be Aware of Fatigue: Avoid working when fatigued.

Conclusion: Mastering the Art of Wood Processing

The Husqvarna 390XP is a powerful and versatile chainsaw that can be used for a wide range of wood processing tasks. By mastering the five pro tips outlined in this guide, you can unlock the saw’s full potential and dramatically improve your efficiency and safety. Remember to always prioritize safety, use the right tools and techniques for the job, and take the time to learn and improve your skills. Wood processing can be a challenging but rewarding activity, and with the right knowledge and equipment, you can transform raw logs into valuable resources. Now, get out there and start processing!

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