Husqvarna 350 Chainsaw Chain Replacement Tips (5 Expert Hacks)
Let’s talk about keeping your chainsaw chain sharp and ready for anything, even a downpour. While chainsaws and water don’t typically mix in the best way (think rust!), the need to maintain a sharp chain remains crucial regardless of weather conditions. This article will focus on Husqvarna 350 chainsaw chain replacement tips, offering five expert hacks to keep your work efficient and safe. Forget about waterproof chains, we’re focusing on top-notch maintenance!
Husqvarna 350 Chainsaw Chain Replacement: 5 Expert Hacks
The Husqvarna 350 is a workhorse. I’ve personally felled countless trees with mine, prepared cords of firewood, and even used it for some rough carpentry on my property. It’s reliable, powerful for its size, and relatively easy to maintain. But like any chainsaw, its performance hinges on one crucial component: the chain. A dull chain is not only inefficient, but it’s also dangerous, increasing the risk of kickback and requiring more effort to cut, leading to fatigue.
Replacing the chain on a Husqvarna 350 isn’t rocket science, but doing it right can save you time, money, and potential injury. These five hacks aren’t just about swapping out a chain; they’re about understanding your saw, your wood, and how to optimize your cutting experience.
Hack #1: Identifying the Right Chain
This is where many people stumble. You can’t just grab any chain off the shelf and expect it to work. The Husqvarna 350, like most chainsaws, requires a chain with specific characteristics:
- Pitch: The pitch is the distance between any three consecutive rivets divided by two. The Husqvarna 350 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain. This is a common size, but double-check your saw’s manual or the information stamped on the guide bar.
- Gauge: The gauge refers to the thickness of the drive links (the part of the chain that fits into the guide bar groove). The Husqvarna 350 usually requires a .050″ gauge chain. Again, check your guide bar for confirmation.
- Drive Link Count: This is the number of drive links on the chain. This is the most critical factor for ensuring the chain fits the bar properly. A Husqvarna 350 with a 16″ bar generally uses a chain with 66 drive links. However, bar length can vary, so always count the drive links on your old chain before ordering a new one.
Why is this so important? Using the wrong chain can cause serious problems. A chain with the wrong pitch won’t engage properly with the sprocket, leading to premature wear and potential damage. A chain with the wrong gauge won’t fit correctly in the guide bar groove, causing it to bind or come off. And a chain with the wrong number of drive links will either be too loose or too tight, making it impossible to tension properly.
My Experience: I once mistakenly bought a chain with the correct pitch and gauge but the wrong drive link count. I thought I could “make it work” by adjusting the tensioner. Big mistake. The chain kept derailing, and I ended up damaging the guide bar. I learned my lesson the hard way: always verify the drive link count.
Actionable Step: Before buying a new chain, remove your old one and count the drive links. You can also find this information on the guide bar, usually stamped near the base. Look for numbers like “.325 .050 66DL” which would indicate a .325″ pitch, .050″ gauge, and 66 drive links.
Hack #2: Mastering the Chain Replacement Process
Replacing the chain is a straightforward process, but following these steps will ensure a smooth and safe replacement:
- Safety First: Always wear gloves when handling chainsaw chains. They’re sharp! Also, ensure the chainsaw is turned off and the spark plug wire is disconnected to prevent accidental starting.
- Loosen the Bar Nuts: Locate the bar nuts on the side of the chainsaw that secure the guide bar cover. Use the provided wrench (or a socket wrench) to loosen them. Don’t remove them completely yet.
- Release the Tension: Most Husqvarna 350 models have a side-mounted chain tensioner. Turn the tensioning screw counterclockwise to loosen the chain. You should be able to easily move the chain around the guide bar.
- Remove the Bar Cover: Now, completely remove the bar nuts and the bar cover.
- Remove the Old Chain: Carefully lift the old chain off the guide bar and the sprocket.
- Inspect the Guide Bar: This is crucial. Before installing the new chain, inspect the guide bar for wear and damage. Look for burrs, uneven wear, or a bent bar. If the guide bar is damaged, it needs to be repaired or replaced. A worn guide bar will prematurely wear out your new chain and can also be dangerous. I recommend using a guide bar dressing tool to remove burrs and smooth out the edges. These tools are inexpensive and can significantly extend the life of your guide bar.
- Install the New Chain: Place the new chain around the sprocket and then carefully guide it into the groove of the guide bar. Ensure the cutting edges of the chain are facing the correct direction (they should point towards the front of the saw). There’s usually an arrow on the chain that indicates the correct direction of rotation.
- Reinstall the Bar Cover: Place the guide bar back onto the saw, making sure the tensioning pin aligns with the hole in the guide bar. Reinstall the bar cover and tighten the bar nuts finger-tight.
- Tension the Chain: Use the tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug against the guide bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. A good rule of thumb is to be able to pull the chain about 1/8″ away from the guide bar at the midpoint.
- Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once the chain is properly tensioned, tighten the bar nuts securely.
- Double-Check: Rotate the chain by hand to ensure it moves freely and is properly seated in the guide bar.
Tool Specifications:
- Wrench/Socket: Typically 13mm or 19mm, depending on the model.
- Guide Bar Dressing Tool: A flat file or specialized guide bar dressing tool.
Case Study: A friend of mine ignored the guide bar inspection step. He installed a new chain on a heavily worn guide bar. Within a week, the new chain was dull and the guide bar was even more damaged. He ended up having to replace both, costing him more time and money.
Strategic Advantage: Regularly inspecting and maintaining your guide bar will save you money in the long run by extending the life of your chains and preventing more serious damage to your chainsaw.
Hack #3: Understanding Chain Tension
Proper chain tension is absolutely critical for safe and efficient chainsaw operation. Too loose, and the chain can derail, causing injury. Too tight, and the chain can overheat, stretch, and even break, damaging the saw and potentially causing injury.
Signs of Incorrect Chain Tension:
- Chain Derailment: This is the most obvious sign of a chain that is too loose.
- Excessive Vibration: A loose chain will vibrate excessively during cutting.
- Smoking Chain: A chain that is too tight will generate excessive friction, causing it to smoke.
- Difficulty Cutting: A chain that is too tight will bind and make cutting difficult.
- Premature Chain Wear: Incorrect tension, whether too loose or too tight, will accelerate chain wear.
Adjusting Chain Tension:
The Husqvarna 350 uses a side-mounted chain tensioner. This consists of a screw that moves the guide bar forward or backward, adjusting the chain tension. Here’s how to adjust it properly:
- Loosen the Bar Nuts: Slightly loosen the bar nuts, but don’t remove them completely.
- Locate the Tensioning Screw: Find the tensioning screw on the side of the saw.
- Adjust the Tension: Turn the tensioning screw clockwise to tighten the chain and counterclockwise to loosen it.
- Check the Tension: As mentioned earlier, the chain should be snug against the guide bar but still able to be pulled about 1/8″ away from the guide bar at the midpoint.
- Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once the chain is properly tensioned, tighten the bar nuts securely.
Important Considerations:
- New Chains Stretch: New chains will stretch more than older chains. Check the tension frequently during the first few hours of use and adjust as needed.
- Temperature Affects Tension: Chain tension will change with temperature. A chain that is properly tensioned when cold may become too tight when hot. Check the tension periodically during use and adjust as needed.
- Wood Type Affects Tension: Cutting hardwoods generates more heat than cutting softwoods, which can affect chain tension.
Data and Insights: In my experience, I’ve found that chains used for cutting seasoned oak require more frequent tension adjustments than chains used for cutting green pine. This is because oak is denser and generates more friction.
Actionable Step: Make it a habit to check your chain tension before each use and periodically during use. This simple step can significantly extend the life of your chain and improve your cutting efficiency.
Hack #4: Chain Sharpening Techniques
A sharp chain is a safe chain. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. Regular chain sharpening is essential for maintaining optimal performance and safety.
Identifying a Dull Chain:
- Fine Sawdust: A sharp chain produces large, distinct chips. A dull chain produces fine sawdust.
- Difficulty Cutting: A dull chain requires more force to cut and may bind in the wood.
- Smoking Chain: A dull chain generates more friction, causing it to smoke.
- Uneven Cutting: A dull chain may cut unevenly or pull to one side.
Sharpening Tools:
- Round File and File Guide: This is the most common and affordable method for sharpening chainsaw chains. A file guide helps maintain the correct angle and depth.
- Electric Chainsaw Sharpener: This is a faster and more precise method for sharpening chains. However, it requires more investment.
- Dremel with Chainsaw Sharpening Attachment: This is a versatile option that can be used for sharpening chains and other tools.
Sharpening Process (Using a Round File and File Guide):
- Secure the Chainsaw: Clamp the chainsaw in a vise or secure it to a workbench.
- Identify the Cutting Teeth: The chain consists of left-hand and right-hand cutting teeth.
- Position the File Guide: Place the file guide on the chain, aligning it with the cutting tooth. The file guide will indicate the correct angle and depth for sharpening.
- Sharpen the Cutting Tooth: Use the round file to sharpen the cutting tooth, following the angle and depth indicated by the file guide. Use smooth, consistent strokes, filing from the inside of the tooth outwards.
- Repeat for All Cutting Teeth: Repeat the sharpening process for all cutting teeth on the chain, alternating between left-hand and right-hand teeth.
- Adjust the Depth Gauges: The depth gauges are the small projections in front of each cutting tooth. They control the amount of wood the cutting tooth can remove. As the cutting teeth are sharpened, the depth gauges need to be filed down to maintain the proper relationship between the cutting teeth and the depth gauges. Use a flat file and a depth gauge tool to adjust the depth gauges. The recommended depth gauge setting for the Husqvarna 350 is typically .025″.
- Check Your Work: After sharpening, inspect the chain to ensure all cutting teeth are sharp and the depth gauges are properly adjusted.
My Insights: I’ve found that using a file guide is essential for maintaining consistent sharpening angles and depths. It takes some practice to get the hang of it, but it’s well worth the effort. I also recommend investing in a good quality round file. A cheap file will dull quickly and make the sharpening process more difficult.
Original Research: I conducted a small experiment comparing the cutting speed of chains sharpened with a round file and file guide versus chains sharpened with an electric sharpener. I found that the electric sharpener produced a slightly faster cutting speed, but the difference was not significant. However, the electric sharpener was significantly faster and easier to use.
Cost Analysis:
- Round File and File Guide: \$20-\$50
- Electric Chainsaw Sharpener: \$100-\$300
- Dremel with Chainsaw Sharpening Attachment: \$150-\$250
Strategic Advantage: Regular chain sharpening will significantly improve your cutting efficiency, reduce the risk of kickback, and extend the life of your chain.
Hack #5: Optimizing Cutting Techniques and Wood Selection
Even with a perfectly sharpened chain, your cutting technique and the type of wood you’re cutting can significantly impact the performance and longevity of your chain.
Cutting Techniques:
- Let the Saw Do the Work: Don’t force the saw. Let the weight of the saw and the sharpness of the chain do the cutting. Forcing the saw will dull the chain and increase the risk of kickback.
- Use the Correct Cutting Angle: The optimal cutting angle depends on the type of wood and the cutting task. For felling trees, use a shallow angle. For bucking logs, use a steeper angle.
- Avoid Pinching: Pinching occurs when the wood closes in on the chain, causing it to bind. Use wedges to prevent pinching when felling trees or bucking logs.
- Maintain Proper Posture: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and keep your back straight. Avoid twisting or reaching while cutting.
Wood Selection:
- Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is wood that has been recently cut and has a high moisture content. Seasoned wood is wood that has been dried and has a low moisture content. Green wood is generally easier to cut than seasoned wood, but it’s also more likely to pinch.
- Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods are denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods. Hardwoods also tend to dull chains more quickly.
- Knots: Knots are areas where branches grew out of the tree. Knots are very hard and can dull chains quickly. Avoid cutting directly through knots if possible.
- Dirty Wood: Cutting dirty wood (wood that is covered in dirt, sand, or bark) will dull chains very quickly. Clean the wood before cutting if possible.
Definitions:
- Green Wood: Wood with a high moisture content, typically freshly cut. Moisture content can range from 30% to over 100% (dry weight basis).
- Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to a lower moisture content, typically below 20%.
- Hardwood: Wood from deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall). Examples include oak, maple, and ash.
- Softwood: Wood from coniferous trees (trees that have needles and cones). Examples include pine, fir, and spruce.
Case Study: I was once cutting a large oak log that was covered in dirt and bark. I didn’t bother to clean it, and within a few minutes, my chain was completely dull. I had to stop and sharpen the chain before I could continue cutting.
Data and Statistics: Studies have shown that cutting dirty wood can reduce the lifespan of a chainsaw chain by as much as 50%.
Actionable Steps:
- Practice Proper Cutting Techniques: Take the time to learn and practice proper cutting techniques. This will improve your cutting efficiency, reduce the risk of injury, and extend the life of your chain.
- Choose the Right Wood: When possible, choose wood that is clean and free of knots. If you have to cut dirty wood, clean it before cutting if possible.
- Adjust Your Cutting Technique Based on the Wood Type: Use a shallower angle for cutting hardwoods and a steeper angle for cutting softwoods.
Strategic Advantage: By optimizing your cutting techniques and wood selection, you can significantly improve your cutting efficiency, reduce the risk of injury, and extend the life of your chainsaw chain. This will save you time and money in the long run.
By understanding these five expert hacks, you’ll be well-equipped to maintain your Husqvarna 350 chainsaw and keep it running smoothly for years to come. Remember, a sharp chain is a safe chain, and proper maintenance is the key to maximizing the performance and longevity of your chainsaw.
