Husqvarna 20 Chainsaw Chain & Bar Size Guide (Expert Fit Tips)

Did you know that the wrong chainsaw chain and bar combination can turn your Husqvarna 20 from a wood-cutting beast into a glorified paperweight? Choosing the right chain and bar for your Husqvarna 20 chainsaw is crucial for performance, safety, and the longevity of your equipment. I’ve seen firsthand the frustration and potential danger of mismatched components, and I’m here to guide you through the process like a seasoned logger. This guide will provide you with expert tips to ensure you get the perfect fit every time.

Understanding Your Husqvarna 20 Chainsaw

The Husqvarna 20 is a versatile chainsaw, often favored for its balance of power and maneuverability. However, it’s not a one-size-fits-all tool. The specific tasks you intend to perform will heavily influence the chain and bar selection.

Key Features of the Husqvarna 20

The Husqvarna 20 is a lightweight chainsaw, but it still packs enough power for various tasks. Its features include:

  • Engine Displacement: Typically around 40cc, providing a good power-to-weight ratio.
  • Weight: Usually around 10-12 pounds without the bar and chain, making it easy to handle for extended periods.
  • Applications: Suitable for felling small trees, limbing, pruning, and cutting firewood.

Why Chain and Bar Selection Matters

The chain and bar are the heart of your chainsaw. An incorrect choice can lead to:

  • Reduced Cutting Efficiency: A dull or improperly sized chain will make cutting slow and laborious.
  • Increased Wear and Tear: Mismatched components can strain the engine and other parts, shortening the chainsaw’s lifespan.
  • Safety Hazards: A chain that’s too loose or a bar that’s too long can increase the risk of kickback and other accidents.

I remember a time when I was helping a friend clear some fallen trees after a storm. He had put a chain on his saw that was too aggressive for the bar he was using. The result was a lot of vibration, a very uneven cut, and a near miss when the saw kicked back unexpectedly. It was a stark reminder of how important it is to get the right fit.

Decoding Chainsaw Chain Specifications

Understanding the terminology and specifications of chainsaw chains is fundamental. It’s like learning a new language, but once you grasp the basics, you’ll be able to make informed decisions.

Essential Chain Terminology

  • Pitch: The distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches are 3/8″ and .325″.
  • Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. Common gauges are .050″ and .058″.
  • Drive Link Count: The number of drive links on the chain, which determines the chain’s overall length.
  • Cutter Type: Refers to the shape and aggressiveness of the cutting teeth. Common types include chisel, semi-chisel, and low-profile.

Determining the Right Pitch and Gauge for Your Husqvarna 20

The Husqvarna 20 typically uses either a .325″ pitch or a 3/8″ low-profile (also known as 3/8″ LP) chain. The gauge is usually .050″. To confirm the correct specifications for your specific model, consult your owner’s manual or check the markings on the existing bar.

  • .325″ Pitch: This pitch offers a good balance of cutting speed and smoothness. It’s suitable for general-purpose cutting.
  • 3/8″ Low-Profile Pitch: This pitch is designed for smaller, lighter chainsaws. It reduces kickback and is ideal for limbing and pruning.
  • .050″ Gauge: This is a common gauge for smaller chainsaws. It provides a good balance of strength and flexibility.

Personal Tip: I always keep a small notebook with the specifications of all my chainsaws and their corresponding chains and bars. It saves me time and prevents costly mistakes.

Understanding Drive Link Count

The drive link count is crucial for ensuring that the chain fits properly on the bar. To determine the correct drive link count:

  1. Check Your Owner’s Manual: The manual should specify the correct drive link count for your bar length and chain pitch.
  2. Count the Drive Links on Your Old Chain: If you have an old chain that fits properly, simply count the number of drive links.
  3. Use a Chain Fit Guide: Many chainsaw manufacturers provide online chain fit guides that can help you determine the correct drive link count based on your chainsaw model and bar length.

Example: A 16-inch bar on a Husqvarna 20 with a .325″ pitch and .050″ gauge typically requires a chain with 66 drive links.

Choosing the Right Cutter Type

The cutter type affects the chain’s cutting speed and smoothness. Here’s a breakdown of common cutter types:

  • Chisel Cutters: These cutters have a square corner and are very aggressive. They cut quickly but require more frequent sharpening and are more prone to kickback.
  • Semi-Chisel Cutters: These cutters have a rounded corner and are less aggressive than chisel cutters. They stay sharp longer and are less prone to kickback, making them a good choice for general-purpose cutting.
  • Low-Profile Cutters: These cutters are designed for smaller chainsaws and are very safe and easy to use. They cut slowly but are ideal for limbing and pruning.

My Experience: I prefer semi-chisel cutters for most of my firewood cutting. They offer a good balance of cutting speed, durability, and safety.

Selecting the Right Chainsaw Bar

The chainsaw bar guides the chain and supports the cutting process. Choosing the right bar length and type is essential for optimal performance and safety.

Understanding Bar Length

Bar length refers to the usable cutting length of the bar, not the overall length. It’s important to choose a bar length that’s appropriate for the size of the trees you’ll be cutting.

  • Too Short: A bar that’s too short will limit your ability to cut larger trees.
  • Too Long: A bar that’s too long can make the chainsaw unwieldy and increase the risk of kickback.

For the Husqvarna 20, common bar lengths range from 14 to 18 inches. I usually recommend a 16-inch bar for most general-purpose cutting tasks.

Bar Types: Solid vs. Laminated

Chainsaw bars come in two main types: solid and laminated.

  • Solid Bars: These bars are made from a single piece of steel and are very durable. They are typically used on larger, more powerful chainsaws.
  • Laminated Bars: These bars are made from multiple layers of steel that are bonded together. They are lighter and less expensive than solid bars and are suitable for smaller chainsaws like the Husqvarna 20.

The Husqvarna 20 typically uses a laminated bar. These bars are sufficient for the chainsaw’s power and intended use.

Bar Mount Type

The bar mount type refers to the way the bar attaches to the chainsaw. It’s crucial to choose a bar with the correct mount type for your Husqvarna 20. The most common mount type for the Husqvarna 20 is the small Husqvarna mount.

How to Identify the Correct Mount Type:

  1. Check Your Owner’s Manual: The manual should specify the correct mount type for your chainsaw.
  2. Compare to Your Old Bar: If you have an old bar that fits properly, compare its mount to the new bar.
  3. Consult a Chainsaw Specialist: If you’re unsure, consult a chainsaw specialist at your local hardware store or chainsaw dealer.

Caution: Using a bar with the wrong mount type can damage your chainsaw and create a safety hazard.

Bar Maintenance

Proper bar maintenance is essential for extending the life of your chainsaw and ensuring optimal performance.

  • Cleaning: Regularly clean the bar groove to remove sawdust and debris. Use a bar groove cleaner or a small screwdriver.
  • Filing: File the bar rails to remove burrs and ensure that the chain slides smoothly. Use a bar rail dresser or a flat file.
  • Lubrication: Ensure that the bar is properly lubricated with chainsaw bar oil. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed.
  • Straightening: If the bar becomes bent or damaged, it may be possible to straighten it using a bar straightening tool. However, if the damage is severe, it’s best to replace the bar.

Personal Anecdote: I once neglected to clean the bar groove on my chainsaw for an extended period. The sawdust buildup caused the chain to bind, which led to excessive wear on the bar and chain. I learned my lesson and now make it a point to clean the bar groove after every use.

Matching Chain and Bar for Optimal Performance

Choosing the right chain and bar is only half the battle. You also need to ensure that they are properly matched to each other and to your chainsaw.

Ensuring Compatibility

  • Pitch and Gauge: The chain pitch and gauge must match the bar’s specifications. Using a chain with the wrong pitch or gauge can damage the bar and chain and create a safety hazard.
  • Drive Link Count: The chain must have the correct drive link count for the bar length. A chain with too few drive links will be too short to fit on the bar, while a chain with too many drive links will be too long and will sag.
  • Bar Mount: The bar mount must match the chainsaw’s mount type. Using a bar with the wrong mount type can damage the chainsaw and create a safety hazard.

Optimizing Cutting Performance

  • Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for optimal cutting performance. Sharpen the chain regularly using a chainsaw file or a chain grinder.
  • Tension: Proper chain tension is crucial for safety and performance. The chain should be snug on the bar but should still be able to be pulled around the bar by hand.
  • Lubrication: Ensure that the bar and chain are properly lubricated with chainsaw bar oil. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed.

Expert Tip: I always sharpen my chainsaw chain before each use. A sharp chain cuts faster, smoother, and more safely.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Using the Wrong Chain Pitch or Gauge: This is a common mistake that can damage the bar and chain and create a safety hazard. Always check the bar’s specifications before purchasing a new chain.
  • Over-Tightening the Chain: Over-tightening the chain can cause it to bind and wear prematurely. The chain should be snug on the bar but should still be able to be pulled around the bar by hand.
  • Neglecting Bar Maintenance: Neglecting bar maintenance can shorten the life of the bar and reduce cutting performance. Regularly clean the bar groove, file the bar rails, and lubricate the bar.
  • Using a Dull Chain: Using a dull chain can make cutting slow and laborious and can also increase the risk of kickback. Sharpen the chain regularly.

Expert Fit Tips and Tricks

Now, let’s dive into some expert tips and tricks that I’ve learned over the years. These tips will help you ensure a perfect fit and optimize your chainsaw’s performance.

Measuring Your Existing Chain and Bar

Before you buy a new chain and bar, it’s a good idea to measure your existing ones. This will help you confirm the correct specifications.

  • Chain Pitch: Use a pitch gauge to measure the distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two.
  • Chain Gauge: Use a gauge to measure the thickness of the drive links.
  • Bar Length: Measure the usable cutting length of the bar.
  • Drive Link Count: Count the number of drive links on the chain.

Using Online Chain and Bar Finders

Many chainsaw manufacturers offer online chain and bar finders that can help you determine the correct specifications for your chainsaw. These tools typically ask you to enter your chainsaw model and bar length, and then they provide a list of compatible chains and bars.

My Favorite Online Resources:

  1. Loosen the Bar Nuts: Loosen the bar nuts that hold the bar in place.
  2. Adjust the Tensioning Screw: Use a screwdriver to adjust the tensioning screw. Turn the screw clockwise to tighten the chain and counterclockwise to loosen it.
  3. Check the Tension: The chain should be snug on the bar but should still be able to be pulled around the bar by hand.
  4. Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once the chain is properly tensioned, tighten the bar nuts.

Important: Check chain tension frequently, especially when the chain is new. A new chain will stretch as it breaks in, so you may need to adjust the tension several times.

Identifying and Addressing Common Fit Issues

Even with careful measurements and online tools, you may still encounter fit issues. Here are some common problems and how to address them:

  • Chain Too Loose: If the chain is too loose, it will sag and may come off the bar. Tighten the chain by adjusting the tensioning screw.
  • Chain Too Tight: If the chain is too tight, it will bind and may cause the chainsaw to overheat. Loosen the chain by adjusting the tensioning screw.
  • Chain Not Staying on the Bar: If the chain keeps coming off the bar, it may be the wrong pitch or gauge. Check the bar’s specifications and make sure you’re using the correct chain. It could also be a worn sprocket.
  • Bar Not Fitting on the Chainsaw: If the bar doesn’t fit on the chainsaw, it may be the wrong mount type. Check the chainsaw’s specifications and make sure you’re using the correct bar.

The Role of Sprockets

The sprocket is a critical component that drives the chain around the bar. A worn or damaged sprocket can cause the chain to slip, bind, or come off the bar.

  • Types of Sprockets: Spur sprockets and rim sprockets are the two main types. Rim sprockets are generally easier to replace.
  • When to Replace: Replace the sprocket when it shows signs of wear, such as rounded or damaged teeth. I typically replace mine every two to three chain replacements.
  • Matching Sprocket to Chain: Always use a sprocket that is compatible with the chain pitch.

Lubrication: The Lifeblood of Your Chainsaw

Proper lubrication is essential for extending the life of your chainsaw, bar, and chain.

  • Types of Bar Oil: Use a high-quality chainsaw bar oil that is specifically designed for lubricating chainsaw bars and chains. I prefer using a vegetable-based bar oil, as it’s more environmentally friendly.
  • Oil Flow Adjustment: Adjust the oil flow to match the cutting conditions. In general, you’ll need more oil for cutting hardwoods than for cutting softwoods.
  • Checking Oil Output: Regularly check the oil output to ensure that the bar and chain are properly lubricated. You should see a light spray of oil coming off the chain when the chainsaw is running.

My Recommendation: I always use a full synthetic bar and chain oil. It might be a bit more expensive, but it provides superior lubrication and protection.

Seasonal Considerations

The time of year can affect your chainsaw’s performance and your chain and bar selection.

  • Winter Cutting: In cold weather, use a bar oil that is designed for low temperatures. This will prevent the oil from becoming too thick and causing the chain to bind.
  • Summer Cutting: In hot weather, use a bar oil that is designed for high temperatures. This will prevent the oil from becoming too thin and causing the chain to wear prematurely.
  • Wood Type: The type of wood you’re cutting can also affect your chain and bar selection. Hardwoods require a more aggressive chain and a more durable bar than softwoods.

Personal Story: I once tried to cut some frozen oak logs with a standard bar oil in the middle of winter. The oil quickly became too thick, and the chain started to bind. I switched to a low-temperature bar oil, and the problem was immediately resolved.

Chainsaw Safety: A Paramount Concern

No discussion about chainsaws is complete without emphasizing safety. Chainsaws are powerful tools that can cause serious injury if not used properly.

Essential Safety Gear

  • Helmet: Always wear a helmet to protect your head from falling debris.
  • Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying chips.
  • Hearing Protection: Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the chainsaw’s noise.
  • Gloves: Wear heavy-duty gloves to protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Chaps: Wear chainsaw chaps to protect your legs from accidental cuts.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Wear steel-toed boots to protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.

Safe Cutting Techniques

  • Proper Stance: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and your weight evenly distributed.
  • Grip: Grip the chainsaw firmly with both hands.
  • Kickback Zone: Be aware of the kickback zone, which is the upper portion of the bar tip. Avoid cutting with this area.
  • Cutting Height: Avoid cutting above shoulder height.
  • Clearance: Ensure that there is a clear path for the tree to fall.
  • Bystanders: Keep bystanders at a safe distance.

Kickback Prevention

Kickback is a sudden, uncontrolled movement of the chainsaw that can cause serious injury. Here are some tips for preventing kickback:

  • Avoid the Kickback Zone: Never cut with the upper portion of the bar tip.
  • Maintain a Sharp Chain: A dull chain is more prone to kickback.
  • Proper Chain Tension: Ensure that the chain is properly tensioned.
  • Firm Grip: Grip the chainsaw firmly with both hands.
  • Anti-Kickback Features: Use a chainsaw with anti-kickback features, such as a chain brake and a reduced-kickback bar.

My Personal Rule: I never start a chainsaw without wearing all of my safety gear. It’s not worth the risk.

First Aid Basics

Knowing basic first aid can be crucial in the event of an accident.

  • Stop the Bleeding: Apply direct pressure to the wound.
  • Clean the Wound: Clean the wound with soap and water.
  • Seek Medical Attention: Seek medical attention as soon as possible, even for minor cuts.

Advanced Chain and Bar Considerations

For those looking to take their chainsaw skills to the next level, here are some advanced considerations.

Specialty Chains and Bars

  • Carving Chains: These chains are designed for intricate carving work.
  • Harvesting Chains: These chains are designed for high-volume timber harvesting.
  • Alaskan Mill Bars: These bars are designed for use with an Alaskan mill, which is a tool for milling lumber in the field.

Understanding Raker Depth

The raker depth, also known as the depth gauge, controls the amount of wood that the chain cuts with each pass.

  • Adjusting Raker Depth: Adjusting the raker depth can improve cutting performance, especially when cutting different types of wood.
  • Filing Rakers: Use a raker gauge and a flat file to adjust the raker depth.

Chain Grinders vs. Hand Filing

  • Chain Grinders: Chain grinders are power tools that can quickly and accurately sharpen chainsaw chains.
  • Hand Filing: Hand filing is a more traditional method of sharpening chainsaw chains. It requires more skill and patience, but it can produce excellent results.

My Preference: I use a chain grinder for sharpening my chains because it’s faster and more accurate. However, I still carry a chainsaw file with me in the field for touch-ups.

Diagnosing Cutting Problems

If your chainsaw isn’t cutting properly, here are some common problems and their solutions:

  • Chain Binding: The chain may be too tight, the bar may be damaged, or the sprocket may be worn.
  • Chain Slipping: The chain may be too loose, the sprocket may be worn, or the bar may not be properly lubricated.
  • Slow Cutting: The chain may be dull, the raker depth may be too high, or the engine may not be running properly.
  • Uneven Cutting: The chain may be unevenly sharpened, the bar may be bent, or the chain may not be properly tensioned.

Case Studies and Real-World Examples

Let’s look at some real-world examples of how proper chain and bar selection can make a difference.

Case Study 1: Firewood Cutting Efficiency

A homeowner was struggling to cut firewood with his Husqvarna 20. He was using a dull chain and an improperly sized bar. After switching to a sharp chain with the correct pitch and gauge, and a bar that was appropriate for the size of the logs he was cutting, he was able to cut firewood much more quickly and easily.

Case Study 2: Tree Service Professional

A tree service professional was experiencing excessive wear on his chainsaw bar. He was using a low-quality bar that wasn’t designed for the heavy-duty use that he was subjecting it to. After switching to a high-quality bar made from durable materials, he was able to extend the life of his bar significantly.

My Own Experience: Storm Cleanup

After a major storm, I had to clear a large number of fallen trees from my property. I used my Husqvarna 20 with a 16-inch bar and a sharp semi-chisel chain. The chainsaw performed flawlessly, and I was able to clear the trees quickly and safely.

The Future of Chainsaw Technology

Chainsaw technology is constantly evolving. Here are some trends to watch for:

Battery-Powered Chainsaws

Battery-powered chainsaws are becoming increasingly popular. They are quieter, cleaner, and easier to maintain than gas-powered chainsaws.

Smart Chainsaws

Some chainsaws are now equipped with sensors and electronics that can monitor performance, provide maintenance alerts, and even detect kickback.

Automated Chainsaw Systems

Automated chainsaw systems are being developed for use in forestry and logging operations. These systems can improve efficiency and safety.

Conclusion: Mastering the Art of Chainsaw Chain and Bar Selection

Choosing the right chainsaw chain and bar for your Husqvarna 20 is a critical skill for anyone who uses a chainsaw regularly. By understanding the terminology, specifications, and fit tips outlined in this guide, you can ensure optimal performance, safety, and longevity for your chainsaw. Remember to always prioritize safety, maintain your equipment properly, and adapt your chain and bar selection to the specific tasks you’re performing. Now, go forth and conquer those wood-cutting challenges with confidence!

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