Husqvarna 268XP Chainsaw Maintenance Tips (5 Pro Tricks)

Ah, the Husqvarna 268XP. Just the name brings back a flood of memories. I remember the first time I laid eyes on one – a seasoned logger I knew, Old Man Hemlock, he called it his “trusty warhorse.” He swore by it, said it could chew through anything you threw at it. And boy, did it ever! I was just a young buck then, eager to learn the ropes, and that 268XP was the machine I dreamt of owning. It represented power, reliability, and the satisfying roar of a job well done in the woods. While technology has moved on, the 268XP remains an icon. And like any classic, keeping it running smoothly requires understanding its quirks and giving it the right care. So, let’s dive into some pro tricks to keep your Husqvarna 268XP singing for years to come.

Husqvarna 268XP Chainsaw Maintenance Tips (5 Pro Tricks)

1. The Fuel Factor: Optimizing Your Mix

I’ve seen more 268XPs sidelined by bad fuel than any other issue. The 268XP, like many older two-stroke engines, is particular about its fuel. It’s not just about throwing any old gas and oil together. Getting the fuel mix right is the foundation of a healthy engine.

Understanding the Importance of Fuel Mix

A two-stroke engine relies on the fuel mixture to lubricate its internal components. Too little oil, and you risk catastrophic engine damage. Too much oil, and you’ll experience excessive carbon buildup, smoking, and poor performance.

The Recommended Ratio

Husqvarna typically recommends a 50:1 fuel-to-oil ratio for the 268XP. This means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part two-stroke oil. Always refer to your owner’s manual for the specific recommendation for your model.

Choosing the Right Oil

Don’t skimp on the oil! Use a high-quality, name-brand two-stroke oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines. Synthetic oils generally offer better lubrication and burn cleaner, reducing carbon buildup. I personally prefer a synthetic blend designed for high-performance chainsaws. I’ve found they offer a good balance of protection and price.

Mixing Fuel Properly

Use Fresh Fuel: Gasoline degrades over time, especially when mixed with oil. Only mix enough fuel for a few weeks of use. I always write the date on my fuel can so I know how old it is.
Use a Dedicated Fuel Container: A clean, properly labeled fuel container is essential.
Measure Accurately: Use a measuring container designed for two-stroke fuel mixing. Don’t eyeball it! Precision is key.
Mix Thoroughly: After adding the oil to the gasoline, shake the container vigorously for at least 30 seconds to ensure a homogenous mixture.

Case Study: The Perils of Old Fuel

I once had a buddy who insisted on using fuel that had been sitting in his shed for over a year. He couldn’t figure out why his 268XP kept stalling and losing power. After a teardown, we found the carburetor completely gummed up with residue from the old fuel. A costly lesson learned!

Pro Tip: Invest in a fuel stabilizer if you plan on storing your fuel for more than a month. This will help prevent the gasoline from degrading and keep your carburetor clean.

Takeaway: The right fuel mix is the lifeblood of your 268XP. Use fresh fuel, high-quality oil, and mix accurately. Your chainsaw will thank you.

2. Carburetor Calibration: Taming the Beast

The carburetor is the heart of your 268XP’s fuel delivery system. It regulates the air-fuel mixture that enters the engine, and proper calibration is crucial for optimal performance.

Understanding the Carburetor

The carburetor has three main adjustment screws:

L (Low Speed): Controls the fuel mixture at idle and low speeds.
H (High Speed): Controls the fuel mixture at high speeds and under load.
LA (Idle Speed): Controls the engine’s idle speed.

Identifying Carburetor Issues

Common symptoms of a poorly tuned carburetor include:

Difficulty Starting: Engine cranks but won’t start, or starts hard.
Rough Idle: Engine idles unevenly or stalls.
Hesitation: Engine hesitates or bogs down when accelerating.
Poor Performance: Engine lacks power, especially when cutting.
Excessive Smoke: Engine produces excessive smoke, indicating a rich fuel mixture.

The Tuning Process

Important Safety Note: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection and hearing protection, when tuning your chainsaw. Ensure the chain brake is engaged.

Warm Up the Engine: Start the engine and let it warm up for a few minutes.
Adjust the Idle Speed (LA): Turn the LA screw until the engine idles smoothly without the chain moving. If the chain is moving, turn the screw counterclockwise to lower the idle speed.
Adjust the Low-Speed Screw (L): Turn the L screw slowly clockwise until the engine starts to stumble or stall. Then, turn it counterclockwise until the engine runs smoothly and accelerates cleanly. The goal is to find the leanest setting where the engine still runs well.
Adjust the High-Speed Screw (H): This is the trickiest adjustment. With the engine at full throttle (and the chain brake engaged!), slowly turn the H screw clockwise until the engine starts to bog down or sound strained. Then, turn it counterclockwise until the engine runs smoothly and powerfully. You should hear a slight “four-stroking” sound at full throttle without a load. This indicates that the engine is getting enough fuel.

The “Four-Stroking” Sound

The “four-stroking” sound is a subtle but important indicator of a properly tuned high-speed circuit. It’s a slightly burbling or sputtering sound that occurs when the engine is running slightly rich at full throttle without a load. This ensures that the engine has enough fuel when it encounters resistance while cutting.

Case Study: The Over-Lean Engine

I once helped a friend who had leaned out his high-speed screw too much. He thought he was getting better fuel economy, but he ended up overheating and damaging his piston. It’s always better to err on the side of being slightly rich than too lean.

Pro Tip: Invest in a tachometer to accurately measure your engine’s RPM. This will help you fine-tune the carburetor to the manufacturer’s specifications. Husqvarna typically recommends a maximum RPM of around 12,500-13,000 for the 268XP.

Takeaway: A properly tuned carburetor is essential for optimal performance and engine longevity. Learn to listen to your engine and make small adjustments as needed. Don’t be afraid to experiment, but always err on the side of caution.

3. Bar and Chain Brilliance: Sharpening Skills and Maintenance

A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It puts unnecessary strain on the engine, increases the risk of kickback, and makes cutting more difficult. Maintaining a sharp chain and a properly lubricated bar is crucial for safe and efficient operation.

Chain Sharpening: The Art of the Edge

Understanding Chain Geometry: Each chain link has a cutter, a depth gauge (raker), and a tie strap. The cutter is responsible for removing wood, while the depth gauge controls the amount of wood the cutter can take.
Tools of the Trade: You’ll need a few essential tools for chain sharpening:
- Round File: The correct size round file for your chain’s pitch (typically 5/32″ or 3/16″ for a 268XP).
- File Guide: A file guide helps maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
- Depth Gauge Tool: A flat file and depth gauge tool for adjusting the depth gauges.
- Vise: A small vise to hold the bar securely while sharpening.
The Sharpening Process:
- Secure the Bar: Clamp the bar in a vise with the chain exposed.
- File the Cutters: Using the file guide, file each cutter at the correct angle and depth. Maintain a consistent stroke and pressure. Aim for a smooth, sharp edge.
- Adjust the Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges. If they are too high, file them down until they are level with the tool.
- Repeat: Sharpen each cutter and adjust the depth gauges as needed.

Bar Maintenance: The Foundation of the Cut

Cleaning the Bar: Regularly clean the bar groove with a scraper or screwdriver to remove sawdust and debris.
Flipping the Bar: Flip the bar periodically to ensure even wear.
Checking the Bar Rails: Inspect the bar rails for wear and damage. Use a bar rail dressing tool to smooth out any rough spots.
Lubrication: Ensure the bar oiler is functioning properly and that the bar is receiving adequate lubrication. A dry bar will quickly overheat and damage the chain.

Chain Tension: Finding the Sweet Spot

Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can overheat and damage the bar and chain.

Checking Chain Tension: With the engine off, lift the chain away from the bar in the middle. You should be able to pull the chain out about 1/8″ to 1/4″.
Adjusting Chain Tension: Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension. Tighten the screw to increase tension, and loosen it to decrease tension.

Case Study: The Dull Chain Disaster

I once witnessed a logger who refused to sharpen his chain. He kept forcing the saw through the wood, putting immense strain on the engine. Eventually, the chain snapped, sending pieces of metal flying through the air. Luckily, no one was hurt, but it was a close call.

Pro Tip: Invest in a chain grinder for faster and more precise sharpening. While a hand file is perfectly adequate, a grinder can save you a lot of time and effort, especially if you’re sharpening multiple chains.

Takeaway: A sharp chain and a well-maintained bar are essential for safe and efficient chainsaw operation. Learn to sharpen your chain properly, maintain your bar, and adjust the chain tension as needed.

4. Filter Finesse: Air and Fuel Filter Focus

Clean filters are essential for proper engine performance. A clogged air filter restricts airflow, leading to reduced power and increased fuel consumption. A clogged fuel filter restricts fuel flow, causing stalling and difficulty starting.

Air Filter Inspection and Cleaning

Frequency: Inspect the air filter regularly, especially in dusty conditions. I typically check mine after every tank of fuel.
Cleaning Methods:
- Compressed Air: Use compressed air to blow out dirt and debris from the inside out.
- Soap and Water: Wash the filter with warm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry completely before reinstalling.
- Replacement: Replace the air filter if it is damaged or excessively dirty.

Fuel Filter Inspection and Replacement

Location: The fuel filter is typically located inside the fuel tank, attached to the fuel line.
Inspection: Inspect the fuel filter for debris and discoloration.
Replacement: Replace the fuel filter if it is clogged or damaged. To replace it, drain the fuel tank, disconnect the fuel line, and remove the old filter. Install the new filter and reconnect the fuel line.

Case Study: The Suffocated Engine

I once diagnosed a 268XP that was running poorly and had very little power. After checking the usual suspects (fuel, carburetor), I discovered that the air filter was completely clogged with sawdust. Cleaning the air filter instantly restored the engine’s power.

Pro Tip: Keep a spare set of air and fuel filters on hand. This will allow you to quickly replace them in the field without having to stop and clean them.

Takeaway: Regularly inspect and clean or replace your air and fuel filters. This simple maintenance task will significantly improve your engine’s performance and longevity.

5. The Oiler Obsession: Lubrication is Key

Proper lubrication is critical for the life of your bar and chain. The bar oiler system delivers oil to the bar and chain, reducing friction and preventing wear.

Understanding the Oiler System

The 268XP’s oiler system is a simple but effective design. It consists of an oil tank, an oil pump, and an oil outlet on the bar. The oil pump is driven by the engine and delivers oil to the bar as the chain rotates.

Checking Oiler Functionality

Visual Inspection: Start the engine and hold the bar a few inches above a piece of wood or cardboard. You should see a steady stream of oil being ejected from the bar.
Oil Consumption: Monitor your oil consumption. You should be using approximately one tank of bar oil for every tank of fuel.
Bar Temperature: After cutting, check the temperature of the bar. If it is excessively hot, it may indicate a lubrication problem.

Troubleshooting Oiler Issues

Clogged Oiler Outlet: Clean the oiler outlet on the bar with a small wire or pick.
Clogged Oil Filter: Clean or replace the oil filter in the oil tank.
Faulty Oil Pump: If the oiler is still not working after cleaning the outlet and filter, the oil pump may be faulty. You may need to replace the pump.

Adjusting Oiler Output

Some 268XP models have an adjustable oiler. This allows you to increase or decrease the amount of oil being delivered to the bar. Adjust the oiler output based on the type of wood you are cutting and the ambient temperature. Harder woods and higher temperatures require more oil.

Case Study: The Seized Bar

I once saw a logger who ignored his oiler problem for too long. He kept cutting with a dry bar, eventually causing the bar and chain to seize up completely. The heat generated by the friction warped the bar and ruined the chain.

Pro Tip: Use a high-quality bar oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using waste oil or other unsuitable lubricants.

Takeaway: Regularly check your oiler system and ensure it is functioning properly. Proper lubrication is essential for preventing wear and tear on your bar and chain.

These five pro tricks are the foundation of keeping your Husqvarna 268XP running smoothly. Remember, preventative maintenance is always cheaper and easier than repairs. By following these tips, you can ensure that your trusty warhorse will continue to roar for many years to come. Now get out there and make some sawdust!

Husqvarna 268XP Chainsaw Maintenance Tips (5 Pro Tricks)