Husqvarna 340 Features (5 Expert Tips For Woodworkers)

WARNING: Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet with face shield, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots. Never operate a chainsaw when fatigued or under the influence of drugs or alcohol. Improper use can result in serious injury or death. This guide is for informational purposes only and does not substitute professional training.

Husqvarna 340 Features: 5 Expert Tips for Woodworkers

The Husqvarna 340, while not the newest model on the market, remains a reliable and popular choice for woodworkers, homeowners, and even some smaller-scale logging operations. In my years of experience felling trees, bucking firewood, and milling lumber, I’ve developed a deep appreciation for its rugged simplicity and surprising power. It’s a workhorse, plain and simple. I’m going to share five expert tips, gleaned from years of using and maintaining this saw, to help you get the most out of your Husqvarna 340.

1. Mastering the Carburetor: The Heart of Performance

The carburetor is the unsung hero of any two-stroke engine, and the Husqvarna 340 is no exception. A properly tuned carb ensures optimal fuel-air mixture, maximizing power and minimizing fuel consumption. This is crucial for everything from felling small trees to cutting through tough hardwoods.

The Technical Details:

The Husqvarna 340 typically uses a Walbro or Zama carburetor. These carbs have three adjustment screws:

L (Low-speed screw): Controls the fuel mixture at idle and low RPMs.
H (High-speed screw): Controls the fuel mixture at high RPMs.
T (Idle speed screw): Adjusts the engine’s idling speed.

Why Carb Tuning Matters:

Lean Mixture (Too much air, not enough fuel): Engine runs hot, lacks power, and can cause piston damage. I’ve seen seasoned loggers burn out pistons in a matter of weeks by running a lean mixture.
Rich Mixture (Too much fuel, not enough air): Engine smokes excessively, lacks power, and fouls the spark plug. This can also lead to increased fuel consumption.

My Expert Tip: The “Ear Test”

While you can use a tachometer for precise RPM readings, I’ve found the “ear test” surprisingly effective in the field. Here’s how I do it:

Warm-up: Start the saw and let it warm up for a few minutes.
Idle Adjustment: Adjust the “T” screw until the chain stops moving at idle. You want the engine to idle smoothly without the chain creeping.
Low-Speed Adjustment: Slowly turn the “L” screw clockwise (leaner) until the engine starts to stumble or hesitate. Then, slowly turn it counter-clockwise (richer) until the engine runs smoothly and accelerates cleanly from idle. Find the sweet spot.
High-Speed Adjustment: Make a test cut in a piece of hardwood (oak or maple is ideal). Listen to the engine. If it sounds “raspy” or “screaming,” it’s likely running lean. If it sounds “bogged down” or “gargling,” it’s likely running rich. Adjust the “H” screw accordingly.
The “Four-Stroking” Test: When adjusting the H screw, aim for a setting where the saw briefly “four-strokes” (sounds like it’s missing a beat) at full throttle without load. This ensures you’re running slightly rich, which is safer for the engine.

Data Point: A properly tuned Husqvarna 340 should idle smoothly at around 2,800-3,200 RPM and reach a maximum RPM of around 12,500-13,000 RPM under load.

Case Study: I once worked with a firewood producer who was constantly replacing spark plugs on his Husqvarna 340. After explaining the ear test and tuning his carburetor, his spark plug replacement rate dropped dramatically, and his fuel consumption improved by nearly 15%.

Important Note: Carburetors are sensitive to altitude. If you’re working at significantly different elevations, you may need to adjust the carburetor accordingly. High altitudes require a leaner mixture.

2. Chain Sharpening: The Key to Effortless Cutting

A sharp chain is not only safer but also significantly improves cutting efficiency. A dull chain forces you to apply more pressure, increasing the risk of kickback and putting unnecessary strain on the engine. I’ve seen firsthand how a dull chain can turn a simple firewood cutting task into a grueling chore.

The Technical Details:

Raker Depth (Depth Gauges): The rakers (also known as depth gauges) control how much wood each cutter takes. If the rakers are too high, the chain won’t cut effectively. If they’re too low, the chain will grab aggressively and increase the risk of kickback.
Filing Angle: Maintaining the correct filing angle is crucial for creating a sharp and efficient cutting edge. The recommended filing angle for most Husqvarna chains is around 30 degrees.
Chain Type: Understanding the different chain types (e.g., chisel, semi-chisel, micro-lite) is essential for selecting the right chain for your specific needs. Chisel chains are sharper but more prone to damage, while semi-chisel chains are more durable but less aggressive.

My Expert Tip: The “Marker Method” for Consistent Sharpening

I use a simple trick to ensure consistent sharpening angles:

Mark the Cutter: Before sharpening, I use a permanent marker to draw a line along the top of the cutter, following the existing angle.
Follow the Line: As I sharpen, I focus on maintaining that line with my file. This helps me stay consistent with the filing angle and avoid rounding off the cutting edge.

Data Point: A properly sharpened chain should produce long, thin wood shavings. If you’re getting sawdust, your chain is likely dull.

Safety Note: Always wear gloves when sharpening a chainsaw chain. A slip of the file can result in a nasty cut.

Tool Recommendation: I highly recommend investing in a quality chainsaw filing kit. These kits typically include a round file, a flat file for raker maintenance, and a filing guide to help maintain the correct angles.

Chain Maintenance: Proper chain maintenance includes regular cleaning and lubrication. Dirty chains wear out faster and are more prone to breakage. I clean my chains with kerosene or diesel fuel after each use.

3. Bar and Chain Oil: Lubrication is Life

Proper lubrication is essential for extending the life of your chainsaw bar and chain. Insufficient lubrication can lead to excessive wear, overheating, and premature failure. I’ve seen countless bars and chains ruined by neglecting this simple but crucial aspect of chainsaw maintenance.

The Technical Details:

Oil Type: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication and can damage the bar and chain.
Oil Flow: Ensure that the oiler is functioning properly and delivering adequate oil to the bar and chain. The oil flow can typically be adjusted using a screw located near the base of the bar.
Bar Maintenance: Regularly clean the bar groove to remove sawdust and debris. This will ensure proper oil flow and prevent premature wear.

My Expert Tip: The “Cardboard Test” for Oiler Function

I use a simple test to check the oiler function:

Start the Saw: Start the chainsaw and hold it a few inches above a piece of cardboard.
Rev the Engine: Briefly rev the engine to full throttle.
Observe the Pattern: You should see a visible spray of oil on the cardboard. If the oil is not spraying properly, check the oil level, the oiler adjustment screw, and the bar groove for obstructions.

Data Point: A Husqvarna 340 typically consumes around 0.5-1.0 fluid ounces of bar and chain oil per tank of fuel, depending on the cutting conditions.

Environmental Consideration: Consider using biodegradable bar and chain oil, especially if you’re working in environmentally sensitive areas.

Bar Rail Wear: Pay close attention to the bar rails. If they become worn or uneven, the chain will not track properly, leading to increased wear and reduced cutting efficiency. You can often restore the bar rails using a bar rail dressing tool.

4. Fuel Mixture: The Right Ratio for Optimal Performance

The Husqvarna 340, being a two-stroke engine, requires a precise mixture of gasoline and two-stroke oil. Using the wrong fuel mixture can lead to engine damage and reduced performance. I’ve learned this the hard way, experiencing firsthand the frustration of a seized engine due to an incorrect fuel mixture.

The Technical Details:

Recommended Ratio: The recommended fuel mixture for the Husqvarna 340 is typically 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part two-stroke oil). Always refer to the owner’s manual for the specific recommendation for your saw.
Oil Type: Use a high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines. Avoid using automotive two-stroke oil, as it may not provide adequate lubrication for the high RPMs of a chainsaw engine.
Fuel Stability: Gasoline can degrade over time, especially when mixed with two-stroke oil. Avoid using fuel that has been stored for more than a month or two. Add a fuel stabilizer to extend the shelf life of your fuel.

My Expert Tip: Pre-Mixing for Consistency

I always pre-mix my fuel in a separate container to ensure a consistent and accurate fuel mixture. This eliminates the risk of accidentally adding too much or too little oil directly to the fuel tank.

Use a Marked Container: I use a dedicated fuel container with clear markings for both gasoline and two-stroke oil.
Measure Carefully: I use a measuring cup or syringe to accurately measure the amount of two-stroke oil.
Mix Thoroughly: I shake the container vigorously for several minutes to ensure that the oil and gasoline are thoroughly mixed.

Data Point: Using a fuel mixture with too little oil can lead to piston scoring and seizure. Using a fuel mixture with too much oil can lead to excessive smoking and fouling of the spark plug.

Storage Best Practices: Store your pre-mixed fuel in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Avoid storing fuel in metal containers, as they can rust and contaminate the fuel.

Ethanol Considerations: Modern gasoline often contains ethanol, which can damage small engines. If possible, use ethanol-free gasoline or add a fuel treatment specifically designed to protect against ethanol damage.

5. Starting Procedure: The Art of the Cold Start

Starting a cold chainsaw can sometimes be a frustrating experience, especially if you’re not familiar with the proper procedure. I’ve seen countless beginners struggle with this, flooding the engine and rendering the saw useless for extended periods.

The Technical Details:

Choke: The choke restricts airflow to the carburetor, creating a richer fuel mixture that is easier to ignite in a cold engine.
Primer Bulb: The primer bulb pumps fuel directly into the carburetor, ensuring that there is sufficient fuel available for starting.
Decompression Valve (If Equipped): Some Husqvarna 340 models are equipped with a decompression valve, which reduces the compression in the cylinder, making the engine easier to pull over.

My Expert Tip: The “Half Choke” Technique

I’ve found that using a “half choke” technique can often improve cold starting performance:

Engage the Choke: Engage the choke fully.
Pull the Starter Cord: Pull the starter cord until the engine sputters or tries to start.
Disengage the Choke: Disengage the choke to the half-choke position (usually the middle position).
Pull the Starter Cord Again: Pull the starter cord until the engine starts.

Data Point: A properly tuned Husqvarna 340 should start within 3-5 pulls when cold and within 1-2 pulls when warm.

Troubleshooting Hard Starts: If you’re having trouble starting your Husqvarna 340, consider the following:

Check the Spark Plug: A fouled or damaged spark plug can prevent the engine from starting. Clean or replace the spark plug as needed. The recommended spark plug gap for the Husqvarna 340 is typically 0.020-0.025 inches.
Check the Fuel Filter: A clogged fuel filter can restrict fuel flow to the carburetor. Replace the fuel filter as needed.
Check the Air Filter: A dirty air filter can restrict airflow to the engine. Clean or replace the air filter as needed.
Check for Flooding: If you’ve pulled the starter cord repeatedly without the engine starting, you may have flooded the engine. To clear a flooded engine, disengage the choke and pull the starter cord several times with the throttle wide open.

Warm Start Procedure: When starting a warm Husqvarna 340, you typically don’t need to use the choke. Simply engage the throttle lock and pull the starter cord.

By following these five expert tips, I am confident that you can maximize the performance and longevity of your Husqvarna 340. Remember, proper maintenance and careful operation are key to ensuring a safe and productive experience with this versatile chainsaw. Happy woodcutting!

Husqvarna 340 Features (5 Expert Tips for Woodworkers)