Husqvarna 240 Ignition Coil Testing (5 Key Ohm Specs Explained)

Do you remember the thrill of firing up your chainsaw on a crisp autumn morning, ready to tackle a pile of logs? The satisfying roar as the engine catches, the scent of sawdust in the air… But what happens when that roar turns into a sputter, a cough, and then… silence? Diagnosing chainsaw issues can be a frustrating task, and often, the ignition coil is the culprit. In this article, I’ll dive deep into testing the ignition coil on a Husqvarna 240 chainsaw, focusing on those crucial ohm specifications and, more importantly, how understanding them can save you money and time in the long run. We will also explore the costs associated with firewood preparation and wood processing.

Husqvarna 240 Ignition Coil Testing: 5 Key Ohm Specs Explained

The Husqvarna 240 is a popular chainsaw, known for its reliability and affordability. However, like any engine, its ignition system can fail. The ignition coil is a critical component, responsible for generating the high-voltage spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture in the cylinder. Knowing how to test it, and understanding the ohm readings, is essential for DIY repairs and preventing unnecessary trips to the repair shop.

Understanding the Ignition System

Before we delve into the specifics of testing the Husqvarna 240 ignition coil, let’s briefly review the basics of an ignition system. The system consists of:

• Flywheel: Contains magnets that rotate past the ignition coil.
• Ignition Coil: Generates the high-voltage spark.
• Spark Plug: Ignites the fuel-air mixture.
• Kill Switch: Grounds the ignition system, stopping the spark.

When the flywheel magnets pass the ignition coil, they induce a voltage in the coil’s primary winding. This voltage is then amplified in the secondary winding, creating the high-voltage spark that jumps across the spark plug gap, igniting the mixture.

Why Test the Ignition Coil?

A faulty ignition coil can cause a variety of problems, including:

• Hard Starting: The engine may be difficult or impossible to start.
• Weak Spark: The spark may be too weak to ignite the fuel-air mixture.
• Intermittent Stalling: The engine may run for a while and then stall.
• No Spark: The engine will not start at all.

Testing the ignition coil helps determine if it’s the source of the problem, saving you from replacing other parts unnecessarily.

Tools You’ll Need

To test the ignition coil, you’ll need the following tools:

• Multimeter: A digital multimeter is recommended for accurate readings.
• Screwdrivers: To remove the chainsaw’s cover and access the ignition coil.
• Spark Plug Wrench: To remove the spark plug for testing.
• Feeler Gauge: To check the air gap between the ignition coil and flywheel (more on this later).

Safety First!

Before you start, make sure the chainsaw is turned off and the spark plug wire is disconnected. This prevents accidental starting and potential electrical shock.

Step-by-Step Ignition Coil Testing

Here’s a step-by-step guide to testing the Husqvarna 240 ignition coil:

1. Access the Ignition Coil: Remove the chainsaw’s cover to expose the ignition coil. This usually involves unscrewing a few fasteners.

2. Visual Inspection: Check the ignition coil for any obvious damage, such as cracks, burns, or loose wires. A visual inspection alone isn’t enough, but it can sometimes reveal a clear problem.

3. Disconnect the Wires: Disconnect the spark plug wire and the kill switch wire from the ignition coil.

4. Set Up Your Multimeter: Set your multimeter to the ohms setting (Ω). You’ll likely need to select a range appropriate for measuring low resistance values (e.g., 200Ω or 2kΩ).

5. Test the Primary Winding:

   • Place one probe of the multimeter on the ignition coil’s terminal where the kill switch wire was connected.
   • Place the other probe on the metal core of the ignition coil (you may need to scrape away some paint for a good connection).
   • Record the ohm reading.

6. Test the Secondary Winding:

   • Place one probe of the multimeter on the spark plug wire terminal.
   • Place the other probe on the metal core of the ignition coil.
   • Record the ohm reading.

7. Test for Ground:

   • Place one probe of the multimeter on the spark plug wire terminal.
   • Place the other probe on the metal core of the ignition coil.
   • Record the ohm reading. This should be a high reading.

8. Check the Air Gap: The air gap is the distance between the ignition coil and the flywheel magnets. This gap is critical for proper ignition. Use a feeler gauge to check the gap. The recommended air gap for the Husqvarna 240 is typically between 0.010″ and 0.014″ (0.25mm to 0.35mm). Loosen the ignition coil mounting screws, insert the feeler gauge between the coil and flywheel, and then tighten the screws.

The 5 Key Ohm Specs Explained

Now, let’s get to the heart of the matter: the ohm specifications. These readings tell you whether the ignition coil’s windings are intact and functioning correctly. While specific values can vary slightly depending on the manufacturer and the multimeter used, here are general guidelines:

1. Primary Winding Resistance: This reading should typically be very low, often less than 1 ohm, and usually between 0.5 to 2 ohms. A reading of zero ohms indicates a short circuit, while a reading of infinity indicates an open circuit.

2. Secondary Winding Resistance: This reading will be much higher than the primary winding resistance, usually in the kilo-ohm (kΩ) range. A typical range for a Husqvarna 240 ignition coil is between 2kΩ and 6kΩ. Again, a reading of zero or infinity indicates a problem.

3. Ground Test: When testing from either the primary or secondary side to the metal core, you should get a very high resistance reading. A low resistance here indicates that the coil is shorting to ground, which is a major problem.

4. Air Gap: The air gap is not measured in ohms, but it’s crucial for proper ignition. As mentioned earlier, the recommended air gap for the Husqvarna 240 is typically between 0.010″ and 0.014″ (0.25mm to 0.35mm).

5. Continuity Test: Set your multimeter to continuity. Test the kill switch wire terminal to the core of the coil. There should be no continuity unless the kill switch wire is grounded.

Important Note: Always consult your Husqvarna 240 service manual for the exact ohm specifications for your specific model. These values can vary slightly depending on the year of manufacture and coil design.

Troubleshooting Based on Ohm Readings

Here’s a table summarizing common problems and their corresponding ohm readings:

Example: Let’s say you measure the primary winding resistance and get a reading of 0 ohms. This indicates a short circuit in the primary winding, meaning the coil is likely bad and needs to be replaced.

The Cost of Replacing an Ignition Coil

Now, let’s talk about the cost. A new ignition coil for a Husqvarna 240 typically ranges from $15 to $40, depending on the brand and where you buy it. Aftermarket coils are generally cheaper than OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) coils. While aftermarket coils can be a cost-effective option, keep in mind that their quality and lifespan may not be as good as OEM coils.

If you take your chainsaw to a repair shop, you’ll also have to pay for labor. Labor costs vary depending on the shop and your location, but you can expect to pay anywhere from $50 to $100 for the repair. By testing the ignition coil yourself, you can avoid these labor costs and potentially save a significant amount of money.

My Personal Experience: I once had a Husqvarna 240 that wouldn’t start. I took it to a local repair shop, and they told me it needed a new carburetor and an ignition coil, with a total repair cost of over $200. I decided to take it home and do some troubleshooting myself. After testing the ignition coil and finding it was bad, I ordered a new one online for $20 and installed it myself in about 30 minutes. The chainsaw fired right up, and I saved myself over $180!

Beyond the Ignition Coil: The Bigger Picture of Firewood Costs

Now that we’ve covered the ignition coil, let’s zoom out and look at the broader context of firewood preparation costs. After all, a functioning chainsaw is just one piece of the puzzle.

The Allure of Firewood: There’s something deeply satisfying about heating your home with wood. The crackling fire, the cozy warmth, the connection to nature… But before you can enjoy those benefits, you need to put in the work (or pay someone else to do it).

Factors Affecting Firewood Costs: The cost of firewood varies widely depending on several factors:

• Location: Firewood prices are generally higher in urban areas and regions with limited wood resources.
• Wood Species: Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory are denser and burn longer than softwoods like pine and fir. Hardwoods typically cost more per cord.
• Seasoning: Seasoned firewood (wood that has been dried for at least six months) is more expensive than green (unseasoned) firewood. Seasoned wood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.
• Delivery: Delivery charges can add significantly to the cost of firewood.
• Quantity: Buying in larger quantities (e.g., a full cord instead of a face cord) usually results in a lower price per unit.

Breaking Down the Costs: Let’s break down the various costs associated with firewood preparation:

1. Timber Purchase/Harvesting Costs: This is the cost of acquiring the wood itself. If you’re buying logs, the price will depend on the species, quality, and quantity. Timber prices fluctuate based on market conditions, but here are some general guidelines:

   • Standing Timber: Prices for standing timber (trees that you harvest yourself) can range from $100 to $500 per thousand board feet (MBF), depending on the species and location. You’ll also need to factor in the cost of logging permits, if required.
   • Delivered Logs: Delivered logs typically cost more, ranging from $300 to $800 per MBF.

   If you’re harvesting your own wood, you’ll need to factor in the cost of your time, as well as the wear and tear on your equipment.

2. Tool Costs: This includes the cost of your chainsaw, wood splitter, axes, wedges, and other tools. Chainsaw prices range from a couple of hundred dollars for a basic model to over a thousand dollars for a professional-grade saw. Wood splitters can range from a few hundred dollars for a manual splitter to several thousand dollars for a hydraulic splitter.

   • Chainsaw Maintenance: Don’t forget about the ongoing costs of chainsaw maintenance, including:
     • Chain Sharpening: A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. You can sharpen your own chain with a file or use a chainsaw chain sharpener. A good sharpener can cost between $50 and $200. Alternatively, you can pay a professional to sharpen your chain for around $10 to $20 per chain.
     • Chain Replacement: Chains eventually wear out and need to be replaced. A new chainsaw chain can cost between $20 and $50.
     • Bar Oil: Bar oil lubricates the chain and bar, preventing wear and tear. A gallon of bar oil typically costs around $10 to $20.
     • Fuel: Chainsaws typically use a mixture of gasoline and oil. The cost of fuel will depend on the current gas prices and the fuel efficiency of your chainsaw.
     • Air Filter: Air filters need to be cleaned or replaced regularly to ensure proper engine performance. A new air filter typically costs around $5 to $10.
     • Spark Plug: Spark plugs should be replaced periodically to maintain optimal ignition. A new spark plug typically costs around $5 to $10.

3. Labor Costs: If you’re hiring someone to cut, split, and stack your firewood, labor costs can be a significant expense. Labor rates vary depending on your location and the experience of the worker, but you can expect to pay anywhere from $20 to $50 per hour.

4. Equipment Rental Fees: If you don’t own a wood splitter, you may need to rent one. Rental fees typically range from $50 to $100 per day for a hydraulic splitter.

5. Permits: In some areas, you may need a permit to harvest firewood from public lands. Permit fees vary depending on the location and the amount of wood you plan to harvest.

6. Transportation: The cost of transporting the firewood from the source to your home can also be significant, especially if you’re buying logs from a distant location.

7. Storage: You’ll need a place to store your firewood, preferably a dry, well-ventilated area. If you don’t have an existing woodshed, you may need to build one, which can add to the overall cost.

Cost Optimization Strategies: Here are some tips for reducing your firewood preparation costs:

• Harvest Your Own Wood: If you have access to a woodlot or can obtain a permit to harvest firewood from public lands, you can save a significant amount of money.
• Buy in Bulk: Buying firewood in larger quantities usually results in a lower price per unit.
• Season Your Own Wood: Buying green firewood and seasoning it yourself can save you money, but it requires patience and a suitable storage location.
• Maintain Your Equipment: Regular maintenance of your chainsaw and wood splitter will prolong their lifespan and prevent costly repairs.
• Shop Around: Get quotes from multiple firewood suppliers to ensure you’re getting the best price.
• Consider Alternative Fuels: In some cases, alternative fuels like wood pellets or propane may be more cost-effective than firewood.
• Look for Free Wood: Sometimes, you can find free wood from tree trimming services or construction sites. Just make sure you have permission to take the wood.

Industry Benchmarks and Statistical Data:

• Average Price per Cord of Firewood: According to recent data from the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA), the average price per cord of firewood in the United States ranges from $150 to $400, depending on the location and wood species.
• Timber Prices: Timber prices fluctuate based on market conditions, but the U.S. Forest Service publishes regular reports on timber sales and prices.
• Equipment Rental Fees: Equipment rental fees vary depending on the location and the rental company. You can find rental rates for wood splitters and other equipment on websites like United Rentals and Home Depot.
• Fuelwood Market Rates: Fuelwood market rates are influenced by factors such as supply and demand, transportation costs, and local regulations. You can find information on fuelwood market rates from local firewood suppliers and forestry agencies.

Case Study: Budgeting for a Cord of Firewood

Let’s say you want to prepare one cord of firewood. Here’s a sample budget:

| Item | Cost | Notes

Calculations and Formulas:

• Board Feet: 1 board foot is equal to 144 cubic inches (12″ x 12″ x 1″). To calculate the board feet in a log, you can use the following formula:

  Board Feet = (Diameter in inches - 4) * (Diameter in inches - 4) * Length in feet / 16

• Cords: A cord is a unit of volume for firewood, defined as a stack of wood measuring 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long, for a total volume of 128 cubic feet. To estimate the number of cords in a pile of logs, you can use the following formula:

  Cords = Volume in cubic feet / 128

• Drying Time: The drying time for firewood depends on several factors, including the wood species, the size of the pieces, and the climate. As a general rule, hardwoods take longer to season than softwoods. A moisture meter can help you determine when your firewood is properly seasoned. The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%.

Challenges Faced by Small-Scale Loggers and Firewood Suppliers:

Small-scale loggers and firewood suppliers face a number of challenges, including:

• Fluctuating Timber Prices: Timber prices can fluctuate significantly, making it difficult to plan and budget for the future.
• Competition from Larger Operations: Larger logging companies and firewood suppliers often have economies of scale that allow them to offer lower prices.
• Rising Fuel Costs: Rising fuel costs can increase the cost of harvesting and transporting firewood.
• Environmental Regulations: Environmental regulations can restrict logging activities and increase the cost of compliance.
• Weather Conditions: Weather conditions can affect the availability of timber and the ability to harvest firewood.

Personalized Storytelling:

I remember one particularly harsh winter when the price of firewood skyrocketed. I had a wood stove but was running low on fuel. I decided to try harvesting my own wood from a nearby forest. After obtaining a permit and borrowing a friend’s chainsaw, I spent several weekends cutting and splitting wood. It was hard work, but I learned a lot about forestry and the value of self-sufficiency. I also saved a significant amount of money on my heating bill.

Actionable Takeaways and Next Steps:

• Test Your Ignition Coil: If your Husqvarna 240 chainsaw is not starting or running properly, test the ignition coil using the steps outlined in this article.
• Consult Your Service Manual: Always consult your Husqvarna 240 service manual for the exact ohm specifications for your specific model.
• Shop Around for Replacement Parts: If you need to replace the ignition coil, shop around for the best price and consider both OEM and aftermarket options.
• Plan Your Firewood Needs: Estimate your firewood needs for the upcoming winter and start planning your harvesting or purchasing strategy.
• Consider Cost Optimization Strategies: Implement cost optimization strategies to reduce your firewood preparation expenses.
• Maintain Your Equipment: Keep your chainsaw and wood splitter in good working order to prolong their lifespan and prevent costly repairs.

Conclusion:

Understanding the ignition system of your Husqvarna 240 chainsaw, and specifically how to test the ignition coil using ohm specifications, is a valuable skill that can save you time and money. Beyond that, understanding the various costs associated with firewood preparation and implementing cost optimization strategies can help you enjoy the warmth and comfort of a wood-burning fire without breaking the bank. So, grab your multimeter, sharpen your chainsaw chain, and get ready to tackle your next wood processing project! After all, there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of providing your own heat, knowing you’ve done it efficiently and effectively.

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