Husqvarna 288 XP Review (Unexpected Issues in Woodcutting Gear)
“I thought the Husqvarna 288 XP was supposed to be a legend! I bought one used, and while it starts okay, it bogs down in anything bigger than a 12-inch log. What gives? Is this saw overrated, or am I missing something?”
That’s a sentiment I’ve heard echoed more than once in my years around logging sites and firewood yards. The Husqvarna 288 XP holds a special place in many a logger’s heart. It’s known for its power and reliability, a true workhorse. But like any piece of machinery, especially one that’s been around for a while, the 288 XP can develop issues. Let’s dive into the potential problems and how to troubleshoot them. I’ll share my experiences, tips, and tricks for keeping this classic saw running strong.
Husqvarna 288 XP: A Deep Dive Review and Troubleshooting Guide
The Husqvarna 288 XP is more than just a chainsaw; it’s a piece of logging history. This saw, produced from the late 1980s into the early 2000s, earned its reputation for ruggedness and raw power. It was a favorite among professional loggers for tackling demanding jobs. But time takes its toll. A used 288 XP, even one that appears well-maintained, can harbor hidden problems. We’ll explore those issues in detail.
Understanding the 288 XP’s Strengths (and Weaknesses)
Before we get into the nitty-gritty of troubleshooting, let’s recap what makes the 288 XP special. It boasts a 87cc engine, delivering impressive torque. This power allows it to handle hardwoods with ease. Its robust construction means it can withstand the rigors of daily use. However, its age also means that certain components are prone to wear and tear.
Key Specifications
- Engine Displacement: 87 cc (5.3 cu in)
- Power Output: Approximately 6.4 hp (4.8 kW)
- Weight (Powerhead Only): Around 15.4 lbs (7 kg)
- Recommended Bar Length: 16-28 inches (40-70 cm)
- Fuel Tank Capacity: 0.9 liters (0.24 US gallons)
- Oil Tank Capacity: 0.5 liters (0.13 US gallons)
These specs highlight the saw’s capabilities. It’s designed for serious cutting. But remember, these numbers represent the saw in its prime. Performance degrades as parts wear.
Common Issues and Troubleshooting Steps
Now, let’s address the elephant in the room: the “bogging down” issue. This is a common complaint with older 288 XPs. It usually indicates a problem with fuel delivery, air intake, or engine compression. I’ve seen this firsthand on several saws I’ve worked on. Here’s a systematic approach to diagnosing and fixing the problem.
1. Fuel System Check
The fuel system is often the culprit when a chainsaw loses power under load. A restricted fuel flow starves the engine, leading to bogging.
- Fuel Filter: This is the first place to start. A clogged fuel filter restricts fuel flow. I recommend replacing the fuel filter annually, or more often if you’re cutting in dusty conditions. They’re cheap and easy to replace. I once had a 288 XP that would only run for a few minutes before sputtering out. The fuel filter was completely gunked up with old fuel residue.
- Procedure: Locate the fuel filter inside the fuel tank. It’s usually attached to the end of the fuel line. Use a small hook or pliers to pull it out. Inspect it for debris. If it’s dirty, replace it with a new one. Use a fuel filter designed for Husqvarna chainsaws to ensure compatibility.
- Fuel Lines: Inspect the fuel lines for cracks, leaks, or kinks. Old fuel lines can become brittle and crack, allowing air to enter the fuel system. This disrupts the fuel-air mixture and causes performance problems.
- Procedure: Carefully examine the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carburetor. Look for any signs of damage. If you find any, replace the fuel lines with new ones. Use fuel lines specifically designed for chainsaws. They are resistant to the chemicals in gasoline.
- Carburetor: The carburetor mixes fuel and air to create the combustible mixture that powers the engine. A dirty or improperly adjusted carburetor can cause a variety of problems, including bogging.
- Procedure: Start by cleaning the carburetor. Remove the air filter and spray carburetor cleaner into the carburetor throat while the engine is running (if possible). If that doesn’t help, you may need to disassemble the carburetor and clean it more thoroughly. Pay close attention to the jets and passages. Use compressed air to blow out any debris.
- Adjustment: The 288 XP carburetor typically has two adjustment screws: the “H” screw (high-speed) and the “L” screw (low-speed). The “H” screw controls the fuel mixture at high RPMs, while the “L” screw controls the fuel mixture at idle and low RPMs.
- Initial Settings: As a starting point, turn both screws all the way in (clockwise) until they are lightly seated. Then, back them out 1 to 1.5 turns.
- Fine-Tuning: Start the saw and let it warm up. Adjust the “L” screw until the engine idles smoothly. Then, make a test cut. If the saw bogs down at high RPMs, slowly turn the “H” screw counterclockwise to richen the fuel mixture. If the saw smokes excessively or runs rough, turn the “H” screw clockwise to lean the fuel mixture. Make small adjustments and test the saw after each adjustment until it runs smoothly and powerfully.
- Fuel Cap Vent: The fuel cap vent allows air to enter the fuel tank, preventing a vacuum from forming. A clogged vent can restrict fuel flow.
- Procedure: Remove the fuel cap and inspect the vent. It’s usually a small hole or valve on the cap. Clean it with a small wire or compressed air. I’ve used a sewing needle to clear these vents in a pinch.
Takeaway: A clean and properly functioning fuel system is crucial for optimal performance. Don’t overlook any of these components.
2. Air Intake System Inspection
The air intake system provides the engine with the air it needs for combustion. A dirty or restricted air filter can starve the engine of air, leading to bogging.
- Air Filter: A dirty air filter is a common cause of performance problems. The 288 XP’s air filter is typically a foam or felt element.
- Procedure: Remove the air filter and inspect it. If it’s dirty, clean it with warm soapy water. Rinse it thoroughly and let it air dry completely before reinstalling it. If the filter is damaged or excessively dirty, replace it with a new one. I keep a spare air filter on hand so I can swap them out when needed.
- Air Filter Housing: Make sure the air filter housing is clean and free of debris. A clogged housing can restrict airflow.
- Procedure: Remove the air filter housing and inspect it for dirt, sawdust, or other debris. Clean it with a brush or compressed air.
- Intake Manifold: The intake manifold connects the carburetor to the engine. Check it for cracks or leaks. A leak in the intake manifold can allow air to enter the engine, disrupting the fuel-air mixture.
- Procedure: Inspect the intake manifold for cracks or leaks. You can use a spray bottle filled with soapy water to check for leaks. Spray the soapy water around the intake manifold while the engine is running. If you see bubbles forming, that indicates a leak. Replace the intake manifold if necessary.
Takeaway: A clean and unobstructed air intake system is essential for proper engine performance.
3. Ignition System Evaluation
The ignition system provides the spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture in the engine. A weak or intermittent spark can cause the engine to misfire or bog down.
- Spark Plug: The spark plug ignites the fuel-air mixture. A fouled or worn spark plug can cause a weak spark.
- Procedure: Remove the spark plug and inspect it. Look for signs of fouling, such as carbon buildup or oil deposits. Clean the spark plug with a wire brush or replace it with a new one. Make sure the spark plug gap is correct. The correct gap for the 288 XP is typically 0.020 inches (0.5 mm). I always carry a spark plug gap tool in my toolkit.
- Ignition Coil: The ignition coil generates the high-voltage spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture. A faulty ignition coil can produce a weak or intermittent spark.
- Procedure: Test the ignition coil with a multimeter. Set the multimeter to measure resistance. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Connect one probe of the multimeter to the spark plug wire terminal on the ignition coil and the other probe to the engine ground. The resistance should be within the manufacturer’s specifications. If the resistance is outside the specifications, replace the ignition coil. This is a more advanced test, and you may need to consult a service manual or qualified technician.
- Spark Plug Wire and Boot: Inspect the spark plug wire and boot for damage. Cracks or breaks in the wire or boot can cause a loss of spark.
- Procedure: Inspect the spark plug wire and boot for cracks, breaks, or other damage. Replace the wire and boot if necessary.
Takeaway: A strong and consistent spark is crucial for proper combustion.
4. Compression Testing
Engine compression is a measure of how well the engine seals the combustion chamber. Low compression can indicate worn piston rings, a damaged cylinder, or leaky valves. This is more common on older saws like the 288 XP.
- Compression Tester: You’ll need a compression tester to perform this test. These are readily available at auto parts stores.
- Procedure: Remove the spark plug. Screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole. Pull the starter rope several times until the gauge reaches its maximum reading. The compression reading should be within the manufacturer’s specifications. The 288 XP should have a compression reading of at least 120 PSI (8.3 bar). If the compression is below this level, the engine may need to be rebuilt.
- “Wet” Compression Test: If the compression is low, you can perform a “wet” compression test to help determine the cause. Add a small amount of oil (about a teaspoon) to the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Repeat the compression test. If the compression reading increases significantly, that indicates worn piston rings. If the compression reading doesn’t increase, that indicates a problem with the valves or cylinder.
Takeaway: Low compression is a serious issue that requires professional attention.
5. Exhaust System Examination
A clogged exhaust system can restrict the flow of exhaust gases, causing the engine to lose power.
- Spark Arrestor Screen: The spark arrestor screen prevents sparks from escaping the exhaust. It can become clogged with carbon buildup.
- Procedure: Remove the spark arrestor screen from the muffler. Clean it with a wire brush. If the screen is damaged or excessively clogged, replace it with a new one. I’ve seen spark arrestor screens so clogged that they completely choked the engine.
- Muffler: The muffler reduces the noise of the engine. It can also become clogged with carbon buildup.
- Procedure: Remove the muffler and inspect it for carbon buildup. Clean the muffler with a wire brush or by soaking it in carburetor cleaner. If the muffler is severely clogged, you may need to replace it.
Takeaway: A clear exhaust system allows the engine to breathe properly.
Specific 288 XP Quirks and Solutions
The 288 XP has a few quirks that are worth mentioning. These are based on my personal experiences and observations over the years.
- Impulse Line: The impulse line connects the carburetor to the crankcase. It provides the carburetor with the pressure pulses it needs to draw fuel from the fuel tank. The impulse line can become brittle and crack over time, causing fuel delivery problems. I’ve replaced more impulse lines on 288 XPs than I can count. A telltale sign is difficulty starting or inconsistent idling.
- AV Mounts: The anti-vibration (AV) mounts on the 288 XP can wear out over time, causing excessive vibration. This can make the saw uncomfortable to use and can also lead to fatigue. Replacing the AV mounts can significantly improve the saw’s comfort and handling.
- Oil Pump: The oil pump lubricates the chain and bar. A faulty oil pump can cause the chain to overheat and wear out prematurely. Check the oil pump output regularly to ensure that the chain is being properly lubricated. I’ve seen oil pumps fail due to debris clogging the inlet screen.
Preventative Maintenance: Keeping Your 288 XP Running Strong
The best way to avoid problems with your 288 XP is to perform regular preventative maintenance. Here’s a schedule I recommend:
- Daily:
- Check the fuel and oil levels.
- Inspect the chain for sharpness and tension.
- Clean the air filter.
- Wipe down the saw to remove sawdust and debris.
- Weekly:
- Sharpen the chain.
- Clean the spark plug.
- Inspect the fuel and oil lines for leaks.
- Grease the bar tip sprocket.
- Monthly:
- Replace the fuel filter.
- Clean the carburetor.
- Inspect the AV mounts.
- Check the oil pump output.
- Annually:
- Replace the spark plug.
- Inspect the cylinder and piston for wear.
- Have the saw professionally serviced.
Woodcutting Techniques to Reduce Strain on Your Saw
The way you cut wood can significantly impact the lifespan of your chainsaw. Using proper techniques can reduce strain on the engine and prevent unnecessary wear and tear.
- Sharp Chain: Always use a sharp chain. A dull chain forces you to apply more pressure, which puts extra strain on the engine. I sharpen my chains regularly, usually after every few tanks of fuel.
- Proper Chain Tension: Maintain proper chain tension. A loose chain can derail and cause damage to the saw. A tight chain can put excessive strain on the engine and bar.
- Avoid Pinching: Avoid pinching the bar in the cut. Pinching occurs when the wood closes in on the bar, restricting its movement. Use wedges to keep the cut open.
- Cutting Technique: Use a smooth, controlled cutting motion. Avoid forcing the saw through the wood. Let the chain do the work.
- Bar and Chain Oil: Use high-quality bar and chain oil. This will help to lubricate the chain and bar, reducing friction and wear.
Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Your Equipment
Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including:
- Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield.
- Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs.
- Head Protection: A helmet.
- Hand Protection: Chainsaw gloves.
- Leg Protection: Chainsaw chaps or pants.
- Foot Protection: Steel-toed boots.
Always be aware of your surroundings and avoid cutting in hazardous conditions. Never operate a chainsaw when you are tired or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
Case Study: Reviving a Neglected 288 XP
I once acquired a 288 XP that had been sitting in a shed for years. It was in rough shape. The fuel lines were cracked, the air filter was disintegrating, and the carburetor was gummed up with old fuel. The compression was also low, around 100 PSI.
I started by replacing the fuel lines, fuel filter, and air filter. I then disassembled the carburetor and cleaned it thoroughly. I also replaced the spark plug. After these repairs, the saw started, but it still ran poorly. It bogged down under load and smoked excessively.
I then performed a “wet” compression test. The compression increased to 120 PSI, indicating worn piston rings. I decided to rebuild the engine. I replaced the piston rings, cylinder, and gaskets. After the rebuild, the compression was back to normal, around 140 PSI.
The saw now runs like new. It has plenty of power and doesn’t bog down under load. This experience reinforced the importance of preventative maintenance and the potential for restoring even severely neglected chainsaws.
The Verdict: Is the Husqvarna 288 XP Still Worth It?
Despite its age and potential issues, the Husqvarna 288 XP remains a highly capable chainsaw. Its power and durability make it a valuable tool for both professional loggers and homeowners. However, it’s important to be aware of the potential problems and to perform regular maintenance to keep it running strong.
If you’re considering buying a used 288 XP, be sure to inspect it carefully. Check the compression, fuel lines, and air filter. If possible, start the saw and listen to how it runs. If the saw bogs down or smokes excessively, it may need repairs.
But if you’re willing to put in the time and effort to maintain it, the Husqvarna 288 XP can provide years of reliable service. It’s a true classic that deserves its place in chainsaw history.
Resources and Further Reading
- Husqvarna 288 XP Service Manual: This manual provides detailed information on repairing and maintaining the 288 XP.
- Chainsaw Forums: Online forums are a great resource for getting advice and troubleshooting tips from other chainsaw owners.
- Local Chainsaw Repair Shops: A qualified chainsaw repair shop can diagnose and repair any problems with your 288 XP.
Conclusion
The Husqvarna 288 XP is a legendary chainsaw that has earned its reputation for power and reliability. However, like any piece of machinery, it requires regular maintenance and care to keep it running strong. By following the troubleshooting steps and preventative maintenance tips outlined in this guide, you can keep your 288 XP running for years to come. Remember to always prioritize safety when operating a chainsaw. With proper care and attention, the Husqvarna 288 XP can be a valuable tool for any woodcutter.